PC Case Growers Club

[JlMH4LPERT]

80W is nice but try to increase it a bit for flowering. Alternatively, decrease your veg lighting a bit, and use 80w to flower.

cut a piece out of cardboard that simulates the exhaust of a clothes dryer on the outside of a house (which incidentally is made to keep water out) this points all light downard... if you line this piece of cardboard with black paint or tape it will also dampen the light.

 

[domalama]

help

help

i just started a p.c grow with 3 100w cfls and 3 cpu fans in a 24 high by 6 wide by 22 long. i juat transplanted the plants in a bigger pot and now on some of the leafs they are getting dry spots. and it is spreeding to both plants. should i cut off the infected leafs?
help

 

[Ghostwolf]

80W is nice but try to increase it a bit for flowering. Alternatively, decrease your veg lighting a bit, and use 80w to flower.

cut a piece out of cardboard that simulates the exhaust of a clothes dryer on the outside of a house (which incidentally is made to keep water out) this points all light downard... if you line this piece of cardboard with black paint or tape it will also dampen the light.

This design isn't mine, it was created by my friend Scrubninja who is quite a inventor in his own right. This is his idea for a light proof vent, as you can see it filters 99% of the light. Another thought wound be the DIY micro carbon filter 1st posted by Pigpen that I've shown above, will cut out all light.
DIY: A new angle on light proof vents
Hello guys. Here is a very compact, free flowing light trap I designed and made out of minimal equipment, cost and skill. I saw a door vent in the hardware store and got the idea for using the angles but they had used a rather dodgy system to space them out. I thought on it for many weeks until I realised I could just use other angle as the spacers and get a very professional looking product. I'll let some pics do the talking because it isn't exactly rocket science.

The basic idea, exploded

The pieces cut out and small dab of glue applied to each (you don't need to do the top one remember)

Stuck together

Painted flat black

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x712 and weights 62KB.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x731 and weights 93KB.

As mentioned, it's very free flowing. It blocks 99.99% of the light. At first I thought it blocked 100% but after letting my eyes adjust in a dark room, there is a slight glow coming from it, just enough that I wouldn't place it solely between a veg and flower room personally. Not enough to catch on camera! But it is noticeable with the naked eye if you concentrate.

It suits the purpose I made it for perfectly as it's in a cab in a dark room and the intake is facing a wall. But my next build for my other cab will use wider angle and I'm quite confident it will stop 100% of the light. Here are the sizes of aluminium angle used:

• Main fins - 12mm x 12mm x 1.4mm thick
• Spacers - 12mm x 12mm x 3mm thick

My completed unit is 150mm x 70mm x 17mm thickness. I'm unsure what other angle sizes are available exactly but my next build will be in the area of:

• Main fins - 25mm x 25mm x 1.4mm thick
• Spacers - 25mm x 25mm x 2.8 thick (two of the 1.4mm thick "main fin" angles placed together)

If anyone would like to use this idea and/or modify it, please go ahead and please try other dimensions. I'd encourage you to use dimensions in the ballpark of what I'm planning for the next one if you are trying for 100% blocked. I can't even be sure it'll work in a 100% situation but see no reason why not. Or maybe you guys can come up with an improvement?

I think you'll be surprised at how much it blocks. Here is the final product quickly taped into place for testing. The tape let through some light leaks but I left them like that because it gives a better idea how minimal the glow is. Both shots taken rapid fire with/without flash:

Fatigues suggested using plastic or wood angling which I think would make it easier to cut up! I used a hacksaw and though it wasn't exactly a party, it was not too tedious. Aluminium is no match for a hacksaw. Tedious comes when you have to bevel each cut on each piece so they sit together neatly.

Another factor to keep in mind: the thickness of the fins is paramount here. You want as thin as possible to increase the ratio of free air flow to blockage. I used 1.4mm thickness for the fins (lets call it 1.5 including glue, for convenience) and the spacers were 3mm, so right there we can see that there's approximately 66% free flow. I just sized my intake hole proportionately beforehand so I still have far more than 2x intake:exhaust ratio, as per the dummy's guide.

Another issue was that it's hard to coat the very inner recess of the angles with spray paint when assembled. Hydro-Soil suggested painting them before assembling and I think this is a good idea. Just try to leave a tiny patch on the ends for the glue to stick to, so it's metal > glue > metal..... instead of metal > paint > glue > paint > metal.

Simple huh? Total cost: a few bucks? Not worth counting for my micro project. Please post pics and reports if you make this. Cheers.

 

[BlackWidow]

This design isn't mine, it was created by my friend Scrubninja who is quite a inventor in his own right. This is his idea for a light proof vent, as you can see it filters 99% of the light. Another thought wound be the DIY micro carbon filter 1st posted by Pigpen that I've shown above, will cut out all light.
DIY: A new angle on light proof vents
Hello guys. Here is a very compact, free flowing light trap I designed and made out of minimal equipment, cost and skill. I saw a door vent in the hardware store and got the idea for using the angles but they had used a rather dodgy system to space them out. I thought on it for many weeks until I realised I could just use other angle as the spacers and get a very professional looking product. I'll let some pics do the talking because it isn't exactly rocket science.

The basic idea, exploded

The pieces cut out and small dab of glue applied to each (you don't need to do the top one remember)

Stuck together

Painted flat black

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x712 and weights 62KB.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x731 and weights 93KB.

As mentioned, it's very free flowing. It blocks 99.99% of the light. At first I thought it blocked 100% but after letting my eyes adjust in a dark room, there is a slight glow coming from it, just enough that I wouldn't place it solely between a veg and flower room personally. Not enough to catch on camera! But it is noticeable with the naked eye if you concentrate.

It suits the purpose I made it for perfectly as it's in a cab in a dark room and the intake is facing a wall. But my next build for my other cab will use wider angle and I'm quite confident it will stop 100% of the light. Here are the sizes of aluminium angle used:

• Main fins - 12mm x 12mm x 1.4mm thick
• Spacers - 12mm x 12mm x 3mm thick

My completed unit is 150mm x 70mm x 17mm thickness. I'm unsure what other angle sizes are available exactly but my next build will be in the area of:

• Main fins - 25mm x 25mm x 1.4mm thick
• Spacers - 25mm x 25mm x 2.8 thick (two of the 1.4mm thick "main fin" angles placed together)

If anyone would like to use this idea and/or modify it, please go ahead and please try other dimensions. I'd encourage you to use dimensions in the ballpark of what I'm planning for the next one if you are trying for 100% blocked. I can't even be sure it'll work in a 100% situation but see no reason why not. Or maybe you guys can come up with an improvement?

I think you'll be surprised at how much it blocks. Here is the final product quickly taped into place for testing. The tape let through some light leaks but I left them like that because it gives a better idea how minimal the glow is. Both shots taken rapid fire with/without flash:

Fatigues suggested using plastic or wood angling which I think would make it easier to cut up! I used a hacksaw and though it wasn't exactly a party, it was not too tedious. Aluminium is no match for a hacksaw. Tedious comes when you have to bevel each cut on each piece so they sit together neatly.

Another factor to keep in mind: the thickness of the fins is paramount here. You want as thin as possible to increase the ratio of free air flow to blockage. I used 1.4mm thickness for the fins (lets call it 1.5 including glue, for convenience) and the spacers were 3mm, so right there we can see that there's approximately 66% free flow. I just sized my intake hole proportionately beforehand so I still have far more than 2x intake:exhaust ratio, as per the dummy's guide.

Another issue was that it's hard to coat the very inner recess of the angles with spray paint when assembled. Hydro-Soil suggested painting them before assembling and I think this is a good idea. Just try to leave a tiny patch on the ends for the glue to stick to, so it's metal > glue > metal..... instead of metal > paint > glue > paint > metal.

Simple huh? Total cost: a few bucks? Not worth counting for my micro project. Please post pics and reports if you make this. Cheers.

very cool idea !
iv'e tried it once in my closet when i was short on air conditioning pipe, but not as good as this one.
can i make it out of cardboard??

 

[ScrubNinja]

Hey Black Widow! Some people have used cardboard - I believe Ghostwolf is making a cardboard one now. I like the aluminium angle because it's so symetrical and efficient (and strong). The air flow and light trapping depends on the gaps, so the more straighter and evener, the better.

 

[Ghostwolf]

Hey Black Widow! Some people have used cardboard - I believe Ghostwolf is making a cardboard one now. I like the aluminum angle because it's so symmetrical and efficient (and strong). The air flow and light trapping depends on the gaps, so the more straighter and evener, the better.

Greetings Yes I just finished the one I made in cardboard and superglue because it was what I had to use, I wasn't able to get angle, I just used what I had around. It is 100% effective filtering light, and because I used cardboard I was able to put more fin's into it. I just put it on my PC case tonight. But I will say it would have been easier if I had used angle instead, then I wouldn't have to make small corrections all the way thru the construction of it. I all so used a z fin shape instead of a v shape. But it is done now and working well. I have "Scrubninja" to thank for the idea tho. But definitely use angle, you need a lot of patience to do what I did, and then it was only out of necessity. But if you have the patience try it, I needed an axcto knife to score the the corners and edges for straiter bending and used a cereal box for the cardboard. Hey you gotta love recycling.

 

[ScrubNinja]

Wow that's great to hear bro! It does suck to cut up all the metal and file off the sharp bits, etc. So certainly use whatever is at hand, it's the idea that counts. As you have realised Hope you get some frosty buds in there!

 

[Ghostwolf]

Wow that's great to hear bro! It does suck to cut up all the metal and file off the sharp bits, etc. So certainly use whatever is at hand, it's the idea that counts. As you have realized Hope you get some frosty buds in there!

Well folks here is my 24hr report after the new z fin light proof vent was installed. It does provide 100% light filtering, but as I said last night I was able put more fin's in into it because it was cardboard. I kept checking it thru the night and it seems that while cutting out the light it also had a little less air flow and also when checked the air coming out of the vent was warmer. So when I made it thinking more is better, apparently it was not, so I'll probably remove every other fin to increase air flow, as I made the fin's about 3/16" a part so I should be able to remove some fin's and still have a very high light proof effiency level . Another plus of cardboard is I can carefully take it a part and make corrections.

 

[ScrubNinja]

Well folks here is my 24hr report after the new z fin light proof vent was installed. It does provide 100% light filtering, but as I said last night I was able put more fin's in into it because it was cardboard. I kept checking it thru the night and it seems that while cutting out the light it also had a little less air flow and also when checked the air coming out of the vent was warmer. So when I made it thinking more is better, apparently it was not, so I'll probably remove every other fin to increase air flow, as I made the fin's about 3/16 a part so I should be able to remove some fin's and still have a very high light proof effiency level . Another plus of cardboard is I can carefully take it a part and make corrections.

Are you able to show pics? Fatigues suggested using choroplast, it's that stuff that real estate or election signs are made from commonly. It's just like corrugated/reinforced cardboard, only it's plastic and stronger and straighter.

What you do is use a cutter and cut your edges exactly in line with the corrugations, using a steel ruler or whatever. But instead of bending it in the middle, you cut along that too - but only halfway through. Hoosier explains the technique perfectly here. Also, just as important as the fins is what you're using to space them apart. You see, the whole efficiency of the idea, comes from all the edges being straight and symetrical. If you think you have that under control, I would suggest removing fins like you said. My V idea (and dimensions) are fine for inside a computer imo. But since you're using the Z technique, you could have much wider gaps, safely I would think.

Please let us know how you get on, haven't had many reports back from people who've done it.

 

[Ghostwolf]

Are you able to show pics? Fatigues suggested using choroplast, it's that stuff that real estate or election signs are made from commonly. It's just like corrugated/reinforced cardboard, only it's plastic and stronger and straighter.

What you do is use a cutter and cut your edges exactly in line with the corrugations, using a steel ruler or whatever. But instead of bending it in the middle, you cut along that too - but only halfway through. Hoosier explains the technique perfectly here. Also, just as important as the fins is what you're using to space them apart. You see, the whole efficiency of the idea, comes from all the edges being straight and symetrical. If you think you have that under control, I would suggest removing fins like you said. My V idea (and dimensions) are fine for inside a computer imo. But since you're using the Z technique, you could have much wider gaps, safely I would think.

Please let us know how you get on, haven't had many reports back from people who've done it.

You're right about the Z fin spacing I believe I can remove some and still have it work well. I've used an axcto knife (similar to a razor knife, but smaller) to score the fold edges with a straight edge guide, and used layers flat cardboard for spacers all held together with superglue on either side, again trying to emulate your original design. Sorry I don't have a way to post pictures, unless maybe my web cam is able take still shot's, I don't know I'll try it and see. Either way I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[Ghostwolf]

OK I just check my web cam it does take still shot's. I didn't really know as I don't mess with it much. So I'll see about getting you some pic's.

 

[ScrubNinja]

Fantastic, thank you

 

[Ghostwolf]

Happy Thanksgiving all of you grower's and toker's out there.

 

[Strativa]

I'm curious about the 100w HPS temps...How did that go?
I guess the 100w HPS would be a helluva lot hotter than the 100w CFL...

I am also curious to see someone do a 150/100w hps PC. Forgive me, as I am a little new here, but I thought that HID lights are more efficient than the flourescent?

This is just a quick grab from google but here is a 150 CFL with 8,000 lumens:
http://www.buylighting.com/150-Watt-Compact-Fluorescent-5000K-Full-Spectrum-p/fe-iiib-150w-50k.htm

(Another quick grab) Here is a 150 HPS that puts off 16,000 lumens:
http://www.yardlover.com/sun-system-4-enclosed-ballast-150-watt-hps-light-system

Wouldn't this mean that the CFL puts off TWICE as much heat as an HPS (assuming the HPS ballast is remote)?

Am I wrong in this assumption? If HID's are more efficient, more energy would be converted to light rather than heat. So watt for watt shouldn't any equivalent CFL put off more heat per watt? Please forgive me if I am wrong.

 

[mrred]

youre right but a 150hps in a computer case might be over kill, and 150 is good for a 1.5x1.5 foot space a 70w hps seems better for the regular sized atx cases , they even got 50 and 35w hps too

 

[Strativa]

I agree that a 150 watt HPS would be overkill in a standard case but I'm looking at a full tower case, 25 inches tall (chieftec):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811160008

Even still I don't plan on using a 150 watt HPS. I just feel its too much. However, it would be nice to see it done or even that its possible to do. I know many are curious.

Been doing a little more research on the cfls. Found these micro minis by sylvania in a sears. They really are pretty small:

http://www.energycircle.com/store/sylvania-micro-mini-two-pack-23-watt.html

They are rated at 1640 lumens. 5 of these would consume 115 watts and produce 8200 lumens. Whats the deal here? Do the big CFLs just suck or what?

 

[BC Chronic]

Hey Strativa..I have 161 watts in my pc so it is possible as long as you have proper exhaust cause it gets very hot if you don't..Try an aluminum case.They disperse heat better.I got mine fro $89. Plants love the heat but you need proper ventilation and the sky's the limit!
Hope this helped bro.

 

[johnnydfo20]

this is my pc box i've been workin on inside its about 14' tall 7' wide and i done forgot the length but w/e, i just need to slap on filters for my fans throw in some cfls, thermometer, and a couple seedlings n i should b set for experimenting

looks normal huh?


heres my logo haha it glows in teh dark

had to add camo i live in TX

and the insides minus bulbs n bud


positive critics welcomed

edit: i changed my fan set up a bit swapped the one on the outside to the mini chamber cuz it was serving no purpose and i needed some oscilation in the mini chamber

 

[fatcat0491]

this is my pc box i've been workin on inside its about 14' tall 7' wide and i done forgot the length but w/e, i just need to slap on filters for my fans throw in some cfls, thermometer, and a couple seedlings n i should b set for experimenting

looks normal huh?


heres my logo haha it glows in teh dark

had to add camo i live in TX

and the insides minus bulbs n bud


positive critics welcomed

edit: i changed my fan set up a bit swapped the one on the outside to the mini chamber cuz it was serving no purpose and i needed some oscilation in the mini chamber

I have the Exact same pc Cab that Im build Right now. wanna know the best way to have the lights .. Strip the power supply and solder new leads of the plug to the lights... Ill have to take some pics..

 

[johnnydfo20]

I have the Exact same pc Cab that Im build Right now. wanna know the best way to have the lights .. Strip the power supply and solder new leads of the plug to the lights... Ill have to take some pics..

i ghetto rigged all 3 of my fans to a cell phone charger so i can turn them off during lights out (at ur own discretion) im mounting extension chord with sockets plugged in for my lights so i can adjust them accordingly to the plant in the large chamber gonna be 2 big 2.7k CFLs and a couple small 5k for the hell of it in the smaller chamber im going to hardmount this big ass 5k CFL for vegging i want sort of a perpetual grow in this box for my personal smoke... some time soon im building a rubbermaid

i had trouble fitting a powerstrip nor the pcs original powersupply (i wanted that lil box for a carbon filter like deal since my exhaust fan is righ tthere) so i found its easier to load it up with extension chord just gotta be cautious i'm runnin my box non stop with close eyes to make sure it dont catch on fire or nething messes up wish i had a thermometer so i can check out the temp, post sum pics soon i wanna see waht others r doin with the same case