Organic Fanatic Collective

[Ninja420]

Brother Subs is fighting cancer right now so I will have to help you out.

Yes he uses P it is in the bone meal.

At different stages of growth requires different ingredients. I like you use alot of EWC. It is just the way I grow my plants. I like to add as much active bacteria to my teas as possible and EWC has a minute amount of nutes and will never burn your plants....even seedlings. Mollasses is best used in lesser amounts. 1 to 2 TSP per gallon. B! mix is to be used with unfortified soil mixtures. Subs fortifies and supplements with teas for the active bacteria. I also do the same. I do not feed the plant but instead feed the soil with bacteria that breaks down the nutrients in the soil to feed the plant.

I hope I have answered all this for you. If I have missed anything please feel free to ask again.

V-man

Thanks for the help V-man. I'm sincerely sorry to hear about Suby.

The reason I asked if Subs uses P in veg is because beside the bone meal it says flowering mix only. In both quotes Suby said he waters with a tea every watering and one had kelp and the other didn't. Just wondering.

Can i substitute alfalfa meal for blood meal and if so do i use the same ratio 1TBS/Gal?

Thanks again V-man really appreciate the help.

Ninja

 

[DrunkenMessiah]

No. In this case, over coco, its more like using potash as feed. (i.e stuff ppl feed to roses in winter , after blooming period is done), although this is much finer so the medium/plant can absorb the minerals easier/quicker in the otherwise inert medium.

Gradually the use of guano tea in coco allows the medium to take on a much more healthy character when using organic feed.

peace out.

thx for the clari fy cation..so it's a natural substitute for potash..I have no experience with coco ,well,none with any good results..
thx again prof doc

Most of the soils we use over here are slightly acidic,,thus wood ash should help balance relative pH in time

Wood ash is an excellent organic source of potassium and is readily reliable, however, if you are prepared to scrounge there is a holy grail of organic potash. Corncobs burn down to a fine powder which can be anywhere from 28-35% potassium (actually K2O). I apply it to my fruiting tomatoes as they use it in massive quantity to swell up a great big yeild. Dr. Lynette Morgan of the Tomato Magazine found that high-yielding tomato plants can take up 140 - 230 mg of potassium per day! I wanted to stick to organics and using enough wood ash to supply that much potassium would drive my PH through the roof. (you want a PH of 5.5 for a good, bitey tomato) Corncob ash gives you much more potassium for a given amount of ash, so using it in quantity won't buff the shit out of your PH. I've found that you can also add a cup or two of corncob ash to a small quantity of boiling water. Immidiately take off of heat. Pour off the mostly clear liquid and leave the grey sludge in the bottom of the pan. Use a fine mesh filter if you must. Add this 'tea' to your normal watering for a big organic potassium punch without wrecking your PH.

Good luck and happy gardening!
-DM

 

[Thundurkel]

So I just got into brewing tea's and right now I'm using Mother Mary's recipe but I can't get the powdered phosphate and was wondering if I'm ok through flowering using the following each watering since I grow in 20oz containers...

1 gallon non chlorinated water
1tsp Happy Frog All Purpose 5-5-5
1tsp Happy Frog Bat Guano 0-5-0
1tsp Moleasses 1-0-5
1cup Worm Castings

brewed for 24-36 hrs then mixed 50/50 with non chlorinated water, IMO I think I should be fine and I'm thinking I will get better results than what I was getting using Tiger Bloom and moleasses what do you guys and gals think??

 

[baet]

i have a question about critters sniffing blood and bone meal in soil? we dont have bears, or elks, or moose, so what id be dealing with is racoons, possums, coyote, and skunks...

i will be composting my soil mix, but i heard that decreases likelihood of critters smelling or messing with the soil. is that true? and what should i do or fence to keep animals out?
i was thinking just chicken wire buried about a foot down into the ground around the plant up taller than the plant and on top of the structure?
is there any good liquid deterrants for those critters?

 

[DrunkenMessiah]

i have a question about critters sniffing blood and bone meal in soil? we dont have bears, or elks, or moose, so what id be dealing with is racoons, possums, coyote, and skunks...

i will be composting my soil mix, but i heard that decreases likelihood of critters smelling or messing with the soil. is that true? and what should i do or fence to keep animals out?
i was thinking just chicken wire buried about a foot down into the ground around the plant up taller than the plant and on top of the structure?
is there any good liquid deterrants for those critters?

Freshly placed bone and blood meal will attract raccoons from miles around, the little fuckers are just like miniature bears (member of the same animal family in fact). The way to get around this is to mix the nutes into your desired plot several months in advance. Microbes in the soil will rapidly consume the stinky organic materials and if critters do decide to come along and dig around in it they will be doing no harm. You are absolutely correct in your assumption that composting your soil mix will prevent the forest creatures from being interested. This is only one of the countless benefits of composting organically-fortified soil before planting in it. It gives the native microbes time to build up into a big, healthy colony. Combined with some mychorrhizae fungus spores this will develop a ferocious secondary immune system for your plants; I consider this a must-have when growing outdoors. You are absolutely on the right path good sir. Good luck, and happy gardening!

-DM

 

[Elephant Man]

Just stopping by to say high to my fellow organic mechanix. Next to the ultimate sativa thread, this is my fave on the net.

Still banging away in same old soil, though nowadays I just premix dry ferts with one transplant....too lazy to tea anymore.

Anywhoo, figured I'd share some organic weeds with my favorite growers

peace and good karma

 

[Green Mama]

wow,
you guys are my hero's! I have a lot to learn here. I've been gardening organically for years. But I'm a novice at the sensi. I'm still in my first round of an indoor grow (600w) about a week into flower. I'm all about learning ya'lls ways and doing as much as i can sustainably. next year i wanna do an outdoor grow too.
much luv,
green mama

 

[humble1]

i have a question about critters sniffing blood and bone meal in soil? we dont have bears, or elks, or moose, so what id be dealing with is racoons, possums, coyote, and skunks...
is there any good liquid deterrants for those critters?

http://www.arbico-organics.com/1287601.html

[FONT=arial, helvetica]Repels All Animal Repellent [/FONT]


hope that helps

 

[idoja]

i have a question for all of you organic experts out there. a chef once told me that caffeine was poisonous to animals. he said that, that was why fido could die when he eats your snickers bar.
seeing as how esspresso grounds can be added to enrich the soil and give a little nitrogen, could this also be used as an organic pesticide?

 

[quadracer]

i have a question for all of you organic experts out there. a chef once told me that caffeine was poisonous to animals. he said that, that was why fido could die when he eats your snickers bar.
seeing as how esspresso grounds can be added to enrich the soil and give a little nitrogen, could this also be used as an organic pesticide?

yes, but I would use the espresso itself and not the grounds and foliar apply to the plants. That contains caffeine you can use, and wouldn't clog up your sprayer. The grounds do however add nitrogen to the soil and provide organic matter, but I'm not sure it would do anything to ward off insects on the soil or even on your plant.

My worms love coffee grounds as their bedding. They get really long and fat. Some of the best compost I have made was about 40% coffee grounds from the coffee place down the road. Use em if you got em.

Related article:

If you've ever wondered why you never get a fly in your coffee, a Harvard scientist has finally come up with the answer.

Caffeine and related compounds are natural insecticides that plants use toward off damaging pests, reports James A. Nathanson an assistant professor of neurology at the Medical School.

While people for centuries have used coffee, ten and other caffeinated plants is stimulants, the natural function of caffeine in plants has, until now remained a mystery, Nathanson said in a report published in Science magazine last week.

Moreover, the results may eventually lead to the development of caffeine--based insecticides which would be relatively harmless to animals and humans for spraying on food crops.

Scientists have known for years that plants, have naturally developed chemicals to protect themselves, Nathanson said, but only recently was it suspected that caffeine served this important function.

While many scientists labeled the results suprising, some downplayed the over all significance.

"I find it considerably interesting and even amusing," said Bussey Professor of Biology Carroll M. Williams. "Caffeine may be an insecticide, but it is not a very powerful agent."

The study also determined that caffeine combined with other insecticides increases their killing power. In one test, a small dose of caffine increased a known pesticide's potency by ten times.

The potency of the combination, the report stated, was far greater than that of the sum of the parts.

While caffeine may hold potential for use as an insecticide, a National Coffee Association official said that it is still too early to determine if the new data will have major financial implications.

"It's all good and well, but the really important thing is that the research didn't show caffeine poses a hazard to the public," he added.

Nonetheless, any use of caffeine as an insecticide is still several years off in the future. It might take as many as five years for the completetion of large scale testing to determine if caffeine--based insecticides are practical or useful.

The behavior and growth of numerous insects and their larvae were considerably disturbed when treated with caffiene and related compounds, Nathanson reported.

At concentrated doses, the substance killed insects within hours or a few days, the report said, and it distorted behavior, depressed food consumption and inhibited reproduction in tobacco hornworms, milkweed bugs, butterfly larvae, and mosquito larvae.

For example, mosquito larvae became so uncoordinated with exposure to caffeine that they could not swim to the water's surface and drowned.

Caffeine appears to produce the destructive effect by supressing certain enzymes in the insects' nervous system.

http://www.thecrimson.com/article.aspx?ref=221314

 

[idoja]

thank you quadracer

 

[lidspinner]

Just stopping by to say high to my fellow organic mechanix. Next to the ultimate sativa thread, this is my fave on the net.

Still banging away in same old soil, though nowadays I just premix dry ferts with one transplant....too lazy to tea anymore.

Anywhoo, figured I'd share some organic weeds with my favorite growers

peace and good karma

I did a search for that thread and came up with nothing....Could you please link me to that thread as I love the sat's

 

[Clackamas Coot]

lidspinner

Here's the link with the original post going back almost 3 years.

HTH

CC

 

[lidspinner]

lidspinner

Here's the link with the original post going back almost 3 years.

HTH

CC

Thanks Coot...I love reading about this stuff...its almost as addicting as growing!!!!

 

[judas cohen]

Clackamas Coot: Mil Gracias for the Sativa Thread Link!!! ^^^^ Wasn't aware of it and will enjoy reading and learning for many hours! I check out almost every link you post. I'm never disappointed.

 

[jaykush]

bump for the ultimate guide to organic soil for beginners, everything you will ever need to know and more is in here.

 

[vonforne]

yep one of the best threads on growing weed of all time.

V

 

[jaykush]

best thread on growing anything period! not only will this info grow you the dankest pot, it will grow you the tastiest veggies around guaranteed. because after you smoke your own organic pot, youll want your own organic munchies

 

[JackTheGrower]

yes, but I would use the espresso itself and not the grounds and foliar apply to the plants. That contains caffeine you can use, and wouldn't clog up your sprayer. The grounds do however add nitrogen to the soil and provide organic matter, but I'm not sure it would do anything to ward off insects on the soil or even on your plant.

My worms love coffee grounds as their bedding. They get really long and fat. Some of the best compost I have made was about 40% coffee grounds from the coffee place down the road. Use em if you got em.

Related article:



http://www.thecrimson.com/article.aspx?ref=221314

I mix my liquid feed with "Cowboy Coffee." It may be garden folklore but, I keep adding it in liquid and fresh ground as a top dressing year after year..

Any thoughts on potential harm?

My folklore is that it boosts that "Up" high effect.. No proof sadly since I have not done a control.


Jack

 

[McSnappler]

Hey guys, great thread, one you need to read and re-read to really get the benefit from. I've done a lot of reading in this forum in general, particularly the Organics for Beginners thread, and have recently started using the mixes in there with great results. I'm now at the point where I want to deviate from those beginners mixes, so I've come over to the darkside for a bit of advice, if possible. I'm sorry for being yet another "please look at my mix" post, but all I can say to that is I've tried to do a lot of homework and experimenting first!

Here's where I'm at. My main aims are to feed only water for the duration of grows. I would also like to reuse my soil. With this in mind, I've gathered the following amendments..

Hoof & Horn Meal - N 13, slow release N
High N Guano - N 8, P 1, K 1, fast release N
High P Guano - N <1, P 14, K 0
Bone Meal - N 3.5, P 17, K 0
Alfalfa Plus - Alfalfa, Comfrey & Seaweed Pellet - N 2.5, P <1, K 7
Kelp Meal
Rock Phosphate - N 0, P 27, K 0
Rockdust

The Mix
The mix will be based around standard LC#1 - 50% peat, 30% perlite, 20% wormcast, 2 tbsp/gal dolomite. The first group of ferts below, I'm pretty sure on the amounts already, based upon what I've been using so far, and the amounts recommended in the Beginners thread.

4 tbsp High N Guano
3 tbsp High P Guano
1 tbsp Bone
1 tbsp Kelp Meal
1 tbsp Rockdust

It's when I bring in the extra amendments I've not used yet, that I start to struggle on doses, and also whether they affect the amount of the above ferts that I should use.

1 tbsp Hoof & Horn - should I remove some high N guano to compensate, despite the H&H being slow release?
1 tbsp Rock Phosphate - as above but should some P sources be reduced?
1 tbsp Alfalfa, Comfrey & Kelp Pellet - Should I remove some Kelp to compensate? What about high N guano?

I'm sorry if this post is a bit haphazard, or if it's blatent newb lameness and I'm asking you guys to pander to me too much - but any help is hugely, massively, gigantically appreciated.