Smart Pots

[Clackamas Coot]

Thanks. What is the consensus on the best material to use if one makes their own? I want to make a model with a 10" base (diameter) and 14-16" height (I have a sowing machine).

secondtry

I don't know (actually I don't remember) the specific product name(s) at HomeDepot, Loews, et al. but just about any of the nursery barrier cloths should serve you well.

I'd probably look for the source of the material used in one product vs. another one.

I'll call a nursery supplier in a couple of hours and see if I can't get you a 'brand name' - not that it will necessarily be the best product but it will give you a place to start.

I would go for flexibility and I'd probably opt for the thinner products since you're going to be sewing them together.

I'll get back in a couple of hours. They're really busy in the mornings as you can imagine this time of the year.

HTH

CC

 

[chef]

After you make your 10w x 16h pots, what size will you be comparing them too?

I'll put $10 on some 16w x 10h's

 

[whatissixbynine]

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[Clackamas Coot]

Here is the only study I can find about SP verses AirPots verses Accelerator pots verses RootMaker pots verses traditional pots, etc. In this study the researchers found little reason to use air-pots but as CC wrote, cannabis is not the same as a small tree sapling...however, SP did yield more dry matter than almost all other tested pots.

secondtry

There was one area of testing that I feel should have been done is on the temperatures in the root zone of one product vs. another product.

Standard lipped-nursery pots can hit temperatures of over 110F sitting out in the fields where they'll stay for 2-3 years depending on the type and variety being grown.

It's 'my opinion' (and little else) that if for no other reason than regulating the temperatures, the air-pruning pot technologies provide a grower with maximum control.

BTW - Dr. James Owens who headed up this research project up in Aurora, Oregon is pretty much 'a legend' in this part of the Willamette Valley. His 'how to' classes always fill up months early. A very interesting gentleman..................

CC

 

[secondtry]

After you make your 10w x 16h pots, what size will you be comparing them too?

I'll put $10 on some 16w x 10h's

Ha, no thanks, I don't bet.

The reason I want tall containers is to increase the air porosity and total porosity of the media, thus (relatively) lowering the Perched Water Table (PWT). Considering we are using SmartPots I want to keep the containers rather small (dimension) so the roots quickly start being air-pruned. I also want to use 10" in diameter because I use 1 plant per sq foot, and my plastic containers are 12" in diameter which gives me room to put grow rocks between the SP and the plastic container. This is also good because i will add a bottom layer of grow rocks to act as air pruning at the bottom (i.e. tradition air pruning). If just placing SP at bottom in conant with plastic container there would be less air pruning it seems to me.

 

[secondtry]

secondtry

There was one area of testing that I feel should have been done is on the temperatures in the root zone of one product vs. another product.

Standard lipped-nursery pots can hit temperatures of over 110F sitting out in the fields where they'll stay for 2-3 years depending on the type and variety being grown.

It's 'my opinion' (and little else) that if for no other reason than regulating the temperatures, the air-pruning pot technologies provide a grower with maximum control.

BTW - Dr. James Owens who headed up this research project up in Aurora, Oregon is pretty much 'a legend' in this part of the Willamette Valley. His 'how to' classes always fill up months early. A very interesting gentleman..................

CC

That's a really good point, especially considering ideal media temp for roots and soil food web is about 20-25'C (68-77'F), although I shoot for 20-23'C (68-73'F).

All the best

 

[chef]

Ha, no thanks, I don't bet.

The reason I want tall containers is to increase the air porosity and total porosity of the media, thus (relatively) lowering the Perched Water Table (PWT). Considering we are using SmartPots I want to keep the containers rather small (dimension) so the roots quickly start being air-pruned. I also want to use 10" in diameter because I use 1 plant per sq foot, and my plastic containers are 12" in diameter which gives me room to put grow rocks between the SP and the plastic container. This is also good because i will add a bottom layer of grow rocks to act as air pruning at the bottom (i.e. tradition air pruning). If just placing SP at bottom in conant with plastic container there would be less air pruning it seems to me.

Ah OK, I'd totally agree with your reasoning then, maxing out the sq footage sog style. Keep'em touching & it will actually be close to a raised bed, they'll root into each other, pot to pot & form one giant root mat You'll have to cut'em apart lol

For bigger plants (because of mmj plant limits) I found a bigger footprint to really be superior. I hope to be soggin myself again someday but until then...



Edit: nevermind lol forgot about your plastic outers helluva wakenbake. It's still a cool rootmat concept, so I'll leave it.

 

[dirrtyd]

Okay I was wondering could I drill holes around a #7 pot and put a 5 gallon smartpot inside. The #7 will be for moving purposes do you all think this will work for me? I am open to all opions I have until 4/20 to transplant into this setup thanks for all suggestions as usual.Dirrtyd

 

[onegreenday]

sure. u might not need the holes if there's air gap around the smartpot.

 

[dirrtyd]

Theres a gap now but once filled with soil it will fit snug in the #7 pot. Thanks for the advice.

 

[onegreenday]

ok i get it. drill the holes so air can come through to reach the smartpot.
it should work.

 

[Absolut]

So I recently transplanted into some SmartPots and I had a quick question.

After I watered the soil 'shrunk' and now the sides of the soil isn't touching the walls of the SmartPot. Is it ok to have this gap between the soil and inside wall of the pot? Or should I fill up the gaps?

 

[onegreenday]

yah that soil/bag interface can change & not be straight up & DOWN.
Try to pack some soil down the sides with a thin wood strip like a stir fry flat spoon.

 

[Dave Coulier]

I dont think its been mentioned in this thread yet, but heres a much cheaper biodegradable alternative to smart pots that from my limited testing are very effective.

http://www.rootpouch.com/english/

1 gallon pots are $.18 (15-20 month fabric)
3 gallon pots are $.34 (15-20 month fabric)

I used 4 of the 3 gallon pots when transplanting right at the start of flowering. After harvest I pulled the rootballs out and didn't see any roots at all on the edges. But the plants that had plastic pots had a fair amount of circling.

Unfortunately you can only order in 50's now, so I picked up 50 each of the 1 gallons, and 3 gallons. Ill be starting a grow soon with them, and will update here later.

Also, on the website it says min order is $3000. Its not true, so dont worry.

 

[vicious bee]

I didn't read the whole thread but has anyone considered using silt fence. Lets water through but not dirt. 30 USD per 100 foot or so.

 

[SecretGardener]

Okay I was wondering could I drill holes around a #7 pot and put a 5 gallon smartpot inside. The #7 will be for moving purposes do you all think this will work for me? I am open to all opions I have until 4/20 to transplant into this setup thanks for all suggestions as usual.Dirrtyd

This is similar to what I was thinking. I did not read the entire thread since I just discovered it but did anyone suggest just drilling a bunch of air holes in the sides of a 5 gallon bucket? Wouldn't this allow enough air to prune most of the roots? Seems tedious but if it stops root circling I'll give it a try! I try to stick with cheap DIY solutions because the last thing my wife needs to see is me buying more stuff for "the factory" as she calls it.

 

[hahhh]

silt fence is too inexpensive. smartie pots!

 

[SELFHEMPLOYED]

This is similar to what I was thinking. I did not read the entire thread since I just discovered it but did anyone suggest just drilling a bunch of air holes in the sides of a 5 gallon bucket? Wouldn't this allow enough air to prune most of the roots? Seems tedious but if it stops root circling I'll give it a try! I try to stick with cheap DIY solutions because the last thing my wife needs to see is me buying more stuff for "the factory" as she calls it.

Whydo you need something around the outside of the smartpot? They are sturdy as can be once filled correctly with soil. This is an unnecessary step imo.

 

[vicious bee]

silt fence is too inexpensive. smartie pots!

Crack me up. Also the "The Factory" comment tickled me. The cheap way. Get some 27.00 for 100 feet silt fence. Staple it together with a stapler. Good to go. I think some of those big smart pots cost a fortune. Don't pay any attention to me I grow in McDonald's cups with NAPA floor sweep compound.

 

[joeking]

Hey guys, and gals...heres what your looking for. Hope this helps. Peace
http://www.everestgardensupply.com/index_CON.php