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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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i have a pal running an unenclosed (open, no glass) fixture 315w in a 4x4 tent with a 4 inch fan and it still needs ventilation, the warmth builds up. a 6 or 8 inch fan on thermostat? probably could handle it.

imo the 315w 's are great for unducted hoods in well ventilated spaces

I'm sure that things would get pretty toasty without the glass - I know that when Habeeb switched over to them after I'd told him how cool mine ran, he was shocked at how hot they got when he tried running them open. He was used to LEDs, but it didn't take him long to go over to an enclosed and ventilated hood!

I would think that if you could avoid the direct IR via the glass, then the heat would be pretty similar to a 300w LED fixture - they have very comparable efficiencies.

I run my 30x30 tent with a 4" fan pulling through the fixture, fed by a carbon filter up high, and it stays cooler than my Lumigrow ES330 did (and immeasurably quieter).
 

nr nodes

Member
Got your PM. Though I haven't read this thread and what I'm about to write my be redundant (sorry if so):

You have it a bit turned around. It's UV-B that's useful to us (if you mean THC and some other secondary metabolite biosynthesis), though UV-B is helpful for other reasons in terms of improving plant growth and health, as well; as is UV-A. Both UV-A and UV-B are very good to provide plants, but the amount provided is important (more so for UV-B than UV-A).

UV-C is not what you want to be around, especially without eye protection and skin protection. UV-C is dangerous and not good for plants. Most all UV-C is 'filtered' out of the solar radiation before it reaches Earth's surface.
Do you have data on beneficial levels of UVA/B? What ranges should we be trying for?

[edit] I'm sorry for going off topic, thought this was the other thread, and I had just been thinking how lame all the other non 315 posts here are. Can't delete.
 
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Ericos

Member
That's definitely some interesting info on uv.

As far as running ac hoods without ventilation rives is correct the glass helps lessen the direct heat and doesn't seem yo get to warm with addiquate air circulation. Just a 8" carbon filter right above them takes enough out and I only use a 12000btu portable ac for the room, stays between 79-83.

The 315s run not that hot open fixture but good circulation helps.

My understanding of the mogul 315s UV output was to be an added benefit for plant growth but never really understood the chemistry of it. Just waiting on my 315 agros to come in and replace those hps.
 

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Ericos

Member
Just letting people know who plan on ordering the phillips 315 ballast from these company's that they are all the same company same address: spot lighting.com, ballast depot.com, depot lighting.com, lighting spot.com. After many attempts trying to get ahold of customer service with ballast depot called spot lighting and they had my order on there screens and after beating around the bush the guy told me theyre all one company, wierd and slightly shady some other name had my order info? As long as I get my gearing I'm happy. Spot lighting were the only ones that answered.
 

Minion

Member
Ballasts - I have seen catalog pictures of three different Philips ballasts for this family of lamps, but have only personally seen one version. It is catalog #1ZTMH-210315-R-LF, has both Philips and Advance names on it, is enclosed in a black sheet-metal housing approximately 5"w x 7-3/8"h x 2-1/4"d (mounting ears not included) and is rated for 200-277 volts. The ballasts can optionally power 210w lamps by changing an internal DIP switch selection, have a dimming function via a 0-10vdc signal (this will normally go from 50-100%, but there are other versions - I bought three of them on eBay that have factory labels saying that they will only dim to 70%), and are very efficient (thus cool-running). The ballast overhead for the 315w lamp is only 17w, so they can be mounted in a pretty tight enclosure. These are low-frequency ballasts and will need an external transformer to step up the voltage if you only have 120v available.

220v is referring to the Philips ballast only?

Fixtures -

Sun Systems offers their LEC fixture for a few dollars less than the Cycloptics. They are made in either 120v or 240v versions and are also an open design with a vertical lamp.

Correct?
 

rives

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The Philips ballast is 200-277v. At this point, I think that only the Welthink is available in a 120v version. The complete light fixtures using Philips ballasts that are built for 120v include a transformer to step the voltage up.
 

Ozone25

New member
Just want to give everyone who ordered from Thomas at AdvancedTechLighting know that he's back and said he will be shipping monday. If what he said is true then good news.
 

jorgeblen

Member
What about the 942 for veg and transition and 930/Agro/Green Power for flowering?
I did that way and loved the results.
 

Ericos

Member
930 agro with the adapters I just got the in 942 mogul. Dual kelvin runs beginning! Just get halfe set up right now. Plants loving it and like the spectrum its putting off. Sucks having different strains some times cause of the stretch.
 

flat9

Member
Can someone explain to me why you'd bother purchasing these components (fixture for newer socket, bulb, ballast) separately from all of these links rives listed rather than just going to advancedtech and buying a mogul version that fits your existing gear? This is not an advancedtech advertisement. Just seems like for 220 USD the combo pack is hard to beat, unless I'm missing something. Hang a couple of those vert and call it a day...
 

Ozone25

New member
Can someone explain to me why you'd bother purchasing these components (fixture for newer socket, bulb, ballast) separately from all of these links rives listed rather than just going to advancedtech and buying a mogul version that fits your existing gear? This is not an advancedtech advertisement. Just seems like for 220 USD the combo pack is hard to beat, unless I'm missing something. Hang a couple of those vert and call it a day...

Yes going through ATL is the cheapest by a lot but the owner goes missing sometimes. For example I ordered in November and it still hasn't been shipped out. But should be shipping out by tomorrow. That's one of the reasons you wouldn't want to but you are right, he offers the best deal by far
 
I have a little bit of a query for more experienced minds than mine. I have ordered myself a Sun Systems 315w LEC. I expect it to arrive in the mail any day now.

My current grow setup involves 4 plants in flower at a time, spaced 2 weeks apart, and 4-5 in the veg tent. My flower tent is 200cmX200cm, each plant has 100cm2 to grow in, or a 3x3 square per plant.

I'm using the scrog method. So I have a large scrog net in the veg tent, then when they reach the flower tent for the first 2 weeks they are under a scrog net still, and then from then onwards there's no net.

Theoretically when they reach the flower tent they should have 8-10 weeks in the veg tent, including cloning time but so far it hasn't really worked out that way...Mistakes have been made...took me a while to get the hang of cloning, but i've just tried to keep up the 2 week cycle regardless of size when coming out of the veg tent...eventually with all the kinks worked out i'd like to see a 3x3 screen almost full before they even reach the flower tent.

Each plant in the flower tent has a mars II 900w(450w actual) hanging above it, The veg tent has a mars II 700w and a reflector series LED too

Ok so that's the background of what I gots going on.

My question is, where in my flower tent would the new 315 LEC be best placed? The plants rotate through the tent spending 2 weeks in each corner (my current strain isn't actually finished in 8 weeks which sucks, but im switching strains to a proper 56 day finish... atm they just kind of limbo when the lead plant hits the last corner until that one is done.)

So would I benefit most in week 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, or 7-8. Or should I just follow a plant around the tent with the 315.

If the 315 performs the way I hope it will I plan on replacing all 4 LED lights in the flower tent with them. The LED's are a reasonable quality Chinese made unit with 5w diodes, supposedly comparable to a 600w HPS. I'm getting 5-7 ounces from plants that weren't properly scrogged but had some LST, and the veg time was sort of varied on them too.

So theoretically if 350 odd watts of CMH on a single 3x3 scrogged plant can produce anywhere close to 5-7 ounces of what will undoubtably be better quality, for 100 watts less, then I'll be a happy camper.

Mind you that 5-7 from the LED's is nowhere close to dialled right in, i'm hoping to get more like 10+ per plant now that im using blumats, not missing feeds and getting a bit more veg time.

Anyways, where do ya reckon i should place the 315?
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
Can someone explain to me why you'd bother purchasing these components (fixture for newer socket, bulb, ballast) separately from all of these links rives listed rather than just going to advancedtech and buying a mogul version that fits your existing gear? This is not an advancedtech advertisement. Just seems like for 220 USD the combo pack is hard to beat, unless I'm missing something. Hang a couple of those vert and call it a day...

Or use one of these & an existing reflector-

https://www.hydroponics.net/i/249988

Perfect if you want to go from a 400w system to a 315 system.

I think a lot of people are intrigued by the PGZ format, want to find out how that works. They want the slightly different spectrums of the agro or 930 lamps for whatever their reasons. So they pay more to have it.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have a little bit of a query for more experienced minds than mine. I have ordered myself a Sun Systems 315w LEC. I expect it to arrive in the mail any day now.

My current grow setup involves 4 plants in flower at a time, spaced 2 weeks apart, and 4-5 in the veg tent. My flower tent is 200cmX200cm, each plant has 100cm2 to grow in, or a 3x3 square per plant.

I'm using the scrog method. So I have a large scrog net in the veg tent, then when they reach the flower tent for the first 2 weeks they are under a scrog net still, and then from then onwards there's no net.

Theoretically when they reach the flower tent they should have 8-10 weeks in the veg tent, including cloning time but so far it hasn't really worked out that way...Mistakes have been made...took me a while to get the hang of cloning, but i've just tried to keep up the 2 week cycle regardless of size when coming out of the veg tent...eventually with all the kinks worked out i'd like to see a 3x3 screen almost full before they even reach the flower tent.

Each plant in the flower tent has a mars II 900w(450w actual) hanging above it, The veg tent has a mars II 700w and a reflector series LED too

Ok so that's the background of what I gots going on.

My question is, where in my flower tent would the new 315 LEC be best placed? The plants rotate through the tent spending 2 weeks in each corner (my current strain isn't actually finished in 8 weeks which sucks, but im switching strains to a proper 56 day finish... atm they just kind of limbo when the lead plant hits the last corner until that one is done.)

So would I benefit most in week 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, or 7-8. Or should I just follow a plant around the tent with the 315.

If the 315 performs the way I hope it will I plan on replacing all 4 LED lights in the flower tent with them. The LED's are a reasonable quality Chinese made unit with 5w diodes, supposedly comparable to a 600w HPS. I'm getting 5-7 ounces from plants that weren't properly scrogged but had some LST, and the veg time was sort of varied on them too.

So theoretically if 350 odd watts of CMH on a single 3x3 scrogged plant can produce anywhere close to 5-7 ounces of what will undoubtably be better quality, for 100 watts less, then I'll be a happy camper.

Mind you that 5-7 from the LED's is nowhere close to dialled right in, i'm hoping to get more like 10+ per plant now that im using blumats, not missing feeds and getting a bit more veg time.

Anyways, where do ya reckon i should place the 315?


I'd say that with your veg & flower schedule, if you are getting 5-7 ounces undialed and anticipate 10+ per plant when dialed, then you'd better not fuck around with anything.

That being said, I would pretty well bet on the 315 outperforming your LEDs.

If you keep an individual plant under the 315 all the way through the cycle, you should be able to easily see any difference between that plant and the others. If you leave the lamp in one spot and hit all the plants on the way by, then the difference from the light source will be much more subtle and you would probably need to look for the shift in outbound weight.

If you decide to go with rotating each plant by the 315, then the timing would probably be determined by the Kelvin rating of the lamp that you are getting with the fixture. If it is the 4200k, my guess is that it would work best toward the beginning of the cycle, and if it is the 3000k, then it would probably be of the most benefit toward the end.
 
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