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Root Aphids pic's

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Guywithoutajeep

...met. I'd share the website so you can obtain it and avoid root aphids forever, but the mods don't want me to.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Uh... ok, so I used the Bayer T&S the first time I tried to treat RAs. It didn't work for shit. I had success with Triazicide, but I know plenty of people who saw absolutely no results.

The first infestation I got was in outdoor PURE PERLITE hempy tubs. So, how's perlite gonna keep you from getting RAs again? How would that work, exactly?

So far the ONLY thing that I've read has a 100% kill rate for RAs (in the root zone, won't do shit for fliers) is the hot water dip. Here's the paper I read, and I've got some virtual acquaintances who tried this on rooted and unrooted clones. The well-rooted clones survived, the unrooted clones did not. I didn't learn of this technique until after I had eradicated mine (with Triazicide, remember, ain't working well for everyone) and so haven't had a chance to try it for myself. But if you've got an active infestation it seems it would be worth the time.
 

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  • Phylloxera in Oregon Grape Vines Biology and Treatment of Planting Stock With Hot Water Dips.pdf
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G

Guywithoutajeep

Uh... ok, so I used the Bayer T&S the first time I tried to treat RAs. It didn't work for shit. I had success with Triazicide, but I know plenty of people who saw absolutely no results.

The first infestation I got was in outdoor PURE PERLITE hempy tubs. So, how's perlite gonna keep you from getting RAs again? How would that work, exactly?

So far the ONLY thing that I've read has a 100% kill rate for RAs (in the root zone, won't do shit for fliers) is the hot water dip. Here's the paper I read, and I've got some virtual acquaintances who tried this on rooted and unrooted clones. The well-rooted clones survived, the unrooted clones did not. I didn't learn of this technique until after I had eradicated mine (with Triazicide, remember, ain't working well for everyone) and so haven't had a chance to try it for myself. But if you've got an active infestation it seems it would be worth the time.

Yes they are weak to heat. Prevention is how you beat them. Put the medium in the oven before use and add Met. Beneficial fungus all the way.
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
Quick ORGANIC method for controlling the flyers & identifying them,
Example, put a full glass of water, arouind the plants, they will eventually land in the water and die then you can also identify your pest, if you have unwanted flying insect guests this will help you keep on top of them without any bullshitz pcides ,,


GOOD LUCK




great tip~!
 

Ground Up

Member
UDATE day 2

UDATE day 2

Day Two......
Little Fockers are still hanging in there... well a few !!.I flooded tables, added recomended dosage in a barrel. Then drenched each pot.. i sparayed all sides of pots, soaked the watering lines and hoses. Sprayed up the walls 6 feet... and under the table on the floor. Burned my clothes, barrel, hose pump gloves.... lol

The pile of aphids i found floating were of mixed sizes... i use coco with a little coco-not mixed in so there are brown dots everywhere, they all look like aphids NOW !!!
 
S

SeaMaiden

They throw their heads back and scoff at B. thuringiensis, including israelensis. I think using it actually pisses them off.
Yes they are weak to heat. Prevention is how you beat them. Put the medium in the oven before use and add Met. Beneficial fungus all the way.
I can't, and won't, put 20' cu of perlite into my good range. Besides, I must assume that the 1,400*F process that's required for making perlite is sufficiently warm to discourage them.

There was no way to prevent them in the scenario when I first experienced them. I needed to know what they were in the first place, instead of just assuming that they were some kind of Super Gnat. Had I realized what I was up against I would have prevented a lot of heartache, trouble, and saved myself a good 12lbs of product.
 
G

Guywithoutajeep

They throw their heads back and scoff at B. thuringiensis, including israelensis. I think using it actually pisses them off.

I can't, and won't, put 20' cu of perlite into my good range. Besides, I must assume that the 1,400*F process that's required for making perlite is sufficiently warm to discourage them.

There was no way to prevent them in the scenario when I first experienced them. I needed to know what they were in the first place, instead of just assuming that they were some kind of Super Gnat. Had I realized what I was up against I would have prevented a lot of heartache, trouble, and saved myself a good 12lbs of product.

Do they deliver the perlite to you at 1400F? Surely it sits in a warehouse among hundreds of lbs of other perlite, coco, and soil where its likely that it cooled down to room temperature and picked up eggs.

Also, you missed me on the Met. It kills them. I've had root aphids for years. Everything you've heard of I've tried and know all about. I'm providing you with the preventative, but if you want to be a smartass then thats fine with me. Fuck it, this forum fucking blows anyways and it's full of people who don't know what they're doing.
 
G

Guywithoutajeep

Find me on T.H.C.F.A.R.M.E.R. username Nachoconqueso and I can help with root aphids. I'm off this site permanently as there's too many terrible, arrogant, misinformed people here.
 

justwatchin

Member
I'll take pics tonight of the two different root zones. I have a cut in pure perlite that is not infected. I don't know how you would prevent an infection of those hard to kill bastards outdoors honestly, with so much area to spread in the surrounding soil. But as said a pic and a thousand words. The dry layer of perlite doesn't stop it if its already infected, but it does stop them from inoculation the new coco. Its not a theory its something I've done.

Ya nondual cloning them out of existence and keeping clean definitely works.
 
S

SeaMaiden

It was and has been my pure organic, soil-food-web locations that save my ass, every time. I can't explain it, but that is what I've observed. Just a 100' or so away from the perlite hempy tubs that were infected I had my regular raised bed, down by the veggie garden. Not a hiccup, not a thing infesting them, let alone stopping bud growth. It's been suggested to me that the Brix levels of the different grows play a role, could be any number of variables.
Do they deliver the perlite to you at 1400F? Surely it sits in a warehouse among hundreds of lbs of other perlite, coco, and soil where its likely that it cooled down to room temperature and picked up eggs.

Also, you missed me on the Met. It kills them. I've had root aphids for years. Everything you've heard of I've tried and know all about. I'm providing you with the preventative, but if you want to be a smartass then thats fine with me. Fuck it, this forum fucking blows anyways and it's full of people who don't know what they're doing.
Huh? How was that response being a smart-ass?

I haven't missed anyone on the Met, but I've also read the ag papers/research results on it, and as with Bt, Bti, single-site mode 'cides', there's a really excellent chance that by relying on that folks are going to end up selecting out for resistant RAs.

I'd ask you for a credible explanation of how and why root aphids are going to infest bags of inert material, but it seems you no longer wish to participate in any kind of conversation that doesn't go 100% your way. If asking valid questions offends you, then be offended.

:wave:
 

Relentless

Active member
Veteran
Im telling ya guys. get the real deal bayers advanced complete insect killer.. hit em with a tblspoon 1 time and they are gone. i know its a heavy dose but i get em right from the beginning.. dont want to be producing resistant root aphids..
 
N

Nondual

I'm off this site permanently as there's too many terrible, arrogant, misinformed people here.
That's ridiculous and a cop-out.

...met. I'd share the website so you can obtain it and avoid root aphids forever, but the mods don't want me to.
You easily could have shared any info here. Pretty lame.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
i found root aphids on one of my sticky traps around 2 weeks ago, my OGxChems that i put into veg were seriously wilted, yellowing, and looking like crap...

i hit them with the following

1st dose
merit and SNS203 combo package

2nd dose 3 days later
Bayer imid + liquid karma, big bloom, h202, great white...

3rd dose 3 days later
another merit SNS203 with some PBP organic bloom nutrients...

i also hit with dynagrow foliar...

plants responded nicely, they are regaining green color and have stopped wilting...

i have not found a single winged root aphid in any of my traps and i set out a bunch....i also did visual check of rootball and did not see any crawling around..crossing my fingers because i flip these to 12/12 tomorrow..
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
also, im pretty sure i had root aphids last run because i caught a bunch of flying things in my traps, some of the root aphids i found were probably from last run...i assumed they were fungus gnats..

but i was able to pull a nice yield and even pretty good quality stuff with them....yield did suffer but i still got 18ozs per 1kw 4x4 area. the RA hit 2 plants really hard and they yellowed up terribly, but surprisingly other plants in the same tray were spared and came out top notch quality....the plants the RA hit still frosted up nicely and has nice taste, just has very yellow leaves...will make some nice BHO..
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Diatomaceous earth only works on soft body insects. Make sure you have a thick enough layer down..

By the way.. The outside of an ant's body is covered with a hard armor.
 
Last edited:

nvthis

Member
Diatomaceous earth only works on soft body insects. Make sure you have a thick enough layer down..

By the way.. The outside of an ant's body is covered with a hard armor.

Yeah, but that's not how diatoms work. It doesn't matter if they have soft bodies or not, as it attacks the joints. Borax acts in a similar manner and scrapes away the waxy coating of a bugs exo-skeleton. This inhibits the bugs ability to hold water and they dehydrate to death...
 
S

SeaMaiden

And I've read, but damn if I can find it again, that it's a myth that DE causes bugs to dessicate to death. <shrug> I don't know, but I still use it in my gardens. It's just never been effective against root aphids for me.

Im telling ya guys. get the real deal bayers advanced complete insect killer.. hit em with a tblspoon 1 time and they are gone. i know its a heavy dose but i get em right from the beginning.. dont want to be producing resistant root aphids..
And I'm sitting here telling folks that it was the first product I tried (3x), and I had to move to Triazicide because it didn't work.

I truly believe that we're dealing with different groups of pests here, even though they're all root aphids.

I read of people who get complete kill rates using Bayer T&S, when I didn't, even using it at 30mls/gallon and flooding my tables for several hours at a time (I like the flooding technique because it disallows the fliers a few more hiding places, plus it seriously got the media well saturated, no missed spots). I got complete kill rate using 2 Tx's of Triazicide, but I know others who saw little effect. I know others who've gotten good results using Botanigard, and yet others still who said it pissed off their RAs.

This was after trying Mosquito Dunks, Dipel, and some other Bt+ (subspecies) product that did nothing. Oh, and SM-90, which is supposed to be great for dealing with FGs. I love how it smells either way.

Of course, a huge part of the problem, for me at least, was that I flat out refused to accept the idea that the flying bugs I was seeing were anything other than fungus gnats. That was a huge mistake on my part, and it reminds me to keep my mind open.
 

Ground Up

Member
Sea maiden,
maybe the flood was the issue, you would have to buy 25 bottles to flood a table at 30ml a gal. I plugged up the exit drains and drenched each pot ,over and over till i was satisfied everything was wet and paying the price for showing up!!! , my tables are huge ,but i also did it on my small 4x8 too, worked the same....
Day three ,so far nothing is crawling,moving ,flying by!!
 

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