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Scattered Sermons & Seed Stockade
- Thread starter Seaf0ur
- Start date
all my plants are in the same soil and get the same treatment, they all seem happy with what i give them
since switching to organics i've lost touch of "heavy feeders" and "light feeders"
the soil provides for the plants, they take what they need when they need it from what is readily available.... the only problems i've had have come from over-watering the soil and saturating roots, possibly not enough aeration material in my soil giving it a structure that lends itself to resist compacting and retaining porosity - kinda hoping all the earthworms in my kiddie pools will do some aerating of the soil for me.
that's my theory at least because i haven't seen any instance of a plant wanting more or less while the others are happy since going the all organic soil and amendments and topdressings route.
only time my room ever appears to need anything is early bloom when plants are stretching sometimes i see some Ca deficiency, but note in the last2 runs...
Maybe it's as easy as over watering then... She has discolored yellow margins around the top new leaves coming out, almost like a Nitrogen toxicity or something like that. I'm not sweating it as she is about to get potted up and flipped, just curious. Thanks Hatch and Miles
just sent a package of beans into the server fund;
iirc: grapestomper og x bubba jam, dosidos x flo scout, and special ogk haze x flo scout
iirc: grapestomper og x bubba jam, dosidos x flo scout, and special ogk haze x flo scout
Maybe it's as easy as over watering then... She has discolored yellow margins around the top new leaves coming out, almost like a Nitrogen toxicity or something like that. I'm not sweating it as she is about to get potted up and flipped, just curious. Thanks Hatch and Miles
Look into Iron and/or Sulfur.
Can't recall which it is that effects the top of the plant but thinking it's Iron.
Just a possibility to check into but it sound different than what I've experienced as iron chlorosis. (Fe typically gets locked out by too much Ca & or bicarbs in your soil, ime)
iirc if leaves yellow between veins from TOP down its FE deficiency
and if leaves yellow between veins from BOTTOM up its MG def
either way, alfalfa usually greens things up for me, been mixing it with kashi in topcoats, lil kelp won't hurt that mix either im sure.
She'll be fine after I give her some new shoes. Ain't skeerd.
How long do you guys let your seeds stay on the vine so to speak? I have some Dank Zappa crosses where the females were flowered out right next to the males and today is day 65 of flowering. I'm hoping to pull everything down this weekend in anticipation of the next round needing to go up but wanted to make sure that was enough time for the seeds to have matured and cut the little seeded plants down or not.
Thanks
How long do you guys let your seeds stay on the vine so to speak? I have some Dank Zappa crosses where the females were flowered out right next to the males and today is day 65 of flowering. I'm hoping to pull everything down this weekend in anticipation of the next round needing to go up but wanted to make sure that was enough time for the seeds to have matured and cut the little seeded plants down or not.
Thanks
i've been letting them go and go till over-ripe with good results; pollinated kind of late this time, flipped girls a couple weeks before the male and got loads of seeds off of relatively scrawny plants vegged and bloomed under t5's, pretty amazed how many beans i got and how good they look (dark, mature) - i let them go 10 weeks maybe 11 just to be sure and i think it paid off. fyi i killed the male after about 5 weeks after he did his duty
about a month a go i was curious of the same thing, did some research and the general consensus was "don't chop it down till you SEE the BROWN"
i took that to mean wait till calyxes are split open and you can easily see a mature seed inside, dark and ready.
also i'm pretty keen on plucking a random calyx and peeling it open to see how the beans are moving along
I neglected to mention that all of this action is going down in my isolation chamber so it's not as easy as just poking around to look at them. I think I'm going to pull it with the Dank Zappas this weekend, process the male's pollen and store it accordingly and spray the shit out of the little females to wash off any excess pollen. Then I could inspect the calyxes and seeds inside and continue to flower them out business as usual next to the next round as long as needed no?
Thanks for the feedback
yes
kill the boy, store his pollen, isolate it
soak the pollinated ladies in foliar to inactivate any residual pollen, and put the prego girls right into the room with the non pollinated or in any space on flowering time and check seed development
really looking forward to the dank zappa crosses you are working on!
kill the boy, store his pollen, isolate it
soak the pollinated ladies in foliar to inactivate any residual pollen, and put the prego girls right into the room with the non pollinated or in any space on flowering time and check seed development
really looking forward to the dank zappa crosses you are working on!
I've been doing some large group open pollination's where the males are let to go 5-7 weeks. I'm seeing large amounts of aborted seeds from the females that are let to go in the same room as the males. These females are 99-100% seeded out since they had access to all of that pollen. I've noticed when they are lightly seeded, that all of the seeds come out mature with no aborted seeds to be found.
If you are able to, I suggest splitting your pollen up and storing it in two different freezers, in the event that one kicks the bucket and thaws out you wont have lost all of your pollen.
good advice!
personally, i don't store pollen, i have poor experience with its viability. i keep plants and seedstock.
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You just haven't got a process down enough yet to make it fool proof. My last batch of pollen I thought it was a week to old(before freezing), but it is still viable several years later.
Seed stock is the best way of storing for the long term.
good advice!
personally, i don't store pollen, i have poor experience with its viability. i keep plants and seedstock.
I'll keep the males around for a bit at least to see what comes of them. Also keep the pollen to selectively pollinate branches of whatever.
I let my seeds mature for at least 6 weeks on the vine & typically get good results.
This last go round, w the 91 Chem IX, took about 12 weeks to produce mature seed.
Idk & don't understand what happened to take these seeds so long to mature. Maybe it was the cold nights that slowed maturation but it's a first for me.
It was just the filial crosses too. The 91IX pollen worked just fine on a couple other plants producing mature seed within the normal time slot. (6-8 weeks)
This last go round, w the 91 Chem IX, took about 12 weeks to produce mature seed.
Idk & don't understand what happened to take these seeds so long to mature. Maybe it was the cold nights that slowed maturation but it's a first for me.
It was just the filial crosses too. The 91IX pollen worked just fine on a couple other plants producing mature seed within the normal time slot. (6-8 weeks)
