Someone help my plant recover

[nohurrygrower]

Years ago I had zero issues with my media when I used Peet soil and Perlite for media. A basic veg fertilizer 8-4-4, bioflores and some molasses then a little bit of PK13/14 in the middle of flower. If you want good results from one nutrient line it’s highly recommended to use Canna for veg and the BioCanna for fruit. Better results with the same diesel clones a friend of mine was growing in hydro. The mentor that suggested biocanna, P/K 1314 and molasses. He had some amazing potency and flavor with his BK/Deep Chunk so I went with it based on their success.

Thanks I think I am going to dispose the plant of issues and focus on my other plants. So the Canna is expensive but I could get that. Can you give me a run down of the products to use for veg and flower

 

[CannaZen]

Yea what wheel. I was looking at Jacks. The salt wheel? Okay, I messed up but there is something to it. You should see the way some of my previous stuff harvested smokes. Very clean, amazing resin ring on a joint. I will admit I am nowhere near close to skilled but why not exeriement. For example Coconut Water rich with auxins and cytokins. An organic PGR. Instead of whole milk plain chobani yogurt or pumpkin seeds. Yes maybe I should just pick some line, follow it and call it a day. But I cannot resist and here I am finding myself about to lose a plant to it. I need to take it easy. Imagine being a plant and being fed yogurt. The media is very slimy and weird smelling. Poor thing. I will live and learn but I think I am on to something and there are still aspects of creating the wheel that are lacking. Such as some Coconut Water or some healthy additives. We live in a world where vegatable oil, canola oil, peanut oil, is in everything. And the body gets put into an inflammatory state. Although plants are not humans, my mindset is that I want to only put healthy things into my medium and not just whatever a company created. I know some of the stuff sold is good but there has to be a way. I am a long ways away and ranting away but I hope you can at least catch part of my gist. I am not giving up but need to correct myself big time and invest in the right scientific tools like ppm reader, ph meter etc and do more research. I want to get white ash in my joints. That is a big goal of mine. I heard potassium helps late and less nitrogen. I think I really need to go with a line. Or pick the base of one line and the additives of another. I dont know I am really lost. I am not dumb either but this overthinking is driving me insane.

maybe good hydro works and that i think organic soil doesn't completely flush the plant, so.. i mean a lot of growers do soil and chem fertilizers the veg material tastes salty maybe sulfates in the veg material.

i just didnt know that chem can be clean.

 

[nohurrygrower]

maybe good hydro works and that i think organic soil doesn't completely flush the plant, so.. i mean a lot of growers do soil and chem fertilizers the veg material tastes salty maybe sulfates in the veg material.

i just didnt know that chem can ...

 

[CannaZen]

Can you put me on a good feeding regime? My medium is about 80% coco and 10% pumice 10% peat. I have a bunch of seedlings. Put me on CannaZen. What should I do to not kill these poor plants. I want them to prosper and thrive and like I said burn white ash thats all

forget my comment, i just hadnt known good chem could be completely flushed from the plant material (could it?) say it were used sparsely and that the plant/pheno used it up from the soil and veg in time and didnt have sulfates/salt anymore in its vegetatious material. also certain nitrates can induce mutation that becomes cancerous? but dont answer that i dont know and its offtopic.

 

[xtsho]

Can you put me on a good feeding regime? My medium is about 80% coco and 10% pumice 10% peat. I have a bunch of seedlings. Put me on CannaZen. What should I do to not kill these poor plants. I want them to prosper and thrive and like I said burn white ash thats all

White ash doesn't mean anything. Black ash is due to incomplete combustion of the organic matter.

 

[I Care]

Thanks I think I am going to dispose the plant of issues and focus on my other plants. So the Canna is expensive but I could get that. Can you give me a run down of the products to use for veg and flower

Any readily available fertilizer for vegetative growth. Doesn’t matter which one. I chose bonnies 8-4-4 in a prior grow, unknown clone only diesel cross. When I flipped for 24/0 to 12/12 I switched the nutrients to BioCanna BioFlores and molasses, then an applied canna PK13/14 (not necessary) in the middle of the flower stage.

So find yourself a veg nutrient of any kind and the use BioFlores for flower and you will have good puffage.

 

[Perdido]

I think I am going to dispose the plant of issues and focus on my other plants

Thats what I would have suggested.
Your plants look like they might have mites.
At least the tips of your plants look just like an infestion of Polyphagotarsonemus latus. You need a microscope or good lens to detect them. If yes, get rid of the hardest affected ones, and you might save the ones that have no or hardly any symptoms by using predatory mites (Amblyseius swirskii via Amazon).
I did it a few weeks ago, now I have a few healthy survivors with both mites on them.

Malawi with P. latus

 

[xtsho]

Plants were fed with yogurt and dark chocolate.

Some ideas just don't work out.

 

[I Care]

Do those symbiotic mites burn to white ash?

 

[xtsho]

Do those symbiotic mites burn to white ash?

I can tell that you understand but for those that are swayed by the cannabis broscience:

If you dry the mites enough before you burn them then they'll be white ash. If the moisture content is too high then the initial combustion will not be complete and they'll leave black ash behind due to the carbon left over from incomplete combustion.

It's the same principle with charcoal. Incomplete combustion leaves behind carbon that will then be possible to reignite and after burning that you will be left with white ash.

If nutrients were left over in the plant the weed would burn up completely without issue. They make bombs with nitrates and phosphorous so it make no sense that black ash is these leftover nutrients. They burn readily so how is it possible that they are left behind leaving black ash? The black ash is carbon.

 

[I Care]

Derailing, Did you see the house in VA?

 

[nohurrygrower]

I can tell that you understand but for those that are swayed by the cannabis broscience:

If you dry the mites enough before you burn them then they'll be white ash. If the moisture content is too high then the initial combustion will not be complete and they'll leave black ash behind due to the carbon left over from incomplete combustion.

It's the same principle with charcoal. Incomplete combustion leaves behind carbon that will then be possible to reignite and after burning that you will be left with white ash.

If nutrients were left over in the plant the weed would burn up completely without issue. They make bombs with nitrates and phosphorous so it make no sense that black ash is these leftover nutrients. They burn readily so how is it possible that they are left behind leaving black ash? The black ash is carbon.

Makes sense. You are def right that extra minerals do not cause black ash but prob white ash. The question is which minerals burn with to no carbon and white ash, which elements?