What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)

Dirt Bag

Member
The threads on CMH are very long, so forgive me if this has been covered.

As you know, the Philips CMH comes in 3100K and 4200K:
Philips Master Colour 3100K GreenPower Elite Agro CMH Lamp, 315 Watt, T-12.

And my example, the Philips Master Colour 4200 CDM-TMW 315W/942.
--


For Growth:
I’ve used Philips 315W Master Colour CDM-TMW 315W/942 for Growth.
(Only possible issues arise from the intensity of 315W CMH, dimming can be required).
--
I’ve used Philips 400W CMH Retro, for HPS ballast.
(Very Good for pre-flower and transition).
--
Given the efficiency of CMH, it would be dandy to run CMH for complete grow.
Pictures of complete grows under Philips 3100K CMH, show this bulb is close to the performance of HPS for Flowering.
-
The quality of growth and flowers under CMH are very good.
When you add the energy efficiency in mix, it’s already a close call to switch.

--


I have found:
Hortivision 315W 3K-R CMH (2800K).
-
SunPlix 630W DE CMH 3K Plus (2800K)
CCT: 2800k.
CRI: 87
PPF: 1160 umol/s
Lifetime: 15,000 hours
-

Quantity of Flowers.
Anybody using 2800K CMH for flowering?

What brand 2800K CHM bulb are you using, and has quantity been affected.
What CHM 2800K Bulbs have you found, and what would you like to try?


`

Growers Choice sells 3K-R in a few different types.
 

Dirt Bag

Member
Can anyone provide the leaflet/spec sheet for the Philips Master GreenPower EliteAgro CDM-TP 315W/930 ???

I am looking for days and can't seem to find it.

Edit: Well just right after posting this I've found it. lol

Here you go: https://media.distributordatasoluti...or_CDM-T_Elite_315W_T12_CL_Agro_P_Leaflet.pdf

Awesome! Thank you. This proves everything I have been saying.
1) If you remove the outer jacket, the bulb stops working as a safety measure.
2) No Fadeblock used in this lamp.
3) highest efficacy of any HID light.

There is no valid argument. This is simply the best possible artificial light available for plants. Get yours today!
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
picture.php


Phillips master color cdm-tp mw 315/942 4200k they are the bluest of the choices at the time of purchase. i believe they where chosen because i wanted more uv if possible an blue light in the room. luxx lighting remote ballast

the 315's are setup in between the nanolux de's with phillips growmaster bulbs. de's running at 600-750w. de lights are setup on a 5'x6' light pattern. the 315s hang vert at middle of de light intersect/overlap points, then some hang on the outside perimeter.


this room is 6 de's with 6 315's, soon to be 9 315's. and 2 4ft strips of 330w 4 cob leds i made for side lighting, which are bright as hell.

co2 generator, day time humidifier, 2 dehumidifiers. then one small scrubber dedicated to constant slow removal of air, which inturn provides smell control an refreshing of air.

315s are on a separate circuit but same main timer.

and just has homegrown stated when the environment is dialed, an then the plant efficiency is at its highest point, all the lights are firing. then i mess around with finishing the last few days with just the 315's on and the de's off.


prior to the 315w additions. the room was setup with just the de lighting. dont think im changing this room for awhile...
 
Last edited:

Mengsk

Active member
gmanwho that room looks awesome. Home-Grown touched on this, I think that the room and grow environment all contribute. HPS lighting still makes up a bulk of flowering rooms. These bulbs are too new to have done my own test at home. I'm no economist but it would be interesting to see an unbiased report on power consumption and flower quality and quantity with LED CMH and HPS. That would mean buying three new lights for every 1000w you currently own for many people which is quite an expense. Each grow has so many variables that we hardly see such comparisons. In the next few months I'll try a complete grow using only 315w bulbs to flower. Instead of which bulb is best, maybe gman has it right and using all of them together will give the best results.
 

Boss Cocky

Active member
Hi all,

I know this is the 315w thread but I posted a question on the general CMH thread and haven’t had any luck getting a response.

My wardrobe is 70 x 50cm. Would the Philips 210w CDM be the way to go for this space or should I consider the 150w? I’ve been using the old Philips HPS retro 250w to good effect in a space slightly bigger than this.

Cheers,
BC
 

heatherlonglee

Active member
Sorry for coming here and stating things that the fanboys may not like. I Google and try to verify all info I share before I post. Would be nice if others did also.


Awesome! Thank you. This proves everything I have been saying.
1) If you remove the outer jacket, the bulb stops working as a safety measure.
2) No Fadeblock used in this lamp.
3) highest efficacy of any HID light.

There is no valid argument. This is simply the best possible artificial light available for plants. Get yours today!

The CMH Phillips bulb posted in this link; I have this bulb by exact serial numbers. This bulb has what is called UV block not "fadeblock" and it's written on opposite side of bulb reading "UV Block"

Numbers below taken from link provided above in quote. Phillips own data sheet on the "CMH 315W/930" "Agro" "Green Power" it says all this and still has UV block written on the bulb.

UV-related Characteristics
Damage Factor D/fc 0.17-
PET (NIOSH) 241 h500lx
UV A 4.65 mW/m2
UV B 0.02 mW/m2
UV C 0.02 mW/m2

Sure looks like these bulbs have UV block on them, can say no "fadeblock" but that has no bearing on the actual UV block that's written on bulb and stated in facts about the bulb.

Hey Dirt Bag would you please show me where in this above link that it states this CMH bulb won't work without outer shield? I'd like to see what you're reading that says or infers that the bulb won't work with outer jacket removed?

Below taken from (21 CFR 1040.30)
(d)Requirements for self-extinguishing lamps -
(2)Lamp packaging. Lamp packaging for each high-intensity mercury vapor discharge lamp that does not comply with paragraph (d)(1) of this section shall clearly and prominently display:

(i) The letter “R”; and

(ii) The words “WARNING: This lamp can cause serious skin burn and eye inflammation from shortwave ultraviolet radiation if outer envelope of the lamp is broken or punctured. Do not use where people will remain for more than a few minutes unless adequate shielding or other safety precautions are used. Lamps that will automatically extinguish when the outer envelope is broken or punctured are commercially available.”

Again my bulb with exact serial number you've posted show this on bulb packaging. The R designation and statement about bulbs available that will extinguish when outer jacket is broken or removed.
 

King Rat

Active member
i don't get it, why are you still trying to convince all the cmh 'fanboys'?
There must be only 2 reasons for this, either you are hps fangirl or hps lobbyist.

how much of a problem can someone have with just a source of light, really i just don't get it
 

Dirt Bag

Member
Sorry for coming here and stating things that the fanboys may not like. I Google and try to verify all info I share before I post. Would be nice if others did also.





The CMH Phillips bulb posted in this link; I have this bulb by exact serial numbers. This bulb has what is called UV block not "fadeblock" and it's written on opposite side of bulb reading "UV Block"

Numbers below taken from link provided above in quote. Phillips own data sheet on the "CMH 315W/930" "Agro" "Green Power" it says all this and still has UV block written on the bulb.

UV-related Characteristics
Damage Factor D/fc 0.17-
PET (NIOSH) 241 h500lx
UV A 4.65 mW/m2
UV B 0.02 mW/m2
UV C 0.02 mW/m2

Sure looks like these bulbs have UV block on them, can say no "fadeblock" but that has no bearing on the actual UV block that's written on bulb and stated in facts about the bulb.

Hey Dirt Bag would you please show me where in this above link that it states this CMH bulb won't work without outer shield? I'd like to see what you're reading that says or infers that the bulb won't work with outer jacket removed?

Below taken from (21 CFR 1040.30)
(d)Requirements for self-extinguishing lamps -
(2)Lamp packaging. Lamp packaging for each high-intensity mercury vapor discharge lamp that does not comply with paragraph (d)(1) of this section shall clearly and prominently display:

(i) The letter “R”; and

(ii) The words “WARNING: This lamp can cause serious skin burn and eye inflammation from shortwave ultraviolet radiation if outer envelope of the lamp is broken or punctured. Do not use where people will remain for more than a few minutes unless adequate shielding or other safety precautions are used. Lamps that will automatically extinguish when the outer envelope is broken or punctured are commercially available.”

Again my bulb with exact serial number you've posted show this on bulb packaging. The R designation and statement about bulbs available that will extinguish when outer jacket is broken or removed.

The UV block is for the most harmful types (B&C), Not Fadeblock, which blocks most UVA that is associated with color fade.
The last paragraph states: Certain lamps that will automatically extinguish when the outer envelope is broken or punctured are commercially available. How? By the way I described previously. Try it. Remove the jacket on the ones with the spring attached to the circuitry and get back to me. As for me:
In the immoral words of big Tom Callahan, "I can get a hell of a good look at a T-Bone steak by sticking my head up a bull's ass, but I'd rather take the butcher's word for it."

I'm not sure what you get by calling people names, but I assume it helps boost your ego somehow. This is characteristic of those with low self esteem and /or an inferiority complex, common with women in today's society, but certainly not without cause.
#StopTheHate
 

heatherlonglee

Active member
Dirt Bag you brought your opinion on the CMH and how its works; stated it as facts and even used a link from manufacturer to support your claims. I will always have a problem with this. I don't think that taking the outer jacket off is a good idea. The packaging and R designation on the bulb implies it would work after the jacket was broken or removed. A self extinguishing lamp would have a designation that reads like below.

(3)Lamp packaging. Lamp packaging for each self-extinguishing lamp shall clearly and prominently display:
(i) The letter “T”; and
(ii) The words “This lamp should self-extinguish within 15 minutes after the outer envelope is broken or punctured. If such damage occurs, TURN OFF AND REMOVE LAMP to avoid possible injury from hazardous shortwave ultraviolet radiation.”

I didn't know the difference between Fadeblock and UV block. I don't really know what UV light is best for quality. Just seeing UV Block scares me off.
 

King Rat

Active member
Finally i got my CMHs and ballasts delivered today.
I turned to the backside and instantly threw into trash when i saw UV-Block just like heather adviced to do so.

but then i took a deeper look at the leaflets from the Philips Greenpower CDM-TP 315W Agro and the regular Philips Greenpower CDM-T Elite MW 315W

The damage factor is much more higher on the Agro bulb and look at the emitted UV-A
It emits as much as a black light and more than a tanning flourescent.
And i thought it was blocking all the 'good' UV so i took it out of the trashbin again.
Maybe i just don't know what the numbers mean, that is possible too.

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php
picture.php
 

Dirt Bag

Member
Because I've made a bulb purchase on Ebay, I wondered if there was a way to determine whether the bulb was genuine and whether it was used. So I contacted Philips and was told that the identification markings could be verified through them however the condition could not. Philips states that unless damaged, there is no visible difference between a new and a used CMH bulb. The only way to ensure you're receiving new merchandise is to purchase it from an authorized dealer.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I'm a bit confused what it is u guys are unsure of?.



All 315W T12 CMH BULBS HAVE UV BLOCK.


If they didn't they would be emitting levels that are dangerous. T9 bulbs emit higher levels if im not mistaken. But your suppose to use those in a closed hood with glass that blocks UV.
 

King Rat

Active member
the point was:
I don't really know what UV light is best for quality. Just seeing UV Block scares me off.

yes it have UV-Block written on it.
but it still emits enough and don't blocks all the UV which is believed to be beneficial to a certain amount.

a CMH still emits more UV than a HPS (even with UV Block)

unfortunately the philips leaflets don't give information about UV emitted by their HPI-T Plus MH Lamp so i can't compare the UV characteristics MH vs. CMH

T9 bulbs emit higher levels if im not mistaken.
plain by the leaflets it looks like the regular T9 CDM-T Elite MW has a lower UV damage factor. but like i said i don't know what these numbers mean.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top