The brown spots are calcium deficiency and the light color green between the veins in the leaf is a magnesium deficiency, two separate things. When you correct the issue, dont look for the current damaged leaves to heal, but rather the new growth looks normal. Calcium can be hindered by your humidity being too low and the stomata are closed, you need them open so the plant can transpire and move calcium in it. Make sure your environment is in check, then look to solve the nutrient issue. Also, this late in flower the best you can do is keep the bud from getting worse, dont throw a ton of shit at it thinking your going to reverse anything. Get your environment in check and I would keep a few bottled nutes or salts around to keep things like this from happeneing again. Also, the next size pot might help too if all you want to do is water.
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Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
ReprobateMind
Active member
Thanks. If my environment is in check can I fix the issue by adding Roots Organic CalMag to the water? I'm using a HLG 350r Diablo light.
First, what’s your humidity? Not sure why you mentioned what kind of light you’re using, I use a Chinese knockoff. You dont have a light issue, you have a root zone issue. What size pots are you using and how long has the plant been in that pot? Calmag is probably just going to give you harsh buds at this point. How many weeks were you planning on taking them?
SirSkunk
Member
My first guess is to drop that ph to around 6.3 and see if that helps. Have you been getting cold temps? Is your fan blasting one part of the plant?
ReprobateMind
Active member
rH = 70%
I mentioned using a LED light because I read that LEDs might make plants use more calcium and magnesium.
Pot size = 3 gallon
How long have plants been in the pots? 5 weeks.
How long do I plan on taking them? 9 to 10 weeks.
No cold temps.
I had an oscillating fan at the bottom of the tent blowing on the walls and not directly on the plants. I turned it off because I have a fan oscillating directly under the LED.
StickyBandit
Well-known member
Did you check the soil moisture? Can cause all sorts of problems if the lower part is saturated and that's where the healthy roots were. I'm only mentioning it because it happened to me so I bought a cheap soil moisture meter 
Happy Thanksgiving! Your humidity is good> Some of the professional growers and agronomist say keep it at 65% so your stomata dont close. LED's make your plants need a little more of everything, but you still have to keep your ratios in check. I havent looked at the recipe for the soil and nutrient mix, but it sounds like your soil is still a little too young, meaning the microbes havent had a chance to digest all the amendments and the plant has requirements that the soil cant keep up with. Here's something to consider, I've been around the scene about 15 years now, when the super soil craze first started , it used to be mix your soil 8 weeks before you were ready to use it. They used to use big pots and would say fill the bottom half of the pot with the super soil and the top half with something like Happy Frog or Light Warrior, depending on how old the plant was, and let the plant grow into the super soil. This did not include the 8 weeks you waited while the soil composted. When you mixed your soil, did you keep it covered? Did you notice it got warm? They used to teach treat your super soil like compost and turn it every time it got hot and then it was ready to use when it stopped heating up.
Your plants are doing the same thing the bottle guys plants do (like we've all been through) when we stopped feeding too soon in flower because we were worried about green tasting bud. But the key is, the plant needs to be fed all the way through, only adjusting amounts of nutrients as they age. It sounds counterintuitive but the buds need nitrogen to to keep forming, they just need less than when in veg.
Hope that helps.
are you growing under LEDs? they look like my plants do when they are getting too much light.
ReprobateMind
Active member
Yes I am. I turned down the intensity. Is there something I could add to each watering like CalMag or epsom salt to help them catch up to higher intensity light?
ReprobateMind
Active member
So I found that I have a fungus gnat infestation. I mixed this soil and cooked it outside. I think that's how they got in and the over-watering is what caused the infestation. If I order nematodes I think they will freeze in transit because it's below freezing here. I will try Mosquito Bits, Diatomaceous Earth, sticky traps, turning the light intensity way down, and letting the soil completely dry out before I water it each time unless someone has some other suggestions.
i chased this issue for far too long. in the end what helped me was to start them at 350ish ppfd and increase the intensity 100 ppfd every week.
StickyBandit
Well-known member
I tried all that stuff to no avail because new gnats just come in from outside. I really need an intake screen.
What fixed it for me straight away is the little aerosol can with the battery and timer, the same type people have in their kitchen. These will get gnat infestation under control instantly and then preventative measures can be rolled out. There are some natural and some not natural but people are happy to use one in the kitchen and I like big buds
StickyBandit
Well-known member
I have Vectobac which I think is basically the same thing and it doesn't have the same results, but if you prefer to keep everything natural that might be a good option
Cool! I dont have the gnat problem. And I'm not natural only, lol. That hippy shit is good for maintenance, but sometimes you need something that actually works in one or two applications at the most. lol I aint got time for guessing, rain dances and voodoo heeby geebiesI have Vectobac which I think is basically the same thing and it doesn't have the same results, but if you prefer to keep everything natural that might be a good option
ReprobateMind
Active member
Thanks. I used Down To Earth kelp meal.
ReprobateMind
Active member
Dolomite Lime @ 1/2 tablespoon per gallon
Gypsum @ 1/2 tablespoon per gallon
Oyster Shell Powder @ 1 tablespoon per gallon
Azomite @ 1 to 2 tablespoon per gallon
Does this look like a decent substitution to the soil mix in the OP? I think it covers cal, mag, silica, and sulfur?
Gypsum @ 1/2 tablespoon per gallon
Oyster Shell Powder @ 1 tablespoon per gallon
Azomite @ 1 to 2 tablespoon per gallon
Does this look like a decent substitution to the soil mix in the OP? I think it covers cal, mag, silica, and sulfur?
Burn1
Active member
In my opinion, the most important thing in your organic soil is the microherd. Without that, you can put whatever you want in the mix but it will never make it to your plant. The simple mixes I posted at the front of this sticky have always worked great. The only problem ever was spider mites.
Burn1
Burn1
