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REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL
- Thread starter REALSTYLES
- Start date
G
Guest
Speaking about the driver I prefer the B version over the A version but i've never understood which potentiometer buy... 1-10vdc or pwm or 10-100Kohm resistance? the cob can turn on at 140mA or 350mA is the minimum current? if someone could explain it would be awesome
REALSTYLES
Member
Cool shit and great work on the lightsAnd finally my cobs on workmore pics on my album
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=65364&pictureid=1552521View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=65364&pictureid=1552527View Image
Thanks to Koondense, Dion and Realstyles!!
I second that. I'm not so sure how it works either. Any experts willing to chime in? THanks for all the knowledge thus far fellas
-DZ
Wire in 10k resistor in before a 100k pot, there's your 10-100k resistence.
Pick-a-pot:
http://www.jameco.com/1/3/potentiometer-100k
Pick-a-pot:
http://www.jameco.com/1/3/potentiometer-100k
Dion
Active member
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7300931&postcount=686
i explained this over here in my thread recently
you can also use the 0-10v dimming with a 10k pot then you would rig it in paralel to your fan driver
feel free to drop in
REALSTYLES
Member
That looks familiar lol great work Asylum, now you're gonna be hooked lol I see you building 10 more lights like I did lol.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7300931&postcount=686
i explained this over here in my thread recently
you can also use the 0-10v dimming with a 10k pot then you would rig it in paralel to your fan driver
feel free to drop in
THANK you Dion.. your contributions are noted and appreciated friend.
So I have been running the 8 CXBs for a week now and I'm loving them. Dramatic temperature difference in my grow room. Without any AC and my vent fan turned off my room is 64degrees . When I plug in my Mars 1200, the room temp climbed to 88 degrees. Screw Mars. My summertime heat issues are done!! I run a stealth op where I cannot have large fans making noise, and my 400w HPS was tough to keep cool while also being quiet. I bought the Mars 1200 thinking It would make less heat.....wrong.... it's noisy too. So my last crop suffered.
This Cree panel is damn near silent. It could be in a closet 3 feet from you and you would have no idea.
Powerful, silent, runs cool, less electricity, quality buds!
TOTALLY worth it for my situation.
. When I plug in my Mars 1200, the room temp climbed to 88 degrees. Screw Mars. My summertime heat issues are done!! I run a stealth op where I cannot have large fans making noise, and my 400w HPS was tough to keep cool while also being quiet. I bought the Mars 1200 thinking It would make less heat.....wrong.... it's noisy too. So my last crop suffered.This Cree panel is damn near silent. It could be in a closet 3 feet from you and you would have no idea.
Powerful, silent, runs cool, less electricity, quality buds!
TOTALLY worth it for my situation.
Dion
Active member
no not even close
@ "50w"(assuming u mean 36v version @ 1400mA with a Tj of 50c is 48.85W)the efficency is 56.34%=27.52 Par watts
@ 1750mA= they are 55.2% efficient and 61.5w =33.95 par watts
thats an increase of 24% ppfd for a very acceptable efficiency sacrifice
thank you REALSTYLES for taking the time to make this post for the community, im a complete noob and became inspired by reading up on your work and threads for the past few weeks, both on DIY systems and now on LED lighting, its an honor to walk in your footsteps as i begin my approach into ganja farming. 
im almost ready to buy parts and begin on a 24" panel, but would be grateful for your help and advice on a few of my amateur questions :
1. noted you mentioned HLG-185-1050 in your earlier post, however im coming across HLG-240-1750/2100 in my research, what is your opinion on using this higher watt/amp drivers to give some extra watts to the 3 or 4 cree cobs, maybe sending 60w/cob instead of 40w/cob ?
2. according to the cree product characterization tool, it seems the cxb3070 36v obtains highest marks and efficiency when driven by the 1750, 2100a 240 mean well drivers, with the cxb3590 36v trailing closely.
however, the V goes slightly over 36v, 37.16. is the overrage in acceptable limit or would i need a dimmer now?
3. regarding making holes in the heatsink you ordered, can this be done with a 20V hand drill or do you recommend a drill press? what type of bit/material are you using, (i.e., mason, carbide or flat/bright? also, im a bit stuck on how to hang the fixture afterwards, would really appreciate some of your creativity and advice since im not too experience with drilling and grow room construction
4. how is your heat dissipation going so far with the thermaltake ? do you have any new recommendations on cob placement or cooling after the first few months of use?
many thanks to you again for shining your bright for us all
hat goes off to you my friend
one love
im almost ready to buy parts and begin on a 24" panel, but would be grateful for your help and advice on a few of my amateur questions :
1. noted you mentioned HLG-185-1050 in your earlier post, however im coming across HLG-240-1750/2100 in my research, what is your opinion on using this higher watt/amp drivers to give some extra watts to the 3 or 4 cree cobs, maybe sending 60w/cob instead of 40w/cob ?
2. according to the cree product characterization tool, it seems the cxb3070 36v obtains highest marks and efficiency when driven by the 1750, 2100a 240 mean well drivers, with the cxb3590 36v trailing closely.
however, the V goes slightly over 36v, 37.16. is the overrage in acceptable limit or would i need a dimmer now?
3. regarding making holes in the heatsink you ordered, can this be done with a 20V hand drill or do you recommend a drill press? what type of bit/material are you using, (i.e., mason, carbide or flat/bright? also, im a bit stuck on how to hang the fixture afterwards, would really appreciate some of your creativity and advice since im not too experience with drilling and grow room construction
4. how is your heat dissipation going so far with the thermaltake ? do you have any new recommendations on cob placement or cooling after the first few months of use?
many thanks to you again for shining your bright for us all
hat goes off to you my friend
one love
jikko77
Active member
3. you can drill with a hand drill, but a colon, or drill press will give a better controll overall.
here a pic of the (mine) worse one:
and if i may give you a pice of advice, check the holder you're getting, avoid this one, they need a double drill, one for position and one for fix the holder.
try to get the same as real.
2. belive it or not, there is someone who is running a cxa at 3.6A and 42.3-42.4v, no isn't a typo, it's a 3.6A for real:
"Ho due sistemi/muletto COB4 e COB9,i due prototipi iniziali in sintesi,tenuti da 14 mesi in stress-test, 24 ore su 24 accesi,
fuori specifica appositamente, con montati CXA 3070 tenuti a 3.6Amp e temperature veramente al limite, forse folli."
and
"ne abbiamo selezionati alcuni,sacrificabili,
che non hanno battuto ciglio ad arrivare hai 3.6
comunque fuori specifica 42.3v/42.4v @3.6Amp 148/150 watt circa
Tj rilevata (al sensore) si stabilizza a 70°C dopo 2/h con raffreddamento attivo al massimo.
con Meanwell HLG-150H-42B dimmerabile"
if you don't get a word of Italian i can translate some.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7293260&postcount=12
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7293247&postcount=10
anyway from the spec the vf max is 39v. at 1900mA
here a pic of the (mine) worse one:
and if i may give you a pice of advice, check the holder you're getting, avoid this one, they need a double drill, one for position and one for fix the holder.
try to get the same as real.
2. belive it or not, there is someone who is running a cxa at 3.6A and 42.3-42.4v, no isn't a typo, it's a 3.6A for real:
"Ho due sistemi/muletto COB4 e COB9,i due prototipi iniziali in sintesi,tenuti da 14 mesi in stress-test, 24 ore su 24 accesi,
fuori specifica appositamente, con montati CXA 3070 tenuti a 3.6Amp e temperature veramente al limite, forse folli."
and
"ne abbiamo selezionati alcuni,sacrificabili,
che non hanno battuto ciglio ad arrivare hai 3.6
comunque fuori specifica 42.3v/42.4v @3.6Amp 148/150 watt circa
Tj rilevata (al sensore) si stabilizza a 70°C dopo 2/h con raffreddamento attivo al massimo.
con Meanwell HLG-150H-42B dimmerabile"
if you don't get a word of Italian i can translate some.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7293260&postcount=12
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7293247&postcount=10
anyway from the spec the vf max is 39v. at 1900mA
Last edited:
that is intense running @ 42v. i translated using google to save you the time. from my research it appears the HLG-240H-1750a would be best to drive 4 cobs with ~60w
im a little lost on what you said about the holder, bjut i'll check out reals
oh and what drill bit did you use to go thru the heatsink ?
im a little lost on what you said about the holder, bjut i'll check out reals
oh and what drill bit did you use to go thru the heatsink ?
jikko77
Active member
no idea how to say in english, sorry isn't my native language, it was a metal point.
take a specific one for metal, if you gonna do a lot of drill and the bar is thick, generic point would get damaged easily.
3mm large, i did used selftapping skrew for metal, large 3.5mm, which fit just into the holder.
this one are the one that gave me the best result:
take a specific one for metal, if you gonna do a lot of drill and the bar is thick, generic point would get damaged easily.
3mm large, i did used selftapping skrew for metal, large 3.5mm, which fit just into the holder.
this one are the one that gave me the best result:
