G
Guest
damn 3leg, that's an awesome lookin girl.
Sweet is an organic carbohydrate synthisizer , whatever that means!
THC
Sweet is an organic carbohydrate synthisizer , whatever that means!
THC
-
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PBP users post your formula
- Thread starter SuperToker
- Start date
- Status
G
Guest
The soil version has less N also so this works well after the stretch is finished. Some guys like to have the extra N in the hydro version to mid flowering then switch to the soil version for the last couple of weeks.
I use ro water, add cal mag at 4 ml per gal to get 300ppm, I do this first, then add the nutes at about half strenghth. 400 to 600 ppm veg. and 800 to 1200 ppm bloom. My AK's have loved this so far. I also run cannazyme and have had great luck with it.
GroNut
I use ro water, add cal mag at 4 ml per gal to get 300ppm, I do this first, then add the nutes at about half strenghth. 400 to 600 ppm veg. and 800 to 1200 ppm bloom. My AK's have loved this so far. I also run cannazyme and have had great luck with it.
GroNut
G
Guest
IS Cal-Mag really that important? I use LK and PBP. I have only tested the pH and its high of course cause im on well water out here in the boonies. Also do the flush solutions have that much of an advantage over just plain water?
SuperToker
Member
if your using ro water, yes. if your using tap water, its best to use calmag aswell but not absolutely required.
2
20kw dreams
Fuck, Fuck, Fuck!!! I just erased a long ass post.
Anyways, Botanicare is the shit. I love the stuff. My ph is always perfect. In fact, it takes 10 days for the ph to start getting whack, which I see as a sign of nutrient imbalance.
About half of the "additives" I use are actually nutrients. Cal-Mag and Canna PK 13/14 are straight up fertilizers, and not really additives, as they contain nothing but nutrients. LK is a mostly additive additive, but I think it has some N in it or something, which you should just at least take note of. I'm actually using Floralicious this run, cause I had it sitting around and wanted to get rid of it. While Floralicious is basically GH's version of the all around seaweed extract additive, comparible to LK, it does have a 1:1:1, which makes it a fert as well as an additive. Anyways, I think that is important to notice for newcomers. If you read my ppm's, they are at like 400-500 ppm after adding the additives, when I only run at like 800ppm's, but that is mainly because of all the ferts in the additives.
These are all the additives and/or, and why I use them. Some of them are necessities for healthy plants, and others just...helpful
If you are starting out growing, I would suggest trying to keep your nutrients and additives to a minimum. This will make it easier to identify problems.
Superthrive (not necessary): Cause it's cheap, and old schoolers say it works. Helps root cell division and ease stress. Only use in veg.
Hydrogaurd(Helpful for root rotvprevention): I started using enzyme products cause I used to get root rot bad. I would recommend Cannazyme if you expect a hefty battle w/ root rot, as Hydrogaurd is a lightweight in this category. My rot was so prevalent, I got a water chiller. I did however not use Hydrogaurd this run, and although I don't have root rot or unhealthy roots by any means, my roots are not staying as sparkling white as they did when I use Hydrogaurd, so I will always use it from this run on, unless the SM-90 ends up giving my roots that brilliance
Canna PK 13/14(not necessary): GOD DAMN! THIS SHIT WORKS!! I have never had trichomes on the fan leaves by the end of the 3rd week into flower until I started using this shit. The buds really do get frosty as fuck, and pack on the wieght. I use Bramsky's(I think) formula of 1ml/ltr from weeks 3-6, instead of the bottles recommended dose of 1.5ml/gal. He went through like 5 runs testing out different dosages over different periods, and found that to be the most effective. Actually, I start the first week of using it at .75 ml, and maybe the last week too. It is really easy to burn w/ this stuff, so watch closely for burns. If you are burning them, back the PK off to .5ml/liter. Use it though, or something similar at least. I have thought about using Hydroplex, but this shit works so well, I'm afraid to leave it
Cal-Mag(necessary if using R.O. water) - Because the PBP line is meant for tap water. If your tap is real bad, like over 300ppm, you should use RO water and Cal-Mag
LK, Floralicious(not necessary) - I think most people agree, including myself, that some kind of one of these seaweed based additives is a must for maximum growth. I view most of them the same really, and have not, nor really will try to, do a comparison. I like LK because they list the ingredients, but I like the nasty smell from the Floralicious.
SM-90 (not necessary) - A surfacent. This stuff helps to keep the roots, rez, and misters clean. sortIt does work as far as that goes. This is my first run using it, and I started using it just a couple of weeks ago. Pretty handy stuff. It is also suppose to be useful against critters of all sorts too, including mites, which are bad in my area, and destroyed my last crop.
I grow in a Lothar aero/NFT setup fitted w/ high pressure pump and misters.
Here's my routine: First, I add the additives. Like I mentioned before^, this will be about half of the PPM's. Then I add the Base nute(PBP) to reach the desired PPM. 300-350 early veg(6-8"), 500-600 bigger veg(10-12"), 750-850 flower. I adjust the nute level so that it stays the same, or goes slightly down every day. That is to say: If my PPM is say 800, and the next day it is 830, then I know it is too high, and I need to bring it down to say 750. At 750, it might be say 744 the next day, so I will leave it, and just keep check it daily. If it goes down too low, I will raise it back up. It is perfect if the ppm's stay close to the same every day, which rarely happens, as the plant goes through different processes and uses different amounts of nutrients.
I change my rez once a week. I drain it about 80%, and refill it w/ RO water and SM-90 on Saturday. I let that run overnight, and into the next day for a good flush. The afternoon or so the next day, I throw in the additives and Base nutes, and start the week all over.
Take note: My gallon of Cal-Mag is a little more then 3 x the strength in PPM's it says on the bottle. A rep at Botanicare told me I should go by the PPM's, and not the bottle. for me 1.5ml = approximately what the bottle says for 5ml. Everyone here should check that if they are having problems, because it was giving me serious problems before I called them up on it.
I have divided my flowering into 4 stages: Transition, Flowering, Finish, and flush. Basically, I use a mix of veg/bloom in transition, stop the superthrive and start the PK booster and straight PBP Bloom in the flowering, Stop the PK and PBP bloom and start the PBP"soil" bloom in finish, and run at 1/4 strength for a couple days to flush.
And finally, Here's my schedule, assuming an 8 week strain.
Veg:
Superthrive - couple drops per gallon
Liquid Karma - 10ml/gal
Hydrogaurd - 15ml/gal
SM-90 - 3ml/gal
Cal-Mag - 1ml/gal
Pure Blend Pro Grow - Add to desired PPM
Transitional (week 1 & 2 of 12/12)
Basically, everything is the same, except use a 50/50 mix of PBP bloom and grow base ferts. I used to switch straight to bloom formula at the onset of 12/12, but I used a transitional formula of Botanicares "Triflex" series this time around, and definately am having much lusher growth as a result.
Flowering (weeks 3 - 6)
Start Canna PK 13/14 @ .75-1ml/liter
Stop Superthrive
Hydrogaurd - 15ml/gal
Liquid Karma - 15ml/gal
SM-90 - 3ml/gal
Cal-Mag - 3ml/gal
Switch from veg/bloom mix to PBP Bloom - Top to desired PPM.
Finish (weeks 7 & 8)
Stop Canna PK 13/14
Hydrogaurd - 15ml/gal
Liquid Karma - 15ml/gal
SM-90 - 3ml/gal
Cal-Mag - 2ml/gal
Switch from PBP Bloom to PBP Bloom "Soil" - Top to desired ppm
I think I may get some additive called "Overdrive" this time, but I don't know yet.
Flush(last couple days)
I just drain the rez 3/4, and refill w/ RO water. You may want to use an organic flushing agent.
I am also looking into cutting out the Cal-Mag from the finishing stage, as it is the only non-organic at that time.
I also mess w/ the lighting at the end of flower if I want a strain to "finish on time", and it appears as if it will not on it's own. This just means I cut the lights back to 8 or 10 hours, dependant on how much of a push they need, to hurry the gals up a bit. This is the method that makes sense to me, compared to the 48 hours dark thing. That's just me though, and is only intended to help them by a few days, or a week. I definately would never try to push a sative by 3 weeks or something. If you do, you'll most likely just end up w/ scragly premature herbs.
Holy cow! I just meant to post my schedule, and then I ended up writing all this! lol..
Well, there it is, anyways.
Anyways, Botanicare is the shit. I love the stuff. My ph is always perfect. In fact, it takes 10 days for the ph to start getting whack, which I see as a sign of nutrient imbalance.
About half of the "additives" I use are actually nutrients. Cal-Mag and Canna PK 13/14 are straight up fertilizers, and not really additives, as they contain nothing but nutrients. LK is a mostly additive additive, but I think it has some N in it or something, which you should just at least take note of. I'm actually using Floralicious this run, cause I had it sitting around and wanted to get rid of it. While Floralicious is basically GH's version of the all around seaweed extract additive, comparible to LK, it does have a 1:1:1, which makes it a fert as well as an additive. Anyways, I think that is important to notice for newcomers. If you read my ppm's, they are at like 400-500 ppm after adding the additives, when I only run at like 800ppm's, but that is mainly because of all the ferts in the additives.
These are all the additives and/or, and why I use them. Some of them are necessities for healthy plants, and others just...helpful
If you are starting out growing, I would suggest trying to keep your nutrients and additives to a minimum. This will make it easier to identify problems. Superthrive (not necessary): Cause it's cheap, and old schoolers say it works. Helps root cell division and ease stress. Only use in veg.
Hydrogaurd(Helpful for root rotvprevention): I started using enzyme products cause I used to get root rot bad. I would recommend Cannazyme if you expect a hefty battle w/ root rot, as Hydrogaurd is a lightweight in this category. My rot was so prevalent, I got a water chiller. I did however not use Hydrogaurd this run, and although I don't have root rot or unhealthy roots by any means, my roots are not staying as sparkling white as they did when I use Hydrogaurd, so I will always use it from this run on, unless the SM-90 ends up giving my roots that brilliance
Canna PK 13/14(not necessary): GOD DAMN! THIS SHIT WORKS!! I have never had trichomes on the fan leaves by the end of the 3rd week into flower until I started using this shit. The buds really do get frosty as fuck, and pack on the wieght. I use Bramsky's(I think) formula of 1ml/ltr from weeks 3-6, instead of the bottles recommended dose of 1.5ml/gal. He went through like 5 runs testing out different dosages over different periods, and found that to be the most effective. Actually, I start the first week of using it at .75 ml, and maybe the last week too. It is really easy to burn w/ this stuff, so watch closely for burns. If you are burning them, back the PK off to .5ml/liter. Use it though, or something similar at least. I have thought about using Hydroplex, but this shit works so well, I'm afraid to leave it
Cal-Mag(necessary if using R.O. water) - Because the PBP line is meant for tap water. If your tap is real bad, like over 300ppm, you should use RO water and Cal-Mag
LK, Floralicious(not necessary) - I think most people agree, including myself, that some kind of one of these seaweed based additives is a must for maximum growth. I view most of them the same really, and have not, nor really will try to, do a comparison. I like LK because they list the ingredients, but I like the nasty smell from the Floralicious.
SM-90 (not necessary) - A surfacent. This stuff helps to keep the roots, rez, and misters clean. sortIt does work as far as that goes. This is my first run using it, and I started using it just a couple of weeks ago. Pretty handy stuff. It is also suppose to be useful against critters of all sorts too, including mites, which are bad in my area, and destroyed my last crop.
I grow in a Lothar aero/NFT setup fitted w/ high pressure pump and misters.
Here's my routine: First, I add the additives. Like I mentioned before^, this will be about half of the PPM's. Then I add the Base nute(PBP) to reach the desired PPM. 300-350 early veg(6-8"), 500-600 bigger veg(10-12"), 750-850 flower. I adjust the nute level so that it stays the same, or goes slightly down every day. That is to say: If my PPM is say 800, and the next day it is 830, then I know it is too high, and I need to bring it down to say 750. At 750, it might be say 744 the next day, so I will leave it, and just keep check it daily. If it goes down too low, I will raise it back up. It is perfect if the ppm's stay close to the same every day, which rarely happens, as the plant goes through different processes and uses different amounts of nutrients.
I change my rez once a week. I drain it about 80%, and refill it w/ RO water and SM-90 on Saturday. I let that run overnight, and into the next day for a good flush. The afternoon or so the next day, I throw in the additives and Base nutes, and start the week all over.
Take note: My gallon of Cal-Mag is a little more then 3 x the strength in PPM's it says on the bottle. A rep at Botanicare told me I should go by the PPM's, and not the bottle. for me 1.5ml = approximately what the bottle says for 5ml. Everyone here should check that if they are having problems, because it was giving me serious problems before I called them up on it.
I have divided my flowering into 4 stages: Transition, Flowering, Finish, and flush. Basically, I use a mix of veg/bloom in transition, stop the superthrive and start the PK booster and straight PBP Bloom in the flowering, Stop the PK and PBP bloom and start the PBP"soil" bloom in finish, and run at 1/4 strength for a couple days to flush.
And finally, Here's my schedule, assuming an 8 week strain.
Veg:
Superthrive - couple drops per gallon
Liquid Karma - 10ml/gal
Hydrogaurd - 15ml/gal
SM-90 - 3ml/gal
Cal-Mag - 1ml/gal
Pure Blend Pro Grow - Add to desired PPM
Transitional (week 1 & 2 of 12/12)
Basically, everything is the same, except use a 50/50 mix of PBP bloom and grow base ferts. I used to switch straight to bloom formula at the onset of 12/12, but I used a transitional formula of Botanicares "Triflex" series this time around, and definately am having much lusher growth as a result.
Flowering (weeks 3 - 6)
Start Canna PK 13/14 @ .75-1ml/liter
Stop Superthrive
Hydrogaurd - 15ml/gal
Liquid Karma - 15ml/gal
SM-90 - 3ml/gal
Cal-Mag - 3ml/gal
Switch from veg/bloom mix to PBP Bloom - Top to desired PPM.
Finish (weeks 7 & 8)
Stop Canna PK 13/14
Hydrogaurd - 15ml/gal
Liquid Karma - 15ml/gal
SM-90 - 3ml/gal
Cal-Mag - 2ml/gal
Switch from PBP Bloom to PBP Bloom "Soil" - Top to desired ppm
I think I may get some additive called "Overdrive" this time, but I don't know yet.
Flush(last couple days)
I just drain the rez 3/4, and refill w/ RO water. You may want to use an organic flushing agent.
I am also looking into cutting out the Cal-Mag from the finishing stage, as it is the only non-organic at that time.
I also mess w/ the lighting at the end of flower if I want a strain to "finish on time", and it appears as if it will not on it's own. This just means I cut the lights back to 8 or 10 hours, dependant on how much of a push they need, to hurry the gals up a bit. This is the method that makes sense to me, compared to the 48 hours dark thing. That's just me though, and is only intended to help them by a few days, or a week. I definately would never try to push a sative by 3 weeks or something. If you do, you'll most likely just end up w/ scragly premature herbs.
Holy cow! I just meant to post my schedule, and then I ended up writing all this! lol..
Well, there it is, anyways.
Last edited:
2
20kw dreams
lol..Yeah, I was impressed w/ that one too! So impressed, I made it a thread over at OG
Thank you for the warm welcome sunnyside I've been hearing great things about the atmosphere over here.
Thank you for the warm welcome sunnyside I've been hearing great things about the atmosphere over here.
I gotta concede with sunny regarding a foolproof dummy plan to grow well done 20kw,I have seen your post before and welcome you to our humble little hide out all input is welcome. I got hooked on Bio Products about a year ago by my Mentor Texas Kid and have some fine grows to show over at the Organic Hydro section and must say my pen has dust on it. These products as I have well stated cost a little extra to use as a complete grow line but damn aren't the kids worth a few extra bucks. Try the line Once watch your plants they will tell you what they want follow the above post and you will have this to show for it in a few months:
Mr.Wags
Mr.Wags
Last edited:
G
Guest
My first grow with PBP, and I'm using the following:
3 gal. R.O. Water
30ml Liquid Karma
5ml CalMag +
10ml Fox Farm Big Bloom
20ml of PBP Bloom
EC is at 1.1 and pH is at 5.6
3 gal. R.O. Water
30ml Liquid Karma
5ml CalMag +
10ml Fox Farm Big Bloom
20ml of PBP Bloom
EC is at 1.1 and pH is at 5.6
G
Guest
PBP is the best thing since sliced bread. I'm not even going to try anything else. I use the veg , bloom, bloom for soil and Cal Mag. That's it, I can't see a need for anything else. Oh yeah RO water and no need for a pH meter or a TDS meter anymore. I haven't used pH up or down since I started using it, the pH goes way down at first but it doesn't seem to matter. PBP is 50 ppms per Ml, and since I have my strains dialed in I don't even break out my TDS meter...god it couldn't get any easier. If you are lazy like me PBP is the stuff.
G
Guest
Puppetmug,
How much cal mag do use use per gallon of RO and what grow method do you use?
thx
How much cal mag do use use per gallon of RO and what grow method do you use?
thx
G
Guest
I use 25 Ml per 5 gallons (so 5 Ml per gallon) cal mag. I am a Sog, F&D guy. Man, I used to use GH, and it's like night and day.
Oh yeah Im use dwc tubs for mother plants.
Oh yeah Im use dwc tubs for mother plants.
Last edited:
OldSoG
Member
regardless of water type or medium i use 15ml of pure blend pro per gal. SWEET contains 1.5% magnesium so when used in conjunction with pbp(.5%mag) you'll get your magnesium up to 2%. if i used RO water i would probably use SWEET instead CALMAG.
calmag should be used at 5ml per gal for RO water and added before the pbp.
peace,
OS
calmag should be used at 5ml per gal for RO water and added before the pbp.
peace,
OS
G
Guest
W'sup OldSog, the reason that I ask about dosage and grow method is that on my last run I had overdone the N and traced that back to the CalMag I used (5 ml per gal ro). I use no medium in aeroponics so no buffering to help with mistakes There is a descrepancy in the label's dosage reccomendations and what they say is in that dose.... I'll look for it.
Last edited:
G
Guest
This is my concern:
Cal-Mag Plus
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Cal-Mag Label:
Use 1-2 tsp (5-10ml) per gallon of nutrient solution. Two tsp will achieve a supplment of:
(N) 52ppm
(Ca) 83ppm
(Mg) 31ppm
(Fe) 2.5ppm
That's 168.5ppm. Who knows what conversion factor they use when even mentioning ppm. Nonetheless, 5ml in a gallon of R/O (12 u/s) results in 485 u/s. The most generous of conversion factors commonly used is a .5 which would still be 242ppm.
The label on my pure blend pro calls for 5ml/g of Cal-Mag if using R/O water. 5ml should equate to 84.25ppm if going off their label. Again, assuming a .5 conversion factor to go from ppm to u/s that should be 168.5 u/s as a base before adding the pure blend pro.
Am I missing something here or is my bottle 300% strength or something? Certainly would explain why I've wanted to throw this stuff away in the past. I understand it's a 'Guaranteed MINIMUM Analysis' and a fairly common practice is for manufacturers to gives just a little more to stay on the safe side, but 300% might be a little detrimental. On the bright side, I guess it's going to last a lot longer (unless I'm missing something here, which is my real question to you all).
This is where I found some trouble with cal-mag...
Cal-Mag Plus
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Cal-Mag Label:
Use 1-2 tsp (5-10ml) per gallon of nutrient solution. Two tsp will achieve a supplment of:
(N) 52ppm
(Ca) 83ppm
(Mg) 31ppm
(Fe) 2.5ppm
That's 168.5ppm. Who knows what conversion factor they use when even mentioning ppm. Nonetheless, 5ml in a gallon of R/O (12 u/s) results in 485 u/s. The most generous of conversion factors commonly used is a .5 which would still be 242ppm.
The label on my pure blend pro calls for 5ml/g of Cal-Mag if using R/O water. 5ml should equate to 84.25ppm if going off their label. Again, assuming a .5 conversion factor to go from ppm to u/s that should be 168.5 u/s as a base before adding the pure blend pro.
Am I missing something here or is my bottle 300% strength or something? Certainly would explain why I've wanted to throw this stuff away in the past. I understand it's a 'Guaranteed MINIMUM Analysis' and a fairly common practice is for manufacturers to gives just a little more to stay on the safe side, but 300% might be a little detrimental. On the bright side, I guess it's going to last a lot longer (unless I'm missing something here, which is my real question to you all).
This is where I found some trouble with cal-mag...
elemental ppm is not the same as EC or TDS
elemental ppm is not the same as EC or TDS
> That's 168.5ppm. Who knows what conversion factor they use when even mentioning ppm
you cant add up the active ingredients, which is what they are listing, and come up with a matching EC. The two values, though both referred to as ppm, are totally unrelated.
EC is the electrical conductivity, and for hydro there is a conversion factor called 4-4-2, or .7 conversion, that attempts to guesstimate the net ppms of the solution.
but the ppms that is calculated mathematically from the percentage of each nutrient on the label, is a totally different animal. For example, N does not read on a TDS or EC meter, but it certainly has ppms in the solution if you do the math of the percentage ingredients on the label.
for example
GH Flora Micro @8ml/gal plus 16ml/gal of Flora Bloom has an EC of about 1.9, approximately 1330ppm of TDS on a .7 conversion meter.
However, if you add up the results of the guaranteed analysis, you will only get a total of 673 ppm accounted for
with PBPBloom @15ml/gal plus 5ml/gal Cal Mag, you may get an EC of about 1.8 and a .7 conversion TDS of about 1270, but the calculated ppms will only be 568ppm
I do recommend the PBPBloom@15ml/gal plus 5ml/gal of Cal Mag. I call it GrowGreen's "Organic" Hydro Formula.
hth
Lucas
elemental ppm is not the same as EC or TDS
> That's 168.5ppm. Who knows what conversion factor they use when even mentioning ppm
you cant add up the active ingredients, which is what they are listing, and come up with a matching EC. The two values, though both referred to as ppm, are totally unrelated.
EC is the electrical conductivity, and for hydro there is a conversion factor called 4-4-2, or .7 conversion, that attempts to guesstimate the net ppms of the solution.
but the ppms that is calculated mathematically from the percentage of each nutrient on the label, is a totally different animal. For example, N does not read on a TDS or EC meter, but it certainly has ppms in the solution if you do the math of the percentage ingredients on the label.
for example
GH Flora Micro @8ml/gal plus 16ml/gal of Flora Bloom has an EC of about 1.9, approximately 1330ppm of TDS on a .7 conversion meter.
However, if you add up the results of the guaranteed analysis, you will only get a total of 673 ppm accounted for
with PBPBloom @15ml/gal plus 5ml/gal Cal Mag, you may get an EC of about 1.8 and a .7 conversion TDS of about 1270, but the calculated ppms will only be 568ppm
I do recommend the PBPBloom@15ml/gal plus 5ml/gal of Cal Mag. I call it GrowGreen's "Organic" Hydro Formula.
hth
Lucas
Last edited:
Lucas:
How do you feel about going with PBPB for soil (1.5-4-5) as opposed to the regular, or is that what u already mean? (glad to see you here by the way) ...I cant see how how the regular PBPB has enough P.
puppetmug:
at what point do you switch to the soil formula, or do you mix them (-pro and pro for soil) at any point?
Great tip
How do you feel about going with PBPB for soil (1.5-4-5) as opposed to the regular, or is that what u already mean? (glad to see you here by the way) ...I cant see how how the regular PBPB has enough P.
puppetmug:
at what point do you switch to the soil formula, or do you mix them (-pro and pro for soil) at any point?
Great tip
IF PB bloom soil has .5% Mg, the result of 15ml/gal pbbsoil plus 5 cal mag is
N 91
P 69
K 164
Mg 39
it looks like a good mix to me. I think especially in soil, it is common to use lower strengths of nutes, because they can build up in the medium over successive irrigations. I especially like that it is closer to a 1-1-2 ratio between the N-P-K
now here is 15 PBPBloom plus 5 cal mag
161
45
214
45
The PBPBloom version of the formula has more of a 2-.5-2 NPK ratio, which to me is more of a veg formula than a bloom formula..
but I cant deny that folks get great results with the PBPBloom product combined with Cal Mag, regardless what I think of the numbers and ratios
I think overall, that the plants are happy in a pretty wide range of nute levels and proportions, and in some cases nutes that seem weak, are not, because of how they accumulate in some styles of growing in pots of medium
btw, the new product, sweet, has epsom salt in it, but not nitrogen. if you use the soil version of PB bloom, I think the extra nitrogen in Cal mag is a better choice, while also boosting the Mg, which is low in PBP
my guess is the PBP mix will produce slightly greener leaves than the PB soil mix, and larger diameter but hollower stems. probably more leaf yield too, although not necessarily more resin.
both recipes probably work fine, but, verify the Mg level on the soil version, I entered it as .5%
the 91ppm of N in the soil formula is rather low, but the N level in PBP Grow is 186ppm, so if you start with that, you are preloading the N levels, in a good way.
PBP Grow @15ml plus 5 cal mag
186
34
171
45
In fact, Im currently interested in learning more about results people have using veg nutes with close to 200ppm of N, during the first 3 weeks of bloom. It seems it could be a nice yield enhancer.
I wonder what puppetmug does? I mean when he switches from grow to bloom nutes.. Im glad you asked him..
Lucas
N 91
P 69
K 164
Mg 39
it looks like a good mix to me. I think especially in soil, it is common to use lower strengths of nutes, because they can build up in the medium over successive irrigations. I especially like that it is closer to a 1-1-2 ratio between the N-P-K
now here is 15 PBPBloom plus 5 cal mag
161
45
214
45
The PBPBloom version of the formula has more of a 2-.5-2 NPK ratio, which to me is more of a veg formula than a bloom formula..
but I cant deny that folks get great results with the PBPBloom product combined with Cal Mag, regardless what I think of the numbers and ratios
I think overall, that the plants are happy in a pretty wide range of nute levels and proportions, and in some cases nutes that seem weak, are not, because of how they accumulate in some styles of growing in pots of medium
btw, the new product, sweet, has epsom salt in it, but not nitrogen. if you use the soil version of PB bloom, I think the extra nitrogen in Cal mag is a better choice, while also boosting the Mg, which is low in PBP
my guess is the PBP mix will produce slightly greener leaves than the PB soil mix, and larger diameter but hollower stems. probably more leaf yield too, although not necessarily more resin.
both recipes probably work fine, but, verify the Mg level on the soil version, I entered it as .5%
the 91ppm of N in the soil formula is rather low, but the N level in PBP Grow is 186ppm, so if you start with that, you are preloading the N levels, in a good way.
PBP Grow @15ml plus 5 cal mag
186
34
171
45
In fact, Im currently interested in learning more about results people have using veg nutes with close to 200ppm of N, during the first 3 weeks of bloom. It seems it could be a nice yield enhancer.
I wonder what puppetmug does? I mean when he switches from grow to bloom nutes.. Im glad you asked him..
Lucas
- Status
