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PLL Club. (if you don't know, now you know)

oldone

Member
Sweet, thanks oldone, its funny that pll didnt get half as many results as 2g11. Got an AH#3 on the go too, it took well to topping and supercropping, the lower branches are at the same level as the top, its a nice bush before going into flower. Hows yours coming along? The screen filled out the space nicely. Nice cab
I think the PLL thing is a trademark from the original manufacturer. They all use 2g11s though.

My AH3 lady has taken all kinds of abuse and it has'nt fazed her at all (so far). I have not topped her just a crush and bend but she didnt even wilt.

Do you have a thread somewhere?
OO
 

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
I think the PLL thing is a trademark from the original manufacturer. They all use 2g11s though.

My AH3 lady has taken all kinds of abuse and it has'nt fazed her at all (so far). I have not topped her just a crush and bend but she didnt even wilt.

Do you have a thread somewhere?
OO

high guys, i believe the 'P' in PL-L refers to Philips,
the bulb manufacturer.

peace, SOG
 
M

Milhouse

I should have prefaced that they actually started veg under 2-26 watt spiral 6500k for a week or so when they first sprouted. Then went under 330 watt of pll. They didn't seem Lanky at all. Just chopped yesterday, currently pinned up and drying.
 

sx646522

Member
4100K will do you fine as the overall spectrum from PL-Ls is far broader than HPS or MH lights (meaning there is already LOTS of 6500k spectrum light in a so called "4100k lamp"...

I'm sure Scrub would agree, fatigues (and oldone!). He's done every grow with 4100K so far (except for the CCFL) if I recall, and no one would call his results scrawny. ;)

(Now that he's gone almost completely off the grid, though...solar panel supplemental PL-L/CCFL for outside growing? What's the world coming to? ;) )

While this is a PLL thread, I swear by 'em myself and they're definitely cheaper (than LEDs), it's worth noting that there are an almost infinite number of combinations of wavelengths to get 'white', or to approximate any particular Kelvin rating. Your basic fluorescent light, including the Philips 4100K example below (TL841's), have a rather broken-up and haphazard, narrow distribution of lighting within the individual color bands, all told:

picture.php


This will vary by manufacturer to manufacturer for any particular K, also - sometimes quite markedly.
------------------

Look at the LED in contrast. Both the Philips LUXEON Rebel White and General Purpose White (4000K) have a nice, even, nearly Gaussian distribution from the phosphor-coated emitted spectrums - as it should:

picture.php


picture.php

(Bottom pic is a LXML-PWN1-xxxx)

While the warm white LEDs still leave something to be desired efficiency-wise, the neutral whites above are now pretty close to the cool white in efficiency ( > 100 lumens/watt now for good bins), and have a decent spectrum for Chlorophyll A/B, in addition to all the associated accessory pigments. (Plenty of blue also in the mix naturally, as the vast majority of white LEDs are simply phosphor-coated blues, after all...)

Note that since even the best T5 reflectors will still lose you ~35-40% of the total light intensity emitted by the tube, when comparing PLL to LED use a ~0.6 factor on the fluorescents to get comparable lumens (i.e. 4000 PL-L lumens =(+-) 2400 LED lumens unless you're doing a vertical, in-the-round. YES, it's still better to measure actual PAR, for all the reasons above, but in the absence of a good PAR meter and using white LEDs...)
--------------

While we're at it, here's a bit more information on why a little Green is actually useful for plants, too:

Green Light Drives CO2 Fixation Deep within Leaves

Green Light Drives Leaf Photosynthesis More Efficiently than Red Light in Strong White Light: Revisiting the Enigmatic Question of Why Leaves are Green

(2nd link has been posted before I believe, the first one is 'new' here - and explains things much more clearly)

Without a little green (and yellow) in the mix, it's kinda like running a car on 6 cylinders instead of 8. You'll still get there, just not quite as fast, or in as much style. Worth a read to help illuminate (no pun intended) a common misconception.

(accessory pigments will absorb light in the green/yellow wavelengths, do biochemical 'work', and then emit (fluoresce) light in a lower wavelength - some of which is then absorbed and used by the next molecule in the chain. Kinda like regenerative braking in an electric car. Waste not, want not. Plants are pretty cool, no? :)

Cheers mates, :bump:

-SX
 

yesum

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
So is there agreement on best spectrum for flowering? 3000k is the easy answer, but some say 4100 or 6500 gives better resin and harder nugs. I might get a 4100k and split the diff so to speak.
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
about to start flowering in the next couple days. Currently i have (all 55 watt) two 4100k, one 6400k, and one 3000k for my vegging plants. due to my second 6400k breaking i had to replace it with the 3000k.

SO, my question is: should i leave the current spectrum setup as is for the 12/12 flowering switch to add a broader spectrum OR should i replace the current 6400k (veg. bulb) with my second 3000k bulb.






Cliffs:

Flowering:
A.) 3000k, 4100k, 4100k, 6400k?
B.) 3000k, 3000k, 4100k, 4100k?

which would you choose? Thanks!
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
ha thanks Fatigues..rep. coming your way! thats what i figured as well with the bulbs available to me.

EDIT:"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to fatigues again." grrrr...
 
Anyone considered a vertical scrog in a cabinet with 6 x 55's? think it would work pretty well considering it would be about three times the growing space (6sft at ~55 watts psf)
 

bren

Member
i had a maxibright pl2 but it broke think it was the ballast, i've had right hassel as the shop i got it froms closed called the suppliers and took it to another shop only for them to return it to the suppliers i called been nearly 2 weeks n not heard anything back yet after looking through hear it might of been easier to just replace the ballast myself, my light runs 2 55w and i'm in the uk 240v i think i'll find one
 
lol sorry i meant to line the wall with pll's not like in the centre but have a wall of light with a vertical scrog in a cupboard.
 

big twinn

Super Member
Veteran
take a look at my thread...see the signature. only 4 55watters tho, not 6...looking into LEDs next.

updates in the thread coming this week...just found my memory card converter for my laptop...i have a SHIT ton of pictures to add...vertical is the way to go imo
 

fatigues

Active member
Veteran
lol sorry i meant to line the wall with pll's not like in the centre but have a wall of light with a vertical scrog in a cupboard.

One of the most influential PL-L grows on ICM used a perimeter lighting of 6x55w PL-L.

The link to the High-pod is here.
 

kzaman1

New member
Thank you

Thank you

I'm a lurker who has to say a huuuge thank you!!! I've spent most of my time in the micro section and i've ready pretty much every pll journal/thread on ICmag... As i think PLL and micro/stealth are the ideal combination.

I've learned a vast amount from the following people... Scrubninja, melkor420, boleman, aerohead, donkeypunch, fsaebud, ukganjafarmer, infectulize, D.I.try, superpedro, hydro-soil, mexicangreen420, Anti, BigTwinn, JRW AND Tilt.

So i must say thank you all for the knowledge you've shared!!!

I've probably missed a few folks... So apologies but i think i got the main folks who have opened my eyes to the PLL revolution...

Ciao!
 

Tilt

Member
can i run pl-l lamps with t5 ballast?or osram ,philips have this kind of ballasts?i would like for
4x55w

depends... The ballast will usually have a list of lamps and configurations listed on the front ( by the way I use t8 32 4 lamp electronic ballasts to run 2 55 watt pll lamps at a time $15.00 home depot)
 

maree

Member
Dulux L wiring queries

Dulux L wiring queries

Hi again - a little while ago I asked a question regarding wiring my Osram Dulux L's to QTP-DL Quicktronic ballasts. Someotherguy and Garuda very kindly helped me out but I'm not too quick on th eup take and I need a little more info.

Managed to wire lamps to ballast -I think! Used 1mm solid core stripped out of twin and earth lighting cable. Now I need to connect the ballast to the mains. I intend using the same cable, intact of course. Got two questions:

1. Which hole number - 1 or 2 does the live (brown in the UK) feed into and, by default, where does the neutral go (blue UK)?

2. The ballast states that there's no need to connect a functional earth but I was gonna cos I have an earth wire in the cable and I thought it might make the whole thing safer. Would I be doing any harm if I did?

I've put the pic of the ballast up again so you can see what I'm on about. You can jsut see two black dots in the bottom left hand corner to indicate where the leads should go. Unfortunately, I don't recognise the symbols - accept the one for the earth on hole 4 and I don't need to use it!

Any help would be much appreciated!

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