Slow growth rate in flowering

[LavenderCowboy]

Horticultural/Garden lime can be any type of lime....The two words are used as a "catch all" for using any type of lime....Look and see what the bag says it's derived from....It will probably say either hydrated, or dolomite......

The roots like cool feet....I would put a thermometer close to the floor and see what it reads....But if the room is comfortable, I would assume the roots are comfortable also....LC

 

[lumbo]

But is dolomite lime better than non-dol lime, LC? And if so, do you know why?

Makes sense what you say about the roots, too. I would guess that the ambient temp of most garden soil below the surface is lower than what the top of the plant is experiencing, albeit much more steady.

 

[Nickcorp187]

it is hydrated

 

[lumbo]

Meaning?

 

[Purgatory]

This looks like a light intensity problem to me. Some plants use light more efficently then others, while some plants can never seem to get enuff. I have a mostly sativa strain that i run in sog that refused to grow big colas unless i set my 1k's right ontop of them. But when i tried running Sensi Star(an indica dom) in the same system it started burning the leaves and i got light shock. By the look and color of your leaves this definatly doesn't look like a nute problem. If you could show us a pic of where your light is in relation to your plants it would help?

 

[Guest]

I found some info lumbo!

You will find reference to at least four kinds of lime in agriculture: crushed limestone [Calcium carbonate (CaCO3)], dolomitic lime [Calcium-magnesium carbonate (CaCO3--MgCO3)], burned or quick lime [Calcium oxide (CaO)], and slake or hydrated lime ]Calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2)]. Of these, dolomitic lime appears to be the best additive to raise pH and promote growth.

This is because dolomitic lime includes manganese and because dolomite lime acts slowly and continuously, and hydrated lime acts almost instantly. Use hydrated lime instead of dolomite lime for faster results, but don't use too much; you can create toxicity problems, which won't arise with dolomite lime, by using too much hydrated lime. Always use fine dolomite lime, since coarser grades take years to have a substantial effect. Dolomite lime is available at most nurseries.

http://www.sdfern.com/lime.htm

I need that!

Peace and love,
Agnes

 

[Guest]

Maybe we are all thinking about this to hard.....If you really think that flowering is unusually slower, then get to the source that is most important. Your soil, If there is a lockout, then I would suggest a few options, one repot, and while doing that make sure your root structure is in line, another option would be to flush like crazy. No light leaks right? If it was me I would re-pot, but that is just my two cents and it is only worth a penny, so there ya have it.......Peace, Nofind

 

[Verite]

? Heres some thoughts, dont use lime. I havent for years and still grow trees. Ph 7.0 is too high for almost every strain. Ballasts dont kill the lumens of a new bulb. I have a ballast thats over 20 years old and its just as bright in function as the one I bought a year ago.

 

[Nickcorp187]

Ok guys thanks for the info. I will try leaching the pots with some clearex and lots of plain water. I think this in conjuction with a new ballast and some co2 injection should definately solve the problem (I hope). NC

 

[LavenderCowboy]

Agnes made a good post on limes...Basically, there's two kinds that available everywhere....Hydrated and dolomite....Of these, hydrated is what's in most of the garden shops....The thing about hydrated is that it's fast acting...IOW's, it's also gone from the potting mix faster...It will also take the ph higher than dolomite....The dolomite in the "powdered/pulverized" form is the best for our indoor grow potting mixes because it has a neutral ph of 7....Therefore the dolomite itself won't take the ph above 7...Now I'm not saying that something else won't outrun the dolomite and take your ph above 7, but if everything is in balance, the dolomite won't let the potting mix ph rise above 7....The ideal ph is around 6.2, and that's what we should be shooting for....This paragraph deals with PH and it's CHANGES....

Lets talk a little about PH BUFFERING....The word "buffer" means to "absorb the shock of"...Sooo, if an ingredient buffers the ph, that means it absorbs the shock of the ph....Meaning, it takes care of the plants uptake of nutrients within a wide range of ph fluctuation.....Lets just say you have a certain plant that is ph sensitive....So, it won't uptake nutrients unless the potting mix ph is 6.2 on the money.....Buffering the potting mix with Humic acids/fulvic acids will keep the plant feeding if the ph swings and goes up to a neutral 7.....I can't explain how this happens, but it does....You can buy humic acids in liquid or dry form and it should be something we put in all potting mixes in one form or the other....Liquid Karma is a good source of humic acids....Wormcastings are another source.....Anyway, I'm gonna quit rambling about ph and see if there's any questions.....Hope this helps....LC

 

[Guacomole]

how old is your light?

 

[Foreigner]

Ferts?

Ferts?

My apologies to you if I missed this somewhere in the post...

But I would imagine the culprit is a weak fert schedule (since it hadn't been mentioned). Are you giving them enough for this really high energy bloom stage?

Pot size is very important. I grow 250w only and 3 gallons vs 5 gallons really shows a significant yield difference.

Good Luck