precision cooling hoods using outdoor and indoor air

[Budweiser13]

Well the rigid ducting is the 10" coming up form under the house in the back of the room. Saddle taps are the 6' reducers you see that he tek screwed onto the side of the hard rigid 10" duct you have to cut a hole in the 10" then screw the saddle taps over the holes so you can connect 6" ducting over to your hoods. I beleive the saddle taps have some weather sealing on the end tha gets screwed to the 10" to seal them. I think you would get the rigid 10" pipes form an HVAC wholesale house. Same applies to the exhaust 10" ridgid pipe with 6" saddle taps I guess you just choose where ver on the hard pipe to put your 6" taps. Sorry thats about all I know still learning...

 

[nUt_jOb]

Nut Job, here in the Pacific Northwest we are experiencing a very cool Spring, and outside air temps are providing the grow with cool air for the hoods and cooling for the Clone room as well Veg and Flower rooms.

tystik

Ty - For a "sealed room" like smurfin is designing... are you sure? No in and out vents.. the lights would be the only things exposed to outside air. Are you sure no AC for this? I dont live in a place thats still seeing temperatures in the single digits so I cant swear to it but for my sealed room, climate conditioning was a year round issue.

For those still confused about the system we are talking about for light cooling.. and are FAR too lazy to use the search function of this site...


----[INLET FAN]------------+----------+---------+---------+
I I I I
[HOOD] [HOOD] [HOOD] [HOOD]
I I I I
I I I I
[HOOD] [HOOD] [HOOD] [HOOD]
I I I I
---[EXHAUST FAN]-----------+----------+---------+---------+


Well sorry this damn thing wont post ASCII pictures correctly.. The "I"s are 6" duct between inlet header and exaust headers with the hoods in between.. just try and visualize them being in the right place (between the "+" signs from top to bottom). The inlet and outlet headers would be 10" rigid box or whatever you want.. If you cant figure it out...

 

[yukino_asano]

You could push or pull depending on your preferences.

Look correct?

 

[Guest]

Regarding pairs of 1000 watters, I was referring to 6 pairs of them as opposed to 6 pair of 600's.

Regarding a sealed room, or non sealed for that matter, I thought that I had mentioned that I have a 12,000 btu/h A/C for backup. Hmmmm, must have been in another reply to another one of the "peeps".

If he is not going to run CO2 he will need a source of Fresh Air and an exhaust point somewhere in the grow area.

Budweiser, you nailed the description re: rigid ducting. He can pick up an air powered sheet metal nibbler for around $12.00 from "Harbor Freight.com". Providing he can beg, borrow, or has an air compressor to run it.

Rigid ducting is stocked at most major Home Improvement Centers, you need only to snap it together and join however many sections, elbows, T-s, end caps, and saddle taps as needed with sheet metal screws and sealed with "Duct Tape". In my area the Improvement stores do not stock the saddle taps, those were acquired from Genesco, a supplier to the trades.

Regarding concrete floors, if it is your home penetrate the wall at floor level, preferably at the North wall where the sun will not be an issue. Put a painters paint strainer bag over the opening, secured by a large hose clamp, to keep the bugs and critters out. If you can duct out through the wall, do so. This will avoid a humidity issue in the attic if you are running a number of plants and lights.

tystik

 

[Guest]

Yukino---------excellent layout for 1000's. Glad you posted it, I ain't for shat when it comes to posting drawings/diagrams.

tystik

 

[Guest]

Smurfin-----did you find the info in the Grainger Catalog under the heading I gave you in the Products Index?? I have that catalog here, and it is whopping 4070 pages. Thats right, 4070.

tystik

 

[Guest]

Regarding pairs of 1000 watters, I was referring to 6 pairs of them as opposed to 6 pair of 600's.

Regarding a sealed room, or non sealed for that matter, I thought that I had mentioned that I have a 12,000 btu/h A/C for backup. Hmmmm, must have been in another reply to another one of the "peeps".

If he is not going to run CO2 he will need a source of Fresh Air and an exhaust point somewhere in the grow area.

Budweiser, you nailed the description re: rigid ducting. He can pick up an air powered sheet metal nibbler for around $12.00 from "Harbor Freight.com". Providing he can beg, borrow, or has an air compressor to run it.

Rigid ducting is stocked at most major Home Improvement Centers, you need only to snap it together and join however many sections, elbows, T-s, end caps, and saddle taps as needed with sheet metal screws and sealed with "Duct Tape". In my area the Improvement stores do not stock the saddle taps, those were acquired from Genesco, a supplier to the trades. I believe they can be found at "Genesco.com".

Regarding concrete floors, if it is your home penetrate the wall at floor level, preferably at the North wall where the sun will not be an issue. Put a painters paint strainer bag over the opening, secured by a large hose clamp, to keep the bugs and critters out. If you can duct out through the wall, do so. This will avoid a humidity issue in the attic if you are running a number of plants and lights.

 

[nUt_jOb]

Yuki - yup thats correct.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

You could push or pull depending on your preferences.

Look correct?

i dont understand how this provides equal cooling to all the hoods...
there has to be one hot light...
in physics we learened that air will take the path of least resistance....
from my lessions with smoke and air i would know that the top and bottom provide the least resistance and middle two should recieve decreased or less air-flow then the other two...

stack two hoods in a row on each line and you really have turbulant-resistance in the middle two.

i supposed the actual cooling might be sufficiant i shouldnt speek if i havent ran it.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

i still dont see how that spaghetti factory of ducting cools all the lights evenly. some of thoes elbows and extensive runs have to add drag and resistance...

 

[smurfin'herb]

spaghetti factory!!

 

[Budweiser13]

That spagetti factory is the most efficient way to run air cooled hoods
Ty-Stik has good experience with HVAC systems. Yes I am sure there is some drag (Resistance) with air cooled hoods they are not perfectly designed for perfect air flow....

 

[yukino_asano]

Yukino---------excellent layout for 1000's. Glad you posted it, I ain't for shat when it comes to posting drawings/diagrams.

tystik

Yuki - yup thats correct.

Thanks!

sometime easier to see a diagram.

 

[yukino_asano]

i dont understand how this provides equal cooling to all the hoods...
there has to be one hot light...
in physics we learened that air will take the path of least resistance....
from my lessions with smoke and air i would know that the top and bottom provide the least resistance and middle two should recieve decreased or less air-flow then the other two...

stack two hoods in a row on each line and you really have turbulant-resistance in the middle two.

i supposed the actual cooling might be sufficiant i shouldnt speek if i havent ran it.

The additional size of the intake exhuast helps.

Also the overkill fans also help.

In addition, hard lines are used (as much as possible) rather than fleixible ducting to make it more efficient.

 

[rr14]

if I recall, discount hydro has some vent things that open when power is applied and close when power is not applied. You can control them using a temperature controller. You'll need to get one of each; one that closes when power is applied and one that opens when power is applied.

 

[Guest]

i agree with budweiser, i have no idea what a large manifold duct is, or rigid ducting, or even a saddle tap. im confused with this terminology. and i cant tell whats goin on in that pic, a diagram would be awesome!!

Smurfin..............you break my heart son-----goddammit, you can't learn shit playing stink finger with the girl that sits in front of you in a classroom.

Learning means study, cracking the books , not pulling cheats off the notes of others.

DO YOU really expect to move forward in life by reading someones elses
notes??? or to learn from gained knowledge, by the sweat of YOUR own BALLS?

tystik

PS: I forgot-------------the Black Messiah, Obama, will put a chicken in every pot., a VW in every garage and folksters sing "Kumbiya" (sp)

 

[Guest]

SMURFIN---YOU, yes You---you asked a question, I gave it my best, and YOU hadn't the courtesy to answer or give a reach around. YOU are new, study grasshopper.

tystik

PS: By the way, show me yours, I Will show you mine.

 

[Guest]

thx ty. dang that sure is a comprehensive list they have there... could u tell me a more direct way to access what u are describing on that link?

I am going to ASK you just one more time SMURFIN...................did YOU ever bother bother to study the issues regarding the cultivation of HERB?

tystik

 

[smurfin'herb]

of course, what makes you think i cant grow?

 

[yukino_asano]

if I recall, discount hydro has some vent things that open when power is applied and close when power is not applied. You can control them using a temperature controller. You'll need to get one of each; one that closes when power is applied and one that opens when power is applied.

motorized duct damper is the technical term. lol

That way we don't sound like a stoner fool when we ask the hvac guys for one.

You can wire em up to a timer or humidistat etc.