If you want, you can leave the saturated alcohol in the freezer after you filter the qwet. A little bit of stuff will collect on the bottom and you can filter that out... its a miniscule amount, not necessary, but this way doesn't involve extra processing or evaporation...
QWET oil extraction
- Thread starter Gray Wolf
- Start date
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I thought this would be a good place to ask a few questions rather than create a new thread.
My plan is to take some shake and everclear, freeze them for a few days, and follow the basic shake/wash methods outlined here.
My question is after the wash can I just strain through a coffee filter and evap that, or is it necessary to freeze everything first?
Other question was getting it off the pryex, should I throw a oil slick mat or parchment down after most of the oil is evaporated and finish the purge that way, or just wait until it's done and scrape the pyrex?
My plan is to take some shake and everclear, freeze them for a few days, and follow the basic shake/wash methods outlined here.
My question is after the wash can I just strain through a coffee filter and evap that, or is it necessary to freeze everything first?
Other question was getting it off the pryex, should I throw a oil slick mat or parchment down after most of the oil is evaporated and finish the purge that way, or just wait until it's done and scrape the pyrex?
1. you can but if you want to further remove any lipids, fats or waxes extracted during your process and have a cleaner product you can freeze it and re-filte
2. i let i evap on in a round pie dish, then apply low heat and scrap. after i collect i then press into a slab in parchment so it isnt dust consistency
Thanks for the quick reply. I think I will go ahead and try to get the fats/lipids out I am aiming for a shatter consistency.
After I freeze, do I need to warm it up before refiltering, or since there is alcohol in it will it just pour straight out?
no you want it to be cold so the water solubles (waxes,lipids,fats) are "frozen" and can pulled out by the coffee filter. do the straining in the freezer
Most folks just strain and process, as QWET doesn't extract much in the way of plant wax in the first place.
I evaporate down until the visible alcohol is gone and scrape the resin onto parchment or PTFE film for finishing
Thanks Graywolf for the reply! I am not in a huge rush and not a fan of waxes in my shatter, so I might do the refreeze and strain just to be safe.
Hey all...great and informative thread. So helpful!! Two quick questions...I am a rank newbie to operating at this level of extraction and am also very new to the world of vapable concentrates - other than kief. What I'm not quite clear about is whether the ETOH oil concentrate (from Everclear) is the final destination (prior to additions, if any) or whether any purpose is served to further "dry" out the oil via pyrex or some concentrate pad - particularly for use as vape material.
One of the things I would like to shoot for is a palatable coconut oil/ETOH oil mix for sublingual. Is the nature of the mixture the coconut oil - mixed with the ETOH oil won't solidify? Or does it still solidfy quickly?
Right now, the wash tincture is looking quite pristine and amber (made from buds) and I don't want to experiment too much without having a final plan. Also, I don't -at this point- have access to vacuum purging equipment. Thanks, all!
One of the things I would like to shoot for is a palatable coconut oil/ETOH oil mix for sublingual. Is the nature of the mixture the coconut oil - mixed with the ETOH oil won't solidify? Or does it still solidfy quickly?
Right now, the wash tincture is looking quite pristine and amber (made from buds) and I don't want to experiment too much without having a final plan. Also, I don't -at this point- have access to vacuum purging equipment. Thanks, all!
You can get 10% with QWET no problem if you have good sugary buds. Just depends on the product you put in, how cold you keep it, and how long you soak it. Longer warmer soaks with give higher yields in weight, but you'll have a darker color and more fats present. If you keep it as cold as you can and do 30s washes, you can expect to get 8-10% with decent color. I would do 30s washes for an A batch, and then wash it again for like 60-90s for a B batch. You could use the b batch for edibles or caps. A grade will be good dabs!
Hope it goes well for you!
G
In blue.
First thanks to IC mag and gray wolf for this thread. I too had a couple of questions and a quick comment.
If I read this correctly you are supposed to let the washed material dry out before making a second wash.
1. Couldn't I just run some more 0 degree ethanol through the material right away for the second wash?
As stated the first wash is more psychoactive and the second is more sedative. I like the couch lock indica type high.
2. Would it be beneficial for me to mix the first and second wash together if I am looking for the couch lock?
3. I understand the oil bath is for decarboxylation is there any benefit to decarb if I am going to smoke rather than ingest the qwet?
My comment is that i am from the Midwest corn belt and we have ethanol plants in my area. i had the chance to tour one. They are basically trying to make 100% ethanol but its not possible because of its attraction to H20. At the end of the process they add a small percentage of gasoline so its not drinkable. Would be a very cheap source of ethanol if they could legally sell you it before the addition of gasoline.
If I read this correctly you are supposed to let the washed material dry out before making a second wash.
1. Couldn't I just run some more 0 degree ethanol through the material right away for the second wash?
As stated the first wash is more psychoactive and the second is more sedative. I like the couch lock indica type high.
2. Would it be beneficial for me to mix the first and second wash together if I am looking for the couch lock?
3. I understand the oil bath is for decarboxylation is there any benefit to decarb if I am going to smoke rather than ingest the qwet?
My comment is that i am from the Midwest corn belt and we have ethanol plants in my area. i had the chance to tour one. They are basically trying to make 100% ethanol but its not possible because of its attraction to H20. At the end of the process they add a small percentage of gasoline so its not drinkable. Would be a very cheap source of ethanol if they could legally sell you it before the addition of gasoline.
bump -- i know the thread is old and rudimentary for many but hoping to get some knowledge.
Thanks
Water and ethanol reach azeotropic balance at about 95.5% at atmospheric pressure and is what we use.
Thanks gray wolf. I had to spend a 1/2 hour on google figuring out azeotropic balance.
Azeotrope / Azeotropic Mixture
Very large deviations from ideality lead to a special class of mixtures known as azeotropes, azeotropic mixtures, or constant-boiling mixtures. Azeotrope is a special class of liquid mixture that boils at a constant temperature at a certain composition. At this condition, it behaves as if it was one component with one constant boiling point.
A boiling liquid mixture at the azeotropic composition produces a vapour of exactly the same composition, and the liquid does not change its composition as it evaporates.
Two types of azeotropes are known: minimum-boiling and maximum-boiling (less common). One of the best known minimum-boiling azeotrope is the ethanol-water system which at 1 atm occurs at 89.4 mole percent ethanol and 78.2 oC.
Cold boil using vacuum, and catch with a cold trap.
You will save more of the aromatics, but will end up with gin in your recovery vessel, that is rife with monoterpenes.
