Speed of green
Active member
The "soil" is inert. peat and perlite mix. i don't know if these plants could handle a feeding that high i think they would burn for sure.
Sealed dep greenhouse
- Thread starter Speed of green
- Start date
is cannabis a super sensitive plant? i would think not... i mean i can run toms way way way up 3ec feed... ive done it before with no negative effects. the runoff ec is much higher too... you just cant do it in the fall or summer when light intensity is low or when temps are very high.
like i said earlier, tobacco is an absolute monster on ferts... its honestly ridicules how much fert a tobacco plant will eat... idk how the fuck they do it in fields? they most just fucking motor up and down the furrows dropping... urea prills and anhydrous ammonia or some cheap shit like that idk.
like i said earlier, tobacco is an absolute monster on ferts... its honestly ridicules how much fert a tobacco plant will eat... idk how the fuck they do it in fields? they most just fucking motor up and down the furrows dropping... urea prills and anhydrous ammonia or some cheap shit like that idk.
Jackstraw215
New member
This grow is exactly like I've been envisioning except maybe using one of these poly greenhouse kits
I live in Norcal though and my temps max out at like 65 even in summer but I'm coastal and get tons of humidity too so I would need heating for the winter and a nice dehu. I was thinking of using carbon filters like you as well I just don't know how my neighbors would feel about it.
you dont really need a gothic arch tunnel for non snow-loady areas like california.
have you seen crushnyuba's poly tunnel thread? that rout is going to be a far cheaper, far more flexible option imho... polycarbonate is nice, but the good panels are ball shatteringly expensive... im guessing what ever is going to come in your kit will be thin and shabby.
also i dont see why one would ever need to dehumidify a greenhouse... when you are heating the thing, you are going to be dropping the RH substantially... so its not like you are going to be all rainforest mode in the winter...
have you seen crushnyuba's poly tunnel thread? that rout is going to be a far cheaper, far more flexible option imho... polycarbonate is nice, but the good panels are ball shatteringly expensive... im guessing what ever is going to come in your kit will be thin and shabby.
also i dont see why one would ever need to dehumidify a greenhouse... when you are heating the thing, you are going to be dropping the RH substantially... so its not like you are going to be all rainforest mode in the winter...
Jackstraw215
New member
Yeah I don't know , I could still see RH being a huge problem, the area I live is abnormal for california and it's incredibly humid at times. I wasn't set on the gothic arch 100%. I don't even know if I want to do it, it kind of scares me if my neighbors wanna be nosey but I could make the area it is more private with shade cloth or something.
i mean humidity could be an issue in the summer.... do you get alot of fog in the mornings? lots of over cast days with little sunlight?
worse case scenario would be a hot humid day without much sunlight. in this case the greenhouse would not heat above ambient very much, and the combined water vapor from the plants + the outdoor air could result in a higher humidity.
in this case though you would be running the greenhouse with as much ventilation as possible... sides rolled up and gable vent fans running full speed for as much air circulation as possible.
i would not expect any greenhouse crop to run without issues... i mean its basically like growing outside unless you want to put agressive insect netting on all of the ventilation and fan intakes.
what im saying is yes humidity could become an issue, but you would address this by conventional means... like maby growing a less dense plant, or adjustiing plant spacing to allow for more air flow. and yea... probably would want a chemical means to control mildew. there are myriad products including sulfur dust and sulfur burners... but sulfur vapor will deposite onto everything including the polyfilm, so you may have to clean it periodically.
worse case scenario would be a hot humid day without much sunlight. in this case the greenhouse would not heat above ambient very much, and the combined water vapor from the plants + the outdoor air could result in a higher humidity.
in this case though you would be running the greenhouse with as much ventilation as possible... sides rolled up and gable vent fans running full speed for as much air circulation as possible.
i would not expect any greenhouse crop to run without issues... i mean its basically like growing outside unless you want to put agressive insect netting on all of the ventilation and fan intakes.
what im saying is yes humidity could become an issue, but you would address this by conventional means... like maby growing a less dense plant, or adjustiing plant spacing to allow for more air flow. and yea... probably would want a chemical means to control mildew. there are myriad products including sulfur dust and sulfur burners... but sulfur vapor will deposite onto everything including the polyfilm, so you may have to clean it periodically.
Jackstraw215
New member
Any day above 65f in the summer is very rare and it's often in the 50's and yes foggy many days and overcast. I see many people with greenhouses for other things so I'm sure it can be done. I read crushnyubas thread and see his pellet stove idea. My GH would be right up against my house and I would implement electric heat. Seems dehu's aren't necessary because you can raise temp by 20f and cut RH in half and use roof vents as well. It would take creativity here, my yard isnt super large and my neighbors arent too far away so I don't even know if it's worth it if I'm doing indoor already. I wouldn't want people to smell a damn thing that's forsure, almost more worried about tweakers than police.
Lime Green
Active member
Same as commercial tomatoes I presume, "aqua ammonia" from anhydrous.
Lime Green
Active member
Exactly what I have done, with window screen material. Still wouldn't say I'm issue proof. But I can tell you this. If one varietal consistently gets PM in said environment, and another doesn't, select for what doesn't. Seems like a no brainer.........
yup
you'll need to beef up security unless you have a gnarly outdoor dog.
I mean if you wanna sleep- cuz they fuckin don't
Speed of green
Active member
I've got a can of bear mace and a baseball bat. i sleep 5' away from the greenhouse, security is pretty tight around here.
yea its too bad nobody is breeding plants conventionally like they do for toms etc... i can buy deruiters seeds that have had their genome sequenced and various traits like virus resistance identified and advertised right in the seed brochure.
out of curiosity... id love to hear what outdoor growers plant. im just assuming the ones bred indoors for massive yields low heights would be no good in a greenhouse... but i could easily be wrong.
Speed of green
Active member
good genetics are good genetics indoors or outdoors. many full season outdoor people do seed starts rather than clone though.
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
Speed of green: i just looked at those yellow pictures. That looks like plants that are in soil and got nitrogen deficiency because they were overwattered. But you feed on every water like i do so that's hard to do. Do you see the way the leaf is curling down?
I would let them dry out real good and then start hitting them with high nitrogen organic shit like fish. Also some shade cloth until they are feeling better because they aren't taking up any water right now and the sun is beeting them up.
I could be totally wrong and i rarely see plants look like that fed on every water. It's more of an organic outdoor over water look.
Last year i had some outdoor blue dreams look exactly like that because my worker overwattered. I let them dry out and threw a but load of chicken poop on it and they came to.
I would let them dry out real good and then start hitting them with high nitrogen organic shit like fish. Also some shade cloth until they are feeling better because they aren't taking up any water right now and the sun is beeting them up.
I could be totally wrong and i rarely see plants look like that fed on every water. It's more of an organic outdoor over water look.
Last year i had some outdoor blue dreams look exactly like that because my worker overwattered. I let them dry out and threw a but load of chicken poop on it and they came to.
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
I don't recommend going to crazy with the nitro because you are flowering. But they are lacking N. It's likely lack of oxygen to the roots that is preventing them from taking up the N. Leafs should be stiff and straight and tracking the sun.
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
I have never used jacks myself. Have you used it before this? I am a sea grow guy myself. 25 lbs for 50$. It's some what organic ish sorta lol. It's 16-16-16 and they have a 4-26-26 for flower. I usually mix the two for flower. The 4-26-26 is way less organic it seems. I don't do ppm. I do tsp per gallon. Sea grow its pretty forgiving. Recently I been giving my veg plants 1.5 tsp pg of 16-16-16 and i haven't gotten a single burn.
Speed of green
Active member
any jacks users ever have yellowing in flower?
It looks like a N deficiency, i am seeing it across all strains, some plants worse than others. In veg the plants looked great, green vigorous growth. when the plants started yellowing i had been feeding them the same thing during veg, 1.2ec 6.2-6.3ph Plants are in PROMIX, i have checked for pests and found none, roots are white and healthy, Runoff is @ .6ec and 5.8ph. I have recalibrate my meters and use two separate ph meters to test everything.
The yellowing started the second week of flower, some lower fan leaves, then the middle, and now i have some at the top. I fed them with a stronger solution a week ago 1.9ec 6.1ph because i thought the sun was so much more intense than 1000w lamps. I had some very minor leaf tip burn a few days after this feeding, so that has me thinking that maybe the strength of the feed was not the issue.
Maybe my mixing method needs to be changed. I'm using r/o water mixing equal volumes, i have a large 250gal rez that i feed from.
My r/o is directly hooked to the 250gal rez. i mix the 250gal rez to 1.2ec and 6.3ph, to mix the rez i take a 5gal bucket and fill it half way with tap water then i dissolve 10tbsp jacks, stir and wait 5 minutes, then 10tbsp cal nit. i take this concentrate and pour it in the 250 rez until it hits 1.2-1.4 ec. After i feed, i normally only use 100-120 gallons, the r/o automatically refills the rez, dropping the ec and changing the ph. the rez sits like this for a few days at a time in between waterings. there is an air stone as well.
The 5 gal bucket i mix in has probably a teaspoon of white powder in it after i mix the concentrate, the concentrate is completely transparent and yellow/light amber like beer.
Can anyone tell me if I'm doing anything wrong?
Photos are attached, Thanks for the help, trying to rule out some variables.
It looks like a N deficiency, i am seeing it across all strains, some plants worse than others. In veg the plants looked great, green vigorous growth. when the plants started yellowing i had been feeding them the same thing during veg, 1.2ec 6.2-6.3ph Plants are in PROMIX, i have checked for pests and found none, roots are white and healthy, Runoff is @ .6ec and 5.8ph. I have recalibrate my meters and use two separate ph meters to test everything.
The yellowing started the second week of flower, some lower fan leaves, then the middle, and now i have some at the top. I fed them with a stronger solution a week ago 1.9ec 6.1ph because i thought the sun was so much more intense than 1000w lamps. I had some very minor leaf tip burn a few days after this feeding, so that has me thinking that maybe the strength of the feed was not the issue.
Maybe my mixing method needs to be changed. I'm using r/o water mixing equal volumes, i have a large 250gal rez that i feed from.
My r/o is directly hooked to the 250gal rez. i mix the 250gal rez to 1.2ec and 6.3ph, to mix the rez i take a 5gal bucket and fill it half way with tap water then i dissolve 10tbsp jacks, stir and wait 5 minutes, then 10tbsp cal nit. i take this concentrate and pour it in the 250 rez until it hits 1.2-1.4 ec. After i feed, i normally only use 100-120 gallons, the r/o automatically refills the rez, dropping the ec and changing the ph. the rez sits like this for a few days at a time in between waterings. there is an air stone as well.
The 5 gal bucket i mix in has probably a teaspoon of white powder in it after i mix the concentrate, the concentrate is completely transparent and yellow/light amber like beer.
Can anyone tell me if I'm doing anything wrong?
Photos are attached, Thanks for the help, trying to rule out some variables.
Stay Gel^N 247
Member
No calmag added? Looks mag def.
CrushnYuba
Well-known member
Doesn't look over watered like the other pictures did. Does look a little mag deficient. I would try foliar with epsom salt.
