I've never been a fan of kitchen sink but I do use essential oils individually.
My issue is they know it fails to control some pests advertised, but sell it up anyway. If plants acclimatized to pesticides, The One could drink Kontos like feed.
Recycled/Reused/ Reammended/Reloaded/ Reupped/Retarded
- Thread starter Lapides
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I've never been a fan of kitchen sink but I do use essential oils individually.
My issue is they know it fails to control some pests advertised, but sell it up anyway. If plants acclimatized to pesticides, The One could drink Kontos like feed.
so i have to ask
what individual oils do you use by themselves and at what dosage rates?
since we all is posting in a lapides thread might as well say that upon lapides suggestion and started using stylet oil (horticultural grade mineral oil) and it is far superior to any oil I have used to date.
Pretty much oil kills on coverage and where failure to eradicate occurs it happens because incomplete coverage. This is why people like systemic stuff because you don't have to have complete coverage. With all that said the most effective oil has been stylet but only when I completely cover all vegetation in my gardens with it.
Easy to do if you break everything down to cuts before you pull and then eliminate everything but established cuts and treat them thoroughly.
Pretty much oil kills on coverage and where failure to eradicate occurs it happens because incomplete coverage. This is why people like systemic stuff because you don't have to have complete coverage. With all that said the most effective oil has been stylet but only when I completely cover all vegetation in my gardens with it.
Easy to do if you break everything down to cuts before you pull and then eliminate everything but established cuts and treat them thoroughly.
Dude those buds are epic. I bet you got your hands on some shukajit!
Burnt tips are gone too!
Burnt tips are gone too!
@ 55 days in my garden. Things are starting to fade. Hoping the the mites stay back for the next few weeks.
Gorilla Glue, I thought it was Shire, lost Shire
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LDawg-
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I'm late to the game but what mites are you speaking of? Two spotted spider mites? Weird and Lapides, have you guys ever tried predator mites? I had a lot of success with those, especially in flower when you don't have much in the way of good treatments.
Fire ass looking bud porn too by the way
NICE LAP!
that malawi cross.... HOLY SATIVA BATMAN!!!! what's the nose on her like?
that malawi cross.... HOLY SATIVA BATMAN!!!! what's the nose on her like?
bucketswithsoil
support your local surfboard builder...
damn lapides,looking proper my man....
yeah my mix is a variation on LCs mix
This is how I build a soil, I re-amend with half back minus the GRD and greensand. I add them back every few rounds.
Basically I use LCs mix but interchanged some of the amendments
my mix is pretty much peaterlite:ewc:compost at a ratio 3:1:.5:.5 or 3:1:1 with the last one part being equal parts ewc and compost.
if I where just using EWC I would stick to .5
as far as amendments I use the following per gallon of mix I make using the ratio above
1 tbs blood meal (or fish meal, at times I have used both)
2 tbs bone meal (or fish bone meal, at times I have used both)
1 tbs kelp meal
1 tbs crab meal
1 tbs grd
1 tbs greeensand
1 tbs oyster shell
1tbs gypsum
I use alfalfa and frass as well but I use them sparingly in teas in my veg and in my flowering room at transition.
I keep neem meal/oil on hand but do not use them unless needed, at this point I use them primarily in foliar applications.
I use very little amendments so some amendments like greensand I still have from when I first started dabbling with amendments.
I used to use peat Years ago and moved away from it Why ?? peat is great for chem fertilizing applications ..
If you think about it in one hand you say your making teas an on the other hand peat moss has a ph of 4.0 - 4.4
Fungi and Bacteria thrive in the range of 5 - 8 ph so your fighting with them or there declining 5 fold faster then there reproducing .
with that less plant food.
Peat moss is a piss poor choice. It breaks down too fast, compressing and squeezing air out of the soil, creating an unhealthy condition for plant roots. It also repels Water again not what were really wanting
Organic matter can hold 20 times its weight but in your case
Bone meal , blood meal , crab meal holds nothing only thing giving you any water retention is Kelp meal and the dirt or top soil if your using any?? Clay content .. so again my thought nix the blood meal and replace it with Rabbit shit,, or sheep manure its slow releasing
I would even stay away from Kelp meal May be 50 years ago it was a good choice , But now with the poisons in the oceans ???
which kelp is like a liver, or filter, Filtering all contaminants like metals, Arsenic etc
.
But anyways
The biggest problem with peat moss is that it’s environmentally bankrupt. that is why i stay away from it
Sounds like you got a pretty good Gig going making that kind of money growing
about 9 years ago i was harvesting $ 320,000 from out door crop 16k in amendments 61000 gallons of soil 50 gallon a piece in ground holes by backhoe etc or farm tractor Perks of being a farmer lol
and 16 k for trimmers organic soil to start then agricultural Farm grade synthesized nutrient regiment triple 19 applied 2 times Corn Fertilizer
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Lapides while on the subject of mites, what is your lights on humidity?
I'm late to the game but what mites are you speaking of? Two spotted spider mites? Weird and Lapides, have you guys ever tried predator mites? I had a lot of success with those, especially in flower when you don't have much in the way of good treatments.
Fire ass looking bud porn too by the way
Problem with predator mites is they will not eradicate them, they will start harvesting them.
There not as evil as we would want them to be, Actually there brilliant they will have there feast , then back off let the mites re establish then feast again..
Personally when it comes to insects organic grown or not i do not fuck around.
With 10 applications of some witch brew organic mix .
Pending on the mood i am in haha..
I will either nail them with a class 2 or 3 pesticide , That will fuck them up bad and right now
Dang bro you said you don't want to use kelp because of the poisons in the ocean, but then you will reach for a bottle of poison!
How did the ocean become poisoned in the first place?
I am sure the peeps here will help Lap to beat the spider mites while still maintaining the medicinal integrity of his crop!
How did the ocean become poisoned in the first place?
I am sure the peeps here will help Lap to beat the spider mites while still maintaining the medicinal integrity of his crop!
I tried using Phytoseiulus persimilis. They need humidity above 60% which I thought I could do. I struggled to keep the daytime humidity above 50% during the lights on periods so I don't think they were able to reproduce very well.
In the first few weeks of flowering before any resin shows I will spray JMS Stylet oil on them and it works rather well. I don't ever spray the soil directly and I suspect that mites may be retreating and taking cover in the soil and litter on the surface and then waiting for the last few weeks when the plant isnt really growing anymore to attack it.
It's not a HUGE problem. I don't think I could see any mite damage in any of the pics I posted, but I know they are there and they make me nervous because I know what they can do.
Thankfully my plants are pretty healthy and things aren't as bad as they could be.
LOL, stay away from kelp but blast your plants with a moderate or slightly hazardous chemical. I'm not sure why you're reading and replying to this thread TBH. Maybe you should just keep your comments to yourself around here. From the sound of it we grow NOTHING alike and I don't care much for the information you have been bringing.
Thanks.
In the first few weeks of flowering before any resin shows I will spray JMS Stylet oil on them and it works rather well. I don't ever spray the soil directly and I suspect that mites may be retreating and taking cover in the soil and litter on the surface and then waiting for the last few weeks when the plant isnt really growing anymore to attack it.
It's not a HUGE problem. I don't think I could see any mite damage in any of the pics I posted, but I know they are there and they make me nervous because I know what they can do.
Thankfully my plants are pretty healthy and things aren't as bad as they could be.
LOL, stay away from kelp but blast your plants with a moderate or slightly hazardous chemical. I'm not sure why you're reading and replying to this thread TBH. Maybe you should just keep your comments to yourself around here. From the sound of it we grow NOTHING alike and I don't care much for the information you have been bringing.
Thanks.
IME Mesoseiulus longipes is the most tolerant of dry indoor garden conditions, especially with AC. they can still reproduce in as low as 35--40% rh at 70*F (although they need a bit more humidity as the temp rises).
P. persimilis on the other hand likes 75%+ humidity at 65--80*F, not exactly flower room conditions for most gardens.
N. Californicus is a badass too, and usually much cheaper than the m. longipes. they can stay happy anywhere from 50--80% rh and 60--95*F.
P. persimilis on the other hand likes 75%+ humidity at 65--80*F, not exactly flower room conditions for most gardens.
N. Californicus is a badass too, and usually much cheaper than the m. longipes. they can stay happy anywhere from 50--80% rh and 60--95*F.
I was going to mention californicus as well because supposedly they do very well in hot and dry locations. Along the lines of predator mites backing off and letting the spider mites come back for food reasons..... Have you looked into dusting pollen onto your fan leaves for the predators to feed on? Apparently they can eat pollen and will have another food source instead of just the spider mites. I haven't looked into the science behind it yet but have tried to incorporate it into my IPM program to keep the good guys around.
Essential and heavy oils
Neem 0.5-1.0%
Rosemary 0.5-2.0%
Peppermint 0.1-0.2%
Mineral 1%
I am unsure on the efficacy but I have used the mineral oil to extract oil soluble compounds from garlic and hot peppers, roughly 1:2 oil
lant matter. A good use for peppers generally considered too hot for eating.Weird is correct. Mineral oil is highly underrated in the cannabis community and yet a staple when growing many other crops for over a century.
Highly phytotoxic (re: application and light exposure). Light, unscented oils with a low unsulphonated residue are the least toxic. Heavier oils are used on perennials after leaf drop.
And is cheap as balls. I would research more if interested. I (me) would write a more comprehensive post but this phone makes tapping out even a few lines a real pain in the fucking ass.
But I am perpetually broke and have earmarked every dollar I will make in the next few monthes. Unless it stops phoneporning I'll be eating this bowl of shit for awhile.
