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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
otw-
You may want to look into making yourself a bubble cloner. When the roots get about 1/2 inch long, move the cutting into a 16 oz. cup of plain LC's mix until well rooted.
Burn1
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
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rupertb-
Did you wet your mix with the bone meal in it and wait two weeks before planting your seedlings in it? The reason I'm asking is because purple leaves often indicate a phosphorous deficiency.
Give it a couple more weeks and see if it improves.
Keep us posted.
Burn1
 

caljim

I'm on the edge. Of what I'm not sure.
Veteran
Great thread going here, well worth the read.

I just cant find the amounts of worm casting and molasses that Burn One is using to make his tea to water with for the LC soil recipies. Excuse me if I overlooked it:wallbash:, but I'm stumped. :1help:
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
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Veteran
BurnOne, many thanks for all the info provided in this thread and others. Going through the Organic forum brought out a wealth of info from yourself, Suby, Vonforne and others.

Just popped a few seeds directly into 16 oz cups of Light Warrior. I'm curious, should I just keep plain watering them as needed or would it be beneficial to include some food source, like a water & EWC tea?

I've germed directly in FFOF before and didn't feed for about 3 weeks but first time using LW. Wasn't sure if maybe I could give them a bump along from seed or if in the first week or so I should add some food to their waterings. I wouldn't need to use much I'd imagine, as the 16oz cups will only be used for 2-3 weeks, tops. Then they'll have 1 gal pots of OF to spread their legs in, which should allow for an even longer delay in hand feeding.

If food is appropriate for beans in LW, I was thinking of either a EWC & water tea or a drop of LK in the water source. Just thinking out loud...

Edit: LW bag says feed small dose of Big Bloom after 5 days, once sprouted and first set of leaves arrives start using Grow but that part is irrelevant, I'll have them in OF soon after and that'll provide food for a good 1-3 weeks, depending how hungry they are.

You can always use worm casting tea on seedlings. Add some molasses and a little seaweed as well. Just don't use any nitrogen!

Great thread going here, well worth the read.

I just cant find the amounts of worm casting and molasses that Burn One is using to make his tea to water with for the LC soil recipies. Excuse me if I overlooked it:wallbash:, but I'm stumped. :1help:

I use a cup of worm castings and about five tablespoons of molasses in a five gallon bucket of water to make worm casting tea.

Burn1
 

caljim

I'm on the edge. Of what I'm not sure.
Veteran
Burn One--- Many thanks for the quick reply ...off to bubble some goodness
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Those mixes are mostly plain old peat with a little perlite thrown in. Use it the same as you would use Pro Mix in LC's mixes. Definitely use 2 tbs. powdered dolomite lime per gallon of final mix. Also use some sort of humus like 20% worm castings or home made compost. Why mess up a good thing?
Burn1
Using the Black Gold product in place of Pro Mix or Sunshine Mix was what I was trying to say when I said that this is a pretty good mix - that it hasn't been screwed up like FFOF, Roots Organic, et al. Using it as a base would be the 2nd best option if purchasing Pro Mix or Sunshine Mix products isn't an option.

And like the issues with FFOF, where you live in relationship to the packing sheds will have a great deal to do with the success of using these 'nutrient rich' products </ snerk>

Blank soils like Pro Mix and Sunshine Mix are the best option and then add your own soil amendments.

CC
 

caljim

I'm on the edge. Of what I'm not sure.
Veteran
Heads up for you Mid-Westerners having a hard time finding Pulverized dolimite lime, seems like Home depot, lowes and all of the garden centers are just carrying the pelletized lime or hydrolized lime...not the PDL.

The big box store "Menards" has got 50lb bags for $3.25:woohoo:, bags of nice composted material (to add some humics) for a buck, and kiddie pools to do your mixing in for $6.

Drove all around this morning trying to source the right lime and thought I might be able to save someone the run around.
 

Mountain420man

New member
Burnone, Thanks so much this is very helpful and something I've been looking for, already seeing the ladies perking up now that I have gotten things balanced. Peace & One Love
 

louie

Member
I have a question for Burnone or any other organic gurus. I have been using a mix that was based on Promix and now can't find any for some reason near me, so I decided to go with pure Spaghnum peat moss. I have decided to go with LC's Soilless mix #1 (spaghnum peat moss, perlite, wormcastings, dolomite lime) and am going to add recipe #1 to it (bone meal, blood meal, kelp, greensand). Now I am a little confused about some of the addition conversions when adding everything together, mainly because of the compressed factor. I am using 2.2 cf (compressed) bags of spaghnum peat moss, I think this is equal to about 4.5 cf loss. Has anyone else figured out what ratio I would add the rest of the ingredients into it? ( I want to double check my math) I have also never used Liquid Karma, and was wondering how much I would need for this mix per 2.2 cf of compressed peat moss and the rest of the ingredients added to it? (really confused about this)....Long first post....Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the help Burnone and everyone.
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
Using the Black Gold product in place of Pro Mix or Sunshine Mix was what I was trying to say when I said that this is a pretty good mix - that it hasn't been screwed up like FFOF, Roots Organic, et al.

And like the issues with FFOF, where you live in relationship to the packing sheds will have a great deal to do with the success of using these 'nutrient rich' products </ snerk>
CC

Hi-ya snerky! long time man... lol jus razzin.... I wasn't sure if you knew, but I live in the mid-west, and I've used FFOF for many years with no problems at all??? The only thing I add extra is perlite, that's it. Do ya reckon I've jus been lucky all this time? I'm not smart enugh to know on my own, cuz my Paw aint never learnt me no book learnin bufor. :eek: LOL! I'm jus razzin ya again, it's good ta see ya man!

Sup Brother Burn1! jus passin through. :Bolt: Take care... BC
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have a question for Burnone or any other organic gurus. I have been using a mix that was based on Promix and now can't find any for some reason near me, so I decided to go with pure Spaghnum peat moss. I have decided to go with LC's Soilless mix #1 (spaghnum peat moss, perlite, wormcastings, dolomite lime) and am going to add recipe #1 to it (bone meal, blood meal, kelp, greensand). Now I am a little confused about some of the addition conversions when adding everything together, mainly because of the compressed factor. I am using 2.2 cf (compressed) bags of spaghnum peat moss, I think this is equal to about 4.5 cf loss. Has anyone else figured out what ratio I would add the rest of the ingredients into it? ( I want to double check my math) I have also never used Liquid Karma, and was wondering how much I would need for this mix per 2.2 cf of compressed peat moss and the rest of the ingredients added to it? (really confused about this)....Long first post....Thanks in advance, I really appreciate the help Burnone and everyone.

Welcome to IC.
Fluff up your bag first then use it as a "part".
Burn1
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Hi-ya snerky! long time man... lol jus razzin.... I wasn't sure if you knew, but I live in the mid-west, and I've used FFOF for many years with no problems at all??? The only thing I add extra is perlite, that's it. Do ya reckon I've jus been lucky all this time? I'm not smart enugh to know on my own, cuz my Paw aint never learnt me no book learnin bufor. :eek: LOL! I'm jus razzin ya again, it's good ta see ya man!

Sup Brother Burn1! jus passin through. :Bolt: Take care... BC
B.C.

Greetings! Long time no see and all that.

Lucky? Probably. It's about how the product is shipped at origin to points east and to the southeast. Any soil product packed in plastic and shipped in a dry van (vs. a temperature controlled trailer) is going to build up some incredible amounts of heat in transit.

Then you have the 'real world' paradigm that empty trucks in California can find all kinds of high-paying freight to the Midwest, East Coast and Southeast. In fact, in the summer when the produce is rolling out of Salinas, California and the packing plants (tomatoes, tomato sauce, peaches, etc.) are pumping out consumer & food service packs of products, there's just too much good freight available. The non-essential products are handed over to smaller trucking companies or private owner-operators.

Then how the soil bags are handled at destination, i.e. are they kept in a cool warehouse or outdoors?

I suspect that the claims about a soil being too hot has more to do with anaerobic conditions rising out of improper handling vs. a soil being too rich in nutrients.

Just a thought as usual.

CC
 
Glad to have such a place to go with my questions/troubles...Not sure what I'd do otherwise...Learning curve would be much greater at least...Much appreciated, thanks B1. I'll dedicate a few tokes on my first grow to y'all. :joint:

I had used about half of the lime that was recommended initially for the seedlings in 16oz cups...Now they've been transplanted into 8" pots with the accurate amount but I'm seeing a PH issue. Almost all of the plants have some twisting leaves, a couple more than the rest, and now I've seen a small reddish-brown spot or three on them...I haven't fed them anything but water and I'm wondering if the problem will correct itself once the new roots become entrenched in lime-fixed medium(outside of the small 16oz, under-limed portion)...

What would you do in my shoes? Do I need to rush out and get that PH meter? :puppydoge
 
Last edited:
B.C.

Greetings! Long time no see and all that.

Lucky? Probably. It's about how the product is shipped at origin to points east and to the southeast. Any soil product packed in plastic and shipped in a dry van (vs. a temperature controlled trailer) is going to build up some incredible amounts of heat in transit.

Then you have the 'real world' paradigm that empty trucks in California can find all kinds of high-paying freight to the Midwest, East Coast and Southeast. In fact, in the summer when the produce is rolling out of Salinas, California and the packing plants (tomatoes, tomato sauce, peaches, etc.) are pumping out consumer & food service packs of products, there's just too much good freight available. The non-essential products are handed over to smaller trucking companies or private owner-operators.

Then how the soil bags are handled at destination, i.e. are they kept in a cool warehouse or outdoors?

I suspect that the claims about a soil being too hot has more to do with anaerobic conditions rising out of improper handling vs. a soil being too rich in nutrients.

Just a thought as usual.

CC

hmm. makes a lot of sense a lot of people talking about how hot the soil is, when ive never burnt a damn thing in ocean forest. anerobic conditions.... well im just happy that i'm less than 2 hours from where its produced and i get fresh dropped off daily bags of ocean forest for $10. i agree tho its best to start from scratch with a promix base but all i can get here is sunshine mix and im having trouble dropping the $35 on 3.8 cubic feet of it when i can get 1.5 of ocean forest for $10. grow on:joint:
 
Glad to have such a place to go with my questions/troubles...Not sure what I'd do otherwise...Learning curve would be much greater at least...Much appreciated, thanks B1. I'll dedicate a few tokes on my first grow to y'all. :joint:

I had used about half of the lime that was recommended initially for the seedlings in 16oz cups...Now they've been transplanted into 8" pots with the accurate amount but I'm seeing a PH issue. Almost all of the plants have some twisting leaves, a couple more than the rest, and now I've seen a small reddish-brown spot or three on them...I haven't fed them anything but water and I'm wondering if the problem will correct itself once the new roots become entrenched in lime-fixed medium(outside of the small 16oz, under-limed portion)...

What would you do in my shoes? Do I need to rush out and get that PH meter? :puppydoge


:confused::frown: I just checked out my biggest lady and she's now drooping...I watered her nicely thinking that would do the trick but it didn't....So I took her out of her home and repotted into a 3gal....She had a decent amount of roots but I didn't think it was root bound...But what do I know, this is my first go-round...Hopefully by the time the lights go back on she'll be perking up and do well with the new room to stretch her legs....

I also hope this has nothing to do with the fact that I sprayed them down with diluted dyna-grow neem oil(1tsp neem, 1tsp dish-soap to a quart of water) and added it to their drink, two days ago...Figured the effects, if any, would have shown more quickly than this.

:1help:
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,

How you doing B1.

Had a simple question...I have horses so of course I hhave horse shit.

So after awhile of piling up the horse shit it has broken down.

My question is if I use the castings from the bottom of the pile (nearest to the earth and oldest) would this increase my chances of bring in pests to the growroom over store bought casting?

I would hate to spend money on something I already have.

We use in the garden outside and every plant loves the stuff.

minds_I
 

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