I don't have a camera handy, but here is some ascii artGot a pic?
.pump----t---output
..............|
..............|
...........valve (open valve lowers output, close valve raises output)
I don't have a camera handy, but here is some ascii artGot a pic?
Well I suck at ASCII art too so here are some pics;What would happen if you skipped the wicks and let the roots grow into the res, and kept the res level constant? The immediate thought is that the roots would rot, right? But then again, the air roots up top would still be taking in the air, so maybe it would work?
Is it possible that the plant could pump oxygen into the res water to keep it from going rotten? I dunno, plants seem pretty cluey sometimes.
If the roots would just rot, then ok, I understand.
I don't have a camera handy, but here is some ascii art
.pump----t---output
..............|
..............|
...........valve (open valve lowers output, close valve raises output)
I read the first 200 replies last week and was highly intrigued. I just loaded the rest of the thread and am going to read the whole lot over xmas. Hope nobody turns my laptop off, lol. (no internet at home)
Really nice work D9. I'll have plenty of questions when I'm done I'm sure.
What would happen if you skipped the wicks and let the roots grow into the res, and kept the res level constant? The immediate thought is that the roots would rot, right? But then again, the air roots up top would still be taking in the air, so maybe it would work?
Is it possible that the plant could pump oxygen into the res water to keep it from going rotten? I dunno, plants seem pretty cluey sometimes.
If the roots would just rot, then ok, I understand.
Finally, a little off the topic but kinda passive related - you know how lots of people say airstones don't help in hempies? Well I've never tried it, but I find that difficult to believe. I just had a hempy plant contract root rot or something (certain branches wilt despite good moisture level)
So my idea, which I shamelessly pilferred from the OBBTs, is to.....well, let me explain. With the OBBTs you get a constant slow flow of air through the actual media, right? And that's a good thing from the sounds of it. But I remember there was some issues with some OBBTs, where you had to make a little tube airlock or something so the air doesn't just squirt out the hole - forcing it instead through the medium.
So my idea is to make a little sheath/airlock thing, on the inside of a hempy, covering the drain hole. When there is water in the res, this will force the bubbled air only up through the medium, and not out the little hempy hole. Water should still run out as normal though.
Here is my ascii art impression of it:
iwhjeb84y2r92rq
f87reyr0490osllk
66666666666uuu
But alas, I'm terrible at ascii art.
I dunno if any of this is even an issue but while I'm around some kindred souls, thought I would put it out there. Any thoughts? Take care
can the PPK style be used with other mediums? Maybe with smaller holes in the sidewall?
I really love growing in perlite. Even a 5 gallon bucket full of perlite is light as a feather. Sometimes I have back problems so it's nice to have a lightweight medium.
Hey D9, quick question. The large plant I have between two lights is showing super dense leaf and bud formation on all the branches closest to the light. Is this OK? j/k I am seeing some leaf curl on those areas though. Have you run into that? Could be too dry in there...
Blumat observation - watching a single Blumat on a 2gal coco pot watering a 6ft monster I noticed it was dripping almost 2 drops/second! Thought I may have another runaway. Checked again an hour later and it's still crankin...pot it just staying moist, not wet at all. I think it's REALLY cool to watch exactly how much a plant is drinking at a given moment. Still want to switch to PPK's though.
hi, zeke99! welcome!
omg! i hope you have corrected the problem in time. we certainly don't want you experiencing the dreaded "too much giant, heavy bud on one side of the plant so it falls over onto the floor and you have to smoke that nasty, dirty, floor bud" syndrome. i have personally been through such an ordeal and it was traumatic. i felt so underprivileged.
leaf twist like someone has taken a leaf petal and twisted the outer portion 90 degrees? if, as you say, it's only the portions closest to the light it is probably the plant trying to avoid further light saturation. the plant is physically adapting to high photon flow. sort of like how in a sailboat you trim and reduce sail area to adjust for high wind.
i think it is tied to humidity and temperature also but not sure how much.
it's the big problem indoors. we are forced to run lights a close as possible in front to compensate for lack of penetration to the rear or interior or bottom.
this is a major hurdle to indoor yield that i feel has not been properly addressed yet.
i have several approaches to this that i want to try soon in view of dr. elsohly's findings.
runaway blumats huh? i knew they were ungrateful little shits but to actually runaway is inexcusable.
i've looked at them and am intrigued by the idea but can't figure a way to make them work right that does not get more complicated or trouble prone than what i'm doing now. this pulse feed is super reliable and very effective at mixing gases around in the root zone.
but if you get turned on by watching blumats drip then you are going to love watching the float valve drip with ppk's. i think it could be a very useful learning tool.
d9