What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Silverback discussion about Mould.

G

Guest

Where do you find that product dafunkyjunkie? Id like to check it out? Im not familiar with Mychorrizal fungi. It apparantly hasn't been a problem for me or I would have addressed it. I don't know if the Greencure will work on it.
 
D

dafunkyjunkie

Silverback, are you asking me a question? (sniff sniff) I feel honored. Seriously, I read some of your articles and I was amazed. Especially the Serpintine Method.

But yeah, go to megagro.com, the same website you got the greencure from and go to the "root enhancer" section. It's called "MycoBoost". I use it with the Soil Syrup and I get amazing results. But I also used the "Vacation Watering kit" also with Aquarocks but that was only cuz we had a severe drought with a water ban last summer. Not only that we had 100+ degree weather so the Aquarocks was crucial. So I can't really say if it was just the Mychorizal Fungi that worked or if it was a combination of all three
 

tokinjoe

Active member
I'll definitely give it a shot silverback. Typically my mold probs start around the mid-budding cycle so I'll put it on early. I appreciate the advice bro.
 
G

Guest

Hi everyone,
Thanks Skin,

Good info dafunkyjunkie, thanks,. We're all just students here aren't we? I learn a great deal from new growers with new ideas and questions. Sometimes a question by a new grower will spark a thought process that moves my ball down the field. I am a new grower each spring. New ideas, new strains, new grow spots, new expectations, new challenges. How bout you?

Tokinjoe, early apps are very effective. This will change forever your understanding of what plants you can grow. Where there were some strains probably off limits to you, (me too), they no longer will be.

Of course, this product is for personal grows only. Only planning and proper strain selection will result in successful commercial grow. Theres nothing a grower can spray on a plant that will make up for poor planning and prepartation.
sb


-
 
Last edited:

fisher15

classy grass
Veteran
Excellent, silverback! Ya know, I've got this mj calendar, and last month, the photo was Silverback Guerilla, looked tasty :)

I lost more big colas to botrytis last season than I care to remember. This thread has really got me excited for the possibility of a mold-free season. I've got some Green Cure on the way. Thanks, man
 
G

Guest

Hey fisher15,
Its gonna change the way you approach growing. Its a cure. Im looking for a good picture to use as my avitar.
see ya sb
 
D

dafunkyjunkie

Same here SilverBack,
Every year I try something new. Or try to improve on something that I know. Until recently, I thought that LST and the SCROG method were one of the best things you could do, after reading about your Serpentine method, I realized how much I can improve an already great thing.

This year, I'm taking a different approach. In stead of trying to bust my ass spending a lot of time on every single plant. I'm going to focus on my better strains and guerilla my feminized strains.

I'm going to focus most of my attention on my bomb-assed Double Purple Doja crosses from Outlaw Genetics. HELL YEAH!!! And the OG x Blue Satellite 2.2 by SOL. For the guerilla grows, I'm planting some of the fem Cheese and Trainwreck Greenhouse beans. I think I'm gonna have a very busy but great year. hahaha
 

supersonic

Member
Tanacetum vulgare

Tanacetum vulgare

There is a plant- Tanacetum vulgare... In gardeners advices in newspaper they claim that it prevents mold... it has also other medical effects on human body. I read that before 2 years and I finaly found that article...

Tanacetum vulgare:






it should work als prevention against mold and mildew-rust... and it should be also good to use when mold already appeared, it say it stops the illnes then...
+ it should work against mites on blackberries and against raspberry-beetle...

Here is a receipe how to make it:

Leave 0.5 kg of fresh TV overnight in 5l water.

Next day boil that TV with some water, cool down, filter it, mix it and add

water, it should be of 1/3TVW and 2/3 water...

and then spray the plants with it...

and i think that TV blooms in august, only at the right time. and it grows by the roads, fields, it's easy to find ...

But I did never try this out... anyway, if someone is interested then this simple recipe is here....

all the best....

ss
 
Silverback. I could smell the tobacco state farm boy all over you, always good advice. Good thing the govt got you boys out of tobacco, you're into a much better product now. I'm not in as warm and humid an area, but do have to worry about different fungi on my more legal plants. As mentioned earlier in this thread, air movement is critical to keep things dry thereby avoiding fungus and mold problems. I try hard to avoid the problem rather than having to spray the shit out of things to heal them. But sometimes you gotta spray anyway. With MJ it seems to me that once the plant is moving along nicely, removing a few lower branches encourages air movement, keeping things drier, and short circuiting some mold and fungus. Yes this will cause a plant to reach for the sky, but a second pruning or topping ought to resolve that. Besides colas at the bottom aren't always that great.
My .02
 
Last edited:

ThaiMeUp

Member
Another nice thread, Silverback. Thanks for the info. The rainy season is coming soon here, so I need to be prepared for mold. I mean it gets WET here. And humid. Bummer.
 

SovietFinland

Active member
There is also another plant what is worth trying... Field Horsetail.

field_horsetail1.jpg

Wikipedia: Field Horsetail

Field Horsetail is very high in silicic acid, which also helps heal wounds. Infused oil has been used topically to help strengthen hair and nails. Horsetail infused water can be sprayed on garden plants to help rid them of fungal and mould problems.

Silicic acids promote plant cell wall strength. Since most fungal diseases require initial penetration of the tissue, stregthening this protective layer provides better resistance to various diseases. Best time to crop Field Horsetail is August-September because silicic acid percentage is highest at autumns. As dryed it will preserve ad infinitum.


Recipe is quite similar than supersonic's Tanacetum vulgare recipe:

Soak 0.1 kg dryed (or 0.5 kg fresh) Field Horsetail leafs overnight in 5l water.
Next day boil soaked leafs 30-60 min in that same water. It need to be boiled that organic silicium will mix with water.
Then cool it down.
Filter Field Horsetail soup and add water, 1/4 Horsetail and 3/4 water.
Spray the plants with the mix consecutive days when mold risk in high.


I haven't try this myself, but there are also commercial silicon products on market, so this can actually work. At last September I did harvest some Field Horsetail leafs and dry them. So I am well prepared for rainy summer. :2cents:
 

rabid

Member
GreenCure to the rescue...

GreenCure to the rescue...

silverback, thanks so much for the heads-up about this product.
I saw this thread 14 days ago and ordered GreenCure that night. It arrived 5 days ago (Thailand) and I applied it immediately.

It stopped the mold dead and prevented any more from occurring. I reckon it saved the remaining 70% of my colas. It will be used at the onset of flowering (preventative) from now on.

I didn't think any fungicide could penetrate the dense buds I have but this stuff WORKS :jump:
 
Last edited:

snottyp

Member
maaan as long as you have a good ventilation system and fan moving yo air around your good, its all about preventation. just know what kinda environment your looking for and you wont set yourself up
 

rabid

Member
skin said:
good thread silverback , very interesting reading !
i have recently moved to another country and am getting every sort of mould, mildew and creepy crawley going , i just got to find a supplier in europe now and hopefully that will be the mould under controll :)
thanks again

Hey skin, unless you're in Outer Mongolia I reckon www.megagrow.com will ship to ya.

I'm in Thailand and it came in about a week.

Oh, and snotty...obviously you aren't outdoors with 80-100 degrees and 70%-100% humidity year round :bashhead:
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

Hey rabid. Im glad its working for you. I go around each year and squirt my females that threaten mould and theres never any mould. Its better used in a preventative application in my book, but ive sprayed it right on existing mould and the area is sloughed off and the plant continues to flower normally. Its relatively cheap as well.

snottyp, there isn't any electricity at any of my sites so the only ventilation we see here in this forum is provided by mother nature. Sometimes its a breeze, but sometimes its just still with 80% humidity. At other times, the ventilation comes in at 60 miles an hour as a thunderstorm downburst. OD is a differerent enviroment.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
SB
I too am going to use it and saw it in our local grow shop for 20 bills. I was surprised and happy to see it there.
Thanks
 

dkmonk

Member
Im starting my first major outdoor crop right in the middle of indiana pretty much, anyone here have experience with this area and mold, i have a feeling it is going to be a huge problem because humidity sucks here. I can only get to my garden once a month for security issues. What do you suggest, a spray in august and then again in sept.?
 
G

Guest

hamstring, you'll keep using it once you start. Go out about 2 weeks after flowering begins and before the notches of the branches are hidden by the buds and spray. Lowes has a good little 1 gallon sprayer cheap. Thats enough stuff to treat about 6 - 6 foot plants. If its a really heavy budded strain like big bud or northern lights, you might squirt them again about 2 weeks from finish. You might also reapply right after a long rainy cold period. It will let you grow any strain available.

dkmonk, indiana can be mould country. Its a long state though from north to south. Evansville's climate is much different than Gary's. General rule for your area? Nearly all sativa's will be fine and any indica/sativa or pure indica hybird that isnt structured with tight,heavy buds such as big bud, northern lights, sadu, california orange, etc. Thats what I believe dkmonk.
 

dkmonk

Member
Well I am right in the middle pretty much a little bit south west of Indianapolis but less than an hour away. I have all bagseed, but dont get me wrong the best Nap town (indianapolis) has for high mids, we have been getting half pounds and pounds from the same dude for about a year until 4 months ago. I should be expecting some nice even crosses, cuz all his gear had decent taste, nice uplifting high with a little body stone, definatley not Bloomington dank (bubblegum, g13, and so on), but good quality herb for cheap.

He gave us names sometimes but that is only to be takin with a grain of salt, SKunk 1 (wasnt stinky in bag but once smoked stunk up the whole house), Day Wrecker, Diesel, Sweet Tooth (which i really think was sweet tooth). I cant remember most of the other shit though. So i do think i will have nice hyrids usually leaning to sativa side since that is what the high leaned toward.
 

southwind

Member
I am sold

I am sold

To all who contributed..and for those who introduced Greencure
THANK YOU.

Now this is REALLY a cure?

I.E.Let us suppose a bud gets the rot, will it STOP it?

Or is it purely PREVENTATIVE?

I love this thread , But I am pooped and cant gothrogh another thread all the way tonight...

thanks in advance [ i mean that[

sw
 
Top