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Source of Calcium without Nitrogen.
- Thread starter Roadblock
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kingape
Active member
No!
It will adversely affect the absorption of Nitrogen from the nutrient water.
Look for Calcium Metasolate or Calcium EDTA.
Check out @BillFarthing 's thread on Nutrients, I think there's a recipe there for diy
It will adversely affect the absorption of Nitrogen from the nutrient water.
Look for Calcium Metasolate or Calcium EDTA.
Check out @BillFarthing 's thread on Nutrients, I think there's a recipe there for diy
Thanks for that, its very hard to get Metasolate or Calcium EDTA in Aus, actually its hard to get anything here outside of high-priced regular nutrients from hydro shops, I will keep looking.
Came across this product but it doesn't tell you the source of calcium, even the SDS doesn't tell you what it is.
Valagro’s Calbit C is a Calcium-based nutritional supplement complexed with LSA (Ammonium Lignin Sulphonate), specific for the enhancement of Calcium availability via root uptake.
Came across this product but it doesn't tell you the source of calcium, even the SDS doesn't tell you what it is.
Valagro’s Calbit C is a Calcium-based nutritional supplement complexed with LSA (Ammonium Lignin Sulphonate), specific for the enhancement of Calcium availability via root uptake.
Advantages:
Calbit C treatments can lead to increased fruit firmness, longer shelf-life and a reduction defects caused by shortfalls of Calcium. Calbit C provides Calcium without accompanying nutrients which can result in unwanted growth outcomes that are associated with other Calcium sources.Application:
Calbit C is the ideal solution for applying Calcium via fertigation thanks to the presence of the LSA complex, which protects the molecule from insolubility reactions (most successfully where pH is between 3 and 6.5).Rates:
The actual rates, number of applications and their timing will vary for different crops based on their nutrient requirements. Before application, seek advice from your Campbell’s distributor.
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This just confuses me more, this paper is against Calcium EDTA in hydoponics
When talking about Ca EDTA we should first understand that this is not simply a calcium ion with an EDTA molecule wrapped around it. In reality, the product we purchase as Ca EDTA, that contains 9.7% Ca by weight, is actually represented chemically as C10H12O8CaN2Na2·2H2O. The Ca EDTA product is actually four parts, a few waters of crystallization, the Ca+2 cation, the chelating agent anion that wraps around it (EDTA-4) and two sodium cations, Na+, that are used to counter the two excess negative charges coming from the Ca EDTA (which we should more accurately call (CaEDTA)-2). When adding Ca EDTA we are actually adding four things, a little water, Ca, EDTA and Na. Most importantly Ca EDTA is in reality 12.15% sodium, meaning you’re adding more Na than you’re adding Ca when you use it.
https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2020/05/calcium-edta-and-its-problems-in-hydroponics.html
And here they recommend Gypsum in hydroponics.
https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2020/06/using-calcium-sulfate-in-hydroponics.html
At 20C (68F), calcium sulfate dihydrate – the form most commonly available – has a solubility of around 2.4 g/L. In practice this means that you can have up to around 550 ppm of Ca in solution from calcium sulfate dihydrate before you observe any precipitation happening. This is way more than the normal 150-250 ppm of Ca that are used in final hydroponic nutrient solutions that are fed to plants. You could supply the entire plant requirement for calcium using calcium sulfate without ever observing any precipitate in solution.
When talking about Ca EDTA we should first understand that this is not simply a calcium ion with an EDTA molecule wrapped around it. In reality, the product we purchase as Ca EDTA, that contains 9.7% Ca by weight, is actually represented chemically as C10H12O8CaN2Na2·2H2O. The Ca EDTA product is actually four parts, a few waters of crystallization, the Ca+2 cation, the chelating agent anion that wraps around it (EDTA-4) and two sodium cations, Na+, that are used to counter the two excess negative charges coming from the Ca EDTA (which we should more accurately call (CaEDTA)-2). When adding Ca EDTA we are actually adding four things, a little water, Ca, EDTA and Na. Most importantly Ca EDTA is in reality 12.15% sodium, meaning you’re adding more Na than you’re adding Ca when you use it.
https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2020/05/calcium-edta-and-its-problems-in-hydroponics.html
And here they recommend Gypsum in hydroponics.
https://scienceinhydroponics.com/2020/06/using-calcium-sulfate-in-hydroponics.html
At 20C (68F), calcium sulfate dihydrate – the form most commonly available – has a solubility of around 2.4 g/L. In practice this means that you can have up to around 550 ppm of Ca in solution from calcium sulfate dihydrate before you observe any precipitation happening. This is way more than the normal 150-250 ppm of Ca that are used in final hydroponic nutrient solutions that are fed to plants. You could supply the entire plant requirement for calcium using calcium sulfate without ever observing any precipitate in solution.
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troutman
Seed Whore
Calcium Chloride is like road salt. Don't use it. Limestone would be safer.
Calcium forms mentioned in the previous post are nice as well.
Three Berries
Active member
Calcium Chloride CaCl2 can be used alone at strengths up to 2000 ppm directly on soil. 1/5 that as a foliar. It works immediately. When mixed with water it disassociates into Ca+ and Cl-
But should not be mixed with any sulfate product as it reacts and the calcium drops out as Calcium Sulfate, gypsum.
If you want to make your own CalMag then CaCl2 and MgCl2 at the usual 5:1 is the ticket. Beware what it's mixed with though so it stays available. It can be applied directly to soil.
But should not be mixed with any sulfate product as it reacts and the calcium drops out as Calcium Sulfate, gypsum.
If you want to make your own CalMag then CaCl2 and MgCl2 at the usual 5:1 is the ticket. Beware what it's mixed with though so it stays available. It can be applied directly to soil.
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Calcium without nitrogen??
Easy peasy, if you have access to eggs. Crush egg shells, toast in oven or on skillet till lightly browned, mix 1 to 11 with 3% distilled vinegar.
Stir daily till bubbles quit forming and pH is almost 7.
Mix 1 to 1000 with water for foliar spray or mix with irrigation water and water in.
Zero nitrogen, EDTA, or chelates.
Easy peasy, if you have access to eggs. Crush egg shells, toast in oven or on skillet till lightly browned, mix 1 to 11 with 3% distilled vinegar.
Stir daily till bubbles quit forming and pH is almost 7.
Mix 1 to 1000 with water for foliar spray or mix with irrigation water and water in.
Zero nitrogen, EDTA, or chelates.
Petrochemical
Active member
Mussel shells too .....aus nature and shorelines are your friendsCalcium without nitrogen??
Easy peasy, if you have access to eggs. Crush egg shells, toast in oven or on skillet till lightly browned, mix 1 to 11 with 3% distilled vinegar.
Stir daily till bubbles quit forming and pH is almost 7.
Mix 1 to 1000 with water for foliar spray or mix with irrigation water and water in.
Zero nitrogen, EDTA, or chelates.
Three Berries
Active member
I was using Calcium Acetate before the Calcium Chloride.
Why not Gypsum?
Three Berries
Active member
I was using limestone before gypsum or Calcium Acetate or Calcium Chloride.
Gypsum doesn't change the pH like limestone does afaik.
Three Berries
Active member
Gypsum requires microbial soil action to break down for the plant to use I read.
21% of commercial growers surveyed said they used calcium chloride in 2021. Up from 11% in 2020
What is Canna Mono Calcium? I had presumed it was chloride from it's greasy feel, but it's tank mixed. I's 8.8% calcium in liquid form, so I doubt it's edta if edta is 9.7% as powder. Calcium Acetate or Metalosate I guess from the choices left
Mono Calcium is just Calcium without Nitrogen.
I have most of the Mono range. It looks good on the shelf
Edit: Acetate is used as a phosphate binder medically. I think I read here about how calcium acetate becomes free calcium in the tank. Phosphates and Calcium are why we have A and B essentially. It sounds no different to calcium chloride if I'm reading it correctly
What is Canna Mono Calcium? I had presumed it was chloride from it's greasy feel, but it's tank mixed. I's 8.8% calcium in liquid form, so I doubt it's edta if edta is 9.7% as powder. Calcium Acetate or Metalosate I guess from the choices left
Mono Calcium is just Calcium without Nitrogen.
I have most of the Mono range. It looks good on the shelf
Edit: Acetate is used as a phosphate binder medically. I think I read here about how calcium acetate becomes free calcium in the tank. Phosphates and Calcium are why we have A and B essentially. It sounds no different to calcium chloride if I'm reading it correctly
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That's how i use it but i'm sure there would be a way to get the Ca in solution if that's what you required.. been a while since i did chemistry...
Coconaut81
Member
Not true. Go to a home brew store and get solution grade gypsum. It's soluble at 2.5g per liter. that right there is WAY too much for a plant. 1 gram per gallon is 60ppm calcium, and I believe about the same sulfer. Ur Just not able to make stock soultions with it. Powder str8 to the Rez.
Randy Lahey
Active member
I'm so serious when I say this...
If your Cannabis Plant isn't over 6ft tall and 4ft wide and is growing in soil...... The reality is.....
You don't even need to feed your Cannabis Plant at all.
Cannabis is not a fucking Beta fish that you gotta give some fish flakes to everyday to "Feed".
Look people, ever since 2014 after Colorado made it recreational and errrrbody and they mama could grow their "bag seeds" out......the quality of weed has gone downhill......almost everything, everywhere OVERFERTILIZED and growing from highly recessive crosses of recessive crosses. aka "SNICKLEFRITZ"
Dispensary Warehouses religiously overdosing the plants with CAL-Mag , and Nitrogen...... yuck....... It all tastes like shit and looks like shit too. Why do you all think the small amounts of stuff grown "Correctly" and considered the "Dankest" ends up in jars for 60-75 an 8th in a dispensary and everything else that is available is nowhere near as good?
#1. Genetics is EVERYTHING!!!
You are not gonna get the dankest weed EVER out of a bobby brown bag seed because, "YOU GREW IT"..........
#2 Calcium is the FUCKING DEVIL TO CANNABIS!!!
It is an "Immobile" nutrient that blocks/clogs cells and if given to much will fry your plant out from the inside out.
#3 If your plants are not huuuuuge outdoor "Master Grow" size plants..... You prolly will not ever need to "FEED" your plants. Look at your Soil bag and how it already says, "Treated to feed plants for up to 6 Months" . Average Life cycle of a Cannabis Plant in a person's personal grow is 6-7 months...... From seed to Harvest...... If you aren't growing them that big?? Then there is no reason to "Feed".....
Example of OVERFERTILIZED Cannabis :
Example of Cannabis that is NOT OVERFERTILIZED:
STOP OVERFERTILIZING YOUR CANNABIS PLANTS PEOPLE!!! BRING THE DANK BACK!!!!!
"ONLY YOU CAN PREVENT SNICKLEFRITZ" - Randy Lahey
If your Cannabis Plant isn't over 6ft tall and 4ft wide and is growing in soil...... The reality is.....
You don't even need to feed your Cannabis Plant at all.
Cannabis is not a fucking Beta fish that you gotta give some fish flakes to everyday to "Feed".
Look people, ever since 2014 after Colorado made it recreational and errrrbody and they mama could grow their "bag seeds" out......the quality of weed has gone downhill......almost everything, everywhere OVERFERTILIZED and growing from highly recessive crosses of recessive crosses. aka "SNICKLEFRITZ"
Dispensary Warehouses religiously overdosing the plants with CAL-Mag , and Nitrogen...... yuck....... It all tastes like shit and looks like shit too. Why do you all think the small amounts of stuff grown "Correctly" and considered the "Dankest" ends up in jars for 60-75 an 8th in a dispensary and everything else that is available is nowhere near as good?
#1. Genetics is EVERYTHING!!!
You are not gonna get the dankest weed EVER out of a bobby brown bag seed because, "YOU GREW IT"..........
#2 Calcium is the FUCKING DEVIL TO CANNABIS!!!
It is an "Immobile" nutrient that blocks/clogs cells and if given to much will fry your plant out from the inside out.
#3 If your plants are not huuuuuge outdoor "Master Grow" size plants..... You prolly will not ever need to "FEED" your plants. Look at your Soil bag and how it already says, "Treated to feed plants for up to 6 Months" . Average Life cycle of a Cannabis Plant in a person's personal grow is 6-7 months...... From seed to Harvest...... If you aren't growing them that big?? Then there is no reason to "Feed".....
Example of OVERFERTILIZED Cannabis :
Example of Cannabis that is NOT OVERFERTILIZED:
STOP OVERFERTILIZING YOUR CANNABIS PLANTS PEOPLE!!! BRING THE DANK BACK!!!!!
"ONLY YOU CAN PREVENT SNICKLEFRITZ" - Randy Lahey
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I have used 6 month composts. Thing is, they don't say what plant. If kept in a suitable sized pot for daily watering, it lasts maybe 10 days. A few repots will get you to bloom, but then you want 2 months. That pot would have to be massive. It's generally accepted that some feeding is preferable to a monster sized container. Allowing some crop steering with the nutrients provided.
It seems to be P levels ruining most crops. Giving a samey chemical taste and smell, to an entire cities worth of shops.
Cannabis loves calcium. Soil is stacked with it. From sands that might come in around 500ppm to clay's at 2500ppm. Using soil has been good for LED growers as the calcium is abundant.
I was sniffing my Mono calcium last night. I couldn't get high, but if it's not chloride then my nose needs recalibrating. I know in recent years we have gone from saying calcium chloride has no use in farming, to it becoming quite popular. I have to wonder about the timeline of the facts going around about it.
It seems to be P levels ruining most crops. Giving a samey chemical taste and smell, to an entire cities worth of shops.
Cannabis loves calcium. Soil is stacked with it. From sands that might come in around 500ppm to clay's at 2500ppm. Using soil has been good for LED growers as the calcium is abundant.
I was sniffing my Mono calcium last night. I couldn't get high, but if it's not chloride then my nose needs recalibrating. I know in recent years we have gone from saying calcium chloride has no use in farming, to it becoming quite popular. I have to wonder about the timeline of the facts going around about it.
Thanks for the imputs guy always learning.
The original Calcium question was based on me using Coco frequent irrigation in Airpots.
If your nutrient is A+B and B is 100% Calcium Nitrate, would I even need extra Calcium, also in the B part is quite a bit of Epsom Salts in the formula, Im just starting this run and trying to prepare if Im going to need added Cal-Mag or I can achieve the same by adding a little more CalNitrate and Epsom salts, into the tank of 50/50 AB nutrient mix.
The original Calcium question was based on me using Coco frequent irrigation in Airpots.
If your nutrient is A+B and B is 100% Calcium Nitrate, would I even need extra Calcium, also in the B part is quite a bit of Epsom Salts in the formula, Im just starting this run and trying to prepare if Im going to need added Cal-Mag or I can achieve the same by adding a little more CalNitrate and Epsom salts, into the tank of 50/50 AB nutrient mix.
