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Organic Fanatics - Australia

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Dont dust it man. Your friend will kill the spiders (they are your best friend) and if they big enough to see dangling they aint spider mites. Mites leave tell tale yellow spotting all over infested leaves and are tiny.

The dust will kill all the benificial insects which will leave your plant ultimately more vulnerable. Leave dusts/ insecticides for big infestations that wont go away. It normal for a little insect or slug damage outdoors.
 

High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
This is what you don''t want to see,

SPIDER MITES

picture.php



Nasty little critters.
 
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SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Heres an example of collecting local weeds as fertiliser.

A nice wee patch of flowering thistle



Becomes this 20litre bucket full of thistle flower heads and stalk. I just added fresh water and a capful of EM1. No need for mollasses as bonasi previously pointed out. The flowers contain plenty sugars for fermentation to take place.



The whole process took me maybe 20 mins. Then i will just strain it out once it all looks nice and broken down. Not sure how long this will take but maybe a week or 2. Because the thistle is in flower it should have flowering nutes, and other goodies galore. Hoping for a silica hit if the more spiky and tough stuff breaks down a bit. This would also work perfectly well with just fresh water but using the EM1 will add an extra dimension for sure.

The flowering thistle patch smells awesome btw. :D
 
G

Guest50138

NiceAussie now you got them planted outside a good spray with the hose will do wonders for the bug control ..keep an eye out for Caterpillars though, Dipel sorts them out .Good luck :)
 
W

wilbur

neem isnt systemic ....

this is from post number 8 of the thread I referenced to Nice Aussie (number 338 this thread)

NEEM OIL
The following information was prepared by Al
Fassezke, Master Gardener in Bay City, for San
Toshi, the Tri-City bonsai club. This is a condensed
version of his text.
Neem oil is extracted from the neem tree,
Azadirachta indica. The active ingredient,
azadirachtin, is a naturally occurring insecticide. It
should be noted that naturally occurring (or
organic) does not necessarily mean safe, several
natural compounds are quite toxic. Neem extracts,
however, are used as topical compounds for minor
wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage
containers, and in many other applications.
As an insecticide it works both as a topical (applied
to the plant surface) and as a systemic (watered in
and carried up into the plant cells). It deters egg
laying, it is a growth inhibitor, a mating disruptor,
and a chemosterilizer. Among other effects, it
interferes with the formation of insect skin,
thereby stopping pupation in larvae.
The most common use of neem oil is in a water
suspension as a foliar spray or soil drench, diluted
to a 0.05% solution. (Recommended use for bonsai
is 1 tsp pr quart of warm water). A drop of dish
soap (not detergent) helps keep the oil emulsified.
Neem oil breaks down quickly in water and/or
sunlight. Don’t mix more than you will use in a
day.
Insects ingesting neem oil take about 3-14 days to
die, so there is no immediate result after
treatment. The great benefit is the prevention of
future generations of insects. It is said to be fairly
specific in attacking insects with piercing or
rasping mouthparts. Unless beneficial insects like
spiders, lady beetles, certain wasps, etc. come in
direct contact with spray, it does little to diminish
their numbers.
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
There has been some debate amongst the organic heads around icmag about the possibility of neem being systemic. No where have i seen definate proof of either argument but the general consensus was neem is not systemic. Something about the roots inability to uptake an oil based substance. However there are many compounds in the neem so i wouldnt be surprised if some were taken up once broken down a bit...

It certainly makes a good root soak either way. Keeps the rootzone free of fungus gnats and any stray mites etc and its antifungal properties keep the rootzone healthy. Also adds nitrogen.

I now use it only as a last resort for spider mites and other pests. It works no doubt but i prefer the use of worm leachate and kelp as preventatives. Lavender is my weapon of choice for mites once i see em growing in numbers.

I will use it for sure if moving plants from outdoors to under lights but. Just to be safe for both pests and fungal disease. It certainly perks the plants up.
 

gr0wm3

Member
neem is simply a deterrent, when applied to leaves it coats them in neem oil, which tastes like shit (not always wise using neem oil on food crops a month before harvest *vomit*)..... neem deters bugs from eating the flesh of the foliage or the roots ... simple.

peace n pot,
 
W

wilbur

just sprayed my fruiting custard apple with Neem. was getting anthracnose on the leaves. stopped the fungus dead. I am impressed!
my other option was 'mancozeb' ... a petroleum based fungicide.

yes, wierd smell, Growm3! probably tastes like it smells, yes?
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Good work wilbur.Yes it tastes absolutely horrible, much worse than the smell! I think i licked my finger or something like that and got a wee dab in my mouth... its very very strong and horrible tasting.

It has many uses and deterrent would certainly be one.

Neem seed meal is an excellent addition to a soil mix but is hard to source in Australia.
 
W

wilbur

well, I 've only suffered a mild inconvenience due to rain. can't foliar feed anything of course because the rain's been pretty well constant for a week or so now ... and I 've been relieved of having to carry water ...

and no heads yet so there's not lots of weight for the branches to carry ...

however a sativa bent down to the ground as if it's stem was made of rubber ... didn't break ... and I needed to put a light rope around a tree and a truckies hitch (yes, true!) on it to pull/winch it back up straight. then guy it in other directions in case the wind blew it over the other way.

Oh! this never ending work!
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Did you say rain? Bloody marvelous stuff bucketed and drizzled itself all day yesterday! No more hosepipe for a day or three i reckon :good:

Heres the results of my thistle ferment:



It is really thick and syrupy and smells very sweet. Must be loads of sugar in there. My garden will love it! :tiphat:
 
W

wilbur

OK, alchemist Silver!

so the logic behind yr thistle brew is that because the thistles were flowering the potash in the flowers can be accessed by brewing as above?

being a bit of a tech-head I 'm sus of such simple logic ... BUT while it's too early generally speaking for native flowering here ... soon a plant we call 'bluetop' will do its thing. it grows by the thousand and I will reap the flowers and give a brew a try.

cheers!
 
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L

luvaduck

Man, has anyone mentioned Batphone products? Maybe, but I just visited their site again, and now I'm all pumped.
EM-1 on the way, fish emulsion here i come! (EM-1 not from batphone btw)
By the way, this stuffs not cheap?!?!
Any ideas how to introduce silica cheaply? I like to use a foliar spray for lots of things, including pesticide.
Cheers.
 
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High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
Man, has anyone mentioned Batphone products? Maybe, but I just visited their site again, and now I'm all pumped.
EM-1 on the way, fish emulsion here i come! (EM-1 not from batphone btw)
By the way, this stuffs not cheap?!?!
Any ideas how to introduce silica cheaply? I like to use a foliar spray for lots of things, including pesticide.
Cheers.

Yeh...the batphone

picture.php
 

SilverSurfer_OG

Living Organic Soil...
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I know totally random name for a fert company!

Their Organic Link dry fert is awesome stuff. A complete fertiliser i would say.

What is costy lucaduck? The Em1? It does go a long way... the above method uses only a capful and the resulting ferment multiplys all the good stuff. So what we buy is a 'mother' culture.

Whats in there wilbur? Not sure but i reckon lots of sugar and beneficial microbes for sure. I was hoping for silica but the tougher stuff hasnt broken down much. When comfrey or nettle is used (for example) the whole plant breaks down to nothing. Anyways the thistle remains are on the compost and will be used for something :D

Heres some Satori buds grown 100% organically and chopped down yesterday

 
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