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Revival of the Ultimate Sativa GROW Thread

G

Guest

i have my hybrid in a 2L bottle and i left it in there to purposely try this rootbinding technique but i am experiencing leaves dying (looks most like N def) even with heavyfeedings of veg nutes and flower nutes. Can rootbinding encourage the plant to kill off some its fans and lower leaf sets?
 

motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
yup. they'll yellow and try to die. Foliar helps them. they must be pretty root bound though huh? how big is your girl? the yellowing doesn't really matter though because you're trying to devote energy into top bud growth anyway, so that part of the canopy shouldn't even really be getting much light anway. if you're lst'ing it could be a bigger problem I suppose. I never thought of that.

if your girls aren't that big check the drainage of your soil. soil that stays damp at the core of the root mass can make a very similiar symptom happen.

I grew SOG and trim off almost all lower growth below the main cola to get massive top nugs so yellowing lower growth never bothered me. I was cuttin it off as the plant grew anyway.

We'll have to ask herbalistic how much he experiences it as a problem with lst'ing.
 
G

Guest

from the top of the soil to the top of her canopy is probably like 30" and she inst under the influence of major LST, just one tie down, and she is severly rootbound, however i know she drys out her soil completely because of how light it is.
 

motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
hmmn. thats pretty small to be going yellow from it. but plants perform different I guess. It's around the size they go yellow I suppose. I usually don't keep them in 2ltrs unless they are really sun seekers. in general I'd use a half gal.

but around 3ft is when I'd expect them to start going yellow leaves in a 2ltr.

should be taking place in slow mo right? basically looks like a plant running low on slow relase organics? just very slowly going yellow two sets at a time?
 
G

Guest

if her main cola wasnt bent over she would stand at about 40'' tall, but her canopy is even at about 30-32'' up off the soil
 

newbgrow

Active member
Thanks motaco, you more than answered my questions. So your idea is to start 12/12 from seed just to find a mother, then grow from clone from then on? That is a very good idea.

I think your method would also work for creating f2's or making seed, since yield doesn't matter as much in this kind of grow. I don't think I'll be able to afford space and money for 100's of seeds, but what do you think about 30-50 seeds, keep only the best males, and keep only the seeds from the best females?

You seem to be fairly adamant from the other thread about 12/12 from seed throwing up 0.5g plants... perhaps with indicas moreso than sativas... this doesn't happen with clones, right? Do you think maybe 1wk veg with seeds will offset the difference between that and a clone?

It's not that I have a problem with clones I'll probably take some when I grow, but at the end of the day I'd like to have a 'backup'... in seed form. I know that's not exactly a good reason -- let's just call it an irrational newb fetish. :) One seed run for each strain isn't going to break the bank anyway IMO, since I don't smoke that much, anyway.
 
G

Guest

I dont think that this hybrid girl takes kindly to rootbinding, she is killing off what i feel like is too many leaves, she seems to be flowering very nicely and uninhibited by it, but i dont think her clone in the flower room will remain in its 2L bottle through flowering as this one has.....she has a nice lemony smell to her, it would be nice for that smell to be the taste accompanying a sativa buzz journey through my brain.
 

Highlighter

ring that bell
ICMag Donor
Veteran
krone, how long has she been flowering? It seems that it's a good thing to transplant/doublecan the rootbound plant 2 wks into flowering, or after you see an ebb in the initial stretch.
Raco's pic on the last pg is a good deminstration of that. (rootbound colombian)

Good luck!
 
G

Guest

i was thinking about transplanting into a large container but i dont want to stunt bud growth by forcing the expansion of the roots by transplanting, but i dont want it to continue to die either.... im conflicted, can you offer any advice that could sway me one way or the other??


edit: she is 40 days into 12/12 so about 23-30 days of flower
 
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Highlighter

ring that bell
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Can't really advise in a confidant manner, esp @ 40 days. Think it's an intuitive thing of living w/ and knowing the plant.
Maybe keeping it as is, like you say, and doing things different w/ the clone.
Then you'll be seeing two different end results, and be learning from it.
Hopefully other's will chime in.
 

hardhat22

Member
I always just trim the dead leaves off as they yellow.But this seems to make the bud leaves put on more size.Rkrone,I have been in your exact situation and solved it by cutting the bottle away without cutting/disturbing the roots and placing it in the appropriate sized pot.That has only happened a couple of times with some extremely long flowering bagseed plants.I didn't have any stunting,just a burst of new growth and leafy buds.Good Luck
Peace
 

motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
you guys are using the 2ltrs to fit in the box better?

Like I said I use 2ltrs on crazy stretchy ones. so the lower growth dying is never faster than the top growing.

@MT
for plants like a satori I'd reccomend a half gal. it shouldn't reach for the skies too bad. did you pluck those leaves or did they fall off?

But remember this is part of that "organic soil hydoponics" I was talking about. They are going to need nute feedings almost daily once they are root bound. They'll eat all the nutes in the soil in no time if they are being supplemented constantly with teas. That satori doesn't look big enough to be going yellow from root bound. it looks like it just ran out of nutes. Once it is out of slow release ferts you'll have to feed it larger tea doses than when it was just supplementing. It is the primary fert now

@rkone. I'd go ahead and put it in a wider pot if you have room in the box. I personally never experienced transplant shock too bad. I've always experienced growth spurts actually when I transplant. Most people aren't as cavalier about transplanting as I am though. It never bothered me much so maybe ask a few more people. hybrids will eat more nutes than a pure sat though.

edit- hardhat beat me to it but basically we do transplants the same and have the same results. I think transplants stunt when people do rough transplants or into giant larger sized pots where most energy goes into root growth.
 
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G

Guest

alright then, that solves it, i will be transplanting her into a 1 gal pot (i will just be cutting off the bottom of her 2L bottle and placing her in) and the clone will be transplanted when ready into something similar. thanks for all the tips guys :D


luckily i have the room to do this, if i was maxed out on space i would be at a loss :rasta:
 
G

Guest

Great to see a dedicated Sat thread!!!

New here - am Caveman @ Skunk & UTG. Been growin Revs' Cherry Thai
and Black Forrest for a year or so. First from seed, now clones.
Grew em to 7+ foot and have the Cherry Thai down to 2 foot
little monsters.

A few pix from the first seed run - all organic soil in 3 gal pots.
Vegged w/ a 400MH, Flowered with 2x400w HPS.
Liquid Compost, Alaska Midnite Sun & Alaska MoreBloom are my only ferts.

I prefer a well done Sat over ANYTHING - that strong ethereal stone.

Sativaaaaaaaah!

1st pic is Black Forrest - almost done, ran em to 16 weeks flower and had
a inscence like stink, w/ a bit of dried fruit. One pheno, very fluffy!

2nd is one of 2 Cherry Thai phenomes I run - very tight buds, done right and cured for 5+ weeks it tastes like fruitcake.


 
G

Guest

I'm getting the hang of posting now - two more pix from the Cherry Thai seed run. Two phenomes, one very fluffy, the other a tight, dense bud.
These ran 12 weeks + from seed, 30inch buds. The clones run bout 10 weeks
and I finally have the height under control.


 

Pimpslapped

Member
Nice girls there Cave. Welcome to IC... if you haven't viewed it already, there's also the Revival of the Ultimate Sativa Thread in the Strains and Hybrids forum though it has gotten to ridiculous lengths there is a lot of good info in it. Sounds like it might be up your alley.
 
G

Guest

did the transplant into the 1 gal pots, the big bitch was sooo fucking rootbound it was crazy so i watered with some heavy tiger bloom and now im hoping for the best.
 

motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
@rkone= lol. yeah. no joke. you're riding the razors edge. Like in spaceballs "ludacris speed". VERY good learning process though. you're getting the hang of it rk. congrats. you'll be able to handle pretty much anything soon enough.

@newb grow. no one week of veg probably won't help too much. what people tend to do though is clones don't need hardly any light to root. so people put a bunch of them under fluros until the root mass is big, then put the clone to veg for one week and flower. and they get quite nice results yes. one week or two week veg will get you hawaiian style plants usually. small low yield. very typical of winter hawaiian or jamaican pot.

winter 04 crop from user "hawaiian grown" for example





@the community. So what is you guys general rule of thumb for yellow leaves? I wait until mine are YELLOW to cut them. I trim the dead yellow growth off as it goes like you do on clones. but I leave the leaf. I consider them sacrificial. I find when I pull them off when they are still green it just makes the next two sets go yellow in their place. When I let the leaves continue to go yellow I find I get alot more buffer zone for nute loss as they are eating those leaves first. I see others pluck them when they start going yellow? I was just wondering. I wait until nothing but the veins leading to the stem of the leaf are light green. They'll usually almost fall off to the touch.
 
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Ganico

Active member
Veteran
Does anyone here use closer to outdoor light cycles in a cab? Like 15/9 Veg, then tapering it down to 12/12

I also am interested in dropping temps during that time too. Maybe just have the exhaust fan on a speed controller so you can turn it up as you go to cool it off

Drop temps and light cycles to somewhat match your local climate. Be good for working on sativas to finish in time outdoors, and getting long flowering strains to finish quicker.

Cause y'all know them sativas that take say 10 weeks outdoors, but 17 weeks indoors? hahaha.

But anyway, that seems pretty straight forward to me, could even do it in a tiny little 150w cab
 
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