-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Ph problem with pics
- Thread starter ShroomDr
- Start date
If your continually adding phosphoric acid to get the ph down, that is not good. You should switch to sulfuric acid which donates harmless sulfur. That's interesting the cal mag contains no boron. Are you sure? You should come up with the level of b your using (and other micros) if you want to dial them in.
the cal mag max contains no listed B, cal mag + I THINK does. But eh Cal Mag Max has no N, so i wanted to use it instead,(This late in flowering).
Maybe i should drop the experiment, but again, its not negatively affecting my other DWC.
Im thinking of simplifying my new res change.
(per/gal)
15pbpbsoil
10Overdrive
5Sweet
I dont plan on changing it again, until the pH stablizes
The guy at the hydro shop recommending dropping the Silica Blast, he says its not necessary this late (im not so sure) and i mentioned it does contain a lot of K, which i already have a lot of, but he seems unconcerned about this.
pH is...6.09
Sprout, i undrrstand that adding too much phdown, will also lead to problems, and if i have to keep adjusting much longer, i will dump the res and start again.
Maybe i should drop the experiment, but again, its not negatively affecting my other DWC.
Im thinking of simplifying my new res change.
(per/gal)
15pbpbsoil
10Overdrive
5Sweet
I dont plan on changing it again, until the pH stablizes
The guy at the hydro shop recommending dropping the Silica Blast, he says its not necessary this late (im not so sure) and i mentioned it does contain a lot of K, which i already have a lot of, but he seems unconcerned about this.
pH is...6.09
Sprout, i undrrstand that adding too much phdown, will also lead to problems, and if i have to keep adjusting much longer, i will dump the res and start again.
Last edited:
... ok, Ive looked around, and i cant find anywhere, where N < K. (bloom boosters, not included). I figured that the plants, as green as the still are (im half way though week 5, and this pheno goes 8-8.5weeks), did not need much N, but i never thought about the ratio...
is the ratio important? or just too much P?
Is it to much P, causing my ph to rise?
This, to me, would mean that the P is falling out of the solution, and only after this, did the pH finally stabilize. (Im not declaring the current pH stable, but the previous reservoir seemed to be before i changed it. Maybe it was just a matter of time, and the H2O2 had nothing to do with it.
This is also the first time ive used PBPBSoil and AN Overdrive (mines a 1-3-4) together.
is the ratio important? or just too much P?
Is it to much P, causing my ph to rise?
This, to me, would mean that the P is falling out of the solution, and only after this, did the pH finally stabilize. (Im not declaring the current pH stable, but the previous reservoir seemed to be before i changed it. Maybe it was just a matter of time, and the H2O2 had nothing to do with it.
This is also the first time ive used PBPBSoil and AN Overdrive (mines a 1-3-4) together.
red stems and yellowing between the veins... looks to me like mag deficency. could be wrong, theres a good guide stickied at the top. Ide hit them with standard dose of Cal-Mag or Epson Salt, it couldnt hurt.
I am adding a cal-mag booster though^^^^^^^^
about an hour ago, i topped of with a quart of water (.25G)
the pH was 6.20 after top off (my tap is 7.2ish) so i do not attribute the rise to the problem, just the tap water.
current ph (runs to check)
6.18
so, basically stable. Im off to work, so ill post another reading in 4-6 hours.
i just dont know if i want to dump a stable reservoir, risking more instability.
about an hour ago, i topped of with a quart of water (.25G)
the pH was 6.20 after top off (my tap is 7.2ish) so i do not attribute the rise to the problem, just the tap water.
current ph (runs to check)
6.18
so, basically stable. Im off to work, so ill post another reading in 4-6 hours.
i just dont know if i want to dump a stable reservoir, risking more instability.
sensigroove
New member
This is a DWC set up right?
Check your roots if they look pink turning brown or a dark rust you have burned your plants with too strong nutes. Do you have a lot of dead roots? If just pink then you still OK if white you are good. Try to use complete nute brands, when you get into adding this and that of too many products that could lead to nute burn. DWC are very sensitive to high nute burn for bloom formulas.
I'm not sure what kind of nutes you are using but you need to ease up on the nutes. Run pure water with PH adjustment for a week with a few more days if you see improvement, look for white roots and growth, use Super Thrive, a drop a gal and use it till the end but never too much.
Too much of anything is bad most times. Remember to start out low ppm 150-250 depending on the nutes you are using then work your way up. Don't rush with too strong nutes during mid flowering weeks. Blue strains will burn easiy. With young ones as soon as you see pink roots and chem burn on your leaves you need to back off the nute ppm. It is a good practice to use pure water after nute burn for a few days or even a week before getting back to your nute program.
IMHO
Check your roots if they look pink turning brown or a dark rust you have burned your plants with too strong nutes. Do you have a lot of dead roots? If just pink then you still OK if white you are good. Try to use complete nute brands, when you get into adding this and that of too many products that could lead to nute burn. DWC are very sensitive to high nute burn for bloom formulas.
I'm not sure what kind of nutes you are using but you need to ease up on the nutes. Run pure water with PH adjustment for a week with a few more days if you see improvement, look for white roots and growth, use Super Thrive, a drop a gal and use it till the end but never too much.
Too much of anything is bad most times. Remember to start out low ppm 150-250 depending on the nutes you are using then work your way up. Don't rush with too strong nutes during mid flowering weeks. Blue strains will burn easiy. With young ones as soon as you see pink roots and chem burn on your leaves you need to back off the nute ppm. It is a good practice to use pure water after nute burn for a few days or even a week before getting back to your nute program.
IMHO
Last edited:
I wouldnt recommend Super Thrive in flowering. I have heard various diff. unconfirmed reports that it can produce fluffy buds in flowerin. I try to stear clear from shit that fucks with hormones. my .02
im not using superthrive this late in flower.
I think the root rot/disease is over with now.
pH is 5.79
The real question is, should i dump res for a new one?
Should i continue to use SM-90?
New res, without the Sm90, might lead to the same problems. which i am tired of chasing.
New res with SM90, will PROBABLY require a lot less pHdw (ive already added 32ml of phdwn, which is probably way too much). but the SM90 will kill the beneficals in the Liquid Karma.
what to do?
I think the root rot/disease is over with now.
pH is 5.79
The real question is, should i dump res for a new one?
Should i continue to use SM-90?
New res, without the Sm90, might lead to the same problems. which i am tired of chasing.
New res with SM90, will PROBABLY require a lot less pHdw (ive already added 32ml of phdwn, which is probably way too much). but the SM90 will kill the beneficals in the Liquid Karma.
what to do?
If your addin SM90 for rootrot, ide consider picking mycorrhizal cultures instead such as EA/EN. It wont mess with any of the other beneficals and is great for root rot prevention.
Last edited:
Date1201
2pm
5.79
Date1202
12am
5.60
1297
New Res3.25G
30pbpbs
35lk
30od
30cmm
15swt
8sm90
25hzym
1327
5.97
well we will see if this res stays good. we have recieved a big cold front, so the attic is now a lot cooler, and my res temps are back to 72F.
I dropped the feeding a little and added more cal mag max, and now sweet.
Ive got my feeding schedule to
N 73
P 88
K 219
Mg 86
Ca 148
+ there is definitely B in the Sweet.
Ill post back.
2pm
5.79
Date1202
12am
5.60
1297
New Res3.25G
30pbpbs
35lk
30od
30cmm
15swt
8sm90
25hzym
1327
5.97
well we will see if this res stays good. we have recieved a big cold front, so the attic is now a lot cooler, and my res temps are back to 72F.
I dropped the feeding a little and added more cal mag max, and now sweet.
Ive got my feeding schedule to
N 73
P 88
K 219
Mg 86
Ca 148
+ there is definitely B in the Sweet.
Ill post back.
The 81 degrees temp caused pythium in one of your rez's. Why the other rez(s) didn't get pythium also I do not know. The pythium caused the pH to rise. When you changed out the rez there was still enough pythium on, in the root to RE-INOCCULATE the rez where it florished and caused the new rez's pH to rise again. Stop worrrying about killing off the beneficials in the LK. You are beyond that. The sm-90/h202 is helping kill the pyth. Control the pyth and your pH symptoms will diminish.
^^
Agreeed, 81 is too high, keep it lower if possible.
SM90 will kill the mycho in EA/EN, I was suggestin to use the EA/EN as an alternative to combat your root-rot. It did wonders for me.
I had horrible root-rot awhile back, we ran one rez with an h202 mix. Ran it for a day or so, dumped the rez and filled it up with ea.en. Never had a problem with root rot after that.
Agreeed, 81 is too high, keep it lower if possible.
SM90 will kill the mycho in EA/EN, I was suggestin to use the EA/EN as an alternative to combat your root-rot. It did wonders for me.
I had horrible root-rot awhile back, we ran one rez with an h202 mix. Ran it for a day or so, dumped the rez and filled it up with ea.en. Never had a problem with root rot after that.
http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/faqs/fungi-faq.html#4. Mycorrhizae and their significance said:
http://www.mycorrhiza.com/index.php?cid=22 said:
I am growing in Hydroton clay pebbles.
its not a heat thing anymore,
The SM-90 seems to do nothing against whatever it is.
I just added 13ml phdwn
pH was 6.06
now, 10minutes later 6.39
could it be a bad bottle of nutes?
I hate to start blaming nutes, but the Overdrive is the old formula (even though i bought it 4 weeks ago) and its the first time ive ever used Cal-Mag Max. They are the only new additions to the lineup. The Cal-Mag Max is not causing problems in the other side by side.
I had problems with my last grow near the end (I was using Overdrive) but i was also using rockwool. I assumed my problem was the rockwool and DWC combo, but could it have been the Overdrive?
its not a heat thing anymore,
The SM-90 seems to do nothing against whatever it is.
I just added 13ml phdwn
pH was 6.06
now, 10minutes later 6.39
could it be a bad bottle of nutes?
I hate to start blaming nutes, but the Overdrive is the old formula (even though i bought it 4 weeks ago) and its the first time ive ever used Cal-Mag Max. They are the only new additions to the lineup. The Cal-Mag Max is not causing problems in the other side by side.
I had problems with my last grow near the end (I was using Overdrive) but i was also using rockwool. I assumed my problem was the rockwool and DWC combo, but could it have been the Overdrive?
