Soak your plugged emitters in this. Waay more effective than vinegar.
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Prototype model of Grow Op
- Thread starter kingape
- Start date
kingape
Active member
I'm going to be running the same varieties.
So two seperate manifolds with a solenoid valve?
Or 2 seperate main lines?
@mojave green soak them in what concentration?
Full concentrate.
KG......If you`ve got a pump with enough gpm`s and head that`supplies enough pressure for equal flow to each plantsite on both tables and you`re feedin the same varieties at the same time , I don`t know why a single manifold wouldn`t work , but all the folks I see with tables run 1 rez per , so that`s all I can vouch for bro.....but trial and error will be the wayta find out I suppose.....
Peace.....DHF.....
Peace.....DHF.....
kingape
Active member
Thanks DHF!
Btw, @f-e has an excellent thread on matching pump sizes and drippers, @LJ farming you might want to check it out before you buy anything!
LJ farming
Active member
Do you use a magnetic stirrer King? Somebody on a Jacks thread recommended one and I seriously could not live without my $28 Cheap Chinese magnetic stirrer. It makes mixing Jacks a little more entertaining I guess?
kingape
Active member
Yeah, I do! but its an overhead stirrer that I had from previous use
I make concentrates at a 1:500 ratio so pretty useful for me!
kingape
Active member
Hi!
So I have prepared a rudimentary diagram of the Flowering room.
I will be using the 2gph Octabubbler with a .5gph Netafim emitter.I
Total Number of Octabubblers/table : 8
Emitters per table : 128
From what I have read, having individual rez for each table should be the way to go.
So
- What pump size should I use?
- I will be running two flowering rooms, so that is 4 rez in all...I was thinking I'll hook them up with a float valve so they are refilled every morning from the batch tank, how do I do this? will it require 4 different lines from the batch tank? I have avoided using solenoid valves till now, just scared of one more thing that can fail :/
- Any way of measuring the total water consumer per table? One option I have is to use weight sensors for each rez
- Any other irrigation fittings I should be using?
So I have prepared a rudimentary diagram of the Flowering room.
I will be using the 2gph Octabubbler with a .5gph Netafim emitter.I
Total Number of Octabubblers/table : 8
Emitters per table : 128
From what I have read, having individual rez for each table should be the way to go.
So
- What pump size should I use?
- I will be running two flowering rooms, so that is 4 rez in all...I was thinking I'll hook them up with a float valve so they are refilled every morning from the batch tank, how do I do this? will it require 4 different lines from the batch tank? I have avoided using solenoid valves till now, just scared of one more thing that can fail :/
- Any way of measuring the total water consumer per table? One option I have is to use weight sensors for each rez
- Any other irrigation fittings I should be using?
LJ farming
Active member
King,
Im definitely not questioning your layout but what’s the reasoning behind a rez for each table? I have read that lots of people do a separate pump for each table but I don’t remember reading a separate rez for each one.
I am thinking I might go to 2 pumps or 1 pump and solenoids for my current set up but now I’m questioning if I need 2 reservoirs.
I swear one of these days I’m going to actually grow some buds.
perhaps a livestock tank float valve would work for your application. They will bolt to the lip of any tank. I use the livestock tank float valves all over my ranch with no issues accept when it freezes. They have a 3/4 inch garden hose inlet that would be easy enough to convert to whatever you want if necessary.
Im definitely not questioning your layout but what’s the reasoning behind a rez for each table? I have read that lots of people do a separate pump for each table but I don’t remember reading a separate rez for each one.
I am thinking I might go to 2 pumps or 1 pump and solenoids for my current set up but now I’m questioning if I need 2 reservoirs.
I swear one of these days I’m going to actually grow some buds.
perhaps a livestock tank float valve would work for your application. They will bolt to the lip of any tank. I use the livestock tank float valves all over my ranch with no issues accept when it freezes. They have a 3/4 inch garden hose inlet that would be easy enough to convert to whatever you want if necessary.
kingape
Active member
I can shorten it to one tank and 2 pumps per room...just wanted to avoid solenoid valves to work with to water the plants.
The ideal situation would be that I have one tank that waters all the plants in all the 3 rooms with a whole bunch of solenoid valves that direct the flow but I'm just wondering about how much water will be stored in the pipes and the chances of a solenoid malfunctioning.
Also I haven't figured out how to swap the nutrient line to the plain water one in case I need to flush.
KG , I`m of the same mind with you about less is more and K I S.S . , but if you`re onsite 24/7 then maybe solenoids will do the job intended , and I`d keep backups around in case any shit the bed , so good luck with whatever you come up with.......and remember.....
With coco IF you needta flush , ALWAYS use 1/2 strength nutrient solution instead of straight ph`ed water so you won`t pull all the " cations / ions " (whatever the fuck they call em) outta the medium and then haveta REBUILD the CEC before nutrients will be able to be released back to your plants , and next....
With your diagram concerning wall as well as ceiling fans , if the rooms were mine I`d put the wall fans in every corner blowin away from each other , corner to corner to create that "vortex" of air AROUND the plants , and then with the ceiling fans I`d put em on reverse to pull hot air up and away from the tables for better canopy temps during lights on.....1 more thing that a lotta folks don`t know or realize and I see it done wrong regularly from folks that won`t listen ......so.....
NEVER blow air directly on your plants.....and why ?......It makes em transpire / sweat excessively , and then that in turn causes excess nutrient uptake , and THAT will cause lockouts and imbalances down the road guaranteed if ppm`s and ph aren`t monitored constantly during mid-late bloomage after end of stretch.....and .....
I know you`re just gonna be runnin plantlets , but......128 of them lil bitches / actually 256 in 1 room will put out more water vapor during lights out than you realize so monitor your RH lights out as well to insure no airborn nasties form toward end of cycle .....also....use that exhaust /scrubber combo durin lights out as well to help keep excess RH and CO2 in check.....anyways......
Just tryin to help . so good luck , take care , and.......
Peace.....DHF.....
With coco IF you needta flush , ALWAYS use 1/2 strength nutrient solution instead of straight ph`ed water so you won`t pull all the " cations / ions " (whatever the fuck they call em) outta the medium and then haveta REBUILD the CEC before nutrients will be able to be released back to your plants , and next....
With your diagram concerning wall as well as ceiling fans , if the rooms were mine I`d put the wall fans in every corner blowin away from each other , corner to corner to create that "vortex" of air AROUND the plants , and then with the ceiling fans I`d put em on reverse to pull hot air up and away from the tables for better canopy temps during lights on.....1 more thing that a lotta folks don`t know or realize and I see it done wrong regularly from folks that won`t listen ......so.....
NEVER blow air directly on your plants.....and why ?......It makes em transpire / sweat excessively , and then that in turn causes excess nutrient uptake , and THAT will cause lockouts and imbalances down the road guaranteed if ppm`s and ph aren`t monitored constantly during mid-late bloomage after end of stretch.....and .....
I know you`re just gonna be runnin plantlets , but......128 of them lil bitches / actually 256 in 1 room will put out more water vapor during lights out than you realize so monitor your RH lights out as well to insure no airborn nasties form toward end of cycle .....also....use that exhaust /scrubber combo durin lights out as well to help keep excess RH and CO2 in check.....anyways......
Just tryin to help . so good luck , take care , and.......
Peace.....DHF.....
kingape
Active member
Thanks DHF!
That's pretty sound advice!
I don't think I'll be on site 24/7, that is why I'm scared of the solenoids.
The positioning of the wall fans are a good idea, will keep it in mind.
I don't know how the ceiling fans will revolve in a reverse way, I'll have to check on that.
Yes, the RH during lights off will be a thing to watch, I'm guessing around 90% of the watering is transpired by the plants.
My watering estimate is 750ml/plant at its peak, so that's close to 200L of water I'll have to remove from the room if using a dehumidifier.
My current plan is to run a sealed room at lights on and then exhaust the room all night as the air around me is pretty dry and it'll beat running a dehumidifier all night.
What do you think?
Also, for the lung room idea, I think you said the lung room should be equal in size to the flowering room.
Can you run a common lung room for 2 flowering rooms?
Here in the states , ceiling fans have 2 pull chains for the fan speed and light kit on /off....but.....on the body of the fan there`s a lil switch to use the fan to blow down /forward, or switch it to blow up/reverse.....I have no clue how they work cross the pond so forgive me if that`s not an option where you are.....pretty normal and standard of the industry here for forward/reverse switches on em though ......and .....
You`ll be amazed how much less your dehuey will haveta run with lights out exhaust since that`s when the bulk of the plants transpiration will occur IF lights on temps don`t cause heat issues that make em sweat......now.....You can absolutely run a lung room for 2 rooms .....that`s exactly what I did for yrs and yrs bro , but now my flip rooms ran where 1 was lights off and the other lights on every 12 hrs so no power spikes would give me away to the utility company......and yes.....
Lung rooms need to be at least equal to each grow area so double that for both your rooms if you decide to go that route , but mine far exceeded the 2 rooms I ran at each location just for insurance since I never lived at any of em....
I ran in basement foundations and built false walls about 8-10' out from the in ground walls and then all the way across the width of the basement maybe 30-40 ft wide , then put a refrigerator in front of the access door with a bunch of construction materials stacked and strewn up and down the rest of the wall while I was remodeling the foreclosures I bought as I was growin my ass off behind the false walls.....anyways....
Hope that helps so .....Good luck , take care and ......
Peace.....DHF.....
You`ll be amazed how much less your dehuey will haveta run with lights out exhaust since that`s when the bulk of the plants transpiration will occur IF lights on temps don`t cause heat issues that make em sweat......now.....You can absolutely run a lung room for 2 rooms .....that`s exactly what I did for yrs and yrs bro , but now my flip rooms ran where 1 was lights off and the other lights on every 12 hrs so no power spikes would give me away to the utility company......and yes.....
Lung rooms need to be at least equal to each grow area so double that for both your rooms if you decide to go that route , but mine far exceeded the 2 rooms I ran at each location just for insurance since I never lived at any of em....
I ran in basement foundations and built false walls about 8-10' out from the in ground walls and then all the way across the width of the basement maybe 30-40 ft wide , then put a refrigerator in front of the access door with a bunch of construction materials stacked and strewn up and down the rest of the wall while I was remodeling the foreclosures I bought as I was growin my ass off behind the false walls.....anyways....
Hope that helps so .....Good luck , take care and ......
Peace.....DHF.....
kingape
Active member
I doubt the fan's here have those switches, let me check though!
About the lights on rh, I am going to get a dehumidifier to be on the safer side!
What's your experience been with plants tolerating higher temps with Co2?
I plan to run the flower rooms alternatively too!
Quite the hustle with the remodeling!! what did you build the false walls with?
Very few people know this with all the old sites dead and gone along with all the old head`s experience and knowledge , plus all the potsnobs will SWEAR that anything over the mid 70`s will kill terpenes as in taste and smell , ALL of which I call bullshit but......Truth of the matter is that pot plants ONLY benefit from elevated levels of CO2 runnin higher temps in the mid 80`s-low 90`s BUT only with elevated levels of RH/proper VPD in the 70 percentile range to cut down on transpiration from the extra heat and light durin lights on.......and.....
I learned long long ago from a krazy ass kanadian klown called Krusty about all this when I first started growin his style of SWC big plants in the 2-3 lb range as stated many many yrs ago.....He had experience from the greenhouse hydroponic veggie scene where he lived and from what he learned there was adapted into growin monster ass pot plants , and did it well I might add.....anyways.....that `s my tale and I`m sittin on it.....lol.....now.....
I used regular 2x4 studs with osb / plywood for the walls put together with screws so they could be tore down and re-used after 1 yr of growin and movin to the next foreclosure / location....Never stayed anywhere with plants longer than a yr for my own protection and paranoia......After that 1 yr enough was made to pay the house off , finish remodeling , and then put on the market as a rental property.....
Holler if I can help.....
Peace.....DHF.....
I learned long long ago from a krazy ass kanadian klown called Krusty about all this when I first started growin his style of SWC big plants in the 2-3 lb range as stated many many yrs ago.....He had experience from the greenhouse hydroponic veggie scene where he lived and from what he learned there was adapted into growin monster ass pot plants , and did it well I might add.....anyways.....that `s my tale and I`m sittin on it.....lol.....now.....
I used regular 2x4 studs with osb / plywood for the walls put together with screws so they could be tore down and re-used after 1 yr of growin and movin to the next foreclosure / location....Never stayed anywhere with plants longer than a yr for my own protection and paranoia......After that 1 yr enough was made to pay the house off , finish remodeling , and then put on the market as a rental property.....
Holler if I can help.....
Peace.....DHF.....
kingape
Active member
Wow!
That's quite the enterprising business model!
It's quite rare to learn from someone who has both, the experience and the soundness of facts based on science while growing!
Thanks a lot DHF for all the valuable advice!
ReservoirDog
New member
Nobody asked but nonetheless, I'm tellin', DHF knows, I'd abide near about every detail that you think might apply to you, which is all of 'em. These are all very sound and succinct enviro deets. Haha... "pot snobs" seriously, wtf died and made them Terp-Emporer Supreme? I don't recall either the election or war.
If'n you are the charts, stats, or the visual type I've attached a doc that backs up everything DHF just said. Not that I'm anybody who knows much, just enough to see the path ahead. Am grateful to this thread's participants, it's been a great read. If this helps please take it with my gratitude.
If'n you are the charts, stats, or the visual type I've attached a doc that backs up everything DHF just said. Not that I'm anybody who knows much, just enough to see the path ahead. Am grateful to this thread's participants, it's been a great read. If this helps please take it with my gratitude.
LJ farming
Active member
Kingape,
How’s your new set up coming along? I have already had to add an additional 100 gallon rez just to stay on top of mixing nutrients before I’m completely out. I am about to the point where I can’t fit one more thing in my current setup.
My question today is are you currently using Mr Fulvic? It is definitely creating a biofilm in my reservoir and the guy at the hydro shop suggested adding 1 ml of hydrogen peroxide per gallon and it would take care of it. He said 30+% hydrogen peroxide as well not the normal store bought 3%.
I am wondering if this will negate the Fulvic acid completely. I don’t want to ruin the benefits of the Fulvic acid by adding the peroxide.
I am not sure if you are currently using Bill Farthings recommended nutrients or will start once your new setup’s are complete. Either way maybe DHF will chime in if you do not have the same issue.
BTW today is the beginning of week 3 for me and so far Bills recipe has my plants looking just as good if not better than they ever have. I’m on the fence about using straight MPK like Eric on here suggests or using Homemade Hammerhead like Bill suggests. I have them both but at this point I will probably flip a coin unless you have a suggestion. I know DHF says he never used bloom booster's so that’s a possibility also but he ran GH Flora trio and maybe Jacks 3-2-1 needs the bloom booster and GH does not.
That’s all of the rambling I have time for now.
Peace out,
LJ
How’s your new set up coming along? I have already had to add an additional 100 gallon rez just to stay on top of mixing nutrients before I’m completely out. I am about to the point where I can’t fit one more thing in my current setup.
My question today is are you currently using Mr Fulvic? It is definitely creating a biofilm in my reservoir and the guy at the hydro shop suggested adding 1 ml of hydrogen peroxide per gallon and it would take care of it. He said 30+% hydrogen peroxide as well not the normal store bought 3%.
I am wondering if this will negate the Fulvic acid completely. I don’t want to ruin the benefits of the Fulvic acid by adding the peroxide.
I am not sure if you are currently using Bill Farthings recommended nutrients or will start once your new setup’s are complete. Either way maybe DHF will chime in if you do not have the same issue.
BTW today is the beginning of week 3 for me and so far Bills recipe has my plants looking just as good if not better than they ever have. I’m on the fence about using straight MPK like Eric on here suggests or using Homemade Hammerhead like Bill suggests. I have them both but at this point I will probably flip a coin unless you have a suggestion. I know DHF says he never used bloom booster's so that’s a possibility also but he ran GH Flora trio and maybe Jacks 3-2-1 needs the bloom booster and GH does not.
That’s all of the rambling I have time for now.
Peace out,
LJ
kingape
Active member
Hey!
Have you looked into getting a proportional doser, something like the dosatron?
It will make your rez size go down as you can automate it to make the nute water right before your scheduled watering?
IMO, it's safer as well because in case of equipment failure, the amount of water that floods is considerably less!.
I am using Fulvic Acid, but not Mr Fulvic so I can't comment on the biofilm issue, but the FA I am using is 80% and I have not noticed any biofilm formation.
I have been using the bloom booster (MPK) but I have not run enough grows to comment on whether it actually makes a difference.
There was a presentation that is linked in the Bill Farthing thread, it was made by some scientist to the Govt and it pretty much sums up the nute requirement of Cannabis, one good thing that I applied from that presentation was the Ca foliar application during the stretch phase.
LJ farming
Active member
No I have not looked into a dosatron. However it sounds like it costs a fortune. Lol. However The idea of a smaller flood makes it sound like it is worth it. If it does Ph and nutrients all I can say is WOW. I guess I know what I will be reading about tonight.
The 34% Hydrogen Peroxide cleared up the biofilm overnight basically I just hope it’s not canceling all the good things the Fulvic is doing.
I have been foliar spraying the no N CalMag that Bill recommend. Like I said before I changed everything in my new room. Everything definitely looks better than it ever has but I’m only 2 weeks into flower so I don’t want too get too excited yet. I can’t say which part or combination of the changes has helped the most because I changed everything. Grow medium, lighting, DTW, nutrients, sealed room, different pots, environment controller, etc. I honestly don’t know cant think of one thing that has not been changed accept the last three HPS lights that need to be changed to LED.
The 34% Hydrogen Peroxide cleared up the biofilm overnight basically I just hope it’s not canceling all the good things the Fulvic is doing.
I have been foliar spraying the no N CalMag that Bill recommend. Like I said before I changed everything in my new room. Everything definitely looks better than it ever has but I’m only 2 weeks into flower so I don’t want too get too excited yet. I can’t say which part or combination of the changes has helped the most because I changed everything. Grow medium, lighting, DTW, nutrients, sealed room, different pots, environment controller, etc. I honestly don’t know cant think of one thing that has not been changed accept the last three HPS lights that need to be changed to LED.
