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Plants Deficiency or Excess or Light Stress ?
- Thread starter Marla1337
- Start date
I Care
Well-known member
High EC will still cause lock out in organics
Guys it dosnt make any sense. to messsure ec of organic ferts because organic compounds are no salts!
ph of your water is to high same for your soil. i dont see over-fertilization because no burnt tips or other indicators. so salts are in a acceptable range.
Never heard that befor. wrong ph causes lockout also nutrient imbalance and cold temps.
Organic components are not present as salts and therefore cannot be measured with an ec meter. Microorganisms are required to convert the organic molecules into salts that are available to the plants. If these processes take place in the substrate, the EC value increases. but its delayed.
Organic components are not present as salts and therefore cannot be measured with an ec meter. Microorganisms are required to convert the organic molecules into salts that are available to the plants. If these processes take place in the substrate, the EC value increases. but its delayed.
I Care
Well-known member
I started plants straight flower The day of transplant and decided to convert to hydro methods with modified recycle to run off and It’s working.
I just went through this with current flowers and solved the problems with the girls I’m growing, the only reason I bumped in here. I had some soil telling me 1700s/ppm and ph in 4s. followed some advice similar to my own, then made it my own with what I had on hand. It took a lot of water.
Flush is just a bad word, one of the other members here used the word buffering and it’s stuck. You’re not flushing ph to neutral or your content to zero, its kinda of a calibration. So whether it’s high or low. Buffer run off and then reapply readjust until your water is calibrated correctly within the root zone. Doesn't matter if youre worried about EC/ppm or pH. optimization of water in the root zone isn't bad advice.
As I said went through fixing some soil with a couple plants I transplanted straight into my night rig. I don’t well document stuff in my threads but there are good replies in them. in The middle of them I solve some issues with light and nutrients, my half of these threads is kinda fish brains but my plants look better since I started them.
I just went through this with current flowers and solved the problems with the girls I’m growing, the only reason I bumped in here. I had some soil telling me 1700s/ppm and ph in 4s. followed some advice similar to my own, then made it my own with what I had on hand. It took a lot of water.
Flush is just a bad word, one of the other members here used the word buffering and it’s stuck. You’re not flushing ph to neutral or your content to zero, its kinda of a calibration. So whether it’s high or low. Buffer run off and then reapply readjust until your water is calibrated correctly within the root zone. Doesn't matter if youre worried about EC/ppm or pH. optimization of water in the root zone isn't bad advice.
As I said went through fixing some soil with a couple plants I transplanted straight into my night rig. I don’t well document stuff in my threads but there are good replies in them. in The middle of them I solve some issues with light and nutrients, my half of these threads is kinda fish brains but my plants look better since I started them.
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yes maybe both + what Microorganisms already converted.
linde
Well-known member
Huh? No burnt tips?
ph of your water is to high same for your soil. i dont see over-fertilization because no burnt tips or other indicators. so salts are in a acceptable range.
linde
Well-known member
The buds themselves look good. Just focus on the new bud growth and you'll still have a decent harvest. Dont worry about the burnt leaves they are a plant byproduct anyway. Just learn from your mistakes for next time. I always have a calendar hanging in my room. Keep track of waterings, ferting, temps, light flip days. Kind of like a journal. You're doing fine.
yes not on the newest leaves or the lowest. what tells me salts are in a ok level now.
I Care
Well-known member
I can tell ya what I’m doing.
My one recent watering was 2ml cal mag, 1ml of the micro bring Water up to about 250ppm from 50 and the pH doesn’t change, then I added jacks tomato feED up to around 800ppm pH still stable and then added bio thrive bloom for the sulfur content up to my 1200ppm target And this lowers ph into 6s for me.
Because I’ve been slowly working my way up through the last 10 weeks and the plants also take in nutrients in the couple days between waterings I have to then buffer up this water again. The water in the pots is actually losing nutrients every day. The roots are happy with PH and EC and high water content because the water contained in the root zone is optimized and I don’t allow enough evaporation to have build up.
I stopped allowing my plants to dry back because if I water them they grow. When I’m waiting days for they to debydrate, I observe that growth slows. I don’t know what is left in the soil either way so I replenish it with a lots of water calibrated with stuff that plants require. Keeping well draining soil flooded after day or two; before the plant has exhausted all the stuff it wants, leaving behind the stuff it didn’t.
You can over feed your plants, I know I am and because the way I’m doing it, it’s going pretty good. the Heavy handed approach requires more water flow to keep levels optimal. @Marla1337 That’s the only thing you’re missing. It’s going to be a coulee days work and you may have to just focus on one plant at a time each day to correct it. when they have good water in the soil they will grow. You’re better off water logged with good water the plants want than being water logged waiting for water to evaporate. all that’s does is leave behind dissolved solids in the middle of you trying to recalibrate your soil.
My one recent watering was 2ml cal mag, 1ml of the micro bring Water up to about 250ppm from 50 and the pH doesn’t change, then I added jacks tomato feED up to around 800ppm pH still stable and then added bio thrive bloom for the sulfur content up to my 1200ppm target And this lowers ph into 6s for me.
Because I’ve been slowly working my way up through the last 10 weeks and the plants also take in nutrients in the couple days between waterings I have to then buffer up this water again. The water in the pots is actually losing nutrients every day. The roots are happy with PH and EC and high water content because the water contained in the root zone is optimized and I don’t allow enough evaporation to have build up.
I stopped allowing my plants to dry back because if I water them they grow. When I’m waiting days for they to debydrate, I observe that growth slows. I don’t know what is left in the soil either way so I replenish it with a lots of water calibrated with stuff that plants require. Keeping well draining soil flooded after day or two; before the plant has exhausted all the stuff it wants, leaving behind the stuff it didn’t.
You can over feed your plants, I know I am and because the way I’m doing it, it’s going pretty good. the Heavy handed approach requires more water flow to keep levels optimal. @Marla1337 That’s the only thing you’re missing. It’s going to be a coulee days work and you may have to just focus on one plant at a time each day to correct it. when they have good water in the soil they will grow. You’re better off water logged with good water the plants want than being water logged waiting for water to evaporate. all that’s does is leave behind dissolved solids in the middle of you trying to recalibrate your soil.
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I Care
Well-known member
I suggest you get started with getting your water content back where you want it today with whatever method necessary.
I just looked up your jiffy light mix and you know you’ve got soil with a good magnesium content and 16l pots should hold up for a month with what you’ve got. You also know you’ve got the calcium in your available water. I would honestly just go after it with half grow and half bloom at whatever EC/ppm you choose as an optimum and go after the the pot that needs it the most.
she will start growing again if you do what you gotta do
I just looked up your jiffy light mix and you know you’ve got soil with a good magnesium content and 16l pots should hold up for a month with what you’ve got. You also know you’ve got the calcium in your available water. I would honestly just go after it with half grow and half bloom at whatever EC/ppm you choose as an optimum and go after the the pot that needs it the most.
she will start growing again if you do what you gotta do
I have 5 plant in this tent nearly on each it looks like seeds in the flowers like picture 1. Are u sure that this is a seed ? I vannt find any nanners oder other male signs on my plants...
Or maybe this is a new grown part of flower , calyxe ? Look picture 2 that is normal for a girl right ?
I am sure i searched each plant for male sex signs...i dont see anything no nanners no other pollen things.
