Sealed room build

[Dank D]

Hey Everyone,

My new room is currently under construction. Ive come to a point im looking for a little feed back on. So if anyone has any thoughts or experience with, please share.

My new room will be sealed and im trying to decide what to use for the walls and ceiling.
While I dont mind spending money, i dont want to waste it.

First some room details..

My new room is in a unheated semi unfinished basement. So it is a room with in a room.
I put Roxul safe n sound in the unfinished ceiling joists.
I then built a 8'x5' room with 2x4"s and insulated this with Roxul comfortbatt R14 on all walls, ceiling and floor. Then vapor barrier on walls and ceiling.

Now the drywall for the walls are what i still need to decide on.

Is the cheapest way with one layer of 1/2" good enough? about $120

Is the most expensive way with double layer 5/8" firecore and green glue in between for about $850 ($430 drywall and $420 Green glue) really worth it?
Anyone use Green Glue??

Or possibly single layer of 1/2" Mold Tough drywall for about $215

Or go with something in-between??? If anyone has any suggestions??

I think im leaning a little towards the single layer of Mold tough. I could always do a run or two with that and add a second layer in the future.

Anyone have they care to throw my way.

 

[Floridian]

My sealed room was already existing but if it were me I would half inch drywall I don't think 5/8 would make any difference in it being "sealed".

 

[Dank D]

Hey Floridian,

Thanks for the response.

yes I agree the room will be sealed with only one layer of any drywall.

However, I should have been a little more clear. I was more thinking about the sound,
and if it was really worth it do go with two layers and green glue for more than 4x the cost of a single layer

While I dont need the room to be silent, my bedroom is above this new room.

My sealed room im replacing was made of 1/2" OSB board, 2"x"3" studs and no insulation,
and in a far corner in the basement away from bedrooms. This was a little too loud for my liking.

Has anyone here with a sealed room used green glue and double layer drywall and found it worth all the extra money??

 

[Dank D]

well after more reading about the mold tough drywall, and the fact that it cost 75% more than normal. I opted for normal single layer drywall.

Got it all installed and painted.

now working on my electrical.

I want to hook up a 220volt high temp shut off for the lights.
Im hoping someone can help with a little guidance.

I have one 1000 hps for now, will be adding a second soon.
I have a Intermatic T104 timer with a 220v receptacle to plug the lights into.
I already had a Dimplex double pole line voltage thermostat.
Ive read thru some other threads and it seems I can make this work.
Just not %100 sure how to hook it all up, or if i need a few more things.

Can anyone help walk me thru this or suggest something else.

 

[Weed Gretzky]

drywall was a good choice now you can hang reasonably heavy stuff where ever you want with out looking for studs to anchor into.

 

[Floridian]

Your choice of the intermatic timer is excellent its what I've used for 3 1K's for a long time now.I guess a 2 pole thermostat is prudent,you will be using co2 right?If your cooling system is sufficient you should be good.I just never saw a need for a thermostat,but then again I was here most of the time.Flower with 80F temps for best results I have found

 

[Dank D]

Im pretty happy with how things are coming together.
This is my second sealed room. So im hoping to improve on everything I did the first time.
Yes im using co2. Im using a Sentinel EVC-2 for my environmental controls and the Sentinel CPPM-1 monitor.
For now im using a window ac unit. planing to upgrade to a mini spit.
I did have an ac failure two years ago. was only a few months into veg, so it wasnt a huge lost. Figured im upgrading everything else, why not put a high heat shut off.

 

[Floridian]

No reason at all you're more thorough than me.I've always used a 15000 BTU window shaker and found its important that it bottoms out at 60F.Most are 65F

 

[Cheesegez]

I like the sealed room concept it makes things easier to control , below pics is of ours located somewhere in the northern hemisphere built within an old storage cabin ..

things to note...

have a back up temp cut out as if the ac fails things can go wrong very fast

you will need some serious dehumidification at night as naturally the RH levels will co equal 99% trust me your controller wont be lying

you will need some sort of circulation filtration i.e carbon filters / our a new technology called bi-polar ionisation which works excellent in sealed environments neutralises all airborne odours and viruses and bacteria without harming live terpenes ... they use in down in Colorado commercially

air movement is even more critical in sealed environments so make sure it adequate , even going to lengths of having fans pulling air from the floor to the ceiling as CO2 build up in root zones is not uncommon as its heavier than air and oxygen because it will without a doubt be oxygen enriched with little nitrogen ....

apart from that id say a sealed room is one of the healthiest environment's to be in .....

P.s don't kill yourself from CO2 poisoning .. things can leak do a lighter check everytime you enter / or use a canary

 

[Cheesegez]

well after more reading about the mold tough drywall, and the fact that it cost 75% more than normal. I opted for normal single layer drywall.

Got it all installed and painted.

now working on my electrical.

I want to hook up a 220volt high temp shut off for the lights.
Im hoping someone can help with a little guidance.

I have one 1000 hps for now, will be adding a second soon.
I have a Intermatic T104 timer with a 220v receptacle to plug the lights into.
I already had a Dimplex double pole line voltage thermostat.
Ive read thru some other threads and it seems I can make this work.
Just not %100 sure how to hook it all up, or if i need a few more things.

Can anyone help walk me thru this or suggest something else.

The best way to achieve this is to get a fan controller set it to come on at say 34 degrees and then wire the output to a contactor coil then run all the lighting feeds through the contactor... I use this method and the gavita master controller has my back also but it will dim them first to try and establish ambient temps then if that's fails it will total blackout and it will let you know if it has to save your ass too...

Hope that helps

 

[zizration]

drywall was a good choice now you can hang reasonably heavy stuff where ever you want with out looking for studs to anchor into.

lol

 

[Cheesegez]

drywall was a good choice now you can hang reasonably heavy stuff where ever you want with out looking for studs to anchor into.

lol really ? until your humidity rises maybe , the last they anyone wants is a light falling down onto a precious crop , don't know about you,,, but ill stick with the joists

 

[queequeg152]

there are some types of ceiling board thats really quite strong... but id never hang anything on it.

if you need to hang shit, just screw off a series of 1x3 furring strips perpendicular to your joists. you can glue the furring strips along the length of the drywall if you want... but glue is permanent, and without a great deal of effort, you are going to have to patch a massive long drywall spall if you ever need to remove it.

 

[Dank D]

Thanks for the tips everyone.
I have a separate on/off switch for my co2 that i turn off when im in the room.
I would never hang anything to drywall only. I put a strip of plywood thats gets screwed into the studs where I need to hang things.
Things are moving along nicely.
Ive moved the plants into the new room.
here are a few pics of what i have going on.

First, outside the room.


Here is my filter, dehumidifier and heater.


Here you can see the plywood I added to the ceiling for mounting.
im still in veg so only using florescent light.


Finally, what the whole process is for


Now i have to set up my screens, blumats and switch to HPS, and a few little odd and ends.

 

[Weed Gretzky]

operative word was reasonable obviously anything over 40 pounds would be a no go, for a regular sheet. But i don't think many of you are giving plywood much credit. it is a remarkably strong material not a 3/8 sheet. but a 3/4 sheet is quite strong, in fact most of you are relying on it to keep you from falling through the floor. Plywood over drywall any day of the week which was his original question. If you "don't trust plywood when/if gets wet" i guess you've never heard of "the spruce goose". Was an actual giant plane made out of.... you guessed it plywood. If you are talking about press board/chip board or mdf defiantly not very strong. While technically part of the plywood family most carpenters would never call chipboard "plywood". For me and most carpenters plywood would be cross grained laminated plys. Hell i seen a 14 stories building made out of cross laminated timbers in Norway(CLT is not plywood i know but the cross lamination is where it gets strenght from same as plywood. very strong stuff.
I was talking mostly for the wall like hanging oscillating fans, C02 controller. Glad you guys pointed this out though. I didn't think i would have to mention it but your right some people would read my previous statement and think plywood should hold anything, don't go trying to hang a 100 pounds with one shitty screw.

PS In the last pic looks like you are hanging lights from plywood what do ya know...

 

[zizration]

weed!

 

[queequeg152]

plywood sucks ass... especially the construction grade shit.

OSB is flatter than shit, and you can get it in 1-1/4" thick T&G for super flat super quiet subfloor for tile and shit.

still need a decoupling layer, but otherwise you cannot hear shit through a 1-1\4" OSB panel. great stuff.

 

[queequeg152]

View Image

hey wow lol... whats the deal with the drywall door? is that just drywall on plywood or something?
why didnt you just get a 50 dollar prehung interior door?

 

[OldPhart]

I just noticed the window AC unit, right above all your electrical stuff. The window units attempt to get rid of the condensate by the fan blade hitting the water, and throwing it around the inside of the unit to help cool the condenser. When operating in a high humidity environment *grow room* they can get messy spewing and throwing water around. I would do two things; not have it right over the electrical, and if you are very careful, drill a hole in a low spot on the bottom of the ac, and put a drip pan below it to reclaim (or safely drain) the condensate. Another handy feature of drilling a hole in the bottom, is that in the winter time you can just sit it on top of a reservoir, and use it as a water source/dehumidifier.

 

[EastCoast710]

Thanks for the tips everyone.
I have a separate on/off switch for my co2 that i turn off when im in the room.
I would never hang anything to drywall only. I put a strip of plywood thats gets screwed into the studs where I need to hang things.
Things are moving along nicely.
Ive moved the plants into the new room.
here are a few pics of what i have going on.

First, outside the room.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=405152&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Here is my filter, dehumidifier and heater.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=405154&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Here you can see the plywood I added to the ceiling for mounting.
im still in veg so only using florescent light.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=405155&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Finally, what the whole process is for
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=405156&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Now i have to set up my screens, blumats and switch to HPS, and a few little odd and ends.

holy bad placement.. that window AC is in a fucking horrible spot.. right above all of your electrical? who thought that one out? you want to be very careful as those usually leak or need something to catch the water its pulling out of the air.. also that will leak smell into the basement .. so iuno how your going to avoid getting that AC to leak anywhere else other than right ontop of all your electrical.. basically id treat that ac like its a bucket of water just waiting to fuck up your shit.. and maybe even move the ac or the wires and shit.