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Outdoor 2012
- Thread starter foxy
- Start date
Mene pa zanima kdaj se doda recimo mix za cvetenje iz pepela (K) in npr. Guanokalong prah ( N=2%, P=15%, K=2%, Ca=15%, Mg=0,08 + mikro elementi).
Koliko pepela bi dodali za povprečno bilko (npr. 50-150g) in pa pepel od katerega drevesa, našel sem en dober članek :
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/wood-ash-can-be-useful-yard-if-used-caution
Kjer pravi npr gleds rodovitnosti:
The fertilizer value of wood ash depends on the type of wood you burn. As a general rule, hardwoods such as oak weigh more per cord and yield more ash per pound of wood burned. Hardwood ash contains a higher percentage of nutrients than ash from softwoods such as Douglas-fir or pine.
"Hardwoods produce approximately three times as much ash per cord and five times as many nutrients per cord as softwoods," said Sullivan.
Doza, ampak ne za travo, predvidevam da se doda malo več?
One-half to one pound of wood ash per year is recommended for each shrub and rose bush. Spread ash evenly on the soil around perennial plants. Rake the ash into the soil lightly, being careful not to damage the roots. Never leave ash in lumps or piles, because if it is concentrated in one place, excessive salt from the ash will leach into the soil, creating a harmful environment for plants.
Zna biti tudi toksičen:
Lawns needing some lime and potassium can also benefit from wood ash. Apply no more than 10-15 pounds of ash per 1,000-square feet of lawn; at high levels, ash can be toxic. Do not use if soil pH is more than 7.0 or if potassium levels are excessive.
Za škodljivce:
If used judiciously, wood ash can be used to repel insects, slugs and snails, because it draws water from invertebrates' bodies. Sprinkle ash around the base of your plants to discourage surface feeding pests. But once ash gets wet, it loses its deterring properties. Continual use of ash in this way may increase the soil pH too much, or accumulate high salt levels harmful to plants.
itd.
Kakšen hrast ali kaj podobnega?
lp
Koliko pepela bi dodali za povprečno bilko (npr. 50-150g) in pa pepel od katerega drevesa, našel sem en dober članek :
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/wood-ash-can-be-useful-yard-if-used-caution
Kjer pravi npr gleds rodovitnosti:
The fertilizer value of wood ash depends on the type of wood you burn. As a general rule, hardwoods such as oak weigh more per cord and yield more ash per pound of wood burned. Hardwood ash contains a higher percentage of nutrients than ash from softwoods such as Douglas-fir or pine.
"Hardwoods produce approximately three times as much ash per cord and five times as many nutrients per cord as softwoods," said Sullivan.
Doza, ampak ne za travo, predvidevam da se doda malo več?
One-half to one pound of wood ash per year is recommended for each shrub and rose bush. Spread ash evenly on the soil around perennial plants. Rake the ash into the soil lightly, being careful not to damage the roots. Never leave ash in lumps or piles, because if it is concentrated in one place, excessive salt from the ash will leach into the soil, creating a harmful environment for plants.
Zna biti tudi toksičen:
Lawns needing some lime and potassium can also benefit from wood ash. Apply no more than 10-15 pounds of ash per 1,000-square feet of lawn; at high levels, ash can be toxic. Do not use if soil pH is more than 7.0 or if potassium levels are excessive.
Za škodljivce:
If used judiciously, wood ash can be used to repel insects, slugs and snails, because it draws water from invertebrates' bodies. Sprinkle ash around the base of your plants to discourage surface feeding pests. But once ash gets wet, it loses its deterring properties. Continual use of ash in this way may increase the soil pH too much, or accumulate high salt levels harmful to plants.
itd.
Kakšen hrast ali kaj podobnega?
lp
Na tej strani sem našel malo bolj konkretne podatke: http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~blpprt/bestwoodash.html
Ash is composed of many major and minor elements needed by the tree for plant growth (Table 1). Since most of these elements are extracted from the soil and atmosphere during the tree's growth cycle, they are elements that are common in our environment and are also essential elements in the production of crops and forages. Calcium is the most abundant element in wood ash and gives the ash properties that are similar to agricultural lime. Ash is also a good source of potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and aluminum. In terms of commercial fertilizer, average wood ash would probably be about 0-1-3 (N-P-K). In addition to these macronutrients, wood ash is also a good source of many micronutrients that are needed in trace amounts for adequate plant growth. Wood ash contains few elements that pose environmental problems. Heavy metal concentrations are typically low and not in a highly extractable or available form.
Field and greenhouse research have confirmed the safety and practicality of recycling wood ash on agricultural lands. It has shown that wood ash has a liming effect of between 8 and 90% of the total neutralizing power of lime and can increase plant growth up to 45% over traditional limestone. The major constraints to land application of wood ash are transportation costs, low fertilizer analysis, and handling constraints. With ever increasing disposal costs, land application of wood ash will probably be the disposal method of choice in the coming century resulting in savings for the industry, an opportunity for agriculture, and conservation of our resources.
For example, if two tons of lime are needed per acre and the ash has a CCE of 50%, then four tons of ash would be required. While this calculation is relatively easy to make, it is strongly recommended that producers allow the county extension agent or other qualified individuals to calculate appropriate application rates. At times, fertilizer application rates may also need to be reduced when liming with wood ash as the ash may contain significant amounts of plant nutrients. Therefore, if additional fertilizer applications are being used, they should be formulated to insure that the plant requirements for these elements are not being exceeded, especially on crops that are known to be sensitive to particular nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium.
One of the major obstacles to land spreading of wood ash is the undesirable handling and spreading characteristics of ash. Most ash has a low density and small particle size and consequently creates dust problems during transport and application. Wood ash should always be covered during transport to prevent losses in route to the application sites. Studies indicate that the handling characteristics of ash generally improve with increasing relative humidity so attempts should be made to avoid spreading on extremely dry days. Moisture can be added to improve the handling characteristics of ash, however, if too much moisture is added the ash will cake and become difficult to spread uniformly. Ash can be spread with conventional manure spreading or lime application equipment and is either top dressed or incorporated. To get the maximum benefit, incorporate the wood ash throughout the root zone whenever possible as the benefits only occur where the ash and soil are in contact. It is also essential to calibrate the spreader to insure that the target application rate is met. Due to the physical characteristics of ash, it is often difficult to obtain uniform application, but calibration and knowledge of the application distribution of the spreader can help to minimize non-uniformity.
The fall is generally the best time for wood ash application. Soil pH is generally lower in the fall and applications at this time will allow the ash will have plenty of time to react with the soil before rapid spring growth. Soils are also usually drier and more accessible in the fall. Application at other times throughout the year is acceptable; however, ash should not be applied immediately preceding planting or during early emergence as it could cause short term concentrated alkaline conditions that could interfere with plant growth. Ash may also absorb pesticides if it not given time to neutralize in the soil, so chemical applications should be avoided for three to five days prior to or after wood ash application.
In summary, wood ash application is similar to lime application. Both materials can benefit crop productivity but wood ash has an added advantage of supplying additional nutrients. Both materials are also alkaline and could cause crop damage if over applied or misused. It is imperative that the land owners follow the prescribed application rates and use common sense approaches to prevent accidents and avoid environmental contamination.
Še primerjalna tabela med pepelom in apnencem:
Očitno je bolje da se da jeseni ampak kaj pa če dodam zdaj v kratkem oz. ko začne cvetet?
lp
Ash is composed of many major and minor elements needed by the tree for plant growth (Table 1). Since most of these elements are extracted from the soil and atmosphere during the tree's growth cycle, they are elements that are common in our environment and are also essential elements in the production of crops and forages. Calcium is the most abundant element in wood ash and gives the ash properties that are similar to agricultural lime. Ash is also a good source of potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and aluminum. In terms of commercial fertilizer, average wood ash would probably be about 0-1-3 (N-P-K). In addition to these macronutrients, wood ash is also a good source of many micronutrients that are needed in trace amounts for adequate plant growth. Wood ash contains few elements that pose environmental problems. Heavy metal concentrations are typically low and not in a highly extractable or available form.
Field and greenhouse research have confirmed the safety and practicality of recycling wood ash on agricultural lands. It has shown that wood ash has a liming effect of between 8 and 90% of the total neutralizing power of lime and can increase plant growth up to 45% over traditional limestone. The major constraints to land application of wood ash are transportation costs, low fertilizer analysis, and handling constraints. With ever increasing disposal costs, land application of wood ash will probably be the disposal method of choice in the coming century resulting in savings for the industry, an opportunity for agriculture, and conservation of our resources.
For example, if two tons of lime are needed per acre and the ash has a CCE of 50%, then four tons of ash would be required. While this calculation is relatively easy to make, it is strongly recommended that producers allow the county extension agent or other qualified individuals to calculate appropriate application rates. At times, fertilizer application rates may also need to be reduced when liming with wood ash as the ash may contain significant amounts of plant nutrients. Therefore, if additional fertilizer applications are being used, they should be formulated to insure that the plant requirements for these elements are not being exceeded, especially on crops that are known to be sensitive to particular nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium.
One of the major obstacles to land spreading of wood ash is the undesirable handling and spreading characteristics of ash. Most ash has a low density and small particle size and consequently creates dust problems during transport and application. Wood ash should always be covered during transport to prevent losses in route to the application sites. Studies indicate that the handling characteristics of ash generally improve with increasing relative humidity so attempts should be made to avoid spreading on extremely dry days. Moisture can be added to improve the handling characteristics of ash, however, if too much moisture is added the ash will cake and become difficult to spread uniformly. Ash can be spread with conventional manure spreading or lime application equipment and is either top dressed or incorporated. To get the maximum benefit, incorporate the wood ash throughout the root zone whenever possible as the benefits only occur where the ash and soil are in contact. It is also essential to calibrate the spreader to insure that the target application rate is met. Due to the physical characteristics of ash, it is often difficult to obtain uniform application, but calibration and knowledge of the application distribution of the spreader can help to minimize non-uniformity.
The fall is generally the best time for wood ash application. Soil pH is generally lower in the fall and applications at this time will allow the ash will have plenty of time to react with the soil before rapid spring growth. Soils are also usually drier and more accessible in the fall. Application at other times throughout the year is acceptable; however, ash should not be applied immediately preceding planting or during early emergence as it could cause short term concentrated alkaline conditions that could interfere with plant growth. Ash may also absorb pesticides if it not given time to neutralize in the soil, so chemical applications should be avoided for three to five days prior to or after wood ash application.
In summary, wood ash application is similar to lime application. Both materials can benefit crop productivity but wood ash has an added advantage of supplying additional nutrients. Both materials are also alkaline and could cause crop damage if over applied or misused. It is imperative that the land owners follow the prescribed application rates and use common sense approaches to prevent accidents and avoid environmental contamination.
Še primerjalna tabela med pepelom in apnencem:
Očitno je bolje da se da jeseni ampak kaj pa če dodam zdaj v kratkem oz. ko začne cvetet?
lp
Zdravo
Prvi moj post...
Mal sm pozn... a lahko za IN še vedno growam in ali morjo biti semena awtoflow? (Na hitro kaj sploh je prednost awtoflowa)
Hvala v naprej! lpj
Pa še nasvet glede zemlje ... mam eno zemljo od rož za balkonsko cvetje ki je zakon za rože (suha, lesnata prst) (pa še drugo mal bolj gosto teško prst) Kaj naj še na mešam zraven.
P.s. prebral sm res veliko... na domačem forumu konxxxx.... sdej pa morm še prašat. (glede hidrota pa bom počakal saj me skrbi da je zadeva dokaj problematična z dodajanjem gnojil in kontrolo PH in nasičenosti vode z gnojili)
Hvala lp
Prvi moj post...
Mal sm pozn... a lahko za IN še vedno growam in ali morjo biti semena awtoflow? (Na hitro kaj sploh je prednost awtoflowa)
Hvala v naprej! lpj
Pa še nasvet glede zemlje ... mam eno zemljo od rož za balkonsko cvetje ki je zakon za rože (suha, lesnata prst) (pa še drugo mal bolj gosto teško prst) Kaj naj še na mešam zraven.
P.s. prebral sm res veliko... na domačem forumu konxxxx.... sdej pa morm še prašat. (glede hidrota pa bom počakal saj me skrbi da je zadeva dokaj problematična z dodajanjem gnojil in kontrolo PH in nasičenosti vode z gnojili)
Hvala lp
Rulz,če IN pomeni indoor,ni problema indoor lahko začneš kadarkoli.
Sam delam tako da pozimi naredim 1-2 rundi pod lampo(zaradi temperatur),in si pripravim klončke za zunaj.
Če pa misliš zdaj saditi zunaj,pa je res pozno.
Avtoflowering...Rastlina po določenem času vegetacije sama preide na cvetenje,neodvisno od ciklusa svetlobe(12-12 za normalne sorte).
Včasih so bli AF grdi raček,sedaj pa dobiš zelo spodobne sorte za indoor in outdoor!
Pa še glede zemlje..kolko para tolko muzike...če boš šparal na zemlji za indoor boš zelo razočaran,sam uporabljam Neuhouse N8 is sem zelo zadovoljen(potrebuje samo malo dognojevanja v cvetenju).
Sam delam tako da pozimi naredim 1-2 rundi pod lampo(zaradi temperatur),in si pripravim klončke za zunaj.
Če pa misliš zdaj saditi zunaj,pa je res pozno.
Avtoflowering...Rastlina po določenem času vegetacije sama preide na cvetenje,neodvisno od ciklusa svetlobe(12-12 za normalne sorte).
Včasih so bli AF grdi raček,sedaj pa dobiš zelo spodobne sorte za indoor in outdoor!
Pa še glede zemlje..kolko para tolko muzike...če boš šparal na zemlji za indoor boš zelo razočaran,sam uporabljam Neuhouse N8 is sem zelo zadovoljen(potrebuje samo malo dognojevanja v cvetenju).
Še moj outdoor 2012 GHE- Himalaya gold.
Velikost bilk je med 100-160cm, malo sem presenečen ker še nič ne cveti :/. Sadim že 4 lete Himalayo gold in je že takle čas začela cvetet :/
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918400
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918396
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918395
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918394
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918393
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918392
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918391
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918390
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918389
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918388
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918386
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918385
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918384
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918383
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918382
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918381
Velikost bilk je med 100-160cm, malo sem presenečen ker še nič ne cveti :/. Sadim že 4 lete Himalayo gold in je že takle čas začela cvetet :/
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918400
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918396
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918395
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918394
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918393
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918392
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918391
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918390
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918389
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918388
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918386
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918385
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918384
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918383
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918382
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=38836&pictureid=918381
Eno vprašanje fantje. Zdej mal berem po icmagu da med strechom futrajo rastline na max ker je zdej najbolj robustna rastlina, nekateri celo pravijo da 60% zraste v naslednjih 45 dneh, v kar sicer dvomim, verjamem pa da precej zaradi raztegovanja.
V glavnem 12-14 dni nazaj sem bilke pognojil z briketi bogatin cca 0.5 do 1l max na rastlino sem pač "topdresal". Zdej pa ker bo zelo hitro cvetenje ne vem če ma smisel še stresat bogatin, da ne bom imel na koncu okusa po dreku lol, kupil sem še en izdelek od compo za paradajze, imeli so veliko različnih, pa se mi je zdel ta najbolj primeren za cvetenje, prilagam slike:
Se pravi
N 4 %
P 8 %
K 10 % .... Glede na to da ima tudi nekaj dušika, je mogoče bolj smiselno da samo še s tem potresem in pol še mal pepela recimo dodam, kaj mislite??
lp
V glavnem 12-14 dni nazaj sem bilke pognojil z briketi bogatin cca 0.5 do 1l max na rastlino sem pač "topdresal". Zdej pa ker bo zelo hitro cvetenje ne vem če ma smisel še stresat bogatin, da ne bom imel na koncu okusa po dreku lol, kupil sem še en izdelek od compo za paradajze, imeli so veliko različnih, pa se mi je zdel ta najbolj primeren za cvetenje, prilagam slike:
Se pravi
N 4 %
P 8 %
K 10 % .... Glede na to da ima tudi nekaj dušika, je mogoče bolj smiselno da samo še s tem potresem in pol še mal pepela recimo dodam, kaj mislite??
lp
Nisem strokovnjak za outdoor,vendar se mi zdi preveč kompliciranja z zemljo in gnojili nekje v hosti potrata dela in denarja...
Če ni zemlja na placu totalno zanič,je bolj važno da je jama dovolj velika in da je primešanega dovolj agrogela.
Tale raste iz luknje fi 50*50 globine,zemlja je bila lepa ilovnata,primešal sem ji samo nekaj humusa izpod listavcev za prezračitev,agrogel in pest NPK-ja.
Slikano 1 teden nazaj,velike so 2 metra+ in začenjata cveteti
Zalito je bilo samo enkrat pa še to čisto tako,ker sem mi je ljubilo,ni bilo nikoli nobenih znakov žeje!
Če ni zemlja na placu totalno zanič,je bolj važno da je jama dovolj velika in da je primešanega dovolj agrogela.
Tale raste iz luknje fi 50*50 globine,zemlja je bila lepa ilovnata,primešal sem ji samo nekaj humusa izpod listavcev za prezračitev,agrogel in pest NPK-ja.
Slikano 1 teden nazaj,velike so 2 metra+ in začenjata cveteti
Zalito je bilo samo enkrat pa še to čisto tako,ker sem mi je ljubilo,ni bilo nikoli nobenih znakov žeje!
S
shush
lep pozdrav
black jack
in rocket chunk 2
black jack
in rocket chunk 2
