Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

[caterpillar710]

Hope you'd see by now there's nothing indirect about my approach.

Nope just asking you what you think about acetates.

I read some real interesting stuff showing k acetate to be 57% more available when used on foliar compared to k sulfate

Thanks

 

[plantingplants]

http://www.ipni.net/publication/bettercrops.nsf/0/F344B8D48D52D2F785257D2E006FE637/$FILE/BC-1995-2%20p20.pdf

^^^ k acetate (ch3cook) didn't do so well in this paper. What do you think? Looks like k carbonate and bicarbonate increases tissue k the most.

 

[slownickel]

The link didn't work for some reason. Please try again or use the google url shortener.

I have no experience with K Acetate. Albion uses it in their K product.

Seems awful expensive.

 

[Avenger]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ajkZkL5rNHo8I_11w&sig2=kfAMriyfwhmOJIiChr5Q4w

 

[plantingplants]

Thanks avenger, that's the one.

Slow, how's your plant coming along??

 

[slownickel]

Potassium acetate is extremely alkaline and is hard to get the pH down. The metalosate product has on their SDS that the pH is 6-8. Makes me think they want 6 and they actually have 8. haha. I will ask my friends there the real poop on the pH. Unless one of you lads has a pH meter and a bottle of this stuff.

Given the pH is high, lots of folks with problematic water aren't going to see the response that maybe someone with water with a pH of 5.5 or so.

Plus there will be zero chance of getting this stuff certified as organic. (The market for good high quality product and organic is where I would be aiming.)

With my water, this stuff would be a nightmare IMO.

 

[slownickel]

Week 7

Week 7



Still clear and milky trichomes...

 

[jidoka]

Well done. It ain't gonna take you long at all. Respect

 

[caterpillar710]

Don't know why an organic acid like acetate would be a problem

http://customagronomics.com/pdfs/Ace29.pdf

 

[jidoka]

I use albion K. Better response by far than sulfate using a horiba K meter

Edit...i always keep k on the low side and then foliar based on meter numbers

 

[slownickel]

I use albion K. Better response by far than sulfate using a horiba K meter

Edit...i always keep k on the low side and then foliar based on meter numbers

Maybe you could do us all a favor and test the pH of the Albion K.

Your strategy is quite interesting, if however, K is the transporter of sugars and assimilates, it is a long way around to get your K from foliars and expect them to bring up all the goodies from the roots.

 

[caterpillar710]

It's always gotta be something with you ..

No comment on acetate being an organic acid ?

 

[Avenger]

the point of deliquescence is important to the efficacy of any foliar applied fertilizer.

 

[MrBungle]

Word of the day: deliquescence... not to be confused with hygroscopic

 

[caterpillar710]

That is why I'm interested in acetates. Where I'm at the % RH literally never gets up that high unless it's raining constantly. I'm sure the foliar sprays work, I just think they could work better and it's information like the above that I come across that makes me think something's good then you try and talk about it here and just get a bunch of bullshit instead of a cogent discussion about acetate compounds versus sulfates.

Just a good reminder that when you're on the edge there's no one else to ask where it cuts. Hope I don't get too bloodied up trying this new stuff

 

[jidoka]

I never measured pH. I used a sap K meter. The K shows up in the sap far sooner than fulvic chelated k2so4 and both get there quicker than soil applied k2so4 which takes about 10 days in my experience

I have since quit using it. Turns out it has a "preservative" cause the glycine is microbe crack. I love my woo tainio foliar micrones and am not killing them

I just plan ahead a bit more and mix my own with fulvic. Warm water helps so long as you dont add enough to have it crystalize when it cools

Testing how fast stuff gets in the sap is something anyone can do

Edit...w/o the preservative i would use it

 

[slownickel]

I never measured pH. I used a sap K meter. The K shows up in the sap far sooner than fulvic chelated k2so4 and both get there quicker than soil applied k2so4 which takes about 10 days in my experience

I have since quit using it. Turns out it has a "preservative" cause the glycine is microbe crack. I love my woo tainio foliar micrones and am not killing them

I just plan ahead a bit more and mix my own with fulvic. Warm water helps so long as you dont add enough to have it crystalize when it cools

Testing how fast stuff gets in the sap is something anyone can do

Edit...w/o the preservative i would use it

I was referring to the pH of the product itself...

 

[slownickel]

That is why I'm interested in acetates. Where I'm at the % RH literally never gets up that high unless it's raining constantly. I'm sure the foliar sprays work, I just think they could work better and it's information like the above that I come across that makes me think something's good then you try and talk about it here and just get a bunch of bullshit instead of a cogent discussion about acetate compounds versus sulfates.

Just a good reminder that when you're on the edge there's no one else to ask where it cuts. Hope I don't get too bloodied up trying this new stuff

Don't go so near the edge. You may fall off.

 

[jidoka]

This stuff https://customhydronutrients.com/capsil-gallon-p-491.html?cPath=114_116 also speeds stuff into the sap by about a day and gives a bigger response on the meter...no beading off.

CHN will tell you be careful once pistils form cause it can turn them brown. It did not do that to mine.

But do your own test. I do not have enough data yet to confidently recommend it

My avg daytime humidity is 15%...it might hit that 23% at night if i am lucky

 

[caterpillar710]

I never measured pH. I used a sap K meter. The K shows up in the sap far sooner than fulvic chelated k2so4 and both get there quicker than soil applied k2so4 which takes about 10 days in my experience

I have since quit using it. Turns out it has a "preservative" cause the glycine is microbe crack. I love my woo tainio foliar micrones and am not killing them

I just plan ahead a bit more and mix my own with fulvic. Warm water helps so long as you dont add enough to have it crystalize when it cools

Testing how fast stuff gets in the sap is something anyone can do

Edit...w/o the preservative i would use it

I got a real pure source. I'll put you down.