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Prototype model of Grow Op

kingape

Active member
No I have not looked into a dosatron. However it sounds like it costs a fortune. Lol. However The idea of a smaller flood makes it sound like it is worth it. If it does Ph and nutrients all I can say is WOW. I guess I know what I will be reading about tonight.

The 34% Hydrogen Peroxide cleared up the biofilm overnight basically I just hope it’s not canceling all the good things the Fulvic is doing.

I have been foliar spraying the no N CalMag that Bill recommend. Like I said before I changed everything in my new room. Everything definitely looks better than it ever has but I’m only 2 weeks into flower so I don’t want too get too excited yet. I can’t say which part or combination of the changes has helped the most because I changed everything. Grow medium, lighting, DTW, nutrients, sealed room, different pots, environment controller, etc. I honestly don’t know cant think of one thing that has not been changed accept the last three HPS lights that need to be changed to LED.
Dosatron does have an entire manifold setup for Silicate,Part A,Part B and pH

Glad to hear that your room is super!
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey guys.......How`s all yall`s girls doin ......My 2 centavos on bloom boosters.....It`s been my experience over the yrs that they`re waaaaay overrated and usually burn bitches up if not used properly when they actually need it as in AFTER complete end of stretch when they start drinkin double what they did during veg and stretch and full swellage is happenin.......and then.......how much to use ?.....how much is enough and how much is too much ......?...I know this......

The more indica dominant strains can mostly take all and everything you can throw at em without burnin up and shuttin down on you as to where the more sativa sided hybrids and purebreds will shit the bed and croak FAST if not fed gently and consistently lower ppm`s across the board till end of cycle.....but.....

Just cuz there`s varieties that can take the ppm`s /EC doesn`t mean it`s beneficial and or IF it`ll make a difference in overall health rather end result yields come choptime , AND how much will you haveta leach outta your medium as in all manners of flushin JUST to keep your shit from tastin like metal and smellin like hay when the dry and cure process is done......jus sayin......Take it from an old fart that`s run the gammit on nutrients from beginning to end and trust me......less is more believe me......with HPS lighting that is.....

In the last few yrs I`ve seen where the new LED lights cause deficiencies if nutrient levels aren`t kept up with , but again......This level of juice usage is still in it`s infancy and nuthin`s written in stone about growin dope with increased nutrient levels ESPECIALLY when it coms to gettin rid of the excess before harvey cuz again .....You DON`T wanna chop your plants with a buncha nutrients still stored in your nuggage right ?......No snap , crackle , pop when my nugs burn and ABSOLUTELY no sparkle when they`re lit up.....believe me.....I`ve seen it all guys..........me ?.......

I learned a looooong time ago that shovin ppm`s up their ass was bad juju and definitely hindered the process more than helped I assure all here , and as far as additives like fulvics and humics LJ......all that shit`s best left to dirt farmin and the organic growers and NOT with REZ usage and DTW setups , and I guarantee when you added H202 to your rez for the sludgy shit buildup even just a lil bit , all your bennies got fried and useless ........More is NOT better bro.....K.I.S.S is your friend , bet on it......

My rule of thumb that has always worked for my old ass is adding 5 ml per gal of Botanicare Cal / Mag , 5 ml per gal of Botanicare Silicablast and a balanced nutrient profile of 3-2-1 in veg ALL the way through end of stretch , then the opposite for bloomage with a 1-2-3 profile FTW.....ALWAYS.....but that`a just me.....and yeah.....

I know yall are rollin with Jack`s and Calcium Nitrate , but Coco NEEDS the Calcium boost along with some epsom salts for the magnesium sulfate , and King .......there`s not a damn thing wrong with a Calcium AND even some epsom salts added in for a foliar to help with the transition from stretch to full swellage , but again......a balance is needed to prevent too much media flushin toward end of cycle to get rid of excess stored nutrients......and.....for the record......

I`ve never flushed a day in my life but rather dwindled my juice down slowly over the last couple weeks or so to let the plants cannibalize themselves on their own WHILE they still swell instead of starvin their ass the last few weeks TRYIN to get rid of excess juice stored in the large fans and the medium itself.........Oh yeah......

Dosers....There`s not a damn thing wrong with usin em and as you said King it stops ALL rez mixin and stirrin and KEPT stirred to prevent precipitation and nutrients fallin outta suspension , ESPECIALLY powdered shit like Jack`s that hasta be mixed and re-mixed to melt and dissolve all of it into a rez.....aight.....Nuff preachin from me this day.....

Just tryin to help from all those yrs of fuckin up and fixin shit on my own learnin the hard way.....Yall take care and Good luck.....

Peace......DHF......
 

LJ farming

Active member
You are seriously a badass DHF. I seriously appreciate how simple you make it. I have another one of my “I should already know this shit questions” so a few days ago we discussed leaf strippin/defoliation after stretch is 100% complete! What about relollypoppin? Same rules apply or should it be done gradually through stretch? I have some serious undergrowth that needs to be lollypopped again and I don’t want to stunt the ladies but I also do not want all that shit that needs to be cut off wasting energy. Thanks again for sharing the knowledge DHF.

My ladies are looking good besides the fact that they try to grow through the damn ceiling every damn day. I swear I have snapped off at least 25 colas trying to tame the bitches. It makes me almost shed a tear every time.

Peace out,

LJ.
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Every lil bit underneath that`s growin beneath the layer / canopy of light penetration is stealin vital plant energy from ALL the laterals and vertical leads that need all they can get durin the transition from veg to flower , so yeah.......definitely get rid of ALL foliage underneath and don`t worry bout stuntin your plants by underneath cleanout , it`s all the foliage above and on all the stretchin leads / limbs that`re up and out toward the light stimulus you needta worry about gettin stunted and shuttin down with a recovery period before end of stretch.....and hey LJ....

Next time your plants are goin crazy and growin / stretchin into your lights (hopefully you`ve learned a hard lesson and this never happens again) BUT if it does , DON`T get rid of the leads , just pinch and almost snap the ends and it`ll slow down the upward growth but KEEP the colas intact so bottom line results / yields won`t suffer so much.....where you snap/ pinch will heal and grow knuckles and heal but STILL produce decent colas by end of cycle..... anyways.....

It`s the little things you learn along the way that`ll help in the long run Bro......Take care and good luck guys.....

Peace.....DHF......
 
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kingape

Active member
Hey guys!

If you're supplementing CO2, during lights off, what temps do you maintain?

I know that a temp near 30C is optimal during lights on and CO2
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
King.......You`re wastin your gas Bro......Your plants eat CO2 durin lights on and shit out the excess along with the water vapor they didn`t metabolize and use durin lights out by way of the transpiration process.....Get a cheap CO2 monitor and I`m sure you`ve already got a temp / RH / hygrometer in your grow area , so al you haveta do is note how CO2 AND RH spikes durin lights out to show how all excess is shit out durin lights out......

Hope that helps , so good luck and......

Peace.....DHF.......
 

kingape

Active member
King.......You`re wastin your gas Bro......Your plants eat CO2 durin lights on and shit out the excess along with the water vapor they didn`t metabolize and use durin lights out by way of the transpiration process.....Get a cheap CO2 monitor and I`m sure you`ve already got a temp / RH / hygrometer in your grow area , so al you haveta do is note how CO2 AND RH spikes durin lights out to show how all excess is shit out durin lights out......

Hope that helps , so good luck and......

Peace.....DHF.......
Hey!

I think I was not clear, I am not supplementing CO2 during lights off!

Just wanted to know what temps to maintain at light off
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
I just saw the damn comma King.......sorry bout that......lol.......so......Always and forever it`s been noted and documented that lights on and lights off temps should never vary more than 10 degrees.....and why ?.......in simple terms , temps with greater swings in lights on and off affect stretch to a great degree thus causin internode elongation ( space between nodes ) that`s a big no no for stackin colas and NOT growin stem and excess foliage.......

Sorry I missed the comma on your question Bro......Take care and.......

Peace......DHF......
 

kingape

Active member
I just saw the damn comma King.......sorry bout that......lol.......so......Always and forever it`s been noted and documented that lights on and lights off temps should never vary more than 10 degrees.....and why ?.......in simple terms , temps with greater swings in lights on and off affect stretch to a great degree thus causin internode elongation ( space between nodes ) that`s a big no no for stackin colas and NOT growin stem and excess foliage.......

Sorry I missed the comma on your question Bro......Take care and.......

Peace......DHF......
Haha!

No problem DHF!

Is that 10 degrees in Farenheit or Celsius?
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Fuuuuuck.......Sorry again Bro......I forgot you`re not stateside so.....yeah.....as in Fahrenheit not Celsius......

Peace.....DHF......
 

LJ farming

Active member
Again you rock DHF. How about an ozone generator? Has anyone used one of these or read about them for doing a all but guaranteed 100% room sanitizing after you clean the room after harvest? I have an amigo that does Home restoration after floods, fires, basically all disasters and he said that ozone which is O3 I believe will 100% kill all living things in the room in a very short time frame. Like an hour or so depending on room size. So you know you start fresh without molds, mildews, pathogens, pests, etc. I was pretty buzzed up when he was telling me about it but it potentially sounded like a good idea and a really cheap insurance policy to start every new grow completely clean without a question as long as you bring clean veg plants in.
 

kingape

Active member
Again you rock DHF. How about an ozone generator? Has anyone used one of these or read about them for doing a all but guaranteed 100% room sanitizing after you clean the room after harvest? I have an amigo that does Home restoration after floods, fires, basically all disasters and he said that ozone which is O3 I believe will 100% kill all living things in the room in a very short time frame. Like an hour or so depending on room size. So you know you start fresh without molds, mildews, pathogens, pests, etc. I was pretty buzzed up when he was telling me about it but it potentially sounded like a good idea and a really cheap insurance policy to start every new grow completely clean without a question as long as you bring clean veg plants in.
Yes it is!

But you've got to be extremely careful to let the room completely exhaust before you step in!

I've also read about ozone being an extremely effective odor control measure
 

kingape

Active member
Hi!

Just figured I'd get all your views on this.

I'm feeding Jacks 321 to my plants at half strength and they look great!

The temps are running high and I didn't want their to be high salt buildup, so I went half strength

Do you think the growth is affected by the strength?

I mean I'm fertigating thrice a day so I doubt the plants suffer from nutrient availability.

For eg, if at full strength the water is at 1000 ppm, I'm providing 500ppm thrice a day

I think the rate of absorption of the plants would matter right?

Am I making sense?
 

LJ farming

Active member
I use RO water and with the control TrolMaster gives you run my room right at 79F and 67% RH and 990 ppm of C02.
I ran 3.0g of A and 2.5g of B per gallon in veg with no epsom. I also only gave them CalMag via foliar. Plants looked great all the way through. For flower I dropped it to 2.7 of A and 2.25 of B the first 3 weeks of flower and on week four I dropped it to 2.5 A and 2.0 B with 1/2g of Homemade Hammerhead so far everything has went almost flawless accept for a minor Calcium deficiency that I had DHF diagnose a couple days ago and it was taken care of with 3 waterings. I did flush also at his recommendation in case something else with Ph was going on and the plants are back on track to be my best yet. I am seriously blown away every time I walk in my room.
On DJMs Coco trees he ran Jacks several different ways and ended up at 3.0/2.5 working the best for him all the way through. He used 5 gallon smart pots and I am not sure how that would change everything from my 2 gallon square pots as far as nutrients and number of feeds go.
I am already at 5 feeds per day and only in week 5 so hopefully my timer that only goes up to 8x/Day will be enough in the end. It seems that there is not a limit to the amount the plants will take as long as you keep the PPM/EC correct in the root zone. It’s when you don’t keep them moist/almost wet that shit starts to go bad in a hurry from everything I have read.
This is all only my perspective and what works for me King. DHF regularly smacks me with the reality that it’s going to take runs under my belt in my set up to get everything dialed in the best it can be but I do believe there is definitely something to running a lower EC and feeding them as much as they will take. The way I looked at it was it’s a lot easier to give them more if they need it than to fix overfed burnt plants.

Enough from me it’s Friday and time for a pint and a joint!

Peace out,

LJ
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Less is more boys......less is more......especially with coco and how easy residual salt buildup can occur.....Gladta see things workin out for you at 500 ppms KIng......I`ve always preached 1.2 EC / 600 ppms but then with coco I hadta add the appropriate Cal / Mag supplementation 0f 5-7.5 ml per gal and not to forget my tried and true Silicablast @ another 5 ml per and that ended up with my juice recipe in the neighborhood of 750 with clone only Chem D to make that bitch be all she could be.......and.....

The 1 thing both ya`ll both have goin for you is the multiple feeds in smaller containers that keeps your medium always "moist" under the big lights without any tops of the containers dryin out cuz THAT`S where residual salt buildup begins and can only be rectified with 1/2 strength nutrient solution "flushes"......and.....LJ forgot to say that with coco the cardinal rule of thumb if things go sideways is ALWAYS "When in doubt , FLUSH it out"......but......

NEVER flush coco with straight H2O cuz you`ll fuck up the CEC / cation exchange capacity and you`ll end up addin back Cal / Mag till the medium stores enough to satisfy said CEC BEFORE releasin what the plants need back to em......IOW.....you`ll cause calcium AND magnesium issues if you don`t flush with 1/2 strength juice until the medium`s back into proper parameters for optimum plant growth and health......aight.....

Nuff outta my old ass this day.....I`m gone fishin.....Take care and good luck......

Peace.....DHF......
 

kingape

Active member
@DunHav`nFun What's your preferred media?

Also, have you heard about wollastonite as a silica source?

Dr Daniel Fernandez is an amazing professor and his video does a great job in explaining different sources for Silica and since silica raises pH, the wollastonite method looks good enough to try

 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey bro......For 15 yrs more or less , I worked with lava rocks in Krusty buckets and then ebb and flow buckets with dialed success , and then an old bro showed me what he was doin with 1lb plants runnin DTW coco and I was intrigued with the hydro-like fast growth......so......

I was lookin for an easier wayta run my mom plants back then so I tried coco and I was amazed at how fast I could take more cuts every couple weeks than I ever was able to with ebb and flow buckets on constant veg , so when I saw my old bro Heath Robinson with a new invention it got my wheels turnin and ......

I came up with a coco DTW setup with his idea of angled shelves , but mine was on 4 levels with 4 plants on each level on all 4 walls and the idea worked better than any setup I`d ever come up with , so I phased out each ebb and flow bucket setup as they finished cycles at each location and retroed all to the vertical setup with 3-600`s stacked on top of each other with 1/3 coco pithy stringy fibers , 1/3 chunks / husks , and 1/3 chunky perlite , then ran it for 7 yrs before an abrupt retirement due to security reasons......and.....

I still run DTW coco to this day for my headies personal grow setup......but....... lived off of what I had in my freezer for several yrs till I was certain no blowback from a close friend`s takedown in another state would head my way , and lastly......The only potassium silicate I`ve ever used comes in a bottle by Botanicare bro......It`s all I`ve ever used since the first setup with Krusty buckets and I`m a creature of habit and don`t like tryin new things if what I use works for my old ass....also.....

I`ve been asked this before on several occasions bout usin my Silicablast for ph up , and it`s never raised my ph any at all to speak of .....I suppose due to my nutrient regimen of GH 3 part but who knows....I run straight Maxibloom now for the K.I.S.S formula and still no raise in ph when I add 5 ml per gal......anyways......Good luck , take care and.....

Peace.....DHF.....
 
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kingape

Active member
Hey @DunHav`nFun ,

Just went through this book.

According to the author, ventilation flow is ranked as below
  1. Air flowing from the floor, since stomata are generally more numerous on the underside of leaves
  2. From the top
  3. From the sides
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Holy shit King.......That book`s $200.......and I`ve been givin away all that knowledge and experience for free all these yrs.....LOL......I`m sure he`s gotta alot of pretty pictures to illustrate things though , and..... I`ve never shown pics ever in all my days of helpin on many many weedsites , but per your statement I`ll reply with what I learned from croppin hard my entire indoor career......Venitlation as follows......

First off , since I don`t have access to the book and there`s no statement as to whether or not he`s speakin of air extraction along with wall fan usage , or if it`s pertaining to sealed rooms with CO2 supplements , but as far as my rooms were geared out with active intakes and exhaust scrubber combo`s out of each flip room , I ALWAYS created a "vortex" of air AROUND the plants , but ......

NEVER directly on the plants that causes excess transpiration / sweating , as well as causing excess nutrient uptake that will cause ph imbalances and eventual lockouts unless rectified , all with wall fans below in each corner of the grow areas at floor level so that the blowing air hit each wall with the next fan doin the same , so on and so forth all the way around the rooms......and......

The upper fans at ceiling height blew in the same direction as to form said circular "vortex" as I call it so ALL the inherent CO2 in the air we breathe was as available to the plants as they needed it as humanly possible since I employed air extraction twice per minute with lung rooms per my learnin from the man himself "Heath Robinson" 20 some odd yrs ago compared to the more popular sealed rooms with CO2 supplements......also.....

My intake fans were on the floor and my extraction scrubber combo`s were at ceiling height on the same wall so all air comin in the grow areas followed the wall fans and ended up back out of the rooms after circling said rooms AND plants.....anyways......I hope you gained more knowledge from that book than your previous grower experience has provided to make said book cost effective to you in your future projects.....that said......

Holler anytime I can help and.....

Peace.....DHF.......
 

kingape

Active member
Hey guys!

How's it going with all of you?

Hope your systems are dialled in ;)

I was estimating the size of dehumidifier I'd require and just wanted to go over the calculations!

So I'm planting clones at a density of 4psf and flipping them straight to flower with no veg in a 6x6 inch square pot that holds approx 1 gallon of media

At the peak of flower asuming I feed 0.6 gallon, that'll be 4x0.6x32 = 77 gallons/12 hour period.

Is that sizing correct?
 

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