Someone help my plant recover

[nohurrygrower]

...

 

[xtsho]

You're going to cause more harm than good trying to get runoff pH to match what you think it should be by pouring extremely low pH solution through your soil. Runoff pH is a poor method for testing the pH of the soil at the root zone. A slurry test is a better way to test soil pH. You're issue is not likely due to a pH issue to begin with. Chasing soil pH based off of runoff is not a good practice. I know you see it on cannabis forums but you see lots of misinformation.

Feeding at 4.0 pH is not a good idea.

Constantly wet soil deprives the roots of oxygen, can cause yellowing, can lead to root rot, and a variety of other problems.

Good luck.

 

[nohurrygrower]

You're going to cause more harm than good trying to get runoff pH to match what you think it should be by pouring extremely low pH solution through your soil. Runoff pH is a poor method for testing the pH of the soil at the root zone. A slurry test is a better way to test soil pH. You're issue is not likely due to a pH issue to begin with. Chasing soil pH based off of runoff is not a good practice. I know you see it on cannabis forums but you see lots of misinformation.

Feeding at 4.0 pH is not a good idea.

Constantly wet soil deprives the roots of oxygen, can cause yellowing, can lead to root rot, and a variety of other problems.

..

 

[nohurrygrower]

You're going to cause more harm than good trying to get runoff pH to match what you think it should be by pouring extremely low pH solution through your soil. Runoff pH is a poor method for testing the pH of the soil at the root zone. A slurry test is a better way to test soil pH. You're issue is not likely due to a pH issue to begin with. Chasing soil pH based off of runoff is not a good practice. I know you see it on cannabis forums but you see lots of misinformation.

Feeding at 4.0 pH is not a good idea.

Constantly wet soil deprives the roots of oxygen, can cause yellowing, can lead to root rot, and a variety of other problems.

Good luck.

What is a slurry test? So I just took some of my top soil and mixed it with a tad of spring water in a blender and am ph'ing that. It reads 6.4ph.

 

[nohurrygrower]

You're going to cause more harm than good trying to get runoff pH to match what you think it should be by pouring extremely low pH solution through your soil. Runoff pH is a poor method for testing the pH of the soil at the root zone. A slurry test is a better way to test soil pH. You're issue is not likely due to a pH issue to begin with. Chasing soil pH based off of runoff is not a good practice. I know you see it on cannabis forums but you see lots of misinformation.

Feeding at 4.0 pH is not a good idea.

Constantly wet soil deprives the roots of oxygen, can cause yellowing, can lead to root rot, and a variety of other problems.

Good luck.

...

 

[Crazy Chester]

Sometimes you have no choice but to get your medium too wet before it dries - every minute that the PH is too high is a minute your plant can't up-take needed nutrients. I'm in the correct it as fast as possible camp - the plant was stressed for a long time with a too high PH - the stress of taking less time to correct the PH will get the plant to conditions in which she can recover faster. I don't see the point adding days to the recovery by slowly decreasing the PH - not when the plant has suffered weeks of the PH being way too high.

You are almost there - another 0.5 in PH drop on your slurry is perfect. Then, the final stress before recovery - a feeding PH'd to 5.8. That will put her in the position of recovering over the next couple weeks, during which time you should not water at all until the medium starts drying out. Your stretch in flower will be less due to the stress - yield and quality will be lower too - but, at least it would allow you to salvage as much as possible.

 

[nohurrygrower]

Sometimes you have no choice but to get your medium too wet before it dries - every minute that the PH is too high is a minute your plant can't up-take needed nutrients. I'm in the correct it as fast as possible camp - the plant was stressed for a long time with a too high PH - the stress of taking less time to correct the PH will get the plant to conditions in which she can recover faster. I don't see the point adding days to the recovery by slowly decreasing the PH - not when the plant has suffered weeks of the PH being way too high.

You are almost there - another 0.5 in PH drop on your slurry is perfect. Then, the final stress before recovery - a feeding PH'd to 5.8. That will put her in the position of recovering over the next couple weeks, during which time you should not water at all until the medium starts drying out. Your stretch in flower will be less due to the stress - yield and quality will be lower too - but, at least it would allow you to salvage as much as possible.

...

 

[Crazy Chester]

You're welcome! Here's what I do using tap water that is high 8s in PH: I feed twice a week at 5 ml micro and 10 ml bloom of GH nutrients per gallon of water. That seems to be a good veg mix (and usually in flower too) with my high PH tap water - the PH is always in the high fives and the plants grow well with it. Some plants may need a bit more nutrients - especially in flower - for them, I add the extra nutrients by using the same mix with a drop or two of soap in a spray bottle to foliar feed them. Since you use organic nutrients - figure out what mix of your nutrients bring your tap water to PH 5.8 - that will probably be a happy growing blend for your plants that you can up with periodic foliar feedings if you need to.

Using this method, I don't even check my PH when I feed anymore and, with twice a week feedings, I don't have to water with plain water anymore - they can be fed this way indefinitely, as long as the plants keep actively growing. Only when some other factor has stopped plant growth do you need to worry about too much nutrients being in the medium.

 

[Crazy Chester]

After my own little slurry test is reading 6.3ph I would not be suprised if this is just root rot kr overwatering. Thing is super heavy going to let it dry. Was worried about salts building up without watering or fertigation but it needs to dry out? Any products you reccomned to help with root rot?

If you can do it - transplant ASAP to a bigger pot. Pack the old root ball in with new dry medium - capillary action will draw excess moisture from your old root ball into the surrounding dry medium. That will help reduce the amount of time your plant will need to recover from the wetness of the PH adjustment.

 

[xtsho]

What is a slurry test? So I just took some of my top soil and mixed it with a tad of spring water in a blender and am ph'ing that. It reads 6.4ph.

You need to use distilled water which should have a neutral pH when you do a slurry test. Spring water can range significantly from a neutral 7.0 pH and give you incorrect data.

I don't think you ever had a pH problem to begin with. What soil are you using? Any quality soil is going to be fine with no pH adjustment needed unless you really mess it up by putting too much stuff into it. You don't provide enough data for anyone to give a diagnosis but like others have already stated your issue might be due to overwatering.

I would stop chasing pH based off of the methodology you're using to determine the pH. I'd let it dry out and then get back to a normal watering routine letting the soil dry out between waterings.

Sometimes the best remedy is patience. Waterlogged plants will show signs of deficiencies as the roots are unable to function properly and uptake the nutrients the plant needs. You can chase the pH if you want but the way you're measuring is not accurate.

If you keep the soil waterlogged you will end up with anerobic soil which is much worse than soil that is high pH.

Good luck.

 

[Koondense]

My guess - roots and plant is not getting enough gas exchange, so she's basically "drowning".
Some possible solutions are to transplant in an airy medium + increase the air extraction + increase N, Ca and Mg.
She should recover.
Oh, and a "haircut" would also be beneficial.

Cheers

 

[CannaZen]

You don't lower pH just by watering it again looks fine in the photo but maybe a bit rootbound take your time don't put too much water at a time. Just wait for it to balance. (This isn't advice you don't need any more. What kind of soil/medium is it?

 

[nohurrygrower]

My guess - roots and plant is not getting enough gas exchange, so she's basically "drowning".
Some possible solutions are to transplant in an airy medium + increase the air extraction + increase N, Ca and Mg.
She should recover.
Oh, and a "haircut" would also be beneficial.

Cheers

...

 

[nohurrygrower]

You don't lower pH just by watering it again looks fine in the photo but maybe a bit rootbound take your time don't put too much water at a time. Just wait for it to balance. (This isn't advice you don't need any more. What kind of soil/medium is it?

 

[nohurrygrower]

You need to use distilled water which should have a neutral pH when you do a slurry test. Spring water can range significantly from a neutral 7.0 pH and give you incorrect data.

I don't think you ever had a pH problem to begin with. What soil are you using? Any quality soil is going to be fine with no pH adjustment needed unless you really mess it up by putting too much stuff into it. You don't provide enough data for anyone to give a diagnosis but like others have already stated your issue might be due to overwatering.

I would stop chasing pH based off of the methodology you're using to determine the pH. I'd let it dry out and then get back to a normal watering routine letting the soil dry out between waterings.

Sometimes the best remedy is patience. Waterlogged plants will show signs of deficiencies as the roots are unable to function properly and uptake the nutrients the plant needs. You can chase the pH if you want but the way you're measuring is not accurate.

If you keep the soil waterlogged you will end up with anerobic soil which is much worse than soil that is high pH.

Good luck.

 

[nohurrygrower]

You need to use distilled water which should have a neutral pH when you do a slurry test. Spring water can range significantly from a neutral 7.0 pH and give you incorrect data.

I don't think you ever had a pH problem to begin with. What soil are you using? Any quality soil is going to be fine with no pH adjustment needed unless you really mess it up by putting too much stuff into it. You don't provide enough data for anyone to give a diagnosis but like others have already stated your issue might be due to overwatering.

I would stop chasing pH based off of the methodology you're using to determine the pH. I'd let it dry out and then get back to a normal watering routine letting the soil dry out between waterings.

Sometimes the best remedy is patience. Waterlogged plants will show signs of deficiencies as the roots are unable to function properly and uptake the nutrients the plant needs. You can chase the pH if you want but the way you're measuring is not accurate.

If you keep the soil waterlogged you will end up with anerobic soil which is much worse than soil that is high pH.

Good luck.

 

[nohurrygrower]

Now these are from seed and Puro Loco seeds that cost $100 from Archive and Coconut Cloud from Sin City that cost $100. So I can not afford to mess these up. Flavors that I selected. I am in the process of transplantting all the Regular seeds (Sin City) to 1 gal and Female seeds (Archive) to 2 gal. The media is 80% CANNA coco, 10% pumice, 10% priemeir canadian peat moss.

 

[xtsho]

I could of easily messed up putting in the wrong stuff running my own organic additives such as yogurt, pumpkin seeds , dark chocolate etc. I was not checking pH at that time. Whatever this plant is making me want to throw it out and start over. Its about 5 days into flower for a supposed 70 day flower cycle. Real bummer. The lemon terps are coming through strong or were before this ph lockout and root rot happened. I learned a big lesson from this. I want to make sure it never happens again. Also get a solid nutrient line or mix and match so I can get the 16 minerals and micronutrients required. I was eyeing Mills, Canna, NFTG, Botanicare, AN, House and Garden, NPK Industries, Gaia Green, Down to Earth brands. I want to come up with my own recipe

Coco, peat, yogurt, pumpkin seeds, dark chocolate, etc... ?

Yes just go with any decent basic nutrient.

If I were you I'd use either peat or coco but not both together. Then just get something like Jacks or GH MaxiBloom and call it a day. The wheel has already been invented. No need to create a new recipe.

Good luck.

 

[nohurrygrower]

...

 

[I Care]

Years ago I had zero issues with my media when I used Peet soil and Perlite for media. A basic veg fertilizer 8-4-4, bioflores and some molasses then a little bit of PK13/14 in the middle of flower. If you want good results from one nutrient line it’s highly recommended to use Canna for veg and the BioCanna for fruit. Better results with the same diesel clones a friend of mine was growing in hydro. The mentor that suggested biocanna, P/K 1314 and molasses. He had some amazing potency and flavor with his BK/Deep Chunk so I went with it based on their success.