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Pure Blend Pro Info

greenlove

Member
sorry about all these questions (and thank you very much for the answers, you guys really help alot) but, do you think it would be wise to use less calmag because the sweet has mag in it already? lets say instead of 5ml calmag+, use like 3-4 ml of calmag and 5-10 ml sweet? or would the extra mag in sweet not hurt with the regular dosage of calmag+? i am slightly confused.

also i have a bunch of canna pk 13/14 from my last grow and was wondering if it is safe to use with pbpb, calmag+, sweet, and hydrogaurd? i am very cautious when it comes to using new nutes, and using things in conjunction properly. i dont want to over do it with all the different products.

this is what i have come up with so far.
pbpb:15ml/gal
calmag+: 3-4 ml/gal
sweet:5-10ml/gal
hydrogaurd:10ml/gal
pk 13/14: .5ml/gal (in flowering. maybe up it to .75-1ml/gal later on)

do you think this is a safe usage of nutes or should i change somthing (maybe not use the pk?) again, sorry for all of the questions, i just want to make sure im doing this right. any advice is greatly appreciated. (and im sorry if this post is a little crazy i just have such bad memory i forget what i write as im writing it, so sorry if i repeated myself)

one more thing, LK and silica blast, will i do fine without them? or should i invest in some of that to? it sounds like i might want to get some LK but i am low on cash so if i dont need it
 
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3dDream

Matter that Appreciates Matter
Veteran
greenlove said:
sorry about all these questions (and thank you very much for the answers, you guys really help alot) but, do you think it would be wise to use less calmag because the sweet has mag in it already? lets say instead of 5ml calmag+, use like 3-4 ml of calmag and 5-10 ml sweet? or would the extra mag in sweet not hurt with the regular dosage of calmag+? i am slightly confused.

also i have a bunch of canna pk 13/14 from my last grow and was wondering if it is safe to use with pbpb, calmag+, sweet, and hydrogaurd? i am very cautious when it comes to using new nutes, and using things in conjunction properly. i dont want to over do it with all the different products.

this is what i have come up with so far.
pbpb:15ml/gal
calmag+: 3-4 ml/gal
sweet:5-10ml/gal
hydrogaurd:10ml/gal
pk 13/14: .5ml/gal (in flowering. maybe up it to .75-1ml/gal later on)

do you think this is a safe usage of nutes or should i change somthing (maybe not use the pk?) again, sorry for all of the questions, i just want to make sure im doing this right. any advice is greatly appreciated. (and im sorry if this post is a little crazy i just have such bad memory i forget what i write as im writing it, so sorry if i repeated myself)

one more thing, LK and silica blast, will i do fine without them? or should i invest in some of that to? it sounds like i might want to get some LK but i am low on cash so if i dont need it

green, you really wont need the sweet until you start flowering. If you are low on funds just buy the sweet later. Also, you really only need 4 bottles (imo), liquid karma, pbp grow, pbp bloom, and cal-mag. Everything else is a bonus. In some cases you can get the nutes cheaper at your local hydro store due to the shipping charges online. You shouldn't pay more that 65usd for the (4) 1 quart bottles online.

If your water is very hard you might not need cal-mag at all (so I have read). I am using coco and my plants received every watering:

germination: 1ml LK + .5-1 ML pbp per gallon (150-200ppm)
first true leaves: 1ml LK + 2 ML pbp per gallon (200-300ppm)
2"-3": 2ml LK + 3-4 pbp + 1 cal-mag per gallon + 2.5ml hydroguard (300-400ppm)
4"-7": 2-3ml LK + 5-7pbp + 1-2 cal-mag + 5 silica blast (500-600ppm)

That where I am right now and everything is nice and green and tall. basically I ratio every off the pbp. If the plant looks light green I up the pbp and adjust the other nutes to the ratio.

Hope this helps!
 

greenlove

Member
thanks for the response 3d, i already have the sweet so i guess ill just go pick up some LK and possibly some silica as well.

will i be ok without the LK for a while? or should i get it quickly??
 

3dDream

Matter that Appreciates Matter
Veteran
I would think that you will be fine. Cal-mag and pure blend pro grow are fine for veg. Pbp is a fert and liquid karma is an additive.
 

BudZad7

Active member
:wave: Hi All ! Very good info !!!
Please help! Is this a good mix: PBPB+ LK+ CalMag+ Sweet+ Carbo Load powder+ Sensizym+ Pot O Gold.....this is for bloom, but decided to add Big Bud
powder one time......should maybe not use BB and use Top Max instead???

the BB slightly burned some leaves in 1 day of use, then flushed with RO water and Carbo Load and Sweet......hope that helped.....noticed that Top Max has
15% sea kelp(ascophyllum nodosum),and 30% humic acid (leonardite)...also, that the older sample paks had Liquid Karma 1-1-2 + 20% humic acid, the new
LK has .1-.1-.5 + 0.01 humic acid, so WHAT the F__k happened!!!??? :cuss:
WATERED DOWN SO WE HAVE TO USE MORE AND THEN BUY MORE!!! Then people say add Top Max, another companys product, so there's the 20% humic acid added back, then the added bonus of 10% more!!!! Is the above mix a good mix?? Please Help!


:wave: Peace!
 
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T

TheOneWill

When you use PBP, what else you use with it?
Liquid Karma, Cal-mag?
 
i used it straight for the beginning of flower, and so far it is working real well. I am now adding flouraliscious bloom at week 5. In a week I will cut it to just some sweet and flouraliscious and then just the sweet on the last week.
 

Hash Man

Member
yes i use all of them together with sweet. im trying house and gardens shooting powder as a transitin before flush this time....
 

junior_grower

Active member
Cal mag is not organic.


I use with PBP, Nirvana, Subculture and molasses, foliar spray with growth plus. I have results that are almost equal to AN DWC.
 

Retardo Motabon

Seenyourmember:0
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I taper off the cal mag after week 3 of flower and then move to using sweet for weeks 4-7. I switch to blackstrap molasses after that as sweet is so high in ppm's I find it hard to leach the soil properly if I use it to far in.
10ml calmag/gallon H20= 31
10ml seet/gallon H20 = 38

Sweet has plenty of Mg and is fine as an MG source during flower but the cal mag has substantial amounts of Calcium and iron too.
Too offset the reduction of Ca and Fe in my solution using sweet and no cal mag I use 50/50 r.o. to water. There is plenty of calcium and iron from the tap.
Tap water will also help in avoiding low pH in your solution thus a pH up compound becomes unnecesary.
WHen I use 15ml PBP Bloom, 5ml CaMag, and 10 ml LK with r.o. water the pH drops to about 4.4. and 3-4 mls of pH up are necessary to hit 5.8pH.
The same dosage of nutes with my tap water brings the pH to a perfect(for me) 6.0.
Since realizing this I stopped using pure r.o. water once plants are large enough to handle full strength nutes. Full strength as in 15ml PBP not the 30ml they recommend! I avoid adding any pH up by using less r.o. (and alot less water to make the r.o.).
I've been running a solution of 1000ppm's throughout with good results.
THis time around I am pushing at 1600ppm's until week 7 to see if I gain anything from it. So far, nothing gained. It's still only 40 days in so I'll taper off next feeding.

Regarding LK, I generally only use 5ml per gallon when feeding at 1000ppm's, using more has added nothing I can see feel or taste.

I feel it is best to use equal amounts grow and bloom the first two weeks of flower rather than halting the grow abruptly at the switch to 12/12.
I found when I didn't continue with some grow at the start of flower nitrogen levels weren't maintained by week three forcing me to use cal mag further along.
I'm moving to the opinion that phosphorous boosters are a good thing with the PBP line as the grow is darn light in phosphorous and the bloom is a bit light too.
My gut tells me that there isn't enough P in the line. When I have started flushing in the last three weeks before harvest I get P deficiency in the plants too fast and I can't help but feel it causes a loss in yield without a P additive. I was adding extra P with Roots Extreme serene 0-2-2 but have been unimpressed by the product. i have used increased levels of pbp bloom this time but will try using kool bloom next time.
The problem lies in letting the nitrogen dip, plant gets N deficient and more N is then needed further into flower. It is well known that high N levels decrease yield and can delay finishing times...and thats a problem!
Here is an offbeat question regarding the PBP line.
Has anyone noticed the buds tasting like hops or beerlike when not flushed properly? I swear just by that taste I can tell someone used PBP and didn't flush when smoking bud other than mine. I've gotten noticeably higher yields with some other ferts but the flavor and potency are superior to lines i've achieved higher yields with. As its for me and close friends the yield is no longer important to me compared with flavor and head of the herbs.
Well I had more to say then I thought! Happy growing peoples!
RM
 

plantman969

New member
whats up. I am a fairly new to personal growing and have started out with a full line of botanicare nutes, plus a few additives.

Nutrients I Run - For a 250w Conversion (MH flower/HPS Bloom) 14gallon, DWC rubbermade tote w/two 15" air stones with a water rez level of 9 gallons for 3 plants. in a 2x2x6 Homebox S. 4" 170cfm carbon filer exaust, two 4" 80cfm inline fans for air intake straight from humidifier, and two 6" clip fans for interior air movement. temps 67 night - low 84-87 high day with a low - 35% humitity all times. RO or Distilled Water

how can i improve or got any ideas on helping me with better flowering nutes or somthing you have used or have noticed benifits from.



Botanicare:

PBP Grow - From 5ml pre-soaking rockwool for seeds - end of week 2 15ml grow/bloom of flowering

PBP Bloom - week 1 of flowering 10ml grow 15ml bloom till buds start to form the only bloom - 1 1/2 week before harvest

Calmag - 2.5ml gal presoaked rockwool for seeds - harvest never going higher than 8ml

Liquid Karma - 15ml presoaking rockwool for seeds - 12ml gal veg 15ml gal bloom - harvest

Sweet - 5ml presoaking rockwool for seeds - 10-12ml for veg, 12-20ml bloom to harvest - Dont care great for seed germination and all the way through imo helps keep plant nice and compact during veg use both calmag and sweet keeping it close to 60 - 40 sweet-calmag

Silica Blast - Start adding at 2.5 ml a gal after fist set of tru leafs. Great natural ph Up No more than 5ml a gal at any given time.


Advanced Nutrients:

B52 - 1ml a gal for presoaking rockwool for seeds - 2-4ml a gal veg to transistion of 12/12 stop for 3 weeks and back to 2-4ml a gal bloom

Voodoo Juice - From start to finish/flush Great ****ing Stuff dont care whtany one says. its all in how you apply it i think. Granted i wasted a good chunk of change but i feel now every crop could benifit. I took some trial and error but imo there are a few ways one can benifit from it. at first
i went with the 30ml a gal for the full res and went half stength on nutes worked great no **** 3 hours i noticible root growth the next day double.
But 30ml a gal is way too much. i could explain this prosses of trail an error but that is for a diferent post. In the end i mix 1-2ml PER PLANT in a liquid siringe and then suck up some rez (filling the 60ml siringe) water after a day of the nutes sitting in the tote mixing - make sure pH is between 5.5 - 6.3 I then shake siringe and inject 20ml directly to the base of plant and rockwool. after this i usully add 10 - 15 ml a gallon based on total rez gallons not the number of gallons with mxed nutes so for me 90ml every rez change - for me 3 times a grow. baby-veg, veg-end of first month bloom, and bloom to flush

Sensizym - Next purchase and will use with every rez change, when needed, and for flush

pH Up
pH Down

Nutes I am going to purchase:
Collosal Bud Blast or Wet Betty Organic
Big Bud.


Nutrients must be mixed i a certin order so as to not lock other nutes out.
THIS IS THE BIGGEST AND BEST THING I HAVE LEARNED IN HELPING ME MAINTAIN MY LEVELS. If mixed in the right order very little pH up or down will be needed. For me after mixing I have to use a couple drops of pH up because of PBP Grow or Bloom when added lower pH significantly.

This is my mix and order for current veg and transition: Last two gallon mixes

RO Water - pH 7.1/75f/.32ec/220ppm/TDS 7
then add
10ml Liqiud Karma- ph 5.9/75f/.46ec/320ppm/TDS 226
+
10ml Sweet - forgot to get readings
+
7ml Calmag- pH 5.91/75f/1.38ec/960ppm/TDS 713
+
2ml B52- pH 5.8/75f/1.5ec/1040ppm/TDS 753
+
2ml Silica Blast- pH 6.5/75f/1.5ec/1070ppm/TDS 771
+
15ml PBP Grow- pH 5.35/75f/2.71ec/1890ppm/TDS 1440
my gallon mixes before transition

Transition Mix: Best Mix Yet
1 Gallon RO Water - ph 7.27/76f/.16ec/120ppm/TDS 12
+
12ml Liquid Karma- pH6.38/74f/.48ec/330ppm/TDS 241
+
12ml Sweet- pH 6.02/74f/.94ec/660ppm/TDS 487
+
6ml Calmag- pH 6.04/74f/1.47ec/1020ppm/TDS 763
+
10ml PBP Grow- pH 4.99/74f/2.38ec/1660ppm/TDS 1220
+
3ml Silica Blast- pH 5.73/74f/2.41ec/1680ppm/TDS 1310
+
12ml PBP Bloom- pH 5.23/74f/3.18ec/2220ppm/TDS 1790
+
2 drops pH Up- pH 5.51/74f/3.18ec/2220ppm/TDS 1790
Final Readings.

I start my rez with low nutes and add 1/2 - full strength nutes premixed in gallons as the water level lowers to my add back and if i feel the plants are getting to manny nutes i just take out a 1/2 - 1 gal rez water and add some pH balanced RO water then go back an hour later empty a gl of rz water add some pH down and dump it back in.

this is what i am working with hope it helps i will throw some pics up soon

OH DONT USE ROOTS ORGANIC TRINITY IN YOU DWC FOAMS/BUBBLES AND THE PLANTS DONT SEEM TO LIKE IT - BUT I BET IT IS GREAT IN SOIL.
 

plantman969

New member
1)Tap water will also help in avoiding low pH in your solution thus a pH up compound becomes unnecesary.

2)WHen I use 15ml PBP Bloom, 5ml CaMag, and 10 ml LK with r.o. water the pH drops to about 4.4. and 3-4 mls of pH up are necessary to hit 5.8pH.
The same dosage of nutes with my tap water brings the pH to a perfect(for me) 6.0.

3)I feel it is best to use equal amounts grow and bloom the first two weeks of flower rather than halting the grow abruptly at the switch to 12/12.
I found when I didn't continue with some grow at the start of flower nitrogen levels weren't maintained by week three forcing me to use cal mag further along.
I'm moving to the opinion that phosphorous boosters are a good thing with the PBP line as the grow is darn light in phosphorous and the bloom is a bit light too.

The problem lies in letting the nitrogen dip, plant gets N deficient and more N is then needed further into flower. It is well known that high N levels decrease yield and can delay finishing times...and thats a problem!

RM

1)True, for me i run the RO/Distilled water, but mix nutes as to not upset the ph flux so drasticly. Tap water is also a great way yo add natural ph up to your rez.

2)In which order and how do you mix your nutes? I read that the best way to take full advantage of your feeding program was to manage your nute mixing. So you would mix your additives/macros LK Sweet Carbo Load B52 ect, then your NPK Nutes PBP grow/bloom then your benificials voodooo, taranjula, pirana, sub -b sub-m ect. In doing so you will not lock any nutes out in the mixing process. also benificals should be added after the rez and nutes have had time to mix properly. I have had great succes with this and RO water statrting at ph 7 ending in 5.3-5.9

3)Also true you should definitally use PBP Grow in the first 3 weeks of bloom or till buds start to form. To get over the phos problem i was told using B52 after buds start to form will help this problem.

4)Side Note Try Sweet in veg i think you will like it. Just use a little less calmag. i use both together - sweet because it says if used in veg it will help keep plants from becoming soft stemed and lengthy. And my plants are short stocky bushes.
 

SkizOflan

Member
I have a question that pertains to the adding of nutes to a 'no-changeouts' recirculating hydro system. I'm running a 26 site bio bucket setup w/150gal of recirculating (50:50 r/o:tap) water and plan to keep the same (well, addbacks aside..) body of water throughout the entire grow by allowing beneficials to colonize within the lava rocks and do the maintenance work for me ;)

In reference to plantman969's #2 answer above, how would the proposed ordering of additives/nutes translate when the water is never 'changed-out' or 'mixed'? Would it still be as important..?

Second, i have two 12" waterfalls falling from 4" pvc pipes into my res. In the past, i have simply poured the various nutrient solutions (in the order of M/G/B + additives) directly into the waterfalls letting the water mix a little in the res while making sure the ppms don't get out of hand in the res 'chamber' (max variance +350ppm) before the mixed solution is sucked out of the res by the pump and into the pvc manifold and out the buckets. Do you think i should dilute them in water first like plantman969? I really don't think it's necessary given the nature of the system, but if anyone knows anything please share.. Also, do you think i would have seen better results had i started with my additives first and then done the M/G/B like plantman969 proposed?

One more question, i haven't chosen a nutrient line yet with this system. Does anyone know anything specific about beneficial bacteria and its preference in nutrients? I've run a previous bio system with Advanced Nutrients M/G/B + B52 + Hydroguard + Carboload + SugarDaddy + Mycorhizae and everything turned out great but i'm always interested in feedback from all the other bioneers out there..

Keep it live.
 

plantman969

New member
1)I have a question that pertains to the adding of nutes to a 'no-changeouts' recirculating hydro system. I'm running a 26 site bio bucket setup w/150gal of recirculating (50:50 r/o:tap) water and plan to keep the same (well, addbacks aside..) body of water throughout the entire grow by allowing beneficials to colonize within the lava rocks and do the maintenance work for me ;)

2)how would the proposed ordering of additives/nutes translate when the water is never 'changed-out' or 'mixed'? Would it still be as important..?

3)i have two 12" waterfalls falling from 4" pvc pipes into my res. In the past, i have simply poured the various nutrient solutions (in the order of M/G/B + additives) directly into the waterfalls letting the water mix a little in the res while making sure the ppms don't get out of hand in the res 'chamber' (max variance +350ppm) before the mixed solution is sucked out of the res by the pump and into the pvc manifold and out the buckets. Do you think i should dilute them in water first like plantman969? I really don't think it's necessary given the nature of the system, but if anyone knows anything please share.. Also, do you think i would have seen better results had i started with my additives first and then done the M/G/B like plantman969 proposed?

4)One more question, i haven't chosen a nutrient line yet with this system. Does anyone know anything specific about beneficial bacteria and its preference in nutrients? I've run a previous bio system with Advanced Nutrients M/G/B + B52 + Hydroguard + Carboload + SugarDaddy + Mycorhizae and everything turned out great but i'm always interested in feedback from all the other bioneers out there..

Keep it live.

1)Funny you say that, because the longer i go with out a res change using benificials in my dwc it seems the plants like it more. But instead of lava rocks go to the pet store and in the fish supplys section pick up some bio-balls they do the same thing but are not as sharp.

2) Ordering your nutes does a few things. First certin nutes are locked out at different ph levels. So if you mix a nute and swing your ph ethier to high or to low you may lock out important nutes. Have you ever taken readings after each diff nute is added to the mix in your res or a gal? If so you have an idea what each nute will do when added to what - ie types or water; RO Tap Distilled, water from your res with nutes in it. To bring my ph down i add grow/bloom nutes or ph down to my res water. To bring it up add a little tap water or ph up. Also the type of water determens how the addtion of anything will affect it. So say Distilled water and RO water have nothing to stop or carry additives or nutes when mixing. Where spring water or tap water has nitrates, and minerals calcium an so-forth, just as your res water. What this means is when i mix my nutes i use RO/Distiled. So if i start with RO/Distilled ph 7.2/71f/.24ec/110ppm/TDS 29
and add any N-P-K (i use PBP Grow/Bloom) my readings will look somthing like ph 4.35/71f/1.2ec/523ppm/TDS 368
but if i added my Liquid Karma Sweet or Calmag to the mix the reading would be less drastic so it would look more like
ph 6.56/71f/.87ec/424ppm/TDS 329 and would slowly reduce with the addtion of the next nute. So by the time i were to add my N-P-K the water now has additives to stop the drastic swing in ph. This will just dampen the swing so to speek. You also need add so Silica blast. This is great for strengthen our plants and add a natural ph up to you mix. I use 1ml per gal to 3ml per gal never more than 5 in drastic cases. So my order is
Liquid Karma
Sweet
Calmag
Silica Blast
PBP Grow/Bloom
-
ether Prozym or Myco Madness depending on stage of plant.
So if your intial mix is done right then no problems IMO.

3)M-G-B (Micro -Grow-Bloom correct?) is ordering. Just add your other additives first then MGB it would be the samething. Also for me i run a dwc like i said and just would not want to pour any nute striaght into my res as my roots are sitting in my soup mix. I dont run a recurculating system but as long as the nutes have time to mix properly before the introduction to the root zone then there should be no problem.

4) i am no expert but i can tell you what i know/understand of benificials.
I doesent matter the nute line just what benificials you are going to use (though they really seem to like Liquid Karma). Me i started with AN Voodoo Juice (to spendy and has half the benificials as the other:dueling:) and now use Humboldt Nutrients Myco-Madness (the other: Also seems to be them most compleat benifical with the most bactieria). Also i think the way you apply the benificals can make a difference aswell. Say pre-mixed, mix directly into the rez or applyed to the root base directly. I do all three. I dont know how true it is but i think i read somwhere man made salts will killl your benificials. Some say only apply in the first weeks of veg and bloom, but i add them when ever i think the plant might need a boots. Usually you want to add your benificals after your res has had a day to mix properly. So dont add them when you add nutes. Either when you add back plain water or pre-mix with water out of res then add back. Again i do both, i have also mixed 10ml Voodoo Juice with 60ml water mixed (shook really hard) and shot the mix into the base of my plant via hydroton and rockwool just as i was watering them alowing the mix to drip down the roots and colinate them before mixing with the res. With the myco-madness i pre mixed 1 tbls in with 3 keg cups of res water and poured into rez along with pouring a little over the roots. Another good idea is to use a enzyme product when using benificals, helps break down organic matter and dead roots making readaly avalible nutes to your plant cleaning the roots and alowing the benificals to better colinate the roots.

go to youtube and type in hydroponic secrets - It is an Advanced Nutrients Promoted show but take the concepts of each product and apply those to any other nute line. Explains Organics, enzymez, benificials, teas , foilar sprays any product they have. So any product an company has just a slightly different combo of ingredeints and price range. Me I am a Botanicare fan and run there whole "organic" line, with a few additives of my own.
PBP Grow/Bloom/Soil
LK, Sweet, Calmag
Silica Blast.

AN:
B-52, pH Up/Down, Wet Betty Organic, Organic B

Humboldt Nutrients:
Prozyme and Myco-Madness Soluble

Tryed Roots Organic Trinity but it is not good in hydro applications.

Also made my own foilar spray out of:
LK - Trinity - Prozyme - seemed fine.

other than that these are my findings and clame nothing hahaha.
just a few things that helped me in my adventures in cultivation: the ups and downs of plant life.:yeahthats
 

LosGanjales

New member
ph in ReadyGro coco?

ph in ReadyGro coco?

I am using ReadyGro coco and am about to switch over to using PBP for veg. I run ph anywwhere from 5.8 to 6.1.

Just curious whether anyone has noticed a sweet spot pH for the PBP. I will also be using LK and CalMagPlus about twice a week.

tia
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
I'm coming from a chem fert recirculating drip. 9 gal res for 3 plants

Is anyone using PBP +LK + CalMAg, etc in a recirculating drip system? I'd like to find a drip-friendly nute combo that I can expand the benefitial microbes with in my existing system (with some mods).

The PBP was recommended as possibly a good base system for "organic" drip

Thanks
 

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