darthvapor
Active member
sulpher burner is cheap insurance
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
- Start date
How does the sulpur burners work? And they smell bad too? How about the plants, will they smell after you use it, or is it possible to "blow yor area off" aftewards?..
Anyone know where to buy sulphur burnes in europe?
-ok, no need to answer the abowe.. read some about them just now. Still interested in an european dealer though.
Im trying out foilaring with demiralised water pH @9,5.. so far looking good.. will update in a few days when I can see the result.
Anyone know where to buy sulphur burnes in europe?
-ok, no need to answer the abowe.. read some about them just now. Still interested in an european dealer though.
Im trying out foilaring with demiralised water pH @9,5.. so far looking good.. will update in a few days when I can see the result.
Last edited:
darthvapor
Active member
yes you can use sulpher during flower, you can also use serenade but not to far into flower. Since I got a sulpher burner Ive had no problems. I also filter incoming air too.
norcalkell
Member
sulfer burner.. i had it bad w/ purple kush and used it once late flowering everything was ok..
B
bighogg
bought Dutch Master 'Zone' and 'Penetrator' to spray on plants for PM....can't dip them anymore, but wouldn't want to for this experiment. # 15.
CelebrityKush
Member
bighogg- make sure you spray all of the plant and spray every 4-5 days for about a month. after a month hopefully it will be gone for good. 
bongorilla
Member
Zone and Penetrator!
Zone and Penetrator!
that is the only thing that works. seems PM has mutated these days and become more infectious and resistant to most treatment options. everything I've tried seemed to slow it down at best. this formula really works and I tried everything. Protector by AN is a joke, along with serenade and the home remedies. Outside of the grow pad hook a bottle of Immunox to a spray hose and wipe out infestations in the yard, lawn, bushes, etc. burn sulpher in veg 1x per week wether there is PM or not. In flower zone and penetrator dipped or heavily sprayed. walls should be painted with mildew proof paint. AC's can be sprayed with tea tree oil, also ozone generators brought to very hi levels help sterilize the growroom between cycles. and HEPA on the intake is a must. I can now say I think I got it wiped out completely.
Thanks Mark. that's a genious formula.
Zone and Penetrator!
that is the only thing that works. seems PM has mutated these days and become more infectious and resistant to most treatment options. everything I've tried seemed to slow it down at best. this formula really works and I tried everything. Protector by AN is a joke, along with serenade and the home remedies. Outside of the grow pad hook a bottle of Immunox to a spray hose and wipe out infestations in the yard, lawn, bushes, etc. burn sulpher in veg 1x per week wether there is PM or not. In flower zone and penetrator dipped or heavily sprayed. walls should be painted with mildew proof paint. AC's can be sprayed with tea tree oil, also ozone generators brought to very hi levels help sterilize the growroom between cycles. and HEPA on the intake is a must. I can now say I think I got it wiped out completely.
Thanks Mark. that's a genious formula.
mark6699331 said:
Last edited:
bighogg said:
Could you list the ingredients of "zone" for me, please? I think it’s another copper/sulfur spray... People have been using copper and sulfur for a long time on fruit trees, to stop fungus, mold, and bacteria growth but it will not kill whats already there...
For clones, when I cut them from the plant I dip them in a 10% bleach solution then root'em, I dip them again in a 10% bleach solution and have been using 1 Table spoon Bordeaux powder to 32 fluid ounces of water as a spray when I put them in veg...
Hope this helps...
CelebrityKush
Member
420247 said:
Zone is derived from....Potassium Nitrate, Ammonium Nitrate Potassium Hydroxide, Copper Sulphate.
it has an npk of 0.09 - 0 - 0.26
Cheap sulphur burner =
electric hotplate about $10 from drugstore
small oven-safe (ceramic or Pyrex) bowl
sulphur pellets from hydro store
A handful of pellets in the bowl is sufficient.
put burner on LOW setting, maybe a touch above low. You want the pellets to melt and become liquid at which point it will smoke VERY lightly. It should stay yellowish, too high of a setting will make it turn brown and burn.
Use a timer, run for at least a half hour.
Safety:
Even with a timer, I stay close by. (but not in the room, bleh)
Put hotplate up high as possible but on something safe and stable
turn off exhaust/intake, but I keep one circulation fan on the ground pointing up. USE ONLY DURING LIGHTS OFF! really sucks to learn that lesson the hard way (sulphur will burn and bleach the plants WHITE). After burning, give the sulphur another hour or so to settle on all surfaces before turning on exhaust fans.
I try to limit burning to veg and up to mid-flower, but a friend has burned in late flower and spray rinses the plants with plain water before harvest with (according to him) no adverse effects. My worry is sulphur in the resin glands won't rinse out?
My experience with sprays and dips was that they turn pistils brown which really sucks to see in early flower. the burner doesn't seem to do this.
Comments?
electric hotplate about $10 from drugstore
small oven-safe (ceramic or Pyrex) bowl
sulphur pellets from hydro store
A handful of pellets in the bowl is sufficient.
put burner on LOW setting, maybe a touch above low. You want the pellets to melt and become liquid at which point it will smoke VERY lightly. It should stay yellowish, too high of a setting will make it turn brown and burn.
Use a timer, run for at least a half hour.
Safety:
Even with a timer, I stay close by. (but not in the room, bleh)
Put hotplate up high as possible but on something safe and stable
turn off exhaust/intake, but I keep one circulation fan on the ground pointing up. USE ONLY DURING LIGHTS OFF! really sucks to learn that lesson the hard way (sulphur will burn and bleach the plants WHITE). After burning, give the sulphur another hour or so to settle on all surfaces before turning on exhaust fans.
I try to limit burning to veg and up to mid-flower, but a friend has burned in late flower and spray rinses the plants with plain water before harvest with (according to him) no adverse effects. My worry is sulphur in the resin glands won't rinse out?
My experience with sprays and dips was that they turn pistils brown which really sucks to see in early flower. the burner doesn't seem to do this.
Comments?
Sulfer burners produce elemental Sulfur which is really small atoms of it. Works for control not eradication. A sulfur burner costs $100 and lasts for years and is pretty safe if used correctly. alot can go wrong with a hotplate with flammable sulpher on it. Like buring your house down! I would invest in the safest way to burn sulfur. The local store will not even sell them cos they are pretty dangerous so a hotplate is much more dangerous. Be careful.
I picked up some Zone and Penetrator today, luckily my one stop hydro shop had both. I told the guy what I was using these for and he said I was crazy, tried to sell me on some other stuff and then changed his mind and said sulphur is the only thing that works if in flower. I sprayed my 3 clones with one of each method, pH9 H2O, H2O2 and the PZ combo. they all seemed to remove most of the pm but I still found some hiding where the spray would not reach. I think I will have to setup a dunking container but it will be tricky with a screen attached to the plants. This will not be cheap either since it takes a lot of one of them in each solution so I might have to remove the screen, fill a 1L soda bottle and try to dip each branch into this bottle.
Any ideas how often the solution should be changed out if doing multiple dips? I really hope this stuff works so I can smoke this Djank!
Any ideas how often the solution should be changed out if doing multiple dips? I really hope this stuff works so I can smoke this Djank!
B
bighogg
no. but spray them with a 3% Hydrogen Peroxide solution right before harvest. make sure to dry them throughly and quickly with a fan. then when you harvest them (only if's REAL bad) give 'em good shake to get out as many of the fungi as possible. it's unfortunate and unacceptable to have this crap, but it happens....
My biggest plant, the lavender was covered with PM. I sprayed it down with some pH9 water and surprisingly, about a week later, I could barely find the PM! I didnt go through with the dip because I decided to cut it all down so I can direct my full attention to some other areas of my life for now.
If you are going to try a dip, I might suggest spraying them down first to help the water saturate the nuggs. Just dipping a bud under water for a couple seconds, the water or dipping solution wont necessarily penetrate all the areas you need it to. Maybe you can add a tiny bit of detergent to the solution or maybe the penetrator and zone make the water more soluable.
I did spray some nuggs with pH9.4 water, then shook them vigorously under the same water and rinsed with plain water to try and remove the PM. They are under water now for a cure and I'll let you know how these turn out..
If you are going to try a dip, I might suggest spraying them down first to help the water saturate the nuggs. Just dipping a bud under water for a couple seconds, the water or dipping solution wont necessarily penetrate all the areas you need it to. Maybe you can add a tiny bit of detergent to the solution or maybe the penetrator and zone make the water more soluable.
I did spray some nuggs with pH9.4 water, then shook them vigorously under the same water and rinsed with plain water to try and remove the PM. They are under water now for a cure and I'll let you know how these turn out..
Last edited:
mark6699331
Active member
dudes and dudettes- i live in a climate where its 80% humidity and 40-60F -perfect pm conditions and i've eraticated it completely. You are all barking up the wrong tree. That hydro guy that told you that you were crazy is crazy. I got this info from the dutch master people themselves through my local hydro store.
I've reduced the rates on the zone to 2-5ml/gallon. Still use the penetrater at full strength. THe penetrater is the KEY to the combo cause it makes it SYSTEMIC. THat white shit is the spores or babies. You aren't trying to kill that. You need to kill the HYPHAE that penetrate the cells and suck the life out of the plant. Best time to spray or dip is when you DON'T see white spores. Break the life cycly just like with fleas for cats/dogs.
Zone Penetrator is the ONLY thing i've seen work. And it works great. Messing around with ph water and humidity you might as well be spinning your wheels meanwhile you are losing your medicine.
Google up pm life cycle and see what i'm talking about with the hyphae.
And yes the copper sulfate helps in it- but the other ingredients are key cataylsts and the penetrater makes it systemic....
Its the only way i've found folks.
And yes unrooted cuttings are fine at 1-2ml/gallon zone and fulll strength penetrater. It also kills stem rot for unroooted cuts. The cuts love it. I reguluary spray mist my cuts as a preventitive and esp. if i EVER take in a new cut from someone else i quaraanteene it and zone the fuck out of it.
Most of all clubs in cali have pm infected cuts. You won't see it without a super strong microscope or until the spores fruit (the white powder). And this is a shame casue sick people can die from smoking pm infested meds.
M
I've reduced the rates on the zone to 2-5ml/gallon. Still use the penetrater at full strength. THe penetrater is the KEY to the combo cause it makes it SYSTEMIC. THat white shit is the spores or babies. You aren't trying to kill that. You need to kill the HYPHAE that penetrate the cells and suck the life out of the plant. Best time to spray or dip is when you DON'T see white spores. Break the life cycly just like with fleas for cats/dogs.
Zone Penetrator is the ONLY thing i've seen work. And it works great. Messing around with ph water and humidity you might as well be spinning your wheels meanwhile you are losing your medicine.
Google up pm life cycle and see what i'm talking about with the hyphae.
And yes the copper sulfate helps in it- but the other ingredients are key cataylsts and the penetrater makes it systemic....
Its the only way i've found folks.
And yes unrooted cuttings are fine at 1-2ml/gallon zone and fulll strength penetrater. It also kills stem rot for unroooted cuts. The cuts love it. I reguluary spray mist my cuts as a preventitive and esp. if i EVER take in a new cut from someone else i quaraanteene it and zone the fuck out of it.
Most of all clubs in cali have pm infected cuts. You won't see it without a super strong microscope or until the spores fruit (the white powder). And this is a shame casue sick people can die from smoking pm infested meds.
M
Frog
Member
I can tell you first hand that mark6699331 knows what he's talking about. I found if done right that nasty PM will disappear. Have'nt had any in 6months since following his instructions (thanks again mark). Took my growroom down to a couple of mom's and did it to them and have been happy since. Give it a try!!!
Peace
Peace
mark6699331
Active member
Yeah GO FROG!!!!!!!!!!! I love to hear success stories! I haven't had pm in one year two months now even on my OG and OG crosses.
YEAH!!! DIE PM DIE!!!! LOL
It really is the ONLY thing i found to work and i"ve tried it ALL!
Good Luck,
M
YEAH!!! DIE PM DIE!!!! LOL
It really is the ONLY thing i found to work and i"ve tried it ALL!
Good Luck,
M
