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Plants Deficiency or Excess or Light Stress ?
- Thread starter Marla1337
- Start date
Yes, I have. I already reported on pH and EC values in previous posts.
What else can I do? Do you have any ideas for me?
I tried i watered 20L / Plant nearly with 5-5.5 PH and it was not enough drain came with ~ 7+- 0.4pH is too high.
Get in the pH 6 range of 6.2 to 6.6 and your plants will thank you.
Let the soil dry and when watering day comes again water the plants and catch a tiny amount of the first part of the runoff out of the bottom. Test the EC and report what it is.
linde
Well-known member
Another thing you can do I remove those burnt bleached yellow leaves. They won't recover and focus on the new growth only. Lockouts generally affect new growth. Once your pH is correct the plant will continue to grow like it should. Read the plant. How often are your ec meters calibrated? I calibrate mine every time I use them. Even good meters need regularly calibration.
Keep watering (when needed) with a lower pH until you come into range. Keep your feedings at a minimum. Also keep your LED way down(50%) until things look good.
Also.... relax! not every plant you grow will be perfect. You will learn from your past mistakes and your future grows will benefit.
Make sure to have fun! The plants can feel your energy and the more happy you are the happier they will also be.
troutman
Seed Whore
It will eventually go down as the pH buffer in the soil gets used up.
The pH value in the light mix is set and specified by the manufacturer at 5.5 pH using CaCl2. I don't think the buffer is the reason for this. As mentioned, I have been adding CalMag and magnesium sulfate from the beginning when watering. I can imagine that due to my high pH value, calcium and magnesium may have precipitated as carbonate, which could have led to salinization. This would also sustainably increase the pH value, right?
And let's not forget that I overdosed magnesium sulfate by a factor of 10x or more several times. Is it possible that too much magnesium pushed out the calcium, and that's why I'm having problems with zinc? Zinc deficiency looks similar to potassium deficiency and would match the damage pattern.
I just don't understand where these brown edges on the leaves are coming from. It can't be my lamp; it must be nutrient-related. Shortly after watering, the progression of the deficiency seemed to stop for 1-2 days. Today, I feel like it's starting up again.
The leaves are still slightly drooping, and the substrate remains very moist and doesn't dry well, which will take a few more days.
4o
I just don't understand where these brown edges on the leaves are coming from. It can't be my lamp; it must be nutrient-related. Shortly after watering, the progression of the deficiency seemed to stop for 1-2 days. Today, I feel like it's starting up again.
The leaves are still slightly drooping, and the substrate remains very moist and doesn't dry well, which will take a few more days.
4o
linde
Well-known member
Yes it will raise the pH. I use the cal mag plus which has iron also. Kind of balances out the calcium. But I only use cal mag sparingly if needed. You'll be fine. Give them a nice flush and carry on.
I flushed them on Tuesday, but so far nothing has changed. The substrate is still very moist and the plants haven't really changed much. I can hardly see any growth. I'm currently not really sure if the deficiency is continuing.
4o
Yeah i learned a lot thats for sureMoral of the story.
"Don't go extreme on any nutrient or an imbalance will happen."
Tynehead Tom
Well-known member
driving the plants too hard is what is happening and that is creating lock outs
reduce light by 20% and raise to 24inches (60cm)
PH going in should be just below 7..... I prefer 6.8 in soil
run off should be no lower than 6..2 PH
I agree that EC values are very high.
I would let the plants dry back, but not too dry, then flush with 6.8 ph'd water and 250ppm of gypsum (diamond K)
let them dry back again and see what they do. Don't just feed them, you will create excesses and lockouts and only frustrate the problems.
Also, not sure what the actual measured volume of your pots are but only give them 1/5th to 1/6th of thier volume with each feeding/watering.
reduce light by 20% and raise to 24inches (60cm)
PH going in should be just below 7..... I prefer 6.8 in soil
run off should be no lower than 6..2 PH
I agree that EC values are very high.
I would let the plants dry back, but not too dry, then flush with 6.8 ph'd water and 250ppm of gypsum (diamond K)
let them dry back again and see what they do. Don't just feed them, you will create excesses and lockouts and only frustrate the problems.
Also, not sure what the actual measured volume of your pots are but only give them 1/5th to 1/6th of thier volume with each feeding/watering.
I Care
Well-known member
Multiple things that worry me about your thread, I’m going to ignore them. I want to share with you something I just started doing.
I am using a custom coco, peat moss, perlite soil that cannot be over watered when there is proper drainage. I have begun administering the desired EC/PPM and pH to a total flood and measuring the run off.
If that run off is not as desired, I correct that either with food to increase or with water to decrease ppm. Then I continue to pour that same water back through the pots over and over, READJUSTING EVERY TIME until desirable reading.
This is not a flush, it is a complete hydro watering and feed buffering event that I am describing.
The one thing that I want to ask you to correct and do another hydro buffer on your plants. Start with the low end of the pH range which is 6.2 at the lowest (I want) for soil. Because I don’t want you to cause the plants to lock out any nutrients during this hydro buffering event. (this could be why they will not drink)
also
@Marla1337 You choose your desired EC/PPM and feeding. But you’re looking at minimum of 450ppm and no less than 6.2ph when you start this. If worried for you magnesium then do not give any food with magnesium when you begin the buffering I am suggesting.
Also also also
this is the tool I use for this on plants outside of my flood tray
harbor freight oil drain pan and part of seedling tray as a riser
I am using a custom coco, peat moss, perlite soil that cannot be over watered when there is proper drainage. I have begun administering the desired EC/PPM and pH to a total flood and measuring the run off.
If that run off is not as desired, I correct that either with food to increase or with water to decrease ppm. Then I continue to pour that same water back through the pots over and over, READJUSTING EVERY TIME until desirable reading.
This is not a flush, it is a complete hydro watering and feed buffering event that I am describing.
The one thing that I want to ask you to correct and do another hydro buffer on your plants. Start with the low end of the pH range which is 6.2 at the lowest (I want) for soil. Because I don’t want you to cause the plants to lock out any nutrients during this hydro buffering event. (this could be why they will not drink)
also
@Marla1337 You choose your desired EC/PPM and feeding. But you’re looking at minimum of 450ppm and no less than 6.2ph when you start this. If worried for you magnesium then do not give any food with magnesium when you begin the buffering I am suggesting.
Also also also
this is the tool I use for this on plants outside of my flood tray
harbor freight oil drain pan and part of seedling tray as a riser
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