What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Please help save my grow!

tree&leaf

Member
headshot said:
someone please help, I know its still soon since watering but she hasnt shown any signs of improvement yet

Lots of interesting thoughts on what could be causing your plant problem.

Unlikely to be a ph problem with the water you're using and your leaf damage isn't really consistent with an out of whack ph. Your lower leaf clearly has some kind of deficiency going on there, either Mg or N, it wouldn't be anything else. As others have mentioned, your soil is well fertilised, so why a deficiency so early on? There's only one probable cause left - incorrect under/over watering, it's the most common new grower error, welcome to growing by the way!

If you're only watering sections of soil, around the base of the plant? Or not fully saturating the pot with water thus leaving air and dry soil pockets? All those roots growing out in exploration of moisture and nutrients are hitting dry patches of soil, and the plant can only extract moisture and nutrients from moist soil. That's probably what's caused your deficiency in what should otherwise be well fertilised soil.

Your problem is compounded by having the plant in too large a pot as others have righty point out, this merely makes the liklihood and negative affect of incorrect watering even more apparent, ie it exaggerates the problem.

You need to give the container a good saturating with water all over and all the way round preferably with a watering can with a sprinkler. The sprinkler helps to penetrate and saturate the soil better and of course 'emulates' the natural effect of rain by pushing oxygen into the root zone. You don't want to saturate the pot to the point that water then gushes and poors out underneath because this will simply wash away valuable nutrients, you want to aim for a small trickle of run off out of the bottom of the pot. Also be wary of soil that has a small gap around the inside of the container, where its shrunk away while drying out, because water will simply run out of this gap out of the bottom probably taking a few delicate exposed root hairs with it - don't let soil dry out and do this! Start from the middle of the pot, and this will push soil to close that gap, you can then start working all around the pot. The pot should feel heavy, it should feel as though 60-80% of that weight is just water.

Re-water when the pot feels light again and the soil just starts to pull away from the sides of the pot, but don't let the soil dry out completely. Once you've done this cycle a couple of times you should get a feel for the frequency of watering and how much water you'll need.

This is called the 'wet/dry' method of watering and is the most reliable and consistent way of doing it. Your shrivelled and mouldy leaf will not improve, pull it off. Once damage of that kind has taken place it's not reversible. The 'burnt' ends of your healthy higher leaves will remain but once a correct watering schedule is establised won't deteriorate any further.

If you do not correct the watering problem, your plant will eventually die.

Next time around try starting off in a smaller pot and work your way up to a larger one, this helps to develop and nice large root zone and you know how it goes, large healthy root zone, nice large healthy plant nice large bumper harvest!

Good luck and I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labours as I do, damn this Satori is good shit!
 

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
how do you upload pictures that big? mine are limited to 800x600.

twisted deformed leaves is usually a sign of overferting or ph imbalance. it doesnt look like overfert whats the runoff ph? or did you say that already? im high.
 
Last edited:

headshot

Member
tree&leaf said:
Lots of interesting thoughts on what could be causing your plant problem.

Unlikely to be a ph problem with the water you're using and your leaf damage isn't really consistent with an out of whack ph. Your lower leaf clearly has some kind of deficiency going on there, either Mg or N, it wouldn't be anything else. As others have mentioned, your soil is well fertilised, so why a deficiency so early on? There's only one probable cause left - incorrect under/over watering, it's the most common new grower error, welcome to growing by the way!

If you're only watering sections of soil, around the base of the plant? Or not fully saturating the pot with water thus leaving air and dry soil pockets? All those roots growing out in exploration of moisture and nutrients are hitting dry patches of soil, and the plant can only extract moisture and nutrients from moist soil. That's probably what's caused your deficiency in what should otherwise be well fertilised soil.

Your problem is compounded by having the plant in too large a pot as others have righty point out, this merely makes the liklihood and negative affect of incorrect watering even more apparent, ie it exaggerates the problem.

You need to give the container a good saturating with water all over and all the way round preferably with a watering can with a sprinkler. The sprinkler helps to penetrate and saturate the soil better and of course 'emulates' the natural effect of rain by pushing oxygen into the root zone. You don't want to saturate the pot to the point that water then gushes and poors out underneath because this will simply wash away valuable nutrients, you want to aim for a small trickle of run off out of the bottom of the pot. Also be wary of soil that has a small gap around the inside of the container, where its shrunk away while drying out, because water will simply run out of this gap out of the bottom probably taking a few delicate exposed root hairs with it - don't let soil dry out and do this! Start from the middle of the pot, and this will push soil to close that gap, you can then start working all around the pot. The pot should feel heavy, it should feel as though 60-80% of that weight is just water.

Re-water when the pot feels light again and the soil just starts to pull away from the sides of the pot, but don't let the soil dry out completely. Once you've done this cycle a couple of times you should get a feel for the frequency of watering and how much water you'll need.

This is called the 'wet/dry' method of watering and is the most reliable and consistent way of doing it. Your shrivelled and mouldy leaf will not improve, pull it off. Once damage of that kind has taken place it's not reversible. The 'burnt' ends of your healthy higher leaves will remain but once a correct watering schedule is establised won't deteriorate any further.

If you do not correct the watering problem, your plant will eventually die.

Next time around try starting off in a smaller pot and work your way up to a larger one, this helps to develop and nice large root zone and you know how it goes, large healthy root zone, nice large healthy plant nice large bumper harvest!

Good luck and I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labours as I do, damn this Satori is good shit!

thanks for your input, I usually only water right where the plant i so I'll give that a try. I will try what you say but i was just scared that watering like that would release to many nuets in such a hot soil
 

Weedninja

Member
t&l said:
Once damage of that kind has taken place it's not reversible. The 'burnt' ends of your healthy higher leaves will remain but once a correct watering schedule is establised won't deteriorate any further.
Well said.^^

I am determined to get your plants off of voss water. It's a bit like using Dom Perignon to kill slugs. Once you get your pH meter, let us know what the reading is on your tap water.
A much cheaper solution is to use distilled water. I get mine for about $1 US per gallon. You will still have to use cal-mag though.
 

headshot

Member
Could this be a main problem:

not sure if this is true but i heard the ph has to be 6.5 for the mg to be absorberd and mine is 6.4 what can I do to get it to 6.5? I think tomorow if it hasn't shown any improvement by the morning I'm gonna replant in just ocean forest with chuncky perlite, increase my water ph somehow and feed a good amount of calmag and a bit of superthrive for a last ditch effort, is that a good idea?
 

tree&leaf

Member
headshot said:
not sure if this is true but i heard the ph has to be 6.5 for the mg to be absorberd and mine is 6.4 what can I do to get it to 6.5?
As I mentioned in my first post to you, I don't beleive that ph is the cause of the problem here. In any case Magnesium is most available from a ph of 7 onwards and tapers off as it approaches a ph of 5.5. So the best range for Magnesium availability, whilst maintaining other nutrient availability is 6.0-7.0. Perhaps you can see now how, being 0.1 of a ph out isn't going to make the slighest bit of difference to the Mg uptake of your plant. Yes, a ph of 6.5 will have fractionally better availability than 6.4, but it's marginal! And would not in any way be responsible for the problems you have.

You need to look elsewhere for the solution.
headshot said:
I think tomorow if it hasn't shown any improvement by the morning I'm gonna replant in just ocean forest with chuncky perlite, increase my water ph somehow and feed a good amount of calmag and a bit of superthrive for a last ditch effort, is that a good idea?
No, because the roots have already spread out and you'll damage some of them trying to repot it. Be patient and follow the advice I've given you - correct watering will solve your problem in time, but it won't happen overnight and there's no quick cure.
 

headshot

Member
first I want to say thankyou to everyone for their help.

okay tree and leef thannks for the watering lesson I just watered doing exactly what you told me, but one question if I water right would that eliminate the need for calmag cause of my rich soil or should I continue using it?
 

tree&leaf

Member
headshot said:
but one question if I water right would that eliminate the need for calmag cause of my rich soil or should I continue using it?
You're most welcome to the help headshot, I'll look forward to seeing them when they've recovered.

As I mentioned in my first post, the roots going out in seach of moisture and nutrients and hitting dry patches of soil, with no moisture and nutrients, you've now released all of the potential nutrients in that pot, by watering it correctly. The plant can now access that moisture and nutrients and that should fix your deficiency, which is why you should simply water it now with plain water when it's time to water again. It doesn't need any Calcium or Mg boosts, so no need for calmag.

The only thing I suggest you feed your plant in Veg is Seaweed Extract, which won't burn as it doesn't contain macro nutrients, but does contain lots of micro nutrients, trace elements and growth hormones. Plants will always look greener and healthier after some seaweed, but don't overdo it, about one tsp per gallon is about right and every 3 rd or 4th watering. Seaweed will also help put back some trace elements lost from your bottled water.

Just be patient and remember how to water correctly and I guarantee your plant will start looking healthier and happier in 5-7 days. Plants always look a bit droopy after a heavy watering, as the water squeezes out oxygen in the root zone, but as the soil begins to dry and oxygen becomes available again, they usually stretch out their fans leaves and angle them upwards and flat, soaking up the light - a very good sign of a happy healthy plant.
 

headshot

Member
shes only getting worse, I have fed twice with calmeg+, and I know I'm watering right... now what???

PB150259.jpg

PB150258.jpg

PB150257.jpg
 

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
um thats nuteburn, calmag is nutes, why are you making it worse?

this is mag defeciency.



mag def interveinal chlorosis yellow leaf, green veins. 1st pic is early stage second pic is late stage. 2 diff plants.





the next 3 aRE nute burn and ph being off.
 

tree&leaf

Member
headshot said:
shes only getting worse, I have fed twice with calmeg+, and I know I'm watering right... now what???
Deary me.

I told you what to do, so why didn't you do it? Why did you feed with Calmag, I told you not to!

Water them correctly and leave them - they'll recover in time as I said, you should see an improvement in 5-7 days, did I not say that? It isn't going to happen overnight! Those damaged leaves ARE NOT GOING TO RECOVER!

Why don't people on this site EVER just listen and act on advice? Why does every man and his dog think he knows better? It's the reason I only ever pop on this site infrequently, because this kind of shit happens all the time and I get sick of it.

Now someone thinks its nutrient burn! Jesus f****** Christ!
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
omfg i see there so much people taking guesses in this thread...i ain't no pro but you you should know who you listen to!...its to late now....you should fllush them asap!...and after that poor a mild feeding after it !......

you should of been giving the advis e to just give plain water....it seems you medium is a little to hot for thet 1 foot plant...she would have been ok with just plain waterings!...but thats just my take on this matter...:2cents:
 
Last edited:

headshot

Member
should I flush? And if I did what it make problems worse cause of the hot soil? How much water should I use to flush?
 
M

mexilandrace

yes flush

twice the amount of water as the size of your pot ie 1 gallon soil=2 gallons of water
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
twice the amount of water as the size of your pot ie 1 gallon soil=2 gallons of water

mmmh that way you leach everything out......and you should't do that....just plain water them untill you have atleast a 1/4 to 1/2 of the containersize in runoff...that should clear things around the roots.....and leave some nutrients to feed....thats why i said after flush a mild feeding....but if you do it like this there's no need for that last..:2cents:
 
M

mexilandrace

Core said:
mmmh that way you leach everything out......and you should't do that....just plain water them untill you have atleast a 1/4 to 1/2 of the containersize in runoff...that should clear things around the roots.....and leave some nutrients to feed....thats why i said after flush a mild feeding....but if you do it like this there's no need for that last..:2cents:

You and I disagree completely on flushing, I say flush it out and start over with light feedings.

not to mention he hit the crap out of them with calmag for no real reason
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
did i not mention that already ...read back dude....its one of the options i stated
 

headshot

Member
yea so basically I should have never given calmag huh??? I flushed last night so lets pray I see some improvements soon
 
Top