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V

vonforne

The benefits of Wormcastings to the Organic grower

The benefits of Wormcastings to the Organic grower

I love wormcastings more than any other soil admendment. So much good stuff in there. I found this read a while back and thought I'd share it with everyone.





The Benefits of Worm Castings, Compost and “Tea”

A nice cup of good, hot tea has for years been enjoyed as a restorative to the mind and body. Centuries ago human kind learned that the flavor and beneficial essence of certain plants could be drawn from their leaves, bark and roots by steeping them in water, sometimes fortifying the brew with a bit of milk and honey. How well we understand that a nip of soothing mint tea will settle the stomach, a cup of fragrant chamomile tea will soothe frayed nerves, and a heavy mug of vitamin rich alfalfa tea can stimulate a weak appetite. By steeping these plant materials in water we can partake of what is best about them when eating the plant is not an option.

This concept of using water to draw beneficial extracts from solid materials for the purpose of making a liquid solution has applications beyond making we humans feel better, however. Our plants and even our soils can benefit greatly from a nice cup of tea when that tea is derived from a plant nutrition source like compost or worm castings.

Understanding the value of castings and compost

Good compost, worm castings or vermicompost added to the soil carry to the root zone a rich compliment of soluble plant nutrients and growth enhancing compounds, a diverse and populous consortium of microbial life and a substrate of organic matter harboring a storehouse of nutrients that are not lost to rain and irrigation. The plant is delivered an ongoing, reliable food source when bacteria and microscopic fungi feed on the organic matter, releasing some of the nutrients to the soil and storing others for their own energy and reproduction. When nematodes and protozoa in turn feed upon them the nutrients stored in the bacterial and fungal bodies are released to the soil in a plant available form. According to Dr. Elaine Ingham, when soil, compost or castings support protozoa numbers on the order of 20,000 per gram of solid matter, 400 pounds of nitrogen per acre are released through their predation of bacteria. When we feed organic matter to the soil, the soil life feeds nutrients to the plant.

Further, unlike soluble plant fertilizers, the nutrients stored in organic matter and the bodies of the microbial life are not lost through irrigation to contaminate ground water. Hair-thin fungal tentacles, called hyphae, wrap about soil and organic matter particles in their search for food, forming aggregates that are the basis for good soil structure. Thus, both the fungi and the organic matter are held in the soil. Bacteria exude sticky glues that enable them to cling to solid particles of mineral and organic matter, ensuring they too remain in the soil and, like the fungi, aid in the formation of aggregates.

Nutrient retention and cycling are not the only benefit to castings and compost use, however. By inoculating the soil with the rich, diverse, microbial life present in good these materials the plant root is protected from disease and attack by root feeding organisms. Because the diversity of organisms aids in ensuring everyone present has a predator no one organism in the root zone is easily able to reach populations sufficient to cause significant damage. Plant roots exude foods that encourage colonization by microbial life beneficial to the plant, reducing the number of possible infection points. Many microorganisms exude compounds inhibitory to pathogenic organisms, further reducing the chance for pathogen blooms sufficient to cause plant damage

When we add castings, vermicompost or compost and the rich consortium of microbial life they support to the soil, we aid in increasing the complexity and diversity of organisms in the root zone, thus aiding in disease and pest suppression.

It may not be in the root zone alone where worm castings demonstrate the ability to suppress pest attack, however. There is a growing body of research suggesting that castings derived from a feedstock of plant materials are rich in a compound called chitinase. Chitin, a component of the exoskeleton of many insects, is damaged by chitinase, leading some researchers to believe its presence in the castings may be inhibitory to some insects. Research being conducted in California is demonstrating suppression of white fly and ambrosia beetle in some tree species when castings containing chitinase are applied at the root zone.

From castings to tea

So, “why tea?” one may wonder. With compost and worm products demonstrating such tremendous benefit to soil and plant life why take the extra steps to generate a liquid from this already understood and easily applied solid material?

Leaf surfaces, like plant roots, harbor a rich microbial population that protects the leaf, and thus the plant, from infection and attack by pathogenic organisms. When the microbial consortium present on the leaf surface is reduced by pesticide use or environmental damage it exposes leaf surface, opening infection points. We can reinoculate the leaf with the diverse communities of microbial life found in compost and worm castings by applying a tea made from these materials. Further, teas can be applied as soil drenches and root washes after pesticide use, to reintroduce to the soil microbial communities that may have been damaged by the pesticide. The microbes can then continue to provide protection from pathogens to the plant as well as aiding in breakdown of any pesticide residues in the soil, thereby preventing ground water contamination.

Teas also carry the soluble nutrients and beneficial growth regulators contained in the solid matter used to make the tea. Many of these compounds can be absorbed through the leaf surface, feeding and enriching the plant.

Tea or leachate?

The microorganisms present in an aerobic compost or vermiprocessing system require significant amounts of moisture in order to break down the organic materials present. They use the water in both their life processes and as avenues for moving through the material. These organisms are swimmers. Thus, when we build a system for the remediation of organic wastes, whether or not worms are involved, we moisten the organic materials to ensure efficient breakdown. As the bacteria and fungi reduce the organic material the water held within the feedstock is released to the system. Further, as organic materials are broken down by microbial decay moisture is generated as a by-product of aerobic activity. What this means is that these systems often generate fluids generally referred to as leachates.

Leachate from an actively decomposing pile of organic debris will often carry many of the soluble nutrients that had been present in the solid matter, producing a beneficial growth response when used to water plants. It will also carry small numbers of the microorganisms present on that solid matter, as well as small bits of undecomposed organic material. This becomes a matter of some concern when materials like manure or post consumer food residuals make up even a portion of the feedstock in the system. There is the possibility that fecal coliforms and other pathogenic organisms can be present in the leachate, potentially contaminating plant and fruit or vegetable surfaces with which it comes into contact.

Further, the bits of undecomposed organic debris in the leachate will continue to be broken down in the liquid where oxygen levels are very low, through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. As they slowly decompose these bits of material anaerobes produce alcohol and phenols toxic to plant roots.

It is not always possible to tell when leachate will produce a beneficial growth response and when it will cause damage. Without a lab test it is not possible to tell when leachate will harbor potentially pathogenic organisms. As such, it is generally recommended that leachate from compost or worm bins not be used on plants, but rather used to moisten the system if it dries out or to moisten new feed stocks before they are included in the system.

Steeping the finished, stable end product of a composting or vermicomposting system in agitated, aerated water, then adding a nutrient mix for microbial growth makes a true tea. The water is agitated to extract as many of the organisms clinging to the solid matter as possible and the nutrient mix provides those microbes dislodged into the liquid with a food source on which to grow and reproduce. Aerating the water ensures that it is aerobic organisms being supported in the liquid. This blend of food and oxygen in the tea enables the microorganisms to grow to numbers rivaling those found in the solid matter from which the tea is derived. Teas must then be used within a few hours of being generated in order to ensure aerobicity and high microbial populations. Once the oxygen and food are consumed, anaerobic organisms will begin to populate the system, producing alcohols and phenols toxic to plants.

Good tea begins with good, quality compost, worm castings or vermicompost, or a blend of these materials. Provided the solid material is stable and supports sufficient beneficial microbial life there is nothing in these liquids to cause plant damage.

Using the tea

Compost and castings teas are a relatively new product in today's agriculture and gardening industries. Researchers are still identifying uses, though there is considerable research demonstrating that teas can suppress fungal disease in a variety of plant species and aid in disease prevention on plants where disease pressure is great.

Application rates for tea will vary considerably with the type of plant being treated, climate, and whether or not the plant is already battling a pest or infection. Dr. Elaine Ingham suggests that in agricultural fields the application rate begin at 5 gallons of undiluted tea per acre per week and adjusted as needed based on performance. For home owner use, teas can be applied to flowers, perennials, turf, roses, shrubs, trees and vegetables from a hand sprayer at a dilution ratio of one part fresh, undiluted tea to five parts water, applied once per week. The tea can be applied more or less frequently or at a lower dilution ratio, as needed based on performance.



What we do not know about teas still far outweighs what we do know, though research demonstrates an exciting future for tea use. The possibility of finding a means of controlling certain plant diseases with a truly effective yet benign material that simply capitalizes on nature's own means of control is a basic precept of sustainability. And while we may not know everything there is to know about tea, we know that using it harms nothing.

All rights reserved, Kelly Slocum, 2001
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
agreed V i am known to go a bit overboard with the castings, but hey the stuff works!
 
V

vonforne

If I have plants that are getting root bound, i will top off with about 1-2 inches of castings and water them in. I find they will drift down into the container. you have to watch out though, they are acidic. And it does tend to compact if you don't add a little perlite. But hey, that stuff works great. I always till the top of my soil before I water. i like all that organic matter broken up. You get all the benefits of the top dressing that way. It is time consuming but very worth the while.
 
V

vonforne

I have been lookng and reading this article many times and with where I live and whats available, I think I will start making my own ferts. I have lots of oriental stores and have fresh fish each day to choose from. Hope everyone finds this as interesting and useful as I have.



How do you make homemade Fish/Seaweed Emulsion?

WHY FISH AND SEAWEED PRODUCTS?

As you may know fish emulsion, fish meal, seaweed/kelp meal, and liquid seaweed/kelp are some of the most powerful natural fertilizers and soil amendments in the world.

NOTE: For those organic gardeners who prefer vegetarian soil amendments, you can skip the fishy ingredients, it's not necessary. There is plenty of NPK in alfalfa meal and other grains that you can use.

Most commercial fish emulsions are rated NPK = 5-1-1.
Most commercial liquid seaweed sprays are rated NPK = 0-0-1.

Even though these NPK ratings to a novice may seem low, there are lots of important trace elements, growth hormones, disease control, and organic matter in these products.

Fish Emulsion is mainly used for its quick high organic nitrogen and available soluble P and K benefits as a foliar feed. Fish Meal is mainly a great soil conditioner and great bacterial food to help feed the soil microherd. Even though there may be 4-5% organic N, 1% soluble P, and 1% soluble K in fish emulsion, there may be up to 6-8% total N, and 2-3% total insoluble P or K in it, that gets broken down later by the soil microherd. Most commercial fish products are made from the trash products of the menhaden fish. This fish is a relative of the herring, sardine, and anchovy fishes. Most commercial fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid in order to preserve the fertilizer on the shelf, but also it supplies needed sulfur to the plant and soil. Most economical fish products do not contain any fish oils in it, which supply extra beneficial soil fungi. Most also do not contain much fish bones which supply extra calcium.

Seaweed/Kelp has a low NPK = 0-0-1. However, just like the fish products and all other natural fertilizers, there are more insoluble NPK nutrients and other trace elements in the product than meets the eyes. There may be up to 1-3% total N, 1-2% total insoluble P, 3-5% total insoluble K in seaweed products. The real benefit of seaweed is not in its NPK amounts. Seaweed/kelp can contain 60 trace elements, many growth hormones, and disease control properties in it! Basically every nutrient that any surface plant can ever need! If seaweed products are mixed with high N products like fish, you have an excellent complete natural fertilizer and soil amendment that will supply every NPK and trace element need of the soil and plant. Seaweed and other algae plants are some of the most powerful plants on earth, or should I say in the ocean. Seaweed is also an excellent food source for beneficial fungi in the soil.

WHY MAKE IT HOMEMADE INSTEAD OF BUYING IT COMMERCIALLY?

A. It's cheaper to make most natural fertilizers and soil amendments in large quantities.

B. There are some nutrients that you get from homemade versions that are not in most commercial brands. For example, commercial fish emulsion since it is processed from trash fish, will have less fish oil, fish bones, and proteins than fresh fish parts or canned fish in a homemade brew.

C. Aerobic bacteria and fungi are essential to hot composting, disease control, and soil health. In commercial fish emulusions there no little to no aerobic bacteria in the containers. If there were any growing and living in the containers, the bottles would explode on the shelves! Homemade brews always will contain more beneficial microherd than most commercial brands.

HOW DO I MAKE A HOMEMADE BATCH OF FISH/SEAWEED EMULSION:

You can use the following suggestions to the other suggestions in the Organic Gardening forum FAQ's on Compost Tea recipes when you brew these fish/seaweed foliar sprays or soil drenches.

You can use fresh fish parts or any cheap canned fish. The juices, sauces, or oils in the can can be used to breed beneficial microbes and supply extra proteins in the tea, so use it.

(NOTE: If you use canned fish products, you may want to let it decompose mixed with some finished compost, good garden soil, etc. in a separate closeable container for a few days before using. Since most canned meat products contain preservatives, this will guarantee that the good microbes in the tea will not be killed off or harmed in brew making.)

You can use any fresh or dried seaweed. Fresh seaweed has more N in it, but that really isn't important for seaweed teas. You can buy fresh or dried seaweed at most oriental grocery stores. Seaweed decomposes better if chopped up or liquified first in water before brewing.

If you are using fresh fish, you need to compost it separately in a 5 gallon closeable bucket. Fill bucket 1/2 full with extra browns like sawdust, leaves, or straw. You can add molasses to the fishy mixture in order to build up microbes in order to speed up decomposition. The sugars will also help control odors too. Open the bucket and stir the fishy paste daily or every other day in order to get air in the mix for better decomposition and better aerobic microbial growth in the emulsion. Let this paste rot for at least 1-2 weeks. The browns help control offensive odors and absorb organic nitrogen from the fish so that it is not leached out or evaporated.

Since commercial fish emulsions contain sulfur in the form of sulfuric acid, if you like you could add 1-2 tblsp of Epsom salt to the mix for extra magnesium and sulfur. Or to mimic the acidity of sulfuric acid and add extra trace elements you could add 1-2 tblsp of apple cider vinegar to the mix. NOTE: Recent studies have shown that unsulfured molasses or dry molasses powder is best for faster microbial growth in tea brewing.

You can now safely take the decomposed fish paste from the 5 gallon bucket and add it to your regular hot composting piles or add it to your special compost tea recipes. The more vegetable or fruity organic matter that you add to fishy compost the better you remove the offensive smells and the more trace elements you add to your compost and teas. This of course is optional.

You can add molasses or brown sugar to your teas also. Sugars are high carbon substances that not only can cause speedy microbial growth, but also sugars are an excellent natural deodorizer.

At this point you may want to decide whether you want to make a simple tea or an aerobic aerated tea for your needs.

When you make fishy tea, you need to add the seaweed at brewing time. Let it brew for at least 1 week, stirring every few days. If you decide to brew it aerobically with an air pump, try up to 3 days, or until the brew has a "yeasty" smell, or has a foamy top layer on the tea.

You can apply this fish/seaweed emulsion at a dilution rate from 1:1 to 1:5 ratio (5 gallons of tea to 25 gallons of water).

If you like, you can add a few drops of mild liquid soap per gallon as a wetting agent to get better coverage as a foliar feed at application time. (NOTE: If you are concerrned that using soaps may harm the beneficial microbes in your teas, you may want to just use liquid molasses, dry molasses powder, fish oil, or yucca extract as a spreader-sticker.)

You can use this tea as a foliar feed or as a soil drench or both. Soil drenches are best for building up the soil microbial activities and supplying lots of beneficial soluble NPK to the plant's root system and the topsoil texture. Foliar feeds are best for quick fixes of trace elements and small portions of other soluble nutrients into the plant through its leaves. Foliar feeds are also good for plant disease control. Foliar feeds work best when used with soil drenches or with lots of organic mulches around plants. You can poke holes in the soil around crop roots with your spade fork, to get more oxygen in the soil to further increase organic matter decomposition and increase microbial activity in the soil.

Remember all your homemade fertilizers and soil amendments can be as diverse and unique as you are. So have fun and keep composting!

Happy Gardening!

Entered by CaptainCompostAL
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Good info on the K-mag v, I've been looking at that stuff for a while now, even went as far as talk to a couple of organic farmers that use it. Just to find out what they thought of it.
I love wormcastings more than any other soil admendment. So much good stuff in there.
me to !

As for the vermicastings......... well now we're cooking. Until my reds start to produce some serious castings I'll keep buying it. In fact, I use so much of it, last month I purchased 1 tonne (1000kg) of castings....... I swear by the stuff. 10 bags cost between $100 and $150 but 1 tonne set me back $80. It doesn't take a genius to do the math !

Vermicast compost is different from normal compost because it has been through the worms' intestines. It is soluble food and its nutrient is up to 800% more available to plants than other composts.

If you are top dressing your pots with castings, cover them with something like pea straw mulch, Lucerne or similar (to keep light from penetrating the castings) because UV light destroys the goodness in castings rendering them useless. It doesn’t take long for this to happen. It is recommended to bury the castings slightly, under anything, as long as they are not exposed to UV light. In summary, top dressed soils/pots exposed to the HID in the sky should be protected from UV light.

Happy gardening fellas
 
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Hell all.

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone..After reading all of that I think I can say that I have forgotten more than alot of people will ever know about how to grow good organic bud..im gonna go smoke one and let all this sink in..thanks again. :joint: :chin:
 
V

vonforne

Smurf said:
Good info on the K-mag v, I've been looking at that stuff for a while now, even went as far as talk to a couple of organic farmers that use it. Just to find out what they thought of it.



As for the vermicastings......... well now we're cooking. Until my reds start to produce some serious castings I'll keep buying it. In fact, I use so much of it, last month I purchased 1 tonne (1000kg) of castings....... I swear by the stuff. 10 bags cost between $100 and $150 but 1 tonne set me back $80. It doesn't take a genius to do the math !



Happy gardening fellas


Are you talking 2,200 lbs? You have to be shitting me....right? If it is one ton, now thats some shit mixing there!


Everyone I met in Aussie was extreme. And that was in mellow ole Perth.
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
hey I found a huge patch of fresh extremely healthy nettles today, just grabbed one branch ( almost 2 ft long ). so ill snap some pics and maybe make some fresh tea.

V, im not much of a fish fan i made emulsions once, damn did it stink for a few days, it got better but its not pleasant thats for sure. i know if its really done right it shouldn't smell at all, i never took the time to get into it though.
 
V

vonforne

Ya the smell sucks but the results...............speak for themselves.

Where i'm at I can't get nettles but I have tons of fish and seaweed to work with. I guess you adapt to your enviroment. That's why the plant grows on every part of the planet.
 
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jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
actually there pretty common all over the world, i wouldn't be surprised if you could get your hands on some.

from wikipedia
it is abundant in northern Europe and much of Asia, found widely in the countryside. It is less frequent in southern Europe and north Africa, where it is restricted by its need for moist soil. In North America it is widely distributed in Canada and the United States, where it is found in every province and state except for Hawaii and South Carolina, and also occurs locally south into northernmost Mexico. However, in North America, the stinging nettle is markedly less common than in northern Europe. The European subspecies has also been introduced into North America. Away from its native area, the species has also been introduced to South America.
 
V

vonforne

I will have to look more closely next time I'm out walking. Need to get me some pics.


Nug porn for my Organic friends............................






 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,

V, very tasty bud you have there. I see we share the same philosophy with regard to trimming- if the little leaves are covered in trichs-I don't manicure it so closely. I like the flavor the smaller bud leaves add to the blend.

Clearly a superior organic product.

minds_I
 
V

vonforne

minds_I said:
Hello all,

V, very tasty bud you have there. I see we share the same philosophy with regard to trimming- if the little leaves are covered in trichs-I don't manicure it so closely. I like the flavor the smaller bud leaves add to the blend.

Clearly a superior organic product.

minds_I

I hate to waste good trics.
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thats the only porn I'm into........ wouldn't have it any other way....... don't ya love it when your ladies have got that sparkle in their eyes! LOL

Hey V, be sure to let me know if you ever go on tour, then you can experience first hand some Aussie extremities. :laughing:
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hello all,

V, very tasty bud you have there. I see we share the same philosophy with regard to trimming- if the little leaves are covered in trichs-I don't manicure it so closely. I like the flavor the smaller bud leaves add to the blend.

Clearly a superior organic product.

minds_I

i confess im a trim freak, its got to be all calyx no leaf. and i dont waste those trichs that would be dumb, there for making ooey gooey hash :yummy:

some good nug porn btw, i best get my ass in gear with some organic nuggies.
 
V

vonforne

Smurf said:
Thats the only porn I'm into........ wouldn't have it any other way....... don't ya love it when your ladies have got that sparkle in their eyes! LOL

Hey V, be sure to let me know if you ever go on tour, then you can experience first hand some Aussie extremities. :laughing:


I would like to return to Perth one day. I really liked Western Aussie. Great people! it has been a very long time though......maybe soon.
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Has anyone here in OFC attempted to heat an organic brew/tea for the principal goal of reducing the time it takes to complete a 'tea'?
If not, I’d like to give it a go, (in a controlled experiment) to see if it’s feasible.
I’m thinking increased 02 volume together with increased temps. Any thoughts?
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Hello all

I am of the little trimming party myself, until I bough my set of bubblebags.
The only thing better than organic nugs is organic full melt water hash.
That shit knocks your dick in the dirt, which a soil grower is bound to love lol.


Smurf raising temps I've never tried but when I make my tea I use an airpump that can keep 4 x 5gallon hydrobuckets bubbling vigorously, it really aerates the shit out of my teas, I have to keep a lid on it or it makes a mess.

Jaykush I want a report on the nettle, I have some lined up for next year.
As far as making fish emulsion I will pass untill I have an orghanic farm, I never use it seeing as I hate the smell so much.

You guys have been working hard on making this a great thread, I am glad you boys are along for the ride.

I have been getting flack for saying Earth JUice is shit, I'm sure you've heard me say it at some point, seing as I value your opinions anyone else hate this shit or am I alone...

Peace
Suby
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Originally posted by Suby
I have been getting flack for saying Earth JUice is shit, I'm sure you've heard me say it at some point, seing as I value your opinions anyone else hate this shit or am I alone...

Yeah, you upset a couple of ppl, I thought it was quite funny...... sorry dude. But on a personal note, I have EJ that is so old they've changed the packaging since then. Only used it once or twice, didn't like the smell of it. You should smell it now! Shit, I think it was off when I bought it. The only reason I keep it is for a reminder never to buy it again!
 
R

Relik

No EarthJuice here, you guys should still consider yourselves lucky to have some readily available organic bottled nutes. :wink: All we have here is fish emulsion, liquid kelp (very recent) and a couple of days ago I saw some "liquid blood and bone" by Yates... is that organic?

Anyway, bottled ferts are absolutely not required in an organic grow, but sometimes it can help... I hear you guys talking about Liquid Karma, and from what I've read about it, it seems like it contains a lot of good shit, I'd be glad to at least give it a try. But as I said, bottled ferts are not required in organics, I love to mix my soil and brew my teas, the only problem I have now is my airpump! It just broke up when I was going to start another batch of tea!

Nice example of why bottled ferts can help :wink:

Smurf, heating the tea sounds like it could speed the brewing process, for obvious reasons. Last tea I made I mixed up the "ingredients" in the bottom of my bucket (I usually don't use a sock, strain the tea before using it, and dump the goo on my compost pile or use it to start another batch) with about a liter of water, then I added a bit less than a gallon of hot water. I didn't really notice a difference, but then again, the tea was hot for about 1 or 2 hours max, and then brewed as normal.

So no great results for me, but it isn't surprising as the bubbling helps dissipate heat, IMO. Plus, the gallon of water I added was not boiling, as I was afraid to kill the microbes, wasn't sure.

I guess it could work out better with a water heater such as those used in aquariums, but I do not have one.

Peace
 
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