Root Aphids pic's

[SeaMaiden]

I doubt that was the issue. My tables aren't that big because I can't handle much weight/size. I think it was either that the Bayer T&S concentration isn't very high (1.47% vs Merit75's 75% imid), or that they weren't as susceptible to the imid as they were to the Triazicide.

The reason I hit on the Triazicide, after considering several other options, was that it does not act systemically in the plant. I don't want those residues if I can help it at all. Add to that the fact that it was indeed effective, and there ya go. No more RAs, hopefully EVER in my lifetime!

 

[Hammerhead]

Yeah, but that's not how diatoms work. It doesn't matter if they have soft bodies or not, as it attacks the joints. Borax acts in a similar manner and scrapes away the waxy coating of a bugs exo-skeleton. This inhibits the bugs ability to hold water and they dehydrate to death...

Sorry thats incorrect .. As the bugs crawl through it it cuts there soft bodies and sucks out there moisture. If they have a hard exoskeleton the Diatoms wont penetrate the bug..Remember it did not work for you maybe you used it incorrectly. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action, by puncturing the insect's body and absorbing the moisture in their bodies. It desiccates the bugs. You are correct in they way it kills but the insects must have a soft body to work effectively. Wont work on Ant 's or any other hard shelled insect.

 

[Yes4Prop215]

like i said earlier...i put down a nice inch layer of DE and havent seen a winged aphid or fungus gnat in a week.....keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[nvthis]

Sorry thats incorrect .. As the bugs crawl through it it cuts there soft bodies and sucks out there moisture. If they have a hard exoskeleton the Diatoms wont penetrate the bug..Remember it did not work for you maybe you used it incorrectly. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action, by puncturing the insect's body and absorbing the moisture in their bodies. It desiccates the bugs. You are correct in they way it kills but the insects must have a soft body to work effectively. Wont work on Ant 's or any other hard shelled insect.

Dude, no offense is intended here as you are free to believe as you wish.. But I will say it again, diatoms attack the joints, regardless of exoskeleton size/strength/thickness/hardness. You said it yourself.. "Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action".. Where does this physical action happen? On their heads??? I have no idea where you got the idea that diatomaceous earth does not work for me, or where diatoms don't kill ants. Diatoms will take out just about anything that walks or crawls providing it is used within it's affective means. Even scorpions...

If you could set up a link to where your info comes from I would gladly read it, and then show you an entire internet full of information that says otherwise.. Perhaps it is you that used it incorrectly?

 

[THE PABLOS]

I'm experimenting with Willow tea....cut some fresh Willow branches...sucker branches....piece them up....place in a bucket of RO water...let them soak a couple days. After the 1st day of soaking...they will be soft...scrape the bark off with a knife...but leave the bark in the bucket. I've been using the same branches....just keep adding more water

I'm using it in a drench and in a foliar spray....I don't measure anything out...just cut the tea with RO water as I need it.

Willow contains Salicylic acid (found in aspirin) and is a natural rooting agent.

Anyway....root aphids (threat of) are pretty much a constant....and I refuse to dump shit loads of money into all the different concoctions sold to deal with them. I accept that I must deal with them....as a matter of routine.

I've only been experimenting with the Willow tea for a couple weeks...but so far...seems to be working. Cost me nothing but some time.

*you must be careful with the doses of Willow tea...like anything else....go light....watch plant reactions. I don't PH it.

**there are a few recent pix in the thread attached to my sig...of what I'm speaking about

***I make no claims to Willow tea working for the masses...just what I'm experimenting with and my observations. I suffer white fly...root aphids...thrips....and I manage to keep them in check for the most part...without all the commercial products.

****I don't believe in "bug free" gardens

Maybe I'm full of shit...........................

 

[Ground Up]

UP Date.. well every thing is pretty much TOASTED.......... i havnt seen any flyers, or knuckleheads crawling around... im sure the two week olds i treated are garbage , i have flushing for three days since Dday, but there pretty unhappy. Ill Give them one or two more days , then ill trash them. Does any one know a good organic detourant..? ill try anything at this point!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Hammerhead]

Good luck with what ever you use ...

NVTHIS
i thought the post that read it did not work was yours sorry.. IME it works way better on soft body insects.. I cant find any info that says it attacks the joints. I do see the info where it scapes off the waxy coating. Nothing about it attacking the joints.. Anyway Im done you have a great day..

How does it work?
To insects DE is a lethal dust with microscopic razor sharp edges. These sharp edges cut through the insect's protective covering drying it out and killing them when they are either dusted with DE or if it applied as a wettable powder spray. If they ingest the DE it will shred their insides.

http://www.ghorganics.com/DiatomaceousEarth.html

 

[Relentless]

Hmm, maybe they were resistant to bayers .. ill keep that in mind if bayers doesnt work one day. thx!

And I've read, but damn if I can find it again, that it's a myth that DE causes bugs to dessicate to death. <shrug> I don't know, but I still use it in my gardens. It's just never been effective against root aphids for me.


And I'm sitting here telling folks that it was the first product I tried (3x), and I had to move to Triazicide because it didn't work.

I truly believe that we're dealing with different groups of pests here, even though they're all root aphids.

I read of people who get complete kill rates using Bayer T&S, when I didn't, even using it at 30mls/gallon and flooding my tables for several hours at a time (I like the flooding technique because it disallows the fliers a few more hiding places, plus it seriously got the media well saturated, no missed spots). I got complete kill rate using 2 Tx's of Triazicide, but I know others who saw little effect. I know others who've gotten good results using Botanigard, and yet others still who said it pissed off their RAs.

This was after trying Mosquito Dunks, Dipel, and some other Bt+ (subspecies) product that did nothing. Oh, and SM-90, which is supposed to be great for dealing with FGs. I love how it smells either way.

Of course, a huge part of the problem, for me at least, was that I flat out refused to accept the idea that the flying bugs I was seeing were anything other than fungus gnats. That was a huge mistake on my part, and it reminds me to keep my mind open.

 

[ShortStackz]

^ya, Ive used bayer at about 3-5ml per galllon on rockwool, one watering & the things were gone.

 

[xmobotx]

Ca and Si strengthen the plant to resist pest attacks

salycilic {aspirin/willow} will help the plant recover from damage

amend your soil w/ NSM and DE and u prob wont have any bugs; a top dress w/ the DE will take advantage of the "shards" effect

lavender FPE will control them too

main thing is to have healthy conditions and these are all remedies which support that

leave the poison at the store

 

[justwatchin]

I tried to take pics of the differnce with a perlite topping preventing them form inocculating the new medium but the little bastards are so small my camera is not really capturing the difference.

i found root aphids on one of my sticky traps around 2 weeks ago, my OGxChems that i put into veg were seriously wilted, yellowing, and looking like crap...

i hit them with the following

1st dose
merit and SNS203 combo package

2nd dose 3 days later
Bayer imid + liquid karma, big bloom, h202, great white...

3rd dose 3 days later
another merit SNS203 with some PBP organic bloom nutrients...

i also hit with dynagrow foliar...

plants responded nicely, they are regaining green color and have stopped wilting...

i have not found a single winged root aphid in any of my traps and i set out a bunch....i also did visual check of rootball and did not see any crawling around..crossing my fingers because i flip these to 12/12 tomorrow..

I looked into the SNS203 and saw that its rosemary and clove extract {food grade}. It seems like a very nice product to have around.

Is it possible to make this extract on your own in some sort of foliar tea and root drench?? bc I have tons of that stuff plus bayer in my cupboards.

I think a nice plan of attack on all fronts larvae with the SNS and merit, natural plant defence with the bayer, and a physical barrier to prevent innoculation from flyers with the a DE and perlite combo topping would wipe them out pretty quickly without jerking up the plants too much. I think thats an excellent find Prop

 

[justwatchin]

Well SeaMaiden looks like you were right. I just watered a cut I have in perlite that is looking healthy as hell so they are no symptoms (yet), but after i watered I notice a whole fleet of the little fucks come to the surface. That sucks as I've made multiple post about the perlite being pest free but seems as I was wrong. Doesnt stop them at all just slows them down.

 

[nvthis]

I know some folks use eucalyptus chips to repel fleas... Always wondered if they would work in a potted plant... I know if you look around, they can be found chipped up for pest applications.. Any one ever try?

 

[Nondual]

lavender FPE will control them too

Control or eliminate them? I've heard lavender being good for spider mites but never root aphids. I dunno about this one. The only thing I've ever seen someone report that's worked against these things are hard core chemicals.

 

[Nondual]

How does it work?

To insects DE is a lethal dust with microscopic razor sharp edges. These sharp edges cut through the insect's protective covering drying it out and killing them when they are either dusted with DE or if it applied as a wettable powder spray. If they ingest the DE it will shred their insides.

I remember going through Austin Nevada and they did a lot of hard rock mining in that area. Problem was the miners breathed in a lot of silica dust. It basically had the same effect on their lungs cutting them up and many died by bleeding out in their lungs. DE being basically silica would have the same effect so any time I worked with it always wore a mask.

 

[RetroGrow]

SNS203, lavender, or diatomaceous earth will not kill root aphids.
Merit and Bayer=same thing:Imid. Imid worked for me with a single application. It takes a while as plants have to absorb the imid through the roots and RAs have to eat the root before dying.

 

[Leroy Brown]

SNS203, lavender, or diatomaceous earth will not kill root aphids.
Merit and Bayer=same thing:Imid. Imid worked for me with a single application. It takes a while as plants have to absorb the imid through the roots and RAs have to eat the root before dying.

This. Which is why you should hit them with spectracide triazicide as well. Imid & Triacizide = problem solved.

 

[SeaMaiden]

I know some folks use eucalyptus chips to repel fleas... Always wondered if they would work in a potted plant... I know if you look around, they can be found chipped up for pest applications.. Any one ever try?

No, but can you imagine a solution being so simple? Wouldn't that be wonderful if it worked? Plus, eucalyptus smells so good!

 

[inreplyavalon]

I am using Met52 and my plants are six weeks into flower and headed towards a gram/watt. The imoportant thing is to use it from the beginning, and i use about 3x the recommended dose, because i know i have aphids in my space. I would/will use the recommended dose for at least a year on every plant i grow as a preventative.

 

[louie]

At what rate (ml/gal) are you using Spectracide w/Triazicide?