no,i dont use a lower watt light.i thought about it but never saw anyone doing it.i thought about overwatering at first but it doesnt fully look like it.i have done it,i know how it looks like.so i changed watering schedule and quantities.did tests watering to runoff when dry,watering when not fully dry,watering even every day,defines logic i know but when you do what was working and it doesn't you get crazy ideas.is it a common practice to use smaller bulbs whith dimmable balasts?even so i didn't have a problem in my previous grows.and never had iron/sulfur deficiency either.but light is one of the 3 common things so many dead seedlings had in common.i thought ballasts ignite the bulbs throwing lots of watts on them,like 3-4k and then dim them down so i don't think the light isn't igniting.i get proper readings on my lux meter so i don't think it's the light but i might try to set up something to test this too.i already ordered some distilled water to test the other common thing because testing the tent is the harder thing to do.ill attach a pic from 12 days old.have you ever seen overwatered seedling looking like this?when i overwatered in the past i had curling with magnesium deficiency.With your hps dimmed, are you using a lower wattage bulb? If you have a 600 w ballast operating at a lower setting your bulb choice should match your wattage selection or things won't ignite fully.
Looks like overwatering and too much nutes. Seeds can easily be started under HID lamps: 3-4 ft away for 400-600w, 6 ft distance for 1000w.
Good Luck, never give up!!
300 watts are not that much,it's like a good 150watt led but where i live they sell the 200w leds like 300-400 euros.and they are not even good.i just found a shop selling mars hydro and i will change from the hps at some point.never had clones so i popped seeds,dimmed the light to 300 and let the magic happen.now i want to clone so ill go buy some fl to set a cloning station and this is where i might test if the tent is causing troubles.Side question, why would anyone keep their light source so far away when you can reduce the electricity and run a cheaper light, closer?
I have some nice Aglex M240 LEDs that are great for veg and cheap from Amazon. I can bud under them but the buds aren't super tight. They run cool with remote controllers.300 watts are not that much,it's like a good 150watt led but where i live they sell the 200w leds like 300-400 euros.and they are not even good.i just found a shop selling mars hydro and i will change from the hps at some point.never had clones so i popped seeds,dimmed the light to 300 and let the magic happen.now i want to clone so ill go buy some fl to set a cloning station and this is where i might test if the tent is causing troubles.
the plants need time to adapt to the changes, in 3 months you have made too many nutrient and other changes, in the first photos I see that you mix the nutrient brands, don't do it, do you use canna terra? canna has its own cal mag designed for its own nutrient needs, focus on a single line of nutrients and don't change it until you have it tuned/dialed. first mix the cal mag and give it time to settle, minimum half an hour, then continue with the base and the same, minimum half an hour to settle and measure the ph, the rhizotonic triggers the ph a lot and needs time to settle and must be mixed slowly or it can damage the mix. wash the soil, prepare a soft mixture of 1.2 EC and give it a spray with cal mag and fulvic acids and forget about the plant, it is a weed not an orchid.300 watts are not that much,it's like a good 150watt led but where i live they sell the 200w leds like 300-400 euros.and they are not even good.i just found a shop selling mars hydro and i will change from the hps at some point.never had clones so i popped seeds,dimmed the light to 300 and let the magic happen.now i want to clone so ill go buy some fl to set a cloning station and this is where i might test if the tent is causing troubles.
Mixing nutrients is not a problem if you know what you mix.Mixing salts is what all nutrients are made of but this nutrient line puts their humics fulvics or aminos in this bottle,the other puts it in other.That is where it can go wrong most of the times.I was mixing nutrients without any problems and i avoid mixing proprietary blends.The plants in the fotos are my first 10 seedlings,doing what i was used to do.the different mixes are not used in one plant.I germinate seeds and trying to get them to live with different methods.so 10 seeds,2 low ec different ph,2 medium ec different ph,2 just water etc.different mediums too.and of course i went by the feeding schedules too without mixing any other stuff in.the crazy thing is that i have the same results with different procedures.the plants need time to adapt to the changes, in 3 months you have made too many nutrient and other changes, in the first photos I see that you mix the nutrient brands, don't do it, do you use canna terra? canna has its own cal mag designed for its own nutrient needs, focus on a single line of nutrients and don't change it until you have it tuned/dialed. first mix the cal mag and give it time to settle, minimum half an hour, then continue with the base and the same, minimum half an hour to settle and measure the ph, the rhizotonic triggers the ph a lot and needs time to settle and must be mixed slowly or it can damage the mix. wash the soil, prepare a soft mixture of 1.2 EC and give it a spray with cal mag and fulvic acids and forget about the plant, it is a weed not an orchid.
those plants were not fed.I dissasembled the tent and ill update with the resultsThe yellowing on the plant leaves in the photos is caused by excess nutrients. Quit using tap water for the best results and don't use any fertilizers while your plants are baby seedlings. You are pushing too hard.
seedlings in hot soil don't look like that.why blame the soil i have previously grown succesfully with when the plants aren't even showing the right signs to blame it and not blame the tent when shit happens from the time i purchased it and my plants have all the right signs of offgasing?i have already bought different bag of this soil and different brand of soil but i already said that in previous messages.i decided to dissasemble the tent because after remove two new seedlings and leave them under 10 watt bulb they started green up a little in just 2 days.Still, that probably means the soil mix was nutrient heavy for young plants. I usually buy the seedling and cloning soil from the general gardening stores for seed germination. Much better than fuck up some seeds cause the mix I used was a bit more fertigated than it should have been. It happens sometimes with big batches, that is why the proprieties are usually given as an interval and not fixed ones.
Hello people.I have a serious problem after some succesfull grows.Every seedling dies second to third node from iron/sulfru like deficiency.At first i thought i overwatered.So i changed what i knew.Started experimenting,less water,more water,different nutrients,different ppms,different ph,different medium,light far,light close.Everything i do the seedlings die.They all exhibit the same deficiency.I have been experimenting with over 40 seeds,starting over and over again but nothing seems to work.Only 1 seedling wasn't fully affected,managed to survive that i will try clone because this girl is made of iron!!!After all this time i stumbled uppon a thread about grow tents killing plants from offgasing.And the symptoms i have are the same exact as those from people having problematic tents.And my tent is also new,3 months old,so it might be a huge coinsidence and i am trash grower or 2022 and there are still tents that kill plants.Sorry if i made vocabulary and grammar mistakes,not my native language.Any help or thoughts would be highly aprreciated.I will include some pics.The likelihood of offgassing being the cause of your problems is extremely remote. It would be nice to be able to blame the Tent because that was not something you did. However, it is much more likely that you are Overwatering. Also, others have pointed out that you are changing things before you have identified which parameters are out of sync. This causes more stress for you and your plants. We kill them with Kindness sometimes.
I don't mind helping you in the future but I don't want to sit here and play who's right and who's wrong in Threads I'll help you in a private message hopefully solve your problems in the futureMixing nutrients is not a problem if you know what you mix.Mixing salts is what all nutrients are made of but this nutrient line puts their humics fulvics or aminos in this bottle,the other puts it in other.That is where it can go wrong most of the times.I was mixing nutrients without any problems and i avoid mixing proprietary blends.The plants in the fotos are my first 10 seedlings,doing what i was used to do.the different mixes are not used in one plant.I germinate seeds and trying to get them to live with different methods.so 10 seeds,2 low ec different ph,2 medium ec different ph,2 just water etc.different mediums too.and of course i went by the feeding schedules too without mixing any other stuff in.the crazy thing is that i have the same results with different procedures.
thank you.every help is aprreciated.I don't mind helping you in the future but I don't want to sit here and play who's right and who's wrong in Threads I'll help you in a private message hopefully solve your problems in the future
Are you familiar with the offgasing thread?If not please read it.I've read 18 pages of it and didn't see anyone bleed or die,just the plants.It takes different amounts of VOC to cause troubles to humans and plants.Some plants don't even have a problem,they just clean them up from the atmosphere.That's why the company admitted to have problematic tents that kill plants stated that they are aware of a problem with tents offgasing and create problems to a certain sensitive plant.If the offgassing was significant enough to kill your plants, you would not be able to spend any real time in or near it without it affecting you as well. So far , you have not mentioned any issues like Headache or Nosebleed after spending time tending your plants. If you had, this would steer the search for cause to the Tent. Without any factor pointing towards the Tent as the source of the issues, it doesn't score any points as you add up the tally of potential problem sources. Maybe it is Hop Latent Virus
It was my first thought too.And i tested it.I already started the experiment with no tent.It's their first day out.3 months+ now i am blaiming myshelf.But having done everything i look at the parameters i havent changed.Do you think 10 different seedlings,with different watering schedules,different nutrient lines,different mediums and different nutrient strenghts could exhibit the same symptoms?I think only if it was some virus as you wrote before or anything they have in common.Yes I am familiar with that thread. Stool, I stand by what I've been saying. Much more likely that Overwatering is the problem. It is, has been, and will continue to be the number 1 cause of problems for All indoor plants. I worked in the Nursery trade for over 20 years, nobody ever wants to admit they have been Overwatering. We developed a series of questions to get to the answer without directly blamining water to start. 9 times out of 10 it is Water. Too wet, and you are feeding too early. It doesn't have to be any more complicated. Get a new tent, repeat your method and report back.