Repuk HML/Coco/Blumat understairs stealth micro grow

[repuk]

Hey hempfield! glad to see you here man!

Well I read some negative reviews about the 2046, vicious rumours around some well-known spanish forums are saying its a Neville Haze S1 obtained from a cut...

Anyway I think it will be interesting to see the change not only in overall wattage, but in lumens and intensity, hopefully I'll see that kind of light intensity "residue" in form of trichomes I see when people like Bueno_Time post ladies full-shots; my actual setup, even having being upgraded with 65W of philips Luxeon Rebel ES 660nm Deep Red LED (that help a lot in stop stretching) I don't see that trich-covering pattern on my ladies along with that kind of finish and ripen, obvious even in the pics.

I hope to bring that with the CXA's, that's my goal. Oh men they came in an AB tray and thought maybe mouser sent ABs! but no, Bueno_Time inspected his (has both bins), mine are clearly Z2.

 

[repuk]

Details of the new COB rig I'm adding:

4x Cree CXA3070 3000K COBs Z2 bin in series, driven by a single Meanwell HLG-185H-C1050A

Each COB will be first fixed just by arctic alumina or thermal silicon to Arctic Alpine 11 GT R2 coolers and tested at the intended operating point starting from 1050mA, aiming for temps equal or below 50C. If the coolers prove to be valid then the COBs will be fixed permanently by thermal epoxy to the Coolers.

I'm using these as I couldn't find the original Alpine, these are rated for 75W while the originals were rated for 100W.

A shame original Intel i7 (RCFH7-1156) coolers "center" are round, while the COBs are square, as I can get these for 5€ each new... liked Alpine's better as it seems to have more aluminum "mass".

For operation point after tinkering with this useful cree calculator I think it will be between 900-1050mA, that means 31W-37W LED dissipation, a good ballpark figure aiming for half the max cooling performance of the Alpine R2: each COB will be providing 4200-4600 lumens, that would mean an addition of 18000 lumens to the cab, almost doubling it. But what I think most important, providing more focused intensity.

 

[repuk]

Well it seems I got lucky and got AB bin COBs so the revised figures will be 4800-5250 lumens per COB, up to 21000 additional lumens... more than doubling them.

 

[chefbudz]

this is very impressive what are your total watts and lumen s going to be?

 

[repuk]

hi, chezbudz, welcome to this grow!

There were 210W Already, 150W from the first all-white setup, plus 60W in deep reds. I don't remember the exact figure but I'd say in terms of lumens it was below 18000.

I'm adding 140W with the COBs, plus 21000 lumens more.

So 350W, 36000-39000 lumens total.

 

[chefbudz]

wow their some bad ass led's and blu mats iam so jealous lol

 

[omgwt]

Great read. I learned some things about the blumats I haven't done in my setup (and I did get air bubbles because of it, hell I even quit the blumats a few weeks into flowering because either they drained the entire res in a few hours flooding my tent or they barely did anything.. Perhaps because of my impatience to set them up properly but yeah. I'm gonna give them another chance tho, with the modifications similar to your grow!

Really impressive gpw on those girls from the all white grow too.

Looking forward to see how the added lights make a difference!

Oh yeah, forgot to ask - do you use a flood tray or something or did you configure the blumats to not overflood those small pot trays (and if so, how the hell did you achieve that? )

 

[omgwt]

Another question flew by me - How does the ph/ec meter work, where did you buy it and for how much?

 

[Jhonny]

Hey hempfield! glad to see you here man!

Well I read some negative reviews about the 2046, vicious rumours around some well-known spanish forums are saying its a Nevile Haze S1 obtained from a cut...

Hi repuk, I don't think it's a NH S1. One of the 2046 phenos I have seen growing in my friends garden, smelled and tasted like a Kali Mist (or an old Jack Herer), just not as fruity.
In my opinion, it's for sure not only a Haze x NL cross. The smell has some hints of something like Skunk, exactly like the Kali Mist.
75days Flowering time (from clone 65 days)
This pheno was not so strong, but had a very happy clear high. Good for daytime.

The NH pheno had very long fluffy green colas. A very Hazy NH Pheno. Taste is old school. Not fruity and not citric at all; smells like a mix of A5 I had 10 years ago and pure green haze I had 25 years ago.
High is very potent, clear, very very trippy, very aphrodisiac, not cerebral and is relaxing with nor paranoia, nor anxiety.. The effect lasts at least 3h on an experienced daily user.

But flowering time was 165days!! ... and could have gone longer ...

One of the best highs I had. Strong like a haze hybrid and clean like a landrace sativa.

I must say that both phenos seem to have medicinal potential. My friend who suffers from anxiety, wanted to test a "real" 100% sativa strain and he is very happy with his 2046.


(taste and effect were after 5+ month cure)

 

[repuk]

thanks a lot for your insights Jhonny!

Sadly I lost both seedlings and that pissed me so much I haven't yet installed the COBs.

That sounds exactly the kind of sativas I'm looking for. So Sativas need more curing time to develop their potential, 5 months curing!?

omgwt, I don't use any flood tray, I setup the blumats so that pots doesn't have any runoff or just a slight one.

My advice: blumats work by the osmosis effect, to set them up and forget you need to setup the humidity you want the pots to be kept at as your starting point (provided you're not affected by clogging, either by air bubbles or sediments clogs):

Fill the sensors, close them, and let them sit submerged in water overnight; the ceramic material is porous and you need it to be "loaded". Keep in mind that when the pot dries too much, water is "stolen" from inside the blumat rendering the sensor useless (causing the flooding): they must be kept filled to work.

1.- Hand water the pot, to an optimal point (having runoff and then wait until it stops to drip in coco)

2.- Plug the sensors in the pots, and adjust dripping so that it drips slowly: about a drop after two seconds, then turn the knob back a 1/4 turn. You're adjusting the slowest dripping point here; let them alone and check back after an hour, backing a 1/4 knob turn if there's any runoff. Check a couple more times.

3.- The next day, check the pots (I usually hand weight) for optimal humidity, opening the blumat knob in 1/8 turn steps if needed: then repeat the same checking process: wait an hour, check for runoff etc.

Then I usually can forget about them as long as I don't let the reservoir to go completely empty.

 

[Dion]

how did you end up with ab bins?
also how can you tell what binning you get? by looking at the chiP? mine just say cree...

 

[StevenJennings]

I just wanna say hell yeah man, amd im only at the end of page 1. Your builds are a hell of a lot cleaner than mine. Ill keep readimg before i ask any questions. Lol

 

[StevenJennings]

It should def say what bin you are gettimg on the site you get em from holmes. They are not located on the led itself.

 

[repuk]

Welcome Steven!

I'm dialing out the new grow operation (3d take), and boy... it takes time and patience to "master" the scenario!

I will be using the COBs on active CPU heatsinks to supplement the 400W HPS, to reach 600W. As the driver is dimmable, I'll be adjusting the LED intensity depending on temperature by using mycodo.

Will post pics of them, due to the purpose I'm going to deploy them, the binning no longer worries me too much.

 

[repuk]

I sourced them from Mouser, this is on the invoice:

Mouser REF: Manufacturer. N.o: Desc.:
941-CXA30700N00Z230F CXA3070-0000-000N00Z230F High Power LED Warm White, 3000K 8646lm, 1.9A, 80CRI
TARIC:8541401000 ECCN:EAR99 COO:CN

Points to Z2?

BTW, loved your barrel build! with suitable low power LEDs would make a great "Mother Keeping Capsule"! Though I think would be even greater for those wanting to flower stealthy using COB w/ external heatsink as you designed!

 

[StevenJennings]

Thanks man. I get those barrels from work and had been thinking about sticking a few in the garage or something after i make it a little more stealth. Hide wires, and the light being emitted. Man i got all these drivers laying around to power a cob at anywhere from 1050 to 1750 ma and had id known id be setting up more stuff i prob wouldve just went for the more costly driver. Ill be following your grows man. When i rrach 50 posts ill start a thread or two with my closet and other past grows. I will say that im a firm believer in the reds royal blue and various whites. Since i added my bar ive noticed less stretch and frostier content. Not tht the 3500k cobs dont produce quality. I can def tell a difference. I been thinking about doing a deep red puck or something to see if the emerson effect is substantial for me.

 

[repuk]

Do you use hoods for the COBs? Are they a must?

I definitely noticed a difference when I added reds. All ladies did show clear preference for the WW XM-Ls, positioning their colas underneath.

Problem with LEDs is the sativas I'm keen on all need lots of UV to properly develop their nugs, that's the reason I went back to HPS as main light source.

Don't get me wrong, they did yield really aromatic, and potent (7 over 10) nugs, with the HML, I got my gram per watt, but it was clear the nugs weren't fully developed. Again, I was using 10W LEDs, not COBs.

Something is clear for me at least; coco + LEDs produce the most aromatic nugs.