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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)
- Thread starter rives
- Start date
ceramic solutions has different products listed than growers choice.
3000k R (not 3100)
4200
3400 (never seen this anywhere else. They say it puts out PPF of 1400)
toastyghostie
Member
Looking good man I haven't seen many crops flowered with 100% CMH. Did you get a good yield?
I was looking at there 3400 spectrum. Its got spikes in the green/yellow spectrum. We don't need spikes in that area. Not sure why one would use that bulb. I would just get a 3100 or 4200.. I see they don't offer a 630 4200.
3400K report for any who may be curious. Regarding spectral output, clearly the 3000K-Red offers the best spectrum for flower, but the 3400K offer 15%~ more intensity. So rather than limit grower's choices, we chose to offer both of these flower bulbs and let fellow growers decide which they like. The result has been almost equal interest between the two flower bulbs.
https://www.ceramicsolutions.us/product-page/630w-4200k-bulb
Also, here is link to our 4200K, we have always stocked one..
https://www.ceramicsolutions.us/product-page/630w-4200k-bulb
Also, here is link to our 4200K, we have always stocked one..
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you must have just added that.. there was no product under 630 4200 when I posted my comment above
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
6 315w phantom cmh's, with phillips 3100 bulbs.
Full horizontal trellis, a few days into flower. I wish I flipped a week earlier, lol... Time to prune out some suckers, set another trellis, and raise the lights.
Full horizontal trellis, a few days into flower. I wish I flipped a week earlier, lol... Time to prune out some suckers, set another trellis, and raise the lights.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
4 sun system air cooled 630w reflectors, with phillips 3100 bulbs, in a 8'x8' tent. Going to set the trellis today or tomorrow, give them a couple days to fill in and adjust, then flip. I like these fixtures, but they are heavy like a tank. Also because the ballasts are in the hood, I decided to air cool and keep the glass shield on. 2 things im not fond of, but I got a steal on these fixtures($300 with phillips bulbs), so I decided to give them a go.
Natural high
Member
Yeah if you want more yellow and green just go for a HPS - they have plenty and put out a much higher lumen/watt than any CMH.
Natural high
Member
They look great but I agree about flipping earlier. That tent ceiling looks awfully close.. you could run out of height before they stop stretching.
That's not accurate at all. CDM's put out more par radiation per watt than any other HID source. HPS wastes a huge portion of output in the infrared-
https://www.cycloptics.com/sites/default/files/USU_spectral_analysis.pdf
With a tip of the hat to rives who furnished that link. Real science! Inconceivable!
Jah... I see a jungle management problem in his future. I don't scrog or anything, which probably changes things somewhat, but I have to flower at 15" to keep exuberant individuals out of the light with a 6' ceiling...
Natural high
Member
Thanks for your link. It confirmed that HPS produces a significant portion of it's output in the green-yellow nm range. I was already aware that HPS generates significant amounts of output in the IR range, as does CMH to a lesser degree.
Phillips 315w 3100K CMH ...= 33,000 lumens (105 lumens/watt)
600w High pressure sodium = 90,000 lumens (150 lumens/watt)
Cheers
I'm just trying to help you clear up a common misconception. Lumens is a measurement heavily weighted to perception by the human eye called the luminosity function-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminosity_function
It doesn't really apply to plants very well. For that, we need to use a different unweighted measure, PAR-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photosynthetically_active_radiation
Yes, what you said about lumens & spectrum of HPS is true. It just doesn't apply to plants the way you think it does. What does apply is what I offered earlier, that CDM's put out more PAR/watt than any other HID source. Honest.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
I have 40" from the first trellis to bottom of fixture when I raise the lights to their final position. then I plan on triple trellising. The next two, being 8" apart. So the top trellis will be 24" from lights. Hoping I can at least let them get within 18" before light stress, but the par is pretty intense at 18" with 6 lights in there.
I was hoping not to bend anymore branches after the first trellis, but im going to have to weave thru the second one, instead of just using it for support. Lots of sucker branch and leaf pruning in my future.
Def have some work ahead of you.. I may have missed it, but how big is the tent?
M
moose eater
Sorry for redirecting the discussion, and verging on a question re. hybrid lighting, but....
Can anyone point me toward a tried and true, proven, effective LED flood-style bulb (whether for agro-specific use or not) that I can augment my 315s with, before I move into the next throw? Preferably in the far red spectrum.
As stated earlier without such directness in inquiry, I would like to place (4) LED flood-style bulbs into the corners of my boxes (1 LED per corner), and have them suspended on heavy cord and either chain or line.
Prefer plant-usable spectrum to bring up the PAR/watts per sq. ft., and an actual draw of 10-15 watts per bulb, with (ideally), at least an equivalent output of a 120 to 150 watt incandescent.
Preferably without paying $40+/bulb, but if that's what is required, then that's what is required.
Thanks.
Can anyone point me toward a tried and true, proven, effective LED flood-style bulb (whether for agro-specific use or not) that I can augment my 315s with, before I move into the next throw? Preferably in the far red spectrum.
As stated earlier without such directness in inquiry, I would like to place (4) LED flood-style bulbs into the corners of my boxes (1 LED per corner), and have them suspended on heavy cord and either chain or line.
Prefer plant-usable spectrum to bring up the PAR/watts per sq. ft., and an actual draw of 10-15 watts per bulb, with (ideally), at least an equivalent output of a 120 to 150 watt incandescent.
Preferably without paying $40+/bulb, but if that's what is required, then that's what is required.
Thanks.
Natural high
Member
Thanks. I understand the differences between PAR and Luminous flux quite well. I was simply making the point that if the extra intensity in the 3400K bulb is due to a greater green and yellow output then you may as well use HPS. The reason the 3,100K and 4,200K bulbs are superior to HPS is due to their superior spectrum in regards to PAR, not their luminous flux.
Cheers
