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Self-Reliance Micro Cab'n

Bueno Time

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Alright I found some Meanwell dimmable drivers that can run a single CXA3070 each driver at your 1400mA+ target maximum. All 3 drivers mentioned are ~91% efficient and power factor corrected which is very good. $42 each plus shipping from Jameco, maybe cheaper elsewhere I didnt look.

HLN-80H-42B has a 25.2-42vF range with max of 1950mA, with a 100K ohm potentiometer and a 10k ohm resistor in series on the dimming circuit you would be able to adjust from 10%-100% of max current.

HLN-80H-48B has a 28.8-48vF range with a max of 1700mA, same deal with the dimmable setup.

HLN-80H-54B has a 32.4-54vF range with a max of 1500mA, same deal again for dimming.

I would go with the 42B probably out of those since any of them will run a single 3070 COB at a comfortable vF for the driver the only difference then being the max current of the drivers, if dimmable might as well have a higher max current even if you never need it, right?

There is an A version for each driver that has built in adjustable potentiometer, however the adjust ability is very limited compared to getting the B version and running a pot and resistor to adjust current with. I would highly recommend the B over the A.

The 42A is only adjustable between 1170-1950mA. 42B with 100k ohm pot. and 10k ohm resistor in series on the dimming circuit of the driver would be adjustable ~195-1950mA or 10-100%.

The 48A 1020-1700mA, 42B with pot./resistor ~170-1700mA adjust ability.

The 54A 900-1500mA, 54B with pot./resistor ~90-1500mA adjust ability.

Not sure if these fall in your price range but the adjustability of current (therfore also adjustability of the associated heat that comes with the higher levels of light). Would make it easy to adjust your light level to the ability of your cab to keep the area cool and also to the age/size of the plants.

Im looking at the HLN-40H-42B for my veg lighting Im thinking about building, they seem like a real nice option for a reliable brand dimmable driver, and are power factor corrected with good efficiency too.
 

Bueno Time

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
There were a couple examples on RIU for the driver. Not to worried about that as I wont have the cash for a week or two.

I am sure the 1400ma will be over kill in my box right now but I have an idea for running co2 to take advantage of over lighting and higher temps. Since my existing ventilation pretty much sucks (2 120mm pc fans with a charcoal box in between) I was thinking it would be easy to boost the co2 in such a small space. I already own co2 aquarium equipment and have knowledge of what it does to plants in high light environments. My plan is to try co2 with the fans set to the minimum and see if I can get the ppms up and if not then try putting one of the two fans on a timer to shut off while the co2 is going. I need to keep negative room pressure for odor control but with the lights being externally cooled it might work.

You will need a constant airflow through the space to keep heat from building up, the COBs do put off a significant amount of heat from the face side too, not just the heatsink. I dont know how much in a quantifiable number but there will be heat generated in the grow space.
 

3dDream

Matter that Appreciates Matter
Veteran
grouchy - I run a single 3070 in stacked plastic tubs. I am prob running it at 80-90w with a large passive heatsink. I do use a 50cfm (after the carbon) fan on the little setup. I run cooler than the room at the canopy level.
 

grouchy

Active member
Alright I found some Meanwell dimmable drivers that can run a single CXA3070 each driver at your 1400mA+ target maximum. All 3 drivers mentioned are ~91% efficient and power factor corrected which is very good. $42 each plus shipping from Jameco, maybe cheaper elsewhere I didnt look.

HLN-80H-42B has a 25.2-42vF range with max of 1950mA, with a 100K ohm potentiometer and a 10k ohm resistor in series on the dimming circuit you would be able to adjust from 10%-100% of max current.

HLN-80H-48B has a 28.8-48vF range with a max of 1700mA, same deal with the dimmable setup.

HLN-80H-54B has a 32.4-54vF range with a max of 1500mA, same deal again for dimming.

I would go with the 42B probably out of those since any of them will run a single 3070 COB at a comfortable vF for the driver the only difference then being the max current of the drivers, if dimmable might as well have a higher max current even if you never need it, right?

There is an A version for each driver that has built in adjustable potentiometer, however the adjust ability is very limited compared to getting the B version and running a pot and resistor to adjust current with. I would highly recommend the B over the A.

The 42A is only adjustable between 1170-1950mA. 42B with 100k ohm pot. and 10k ohm resistor in series on the dimming circuit of the driver would be adjustable ~195-1950mA or 10-100%.

The 48A 1020-1700mA, 42B with pot./resistor ~170-1700mA adjust ability.

The 54A 900-1500mA, 54B with pot./resistor ~90-1500mA adjust ability.

Not sure if these fall in your price range but the adjustability of current (therfore also adjustability of the associated heat that comes with the higher levels of light). Would make it easy to adjust your light level to the ability of your cab to keep the area cool and also to the age/size of the plants.

Im looking at the HLN-40H-42B for my veg lighting Im thinking about building, they seem like a real nice option for a reliable brand dimmable driver, and are power factor corrected with good efficiency too.

The 42 volt one you mentioned is the one I was thinking of getting. I believe stardustsailor was using those on riu for his rig. It would be neat to someday automate a light rig to dim automatically according to inside temps. Maybe those guys will be able to help me write some code in the future. Micro growing is going to get a lot easier in the future. Has anyone seen a cxa-3070 in a pc yet?
 

grouchy

Active member
grouchy - I run a single 3070 in stacked plastic tubs. I am prob running it at 80-90w with a large passive heatsink. I do use a 50cfm (after the carbon) fan on the little setup. I run cooler than the room at the canopy level.

I really like your tub! It was one of the many micros that convinced me these new leds are legit.
 

Bueno Time

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The 42 volt one you mentioned is the one I was thinking of getting. I believe stardustsailor was using those on riu for his rig. It would be neat to someday automate a light rig to dim automatically according to inside temps. Maybe those guys will be able to help me write some code in the future. Micro growing is going to get a lot easier in the future. Has anyone seen a cxa-3070 in a pc yet?

These are the ones SDS has in his setup.

http://www.jameco.com/1/1/47167-hlp...output-switching-power-supply-open-frame.html

HLP-80H-42 and they are open frame, bare circuit boards.

HLN-80H-42B is the one I recommended you.

They are similar in function and specs. HLN is encased in plastic and some specs are slightly different but very similar, also is cheaper by a couple dollars. Also, from Jameco anyway, the HLP is 7 weeks after ordering to ship and the HLN is only 3 days after order. Id go with the HLN being encased and cheaper and available sooner after ordering. Plus the HLN has the dimming circuit all wired up already you just need to put a resistor and pot of your choice on the dim+ and dim- wires and your good to go for dimming.

You would need an arduino to setup auto dimming according to temp. I know nothing about those things, SDS is the man with that.
 

Dion

Active member
hi grouchy right now i would suggest the cxb 3070 ab bin @ digi key for like 41 bucks

for fish i use gold fish in the aquaponics they shit a lot and can handle pretty much any temp/ ph ive thrown at them without stress

if u get a gold fish make sure its not the fancy ones with big eyes and long tails you want a simple feeder fish

i feed and over feed until i get about 450ppm of nitrate with a ph of 6-6.7 i grow lettuce from the same tank to keep N down and allow flowering plants to get the P and K

thats just how i do it

your project looks fun and yes it taste good in aquaponics but unless you can get the ppm high enough you wont get the benifits of hydro(faster growth) and could just do organic soil
 

grouchy

Active member
I took down the aquaponics and went back to organic soil in 2 gallon smartpots. They are under two cxa3070 running at 60 watts each right now. I'm not in a position for pics right now but the lights are kicking ass and my new blumat system is amazing for micro stealth growing. When I can, I will update with some pics
 

grouchy

Active member
What I have found to work well is filling my blumat reservoir with water from my 46g fish tank. It's loaded with nitrates and the chlorine is already evaporated. I use preservative free fish food and the plants seem to love it. I probably won't use it during the last couple weeks of flower so the plants can have some time to flush.
 

grouchy

Active member
Still going strong. Running the two cxa3070 3000k at 42w each in the flower side and made a couple diy leds out of some 15w daylight bulbs and scrap aluminum for the veg side. I'm just finishing up one girl this week in flower and my clones should show roots any day. I don't have much room in the current veg area for much more than two moms and a cloner so I will need to veg in the flower room for about a month under the crees. Two 3g smart pots and the two best clones will be used. I'm going to run my indica pheno of Nirvana NYPD for the next cycle. My goal will be three ounces but its hard in a 11"x19" area.

I have been planning a new cabinet lately and will begin building it over the winter. It is a metal storage cabinet that measures 18"x36"x72". I want to divide it into a 2' veg area on the bottom, a 3' flower area on top of that and a small ballast/heatsink/fan/filter area above the flower area. I am looking at adding a 2700k cxa3590 to my existing crees when I build the new flower light. For the veg area I will probably just use a pair of 3590s run lightly. Running a three plant perpetual flower cycle would give me more than I consume.

I will try and get some picture updates throughout the next flower cycle.
 

dookiegrow

New member
Nice setup man! Great to see that you've moved over to DYI LEDs. Would you say that you get better results out of the LEDs than your HID setup in such a small space? Let us know how the new cab turns out, I'm converting a box with similar dimensions as your's and would like some ideas for light proofing/sealing and airflow. Keep it up!!
 

wumpyc

Member
Howdie grouchy bless your females yo' got it right for sure Many great things to come to the.subbed :D cheers
 

grouchy

Active member
Nice setup man! Great to see that you've moved over to DYI LEDs. Would you say that you get better results out of the LEDs than your HID setup in such a small space? Let us know how the new cab turns out, I'm converting a box with similar dimensions as your's and would like some ideas for light proofing/sealing and airflow. Keep it up!!
The leds have made a complete difference in my setup. I never could get the heat fixed during summers when ambient temps can get over 80f, now I can just turn the power down and it keeps on rocking. I don't lose any light from trying to reflect a round bulb downward, it's all coming out in the right direction with leds. I can also remove a majority of the heat through the fins of the heatsinks which is not part of the filtered cabinet air flow. No better light source for micros imo. Let me know if I can help when the time comes.
 

ReikoX

Knight of the BlackSvn
Still going strong. Running the two cxa3070 3000k at 42w each in the flower side and made a couple diy leds out of some 15w daylight bulbs and scrap aluminum for the veg side. I'm just finishing up one girl this week in flower and my clones should show roots any day. I don't have much room in the current veg area for much more than two moms and a cloner so I will need to veg in the flower room for about a month under the crees. Two 3g smart pots and the two best clones will be used. I'm going to run my indica pheno of Nirvana NYPD for the next cycle. My goal will be three ounces but its hard in a 11"x19" area.

I have been planning a new cabinet lately and will begin building it over the winter. It is a metal storage cabinet that measures 18"x36"x72". I want to divide it into a 2' veg area on the bottom, a 3' flower area on top of that and a small ballast/heatsink/fan/filter area above the flower area. I am looking at adding a 2700k cxa3590 to my existing crees when I build the new flower light. For the veg area I will probably just use a pair of 3590s run lightly. Running a three plant perpetual flower cycle would give me more than I consume.

I will try and get some picture updates throughout the next flower cycle.

That's what I used for my cab, but mine is 24" deep.
picture.php
 

grouchy

Active member
Time is long over due for an update on my cab. Here is my current run on day 36 of flower. The cree leds are absolutely amazing and have been giving me harvest after harvest for almost two years now.

picture.php


This is one of five s1 seeds I found in a bag back in 2011. Probably my fifth run of her from clones. She tastes like grapefruit or more specifically squirt soda after a good cure. I just finished up a seed run where I selfed her again and pollinated her sister who had chunkier buds and grew shorter.

I'm running her in organic soil in a 2 gallon fabric pot using water only and act teas occasionally. There are also some diy co2 yeast bottles in there but without a co2 meter I am unsure if they are helping. I use blumats for watering with ro water. I accidentally set the blumats a little on the wet side last week and she didn't like the wet roots very much.

My last couple harvests have been around two ounces each. Running each led at about 35 watts.
 

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