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Organic Fanatic Collective
- Thread starter Suby
- Start date
I find they're need for water a good indicator as when they are ready, the ultimate test being the trich color test with a jewlers loup of course.
It makes sense being that thei water needs would be less as the end of flowering is mostly the maturation phase for trichs.
Pull the plug IMHO, those girls are on life support, practice some loving uthanasia....
then burn their ashes hehehe.
I have tried various ways of flushing and last grow I had a RO water on hand from a friend, alot of it so I used it in the end thinking the purer water might flush them softly but faster and more efficiently.
Unlike most I dislike early picked pot, I am very fussy about the maturation time, I like it a little more on the ripe side.
Suby
It makes sense being that thei water needs would be less as the end of flowering is mostly the maturation phase for trichs.
Pull the plug IMHO, those girls are on life support, practice some loving uthanasia....
then burn their ashes hehehe.
I have tried various ways of flushing and last grow I had a RO water on hand from a friend, alot of it so I used it in the end thinking the purer water might flush them softly but faster and more efficiently.
Unlike most I dislike early picked pot, I am very fussy about the maturation time, I like it a little more on the ripe side.
Suby
NuggyBuds
Member
That's interesting Suby, I've not noticed that before, but then again I wasn't paying attention to water needs. I'll have to keep an eye for that.
I've allways been of the opinion that slight stress in the final 3-4 days will bring an increase in trich and flavinoid production.
What I do is start flush in week 6ish, with 2-3 regular waterings, then at about 1-2% amber trichs I stop watering, let it dry out for the final week then flush her HUGE 1-2 days before cutting (I like about a 8-10% amber). This along with low humidity and cool temps, seem to produce a shit load of trich production.
I've allways been of the opinion that slight stress in the final 3-4 days will bring an increase in trich and flavinoid production.
What I do is start flush in week 6ish, with 2-3 regular waterings, then at about 1-2% amber trichs I stop watering, let it dry out for the final week then flush her HUGE 1-2 days before cutting (I like about a 8-10% amber). This along with low humidity and cool temps, seem to produce a shit load of trich production.
I have never agreed with the notion that stress induces trichome production, I like to keep them comfortable up until the end.
My old mentor Legion had a saying,by a week or two before harvesting thrichs are either there or not.
I have noticed as you mentiones that I pull off good trcih production in colder and dryer temps during the end flowering can help trich development and even colder temps gets you nice purplish buds which I love.
I keep them well watered, no dry out period near the end because I try to get them loaded with water so I can dry them out as slow as possible and have a intense and potent cure.
My old mentor Legion had a saying,by a week or two before harvesting thrichs are either there or not.
I have noticed as you mentiones that I pull off good trcih production in colder and dryer temps during the end flowering can help trich development and even colder temps gets you nice purplish buds which I love.
I keep them well watered, no dry out period near the end because I try to get them loaded with water so I can dry them out as slow as possible and have a intense and potent cure.
NuggyBuds
Member
Hmmm. well then, that does make sence, maybe it's just the temps and dry air that is doing this for me... nice to know.
As for the slow cure, I agree 100% that's why I flush big at the end. let them soak it up.
P.S. Legion was a huge help to me years ago on OG, when I was a lurker there. I had giant amounts of respect for that dude, it he still around?
As for the slow cure, I agree 100% that's why I flush big at the end. let them soak it up.
P.S. Legion was a huge help to me years ago on OG, when I was a lurker there. I had giant amounts of respect for that dude, it he still around?
I am not sure if he is around, he was a VERY good grower and was involved in the law somehow, he might of been a lawyer.
I lost track of him arounf the whole OG fuckup, man I miss my OG gallery.
He also taught me to chop any undergrowth in favor of larger top buds, since then I heavily trim anything under the canopy, probably the best training advice I ever got and I had a few extraodinary friends and mentors on OG.
I think I miss LC most of all but Allonharja was also a good friend.
Casualties of war I guess.
MI is still with us though and thank the bud gods for that
S
I lost track of him arounf the whole OG fuckup, man I miss my OG gallery.
He also taught me to chop any undergrowth in favor of larger top buds, since then I heavily trim anything under the canopy, probably the best training advice I ever got and I had a few extraodinary friends and mentors on OG.
I think I miss LC most of all but Allonharja was also a good friend.
Casualties of war I guess.
MI is still with us though and thank the bud gods for that
S
NuggyBuds
Member
Suby,
I'm a loser I know, but since his name was brought up I thought I'd search him out... It seems that he is posting @ planet ganja
http://www.planetganja.com/highsociety/showthread.php?t=34074
good to know he's keepin on...
peace.
I'm a loser I know, but since his name was brought up I thought I'd search him out... It seems that he is posting @ planet ganja
http://www.planetganja.com/highsociety/showthread.php?t=34074
good to know he's keepin on...
peace.
exactly man i like taking everything late. late as possible for the full amber effect.
as for the plant i always feed it till about a week and a half left then drop to 1/4 strength for the last half week then flush every other day till its done then let the soil dry out completely then harvest. with this you will need a really good cure to get rid of the taste in some strains but i insist on a cure no matter what or at least 3-4 weeks, usually 4-8.
i dont think the plant stops uptaking nutrients/water late flower, i do notice it to slow down in growth overall though but thats a given.
and since were quoting ppl. i was told if you think its done, let it go a little bit longer.
Hello all,
Thanks for yoru opinions and suggestions.
I will likely let her dry out before the cut. Unfortunately, I was thinking that I had 2 weeks left to finish so Ihave not started the plain water flush yet.
I will see tonight how she is and I will keep you informed.
minds_I
Thanks for yoru opinions and suggestions.
I will likely let her dry out before the cut. Unfortunately, I was thinking that I had 2 weeks left to finish so Ihave not started the plain water flush yet.
I will see tonight how she is and I will keep you informed.
minds_I
I had a random though on early flushing with organics, call it the creative yet psychotic aspects of our fav. herb.
If the micros feed our plants and soil, and the problem with organics is they are soft but flushing is ..well..weird seeing the micros wil repopulate and go strong .
I was thinking youd be better off trying to wipeout the micros so as to stop fert availbility.
Feeding say plain water with say peroxyde and flush enough to cut the micros back but still leave the soil recyclable and chemical free-ish.
Just a though, try it at your own risk lol.
S
If the micros feed our plants and soil, and the problem with organics is they are soft but flushing is ..well..weird seeing the micros wil repopulate and go strong .
I was thinking youd be better off trying to wipeout the micros so as to stop fert availbility.
Feeding say plain water with say peroxyde and flush enough to cut the micros back but still leave the soil recyclable and chemical free-ish.
Just a though, try it at your own risk lol.
S
i dont know suby, that doesnt sound like the best idea to me. it might be worth some experimenting with possibly. i get what your saying but even if there was no micro population at all the plant will still take in nutrients. now if i did try it i would grow the plant as normal up until it has lets say 2 weeks left start your flushing but dont go heavy keep it light. then when theres one week left do that once. after that flush heavy throughout the week stop 2 days before u think the plants done then wait for the soil to dry out completely, then chop.
but hey thats what i would do if it was an experiment with another plant right by its side with the normal flush schedule see what happens( i probably wont though lol). and to be honest you cant beat a good long cure after a normal flush.
but hey thats what i would do if it was an experiment with another plant right by its side with the normal flush schedule see what happens( i probably wont though lol). and to be honest you cant beat a good long cure after a normal flush.
Suby said:You know that idea sounds alot less ...good...having sobered up and had dinner.
We'll right that one off and chock it up to a brain fart lmfao.
That one's gonna come back and bite me in the ass one day.
If this where OG that post would be troll fuel...
Fuck em..
ha ha it happens, just take another hit and forget the whole thing. nothing wrong with experimenting. growing cannabis wouldn't be as fun without them.
G
Guest
Have any of you ever added some of your brewed tea to a fresh batch of tea that you havent aerated yet? This would be exponential reproduction of the already cultured organisms in the new batch, I cant say if it would increase or decrease biodiversity though.
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R
Relik
Yes, using the previous tea to kick up the next one does work, but I also like to dump the tea "goo" (the bottom of the bucket - I don't use a sock, I just strain the tea before watering) on the compost pile to help it a bit.
Peace
Peace
Hello all,
I use a one gallon milk jug (its all I need) for my teas-when teh sludge on the bottom gets to thick- I replace it with a fresh one and recycle the old one.
The plants have no complaints.
Works well- although after a couple of weeks it gets funky- not anarobic- just funky.
minds_I
I use a one gallon milk jug (its all I need) for my teas-when teh sludge on the bottom gets to thick- I replace it with a fresh one and recycle the old one.
The plants have no complaints.
Works well- although after a couple of weeks it gets funky- not anarobic- just funky.
minds_I
Funky is as funky does, I make a fresh batch each time, it's a very diverse mini jungle in there and there alot of types of soil organisms feeding off each, off soil elements, some need more of one thing then another.
As the tea progresses it's elements are unbalanced with each other while others are outright totally spent, this sways the balance in the microkiddies.
Now I'm not a stickler for details and this observation is purely infered from things I've studied but IMHO as long as it hasn't gone anearobic you are fine.
What I find interesting is there are alot of instructions for outdoor teas that don't include using a pump, they say to seep elements in water away from the sun, for a long period, covered but not bubbled...
Maybe MJ is just particular to aerobic bacteria and regular outdoor crops are more resistant to high humidity and anaerobic fungus and other nasties.
Alot of comfrey and nettles tea instructions never mention using a bubbler, then again we use molasses and kelp and other shit so who knows.
I keep saying if we had spent as much on studying mother nature and the organic method, as opposed to say reproducing them with chemmys, we'd be much better of as growers.
It's always mistified me how humans always assume that they can beat mother nature, that someone we are above and the rules of the universe somehow don't apply to us, silly really.
over.
Suby
As the tea progresses it's elements are unbalanced with each other while others are outright totally spent, this sways the balance in the microkiddies.
Now I'm not a stickler for details and this observation is purely infered from things I've studied but IMHO as long as it hasn't gone anearobic you are fine.
What I find interesting is there are alot of instructions for outdoor teas that don't include using a pump, they say to seep elements in water away from the sun, for a long period, covered but not bubbled...
Maybe MJ is just particular to aerobic bacteria and regular outdoor crops are more resistant to high humidity and anaerobic fungus and other nasties.
Alot of comfrey and nettles tea instructions never mention using a bubbler, then again we use molasses and kelp and other shit so who knows.
I keep saying if we had spent as much on studying mother nature and the organic method, as opposed to say reproducing them with chemmys, we'd be much better of as growers.
It's always mistified me how humans always assume that they can beat mother nature, that someone we are above and the rules of the universe somehow don't apply to us, silly really.
over.Suby
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