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Preview of my pl-l micro closet.

Easygrowing

Active member
Veteran
Ok bare slet hvis noget bras.Osse forstået det er på forsøgsvis endnu.Selv gået i lysbehandling med netop UV-B da denne ikke trænger så langt ind,hvilket jo ikke er ønskeligt vel,da mugsporer jo opstår eller sætter sig på overflader og derfor ikke et must og trænge så langt ind,at dette ændrer DNA ?..Det jo det samme,som er i solarie og skadeligt B altså..men vil læse noget mere om det og dine tråde.

Herligt med en som går så meget ind i det.Har meget og lære endnu heldigvis.

Go aften
 

Mk3Jetta

Member
Wow superpedro! Those plants look great and its good to hear youve got the spider mite problem hopefully taken care of.

I'm gonna be waiting for that aero sog business to happen!
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
That's so interesting. I reckon the uv thing would work (hah, like I would know). That'd be great if it was all in the cab on timers when you need it. Maybe an led to warn you when it's active so you don't look in at a bad time. Way cool idea :yes:
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
That's so interesting. I reckon the uv thing would work (hah, like I would know). That'd be great if it was all in the cab on timers when you need it. Maybe an led to warn you when it's active so you don't look in at a bad time. Way cool idea :yes:

That would be the way to do it. Cool idea with the LED.
Here is a link to a pdf file with conclusions from a test run on roses. You may not be able to understand it since it is in my language, but you will find an interesting picture on page 8 :)
The result of the test was zero plants infected with mildew, while the plants not getting hit by the light suffered even though they were treated with the common mildew protection.
There was no damage to the plants. I would be surpriced if it had a negative effect on canna, but I'm going to find out.
The other stuff is just about minimizing stretch by physical stress.
http://danskeprydplanter.dk/download.php?id=315
 
T

THC_Decapitator

that was a fun read through and you have one heck of a even canopy filled with buds . Very nice
 

Tonatiuh

its me Dave man open up the door...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
canopy is looking great bro.nice thread too man i been lurkin just dont always have time to post.
great work.peace-T-
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Thanks pedro, looks very cool. So, the big question - how much do you think you'll yield? :smokeit:
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Thanks a lot for watching guys!

Thanks pedro, looks very cool. So, the big question - how much do you think you'll yield? :smokeit:
I haven't really thought that much about it, I guess with the shitty soil and super fast strain and so on, I would be pretty satisfied if I got 150g from this first run.
I also believe the SOG method, or SCROG with fewer buds will be much better for the pl-l setup.
I've made this scrog like I would under a hps bulb, and got a very dense carpet, but after I tried the pl-l's, I'm sure the key to a big yield with those lights, is buds easier getting hit by allot of multi angle light all the way down.

:thanks:
 

ScrubNinja

Grow like nobody is watching
Veteran
Cool man, I think you'll hit it no worries :yes: I totally agree about the spacing, mine was way too thick too. I think I would have got Boom-style colas if I had less branches, and probably highest yield that way.

Edit: I had an idea too, but I know it's too involved to actually do - instead of an led, it could activate an electronic lock so the door just can't be opened at those times.
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Thanks mate. Fresh input is always very welcome :)

I just had an idea I would like to share.

The glass plate on top of my cap is a bit hot near the base of the bulbs, that is from the infrared radiation of the higher working temperature at the base.
The way I air cool the bulbs, it think giving the bulbs extra surface at the base would bring down the working temperature. It would have an impact on the lifetime of the bulb as well - if it works.
Can't wait until Monday, but I don't have any thermo glue or cooling paste, so I have too. :(
Lightcooler.jpg

"Wings" made from aluminum, I want them all the way round the base.

What do you guys think about this idea?
 

fatigues

Active member
Veteran
Thanks mate. Fresh input is always very welcome :)

I just had an idea I would like to share.

The glass plate on top of my cap is a bit hot near the base of the bulbs, that is from the infrared radiation of the higher working temperature at the base.
The way I air cool the bulbs, it think giving the bulbs extra surface at the base would bring down the working temperature. It would have an impact on the lifetime of the bulb as well - if it works.
Can't wait until Monday, but I don't have any thermo glue or cooling paste, so I have too. :(

"Wings" made from aluminum, I want them all the way round the base.

What do you guys think about this idea?

Aerohead measured the temperature of his 55w pll bulbs and reported 163F at the base and 88F at the tip.

This accords with my sense of their temps too, FWIW.

I'm not sure that the plastic is really going to give you sufficient heat conduction where the heat will be bled off of the base to any significantly useful degree, in the sense that heat damage to the base of the bulb would be reduced. I doubt it, frankly. The heat buildup is still going to thermally transfer to the glass bulb more readily than to the plastic - winged or not.

I think a better approach would be to save your dollars spent on paste and aluminum (alternatively, save your Dremel bits and your old CPU heatsinks) and instead put your time and effort into using active air cooling on the bases of the bulbs.

$30 spent on CPU fans (or more $$ on a S&P TD-100) is going to accomplish much more cooling for far less effort, imo.
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Aerohead measured the temperature of his 55w pll bulbs and reported 163F at the base and 88F at the tip.

This accords with my sense of their temps too, FWIW.

I'm not sure that the plastic is really going to give you sufficient heat conduction where the heat will be bled off of the base to any significantly useful degree, in the sense that heat damage to the base of the bulb would be reduced. I doubt it, frankly. The heat buildup is still going to thermally transfer to the glass bulb more readily than to the plastic - winged or not.

I think a better approach would be to save your dollars spent on paste and aluminum (alternatively, save your Dremel bits and your old CPU heatsinks) and instead put your time and effort into using active air cooling on the bases of the bulbs.

$30 spent on CPU fans (or more $$ on a S&P TD-100) is going to accomplish much more cooling for far less effort, imo.
Hey
I cool my pll top with 5 fans already, but I need my cap to be able to run at <18 degrees C, since I have some other types of plants that need cool environment I grow in between canna. This make all lowtech solutions helpful.

One of my pll's have a caramic base, but the rest, like you said is plastic :(
Hope santa brings me an IR thermometer this Xmas to see if it does anything at all.

I get the thin alu from old cans btw.
 

fatigues

Active member
Veteran
Hey
The base of my pl-l's isn't plastic, but a heat conducting ceramic.

I get the thin alu from old cans btw.

Oh? Well then. That definitely changes things.

Screw the old-cans-for-aluminum-strips ghetto approach! Get our your Dremel and marshall up some CPU heatsinks and have at it :)

And to think I was all proud of my pin-locking 2G11 plastic sockets. *sigh*
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
Thanks for your inputs fatigues. Makes me rethink the approach
base.jpg

since this is what my favorite bulb's base looks like(Couldn't help myself:D :D :D), I guess an extreme solution would be to clean the base off leaving only the tubes and the four connectors, make an alublock with with heatsink and holes for them, fit the bulbs in the holes with cooling paste, solder the wires to a connector plate on the back.
It would take some hours to remove the bases, but if running 6 Triton's all the way next time turns out with a good result, I think it would be worth doing once a year..
 

superpedro

Member
Veteran
I thought it was going to be almost too much work, but with a dremmel, a razorblade and soldering iron this was done in 15 minuttes.
ready.jpg


Now I have to go to the scrab yard to find cheap stuff for a 6 bulb base, I'm thinking of making a completely new lamp for the next grow based on this.

Day 42, Ladies on a diet.
d42.jpg
 

fatigues

Active member
Veteran
I thought it was going to be almost too much work, but with a dremmel, a razorblade and soldering iron this was done in 15 minuttes.

Now I have to go to the scrab yard to find cheap stuff for a 6 bulb base, I'm thinking of making a completely new lamp for the next grow based on this.

Fearless modding. Always admire that. :)

Bring it on!
 

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