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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

NIKT

Active member
Nice info and projects man!


Not so much drafts as preliminary sketches. Next, cheap LSC 17W 3000K lamps conversion. Tunnel cooling, aluminum profiles 80x80x2 mm. It is possible to add a power control to this, thanks to the fact that the power supply of these lamps is not built into the mcpcb separately. A smaller version is under construction. The efficiency of such a panel does not differ much from the Mars Hydro TS series lamps. Approximately 2.1 µmol / J is achievable, higher values ​​when the diodes are run at half current after they are connected in parallel with the power supply. Perhaps even 2.25 umol / J ?? it seems computationally achievable.

Lower operating temperature of diodes powered by lower current _ higher efficiency and durability that e27 lamps lack. Active tunnel cooling, a very slight increase in the power consumed by the panel with a significant reduction in the TJ temperature of the diodes

https://forum.haszysz.com/threads/co-teraz-kupić-lampy-na-rynku-2022-nowoŚci.128483/page-3

The panel is designed for 1.2x1.2 m. A bit too high power, variable distribution of sources to avoid a hot spot in the middle of the room.

nic-na-wierzchu.jpg


nic-na-wierzchu.jpg



Reduced power, initial design sketch, no control and no wiring so far.

wentylowani-panel-na-modzie-lsc.jpg
wentylowani-panel-na-modzie-lsc-2.jpg
wentylowani-panel-na-modzie-ls2c.jpg
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
... It is possible to add a power control to this, thanks to the fact that the power supply of these lamps is not built into the mcpcb separately.

... Reduced power, initial design sketch, no control and no wiring so far.


You may not be able to add power control.
Some of my bulbs are dimmable, and some of them aren't.



20211027_095159.jpg


20211027_095136.jpg
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
I was curious to see what would happen if I tried to dim my non-dimmable bulb.
I've never tried it before.


It wouldn't dim.
It went from fully bright to almost off. (although there was a dim glow until the power was turned right down.)
 

NIKT

Active member
You may not be able to add power control.

;) Switching power supplies. Parallel connection.

=>
.
Untitled-1.jpg


Continuously adjustable 25% _50% _75% _100% is possible. The only problem is the slightly variable diode parameters. Perhaps you would have to select mcpcb, pair them. Similar parameters together. If the power supply is not built into mcpcb there is no big problem with that. Switching power supplies _ several groups, on switches. DC power supplies can be linked together to achieve more power. You can't just overdo their numbers. With a small panel it is not a problem, with a large panel it becomes more complicated. The wiring will be tried on a smaller version, possibly with a 4-way adjustment.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
;) Switching power supplies. Parallel connection.

=>

I'm a little confused.

I thought that these boards are the LED drivers that came with the bulbs ?


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If they are, some are dimmable and some aren't.


Are they separately purchased power supplies/drivers ?

Are you only using the LED chips from the bulbs you purchased?


Ordinary SILs just use the outlet power (either 120VAC or 240VAC) to power the drivers that are built into the bulbs.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
This is what I'm running.


20211027_115143.jpg



The LED strips are just LED chips on a strip with no circuitry.
The chips are attached in a combination of both parallel and series connections and run at 19.5 volts.


The power supply is adjustable to provide the proper voltage and current.

If your boards that are glued to the back of the round LED panels are what came with the bulbs, then the black and white wires would hook up directly to your house current and outlet. (120VAC or 240 VAC in Europe)


If that is the case, the you don't need any extra power supplies.

All you need is a dimmer switch on your house current/outlet.

If your built-in "LED drivers" are dimmable, then you can dim all of your lights with one dimmer switch hooked up in parallel to all the lights.

No power supply should be necessary.
 

NIKT

Active member
They are detachable. The same as in the lamp osram such :

osram-13-w-04.jpg


They are detachable. The same as in the lamp osram such:

In lsc lamps they are additionally glued with silicone. The V Tac Evolution which are essentially the same as the 9.5W version has no silicone. I haven't disassembled the 15W version _ the LSCs are practically the same _ the power supply is slightly different.

It simply pulls out _ the connection is on crimped plates _ in the lamp osram it is a soldered ceramic plug.

Such a structure is an advantage from the point of view of modifying the sources. For example, the efficient Osram 19 W A ++ lamp has power supply elements built into the board. There is no possibility to connect the boards in any way _ with the use of power supplies. You can do it here. Two PCBs connected in parallel _ half current: This way it is very easy to dim the lamps, simple circuit with switching power supplies. I think that in practice 2 power settings 50% and 100% are enough.

Thanks to this, you can also run the LEDs on a lower current, which increases efficiency. Much better cooling and .... And you can probably get closer to the efficiency offered by quite expensive ready-made LED panels based on 3030 diodes powered by high currents. To exceed a bit what the TS mars hydro series realistically offers. Better light distribution _ similar efficiency using light sources that cost less than $ 4 a piece.
Probably around 2.25 µmol/J is achievable on a 17W mcpcb LSC with the original power supplies at half the current per board.

Unfortunately, e27 lamp manufacturers are placing power supply components on mcpcb more and more frequently. And finding donors of components for such modifications is quite difficult. This type is very cheap and readily available. The cheapest e27 lamp with such efficiency on the market in Poland at the moment. V Tac evolution are slightly better but much more expensive, although it is profitable to build similar DIY panels.
The only problem I can see here is the lack of practical testing of the simplest method of wiring that allows for step power regulation. If it is done with full success, I will definitely show you.

Ordinary SILs just use the outlet power (either 120VAC or 240VAC) to power the drivers that are built into the bulbs.

I know how it is built;) I don't even know why nobody does it =>

https://galeria.haszysz.com/images/2021/10/20/oskubana.jpg

plastic interferes with heat exchange _ simple plucking improves the working conditions of the LEDs. Some types have different inserts - sometimes very thin. But even if they are paper-like, it's easy to get rid of them with dremel.
You can even cut these cans and bend the wings. The inner part of the box will take part in the heat transfer. They will degrade much slower.
 

NIKT

Active member
There is one problem _ high power supply voltages at low currents. Some ideas therefore fall off - the selection of power supplies is rather difficult here.

This is what I'm running.
The LED strips are just LED chips on a strip with no circuitry.
The chips are attached in a combination of both parallel and series connections and run at 19.5 volts.

LSC 17W ...... 20S4P (80 LEDs) decrease = 163V. 17W / 163V which will give 103mA per disc 103/4 = 26mA per diode. Measurements from the forum #. Replacing the power supplies with anything else is almost impossible. You can only combine with what is. Unfortunately, a low-voltage power supply cannot be done.

It can only be mounted outside the specification. many pieces should be connected with each other because of ..... very high voltages.

it's not a very good idea, for example. So I have a lot of doubts about a potential simple method of tying it all together.

https://www.upowertek.com/parallel-use-constant-current-led-drivers-get-high-power/

parallel-768x359.png



I'm not an electrician. Completely beyond my interests even. I'm just trying to get something out of it. Too cheap and simple to modify just to leave it alone. The problem is potentially dangerously high voltages.

The 4 step settings seem out of specification to me. Perhaps 2 only? Hard to say. Cut out elements from .al profiles and join it together, no problem. It is simple in the version without regulation, with possible switching off of some of the sources. Regardless of whether the LEDs were full or half parameters. With more advanced power regulation, it is not so nice. Unfortunately, these are not ready-made belts that have rational currents and volts, cheap and efficient but .... With problems when you want to do something more than simply improving cooling.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
There is one problem _ high power supply voltages at low currents. Some ideas therefore fall off - the selection of power supplies is rather difficult here.


Don't do it Man.!!
You might kill yourself.

That's why I threw my cookie sheet light fixture in the garbage.



This is what I've got going now ...
The entire closet is running on 19.5 VDC.
The only way that I can even feel 19.5 VDC, is to touch the wires to my tongue..

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I've got 44 LED strips, each with 56 LED chips, illuminating a closet measuring 21" X 21" x 48".
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
All of my 44 LED strips are in parallel.

They each receive 19.5 Volts DC, driven by two voltage supplies, each with two separate outputs.

I have a lot of wires because they're in parallel, but I can lick any wires if I want.
It tastes kinda spicy. Lol
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
... because of ..... very high voltages.

it's not a very good idea, for example. So I have a lot of doubts about a potential simple method of tying it all together.



Just go low voltage parallel circuits instead.
The only issue is lots of wire at a thicker gauge.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Screenshot_20211027-203655_Samsung Internet.jpg





I remember calling those protruding wires coming through the board as Cattle Prods.


Almost everyone here on this thread (myself included) has been zapped by those wires.

A bunch of us covered them with silicone.


I remember one guy from England touched them to the top of his bald head while holding onto the grounded metal frame of his grow.


Luckily, he lived to tell the story.


I laughed and laughed. Lol
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
.., but I can lick any wires if I want.
It tastes kinda spicy. Lol

^^^ This is not 100% true.

I can't lick these three wires feeding my voltage supply...



20211027_210828.jpg


​​​​​​​

That would be way more than spicy.
(I might blow up my tounge. Lol)
 

NIKT

Active member
Don't do it Man.!!
You might kill yourself.

Don't be afraid, I won't kill myself. Everything can be insulated very well, the housing should be connected to the ground. Contacts insulated with silicone, eg. Or a stick-on cover. It is not a problem. I would not like to go with a voltage above 300V when pairing power supplies.

The only way that I can even feel 19.5 VDC, is to touch the wires to my tongue..

;) LSC boards are too cheap to give up due to high volts. Too high efficiency to leave them alone. For less than $ 4 I have 17 W with power supply _ efficiency about 2.1 umol/J ... There is no way I would leave it alone.

I've got 44 LED strips, each with 56 LED chips, illuminating a closet measuring 21" X 21" x 48".

I know I remember that. Side lighting in a small room intended for the cultivation of a single plant.
I am trying to figure out how to build a cheap functional panel from e27 lamps. With power regulation, at least 2 steps, maybe 4 steps. The starting materials are so cheap that it does not care about the potential burnout of the test smaller versions.



Construction of the panel with the use of bridgelux strips is very simple, but the costs are much higher when achieving similar efficiencies.
A decent power suplay is expensive, I would not choose a power supply like yours, rather regulated with an efficiency of at least 0.93 for full load.

Something for something, cheap and not perfect with lots of fun to build.

PCBuds said:
I remember calling those protruding wires coming through the board as Cattle Prods.
Almost everyone here on this thread (myself included) has been zapped by those wires.
A bunch of us covered them with silicone.

I thought about it exactly. Silicone or a plastic lid glued. I was also wondering about the cut of thin organic glass lids on. Something similar to what you use in your project. But smooth, not profiled. 5 mm away from the plate. Simple and not expensive.
 

NIKT

Active member
one more idea. For vertical cultivation.

Filament led lamps. At 1521 lm, this means about 2.32 umol/J at a spectral temperature of 2700K.

=>
https://forum.haszysz.com/threads/lamp-teardowns.128552/


Instead of U-shaped fluorescent lamps. Modified e27 led filament lamps.
For very small projects.

https://forum.haszysz.com/threads/vertical-tc-l-72w-pcbox-super-bud-chemdogxssxsj.50416/

cultivation probably inspired by ideas from IC mag. The sources used are probably around 1 µmol/J

zzz.jpg Profil4.jpg sb~0.jpg chemdog3.jpg

first sketch, this can be done more easily, copper capillaries with heat shrinkable tubing as insulation instead of cables.

KANLUX_IDEA-FIX_02.jpg
KANLUX_IDEA-FIXb29b5d7090a470f4.jpg
KANLUX_IDEA-FIX_023.jpg



more than twice as efficient a light source, higher photon flux values ​​with lower power. Unfortunately, the filaments are quite delicate and they are easy to damage with chip on glas technology. Something for something as always. Good quality 10W filaments in Poland can be bought for PLN 17 if you look well. $ 4.3 more or less. sourcing elements from it is more difficult and laborious.

filament-led-tare-down-_018.jpg
filament-led-tare-down-_012.jpg
filament-led-tare-down-_017.jpg
filament-led-tare-down-_01.jpg
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Construction of the panel with the use of bridgelux strips is very simple, but the costs are much higher when achieving similar efficiencies.


I purchased my Bridgelux Gen2 strips just after the Gen3 strips came out, so they were quite cheap.

They are available in Poland for about 11.50 Zloty or $2.80 USD each.

They are 1200 lumens and 185 lm/watt. (at test current)


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Newer strips are around 200 lm/watt but are a lot more expensive.
Samsung has some very good LED chips as well, but they too are quite expensive.


Unfortunately, they don't list the efficiency in umol/J, so I don't know what that number is.



A decent power suplay is expensive, I would not choose a power supply like yours, rather regulated with an efficiency of at least 0.93 for full load.



I've got two basic 24 volt 500 Watt voltage supplies that cost about $35 USD each.

They are about 85% efficient.

A proper 500 Watt MeanWell LED driver is about $150 USD each.



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My voltage supplies aren't the best, but I've got volt meters and Ammeters on them so I can keep an eye on them.




It looks like you have a great source for highly efficient LED chips at a great price.
It's just that 300 VAC thing that would make me really nervous.
 

NIKT

Active member
9c0_87_4U_28_ Zdefiniowanie stanu chorobowego jest tak samo trudne, jak sprecyzowanie stanu pełni zdrowia (zob. dobrostan subiektywny).
I purchased my Bridgelux Gen2 strips just after the Gen3 strips came out, so they were quite cheap.
They are available in Poland for about 11.50 Zloty or $2.80 USD each.
They are 1200 lumens and 185 lm/watt. (at test current)

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similar SPD to LSC 3000K 80 CRI 175 lm/w at 25. In real operation temp less.
power supplay 0,93 => 162 lm/W : temperature _ and i have maybe 153 lm/W. With good quality power suplay.

LSC before mod _ 145 lm/W _ afrer at half power ?? 153 ?? 155 ?? ;) =>

Even after a modification that increases the efficiency, I have it cheaper. With disadvantages, but cheaper.


PCBuds said:
Newer strips are around 200 lm/watt but are a lot more expensive.
Samsung has some very good LED chips as well, but they too are quite expensive.

A few pages ago there were screenshots of an Excel tool for counting the efficiency of 3rd generation strips. Tool from the lighting thread at F# forum. Mainly about lighting, comics, music and trolls performances - such local specificity.

Unfortunately, they don't list the efficiency in umol/J, so I don't know what that number is.

Easy to calculate if you know the spectral power distribution for a given spectral temperature and CRI. The differences between different LEDs with similar CCT and CRI are small.
Back then, when COB came out, people were even making programs to do this. Cannabis fan forum: lol :. The precursor of calculations on forums is Knna. I've always liked reading what he wrote.

I've got two basic 24 volt 500 Watt voltage supplies that cost about $35 USD each.
They are about 85% efficient.
A proper 500 Watt MeanWell LED driver is about $150 USD each.

Unfortunately, the power supply sometimes comes out at a price similar to the sources. Such cmu2236 cree cool cheap LEDs as the most sensible source _ but power costs;]
15% of losses;(

It looks like you have a great source for highly efficient LED chips at a great price.
It's just that 300 VAC thing that would make me really nervous.

;) low current

High power power supplies with currents of 1.4 A also have quite a lot of voltage, which does not bother me. I'm just afraid of bundling the power supplies together to increase the power. Easier wiring, but ... With small projects up to 200 W, I don't see a problem. With 550 sketched on 1.2x1.2 m already yes;) Safe installation that allows change the power of the panel will be rather overly complicated. Maybe someone will build something like this. I'd rather stay with: 8/16 items ...

These are just such ideas .. To get something more out of it than a slight increase in durability _ bring the functionality closer to the panel built on the basis of non-recycled components.
If there is such a possibility, why not give it a try, the cost of the game is almost none. Aluminum is expensive ;( This can't get around easily: lol:

There is also an idea for modifying lamps that have a power supply built into the PCB: also connecting two PCBs in parallel _ permanent, one of the power supplies to be desoldered. If a similarly efficient and cheap source appears and it has such a power supply, it will work. At the moment there are two interesting types available that would be worth modifying. Unfortunately they are expensive:

first:
came out too look too good ??
efficiency is more or less pulled from the ceiling I have no spd for these LEDs. a typical 95 CRI was used. Perhaps it is profitable to buy them in the promotion.
ATTralux_95_CRI_1900-lm.jpg


next: Osram 19 W a++

the old type was much better more diodes on the mcpcb without a built-in power supply attached with two screws with thermal paste underneath. Almost perfect.

The new generation has fewer diodes, a little less efficiency from the measurement and is made like crap. But it still has a very nice performance. It would be worth releasing it at half power with. The price;] is too high, however, several times more expensive than LSC with additional problems, difficult to modify.

[[below the calculation of the efficiency between 400_700 nm and 400_750 nm. It is not known how long the new fashion will last. It's going to be a mess. The grow panels producers are more likely to give this one to 750: lol:]]
osram_19W_a.jpg


3 generations of Osram lamps. from the right 20W _ 19W A ++ and the latter is the latest A ++ type available At the bottom there is a dial 14.5 W. You can compare the transparency of the diffusers _ they are more and more transparent from generation to generation;) Slightly more directional with lower losses on difuser.

rozpraszacze.jpg



New and older. The old one is basically unavailable. The price was worthy of NASA.

osram_gowno_19_w.jpg
19_w_osram.jpg
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Both are more expensive than the V tac evolution 15 W, which is supposed to be the same as the LSC 17W _ whitch worse than it could be, due to the slightly higher power and load ?? of the diodes. Or the meter will calibrate;) Or ??
Not very important, around PLN 20 minimum versus PLN 13. Its available in Action stores.


The evolution V tac series is interesting because there are 6.5 W and 9.5 W, lamps like that are better scalable for small projects. Lots of low power sources working closer than 15_17_19 w. Less light losses in small boxes in the walls have a big impact on this.

V tac 9,5 W inside => Gość.

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The simplest possible method of improving the heat dissipation of E27 lamps. It is enough to get rid of unnecessary plastic, which is rather thermal insulation. Rather it helps .. rather ...

by gość
P50800603b7ea19cd9cfc971.jpg

Teardown

The plastic is just squeezed with a dremel as shown. About 2 minutes per lamp. Even those with a paper-thin liner are easy to peel off plastic.

osram-13-w-01.jpg

osram-13-w-02.jpg

osram-13-w-03.jpg


LSC 17 W 2500 lm 300K 80 CRI

lsc_01.jpg

lsc_02.jpg
lsc_03.jpg

Music such a tradition from F#

music that is closely related to all these e27 ideas


;)

==>

https://www.icmag.com/forum/marijuan...8#post11980093

@PCBuds

As I see nothing new. You tried to do similar things with the e27 tiles.
So far I have run the LSC 17W on a power supply from a 7W lamp. The result of 16.6 W, similar to the orginal power supply, it managed to power 80 diodes in 4 rows of 20 pcs.

You also chose the boards themselves: It looks a bit too laborious, but it is some method of supplying these LEDs with a normal power supply. Maybe i will try it on a few mcpcb. If it was possible to reach sensible V values, it could be supplied with a cheap 350 mA power supply. I don't know if it's worth it;) maybe for the sake of playing with it. ??
I look through the entire thread and see that basically everything I thought has already been done. ;) Nothing new. I am just wondering => LSC power supplies work the same as standard constant current supplay, and afrer connecting mcpcb in parallel, it will be at half power. ?? or not.

from my point of view, the schematic of these power supplies will oscillate somewhere in this area. Almost all lamps on the e27 have a constant current driver chip in the power supply. Perhaps one or two of the antiquities in collection had only a bridge rectifier + resistor.

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I don't know anything about it. Light intensity measurements yes, but no electricity. For me, they are building blocks. in this case, without the exact specification of the data sheet.

==>

roughly 1/4 ?? of the E27 lamp collection. If I spent the money I spent on this whole garbage can, for strips on 3030 lm301H LEDs, I would have a pretty good and high-performance panel. ;) With an efficiency of at least 2.5-2.6 µmol/J even. But there would be no fun, just sticking not recycled blocks together.

zabawki.jpg


=> from china.By user F# Gość.

https://forum.haszysz.com/threads/di...4x4-ft.127555/

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Fv current characteristic of this strips ;=> not smooth from measurment by Gośc. smooth simulation based on data sheet.

cos-wyslo_czy_dopse_chOj_wie.jpg


strips:

https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/...593e2582hbfFVa

grow under kigbriteled panel basen on similar strips: CO2 suplementation 2g/W.

.. the panel shown above works at half the current than the orginal. There is no need to add heat sinks to this. Cheaper and easier. nothing as efficient can not be built imo. Strips without 660 nm diodes. The ones that they add are not very efficient and it is not worth taking the versions equipped with them. imo.

https://forum.haszysz.com/threads/sa...k-grow.126654/

by : Username93

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At the moment there is probably not much else worth showing here from the forum #.


sorry for my English. I read without any problems, I write with the help of AI. Unfortunately, it doesn't look very good. even for me: lol:
 

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NIKT

Active member
9c0_87_4U_28_ Zdefiniowanie stanu chorobowego jest tak samo trudne, jak sprecyzowanie stanu pełni zdrowia (zob. dobrostan subiektywny).
A new series of lamps in IKEA stores. 9,5 W 2700K SOLHETTA LED bulb E27 1521 lumen, dimmable. Assuming a CRI of 92, [[declaration on box >90 ]] would have an astonishing efficiency of around 2.55 umol/J. There are no measurements, but usually, as a result of this not very reliable game, values close to the declaration are obtained. Fully modifiable the same as the 17 W LSC [2 boards connected in parallel for one power supply operate at roughly half the power _ it has been checked]. Perhaps, after a similar modification, it would be possible to achieve efficiency in the range of 2.6 umol/J. Dimmable without switching the power supply on the switches. Unfortunately, the lamps are not cheap.
ikea_160-lm_w.jpg

SOLHETTA-Zarowka-LED-E27-1521-lumenow.jpg


There is a problem with this estimate. The diodes may have the CRI pulled up differently. Red addition with red / orange chip. On the phosphor alone, off the white line + 635 nm or lower. In this case, the estimated efficiency will not be so outstanding ;(

ikea_led.jpg


maybe it looks like this _ 2.45 umol/J ?? I don't have access to a spectroradiometer and it simulates more or less what it could look like in this case.

inacze-ciegniete-cri.jpg


comparison with the V tac evolution 9.5W 6400K

V-tac-obok-IKEA.jpg


another lamp from the swedish furniture market

IKEA SOLHETTA LED 5.9W 806 lm CRI> 90.


ikea-solhetta-led-5i9W-806-lm-cri-90-136-lm-w.jpg


In this case, the 3rd chip is not visible. Earlier IKEA lamps were also devoid of additional chips in the case of lower wattages. They used 2 blends to improve CRI, sometimes in earlier lamps it was an addition of several low-power diodes with a different phosphor.

I look at them more closely in the daylight. Here, the efficiency is estimated after the data from the box without assuming the height after removing the plastic diffuser 2.17 umol / J with a CRI perhaps around 92 [ most often their lamps were located in this area so far, see lamptest.ru ]

Previous generation. CRI corrected with diodes of different emission. ?? Similar to those sometimes sold to plants without green photons "
,probably" only a red phosphor. LEDs with high CRI have different compositions of phosphors, here "red" has been added to improve the CRI from "phosfor" LEDs . Quite a common practice.

https://www.growtent.pl/product-pol-...-LED-Grow.html

pol_pl_Grow-The-Jungle-The-Jackson-150W-Lampa-LED-Grow-5319_6.jpg


this smd2835 lamp with 95 CRI is built exactly the same. The manufacturer declares about 1.95 µmol / J .. But the analysis of the data provided shows that they count from 400 to 750 nm, according to the new fashion.

If you count it, the standard method is around 1.85 umol/J more or less like philips 13W A ++. At high CRIs, the lamp emission between 700 and 750 nm is higher for identical CCTs. Probably non-zero effect on phytochrome. I don't know if it is worth any attention at all. Mars hydro TS series had a CRI of 70 and CCT within the limits close to 4000 K - with a symbolic addition of 660 nm diodes, not worth mentioning, and a few 730 nm diodes, which in this amount do not give practically any trace of the SPD.

I don't remember anyone complaining about these cheap panels, it grew quite well. An economic source of photons similar in structure to a baking mold.
Rather, hemp is quite tolerant of the spectrum and the yield itself appears to be most directly related simply to the photon flux value. Blue photons have an effect on habit and pull-out comparison of height under very poor HPS and the rest of the available sources. And possibly a big influence on the THC content that blue photons seem to have an influence on. There are research results and the spectrum with the addition of UVA did not differ much from the spectrum with only blue photons. It differed from the HPS and the difference of about 18% from the average is not small. Such an opinion based on freely selected data.

IKEA lamp => LEDARE 2 different led types.


ledare.jpg
 
Last edited:

red363

New member
9c0_87_4U_28_ Zdefiniowanie stanu chorobowego jest tak samo trudne, jak sprecyzowanie stanu pełni zdrowia (zob. dobrostan subiektywny).
A new series of lamps in IKEA stores. 9,5 W 2700K SOLHETTA LED bulb E27 1521 lumen, dimmable. Assuming a CRI of 92, [[declaration on box >90 ]] would have an astonishing efficiency of around 2.55 umol/J. There are no measurements, but usually, as a result of this not very reliable game, values close to the declaration are obtained. Fully modifiable the same as the 17 W LSC [2 boards connected in parallel for one power supply operate at roughly half the power _ it has been checked]. Perhaps, after a similar modification, it would be possible to achieve efficiency in the range of 2.6 umol/J. Dimmable without switching the power supply on the switches. Unfortunately, the lamps are not cheap.
ikea_160-lm_w.jpg

SOLHETTA-Zarowka-LED-E27-1521-lumenow.jpg


There is a problem with this estimate. The diodes may have the CRI pulled up differently. Red addition with red / orange chip. On the phosphor alone, off the white line + 635 nm or lower. In this case, the estimated efficiency will not be so outstanding ;(

ikea_led.jpg


maybe it looks like this _ 2.45 umol/J ?? I don't have access to a spectroradiometer and it simulates more or less what it could look like in this case.

inacze-ciegniete-cri.jpg


comparison with the V tac evolution 9.5W 6400K

V-tac-obok-IKEA.jpg


another lamp from the swedish furniture market

IKEA SOLHETTA LED 5.9W 806 lm CRI> 90.


ikea-solhetta-led-5i9W-806-lm-cri-90-136-lm-w.jpg


In this case, the 3rd chip is not visible. Earlier IKEA lamps were also devoid of additional chips in the case of lower wattages. They used 2 blends to improve CRI, sometimes in earlier lamps it was an addition of several low-power diodes with a different phosphor.

I look at them more closely in the daylight. Here, the efficiency is estimated after the data from the box without assuming the height after removing the plastic diffuser 2.17 umol / J with a CRI perhaps around 92 [ most often their lamps were located in this area so far, see lamptest.ru ]

Previous generation. CRI corrected with diodes of different emission. ?? Similar to those sometimes sold to plants without green photons "
,probably" only a red phosphor. LEDs with high CRI have different compositions of phosphors, here "red" has been added to improve the CRI from "phosfor" LEDs . Quite a common practice.

https://www.growtent.pl/product-pol-...-LED-Grow.html

pol_pl_Grow-The-Jungle-The-Jackson-150W-Lampa-LED-Grow-5319_6.jpg


this smd2835 lamp with 95 CRI is built exactly the same. The manufacturer declares about 1.95 µmol / J .. But the analysis of the data provided shows that they count from 400 to 750 nm, according to the new fashion.

If you count it, the standard method is around 1.85 umol/J more or less like philips 13W A ++. At high CRIs, the lamp emission between 700 and 750 nm is higher for identical CCTs. Probably non-zero effect on phytochrome. I don't know if it is worth any attention at all. Mars hydro TS series had a CRI of 70 and CCT within the limits close to 4000 K - with a symbolic addition of 660 nm diodes, not worth mentioning, and a few 730 nm diodes, which in this amount do not give practically any trace of the SPD.

I don't remember anyone complaining about these cheap panels, it grew quite well. An economic source of photons similar in structure to a baking mold.
Rather, hemp is quite tolerant of the spectrum and the yield itself appears to be most directly related simply to the photon flux value. Blue photons have an effect on habit and pull-out comparison of height under very poor HPS and the rest of the available sources. And possibly a big influence on the THC content that blue photons seem to have an influence on. There are research results and the spectrum with the addition of UVA did not differ much from the spectrum with only blue photons. It differed from the HPS and the difference of about 18% from the average is not small. Such an opinion based on freely selected data.

IKEA lamp => LEDARE 2 different led types.


ledare.jpg

This last photo of yours is the most common led type in Brazil, fewer LEDs with same Wattage. Are they as good as the SIL with 30 plus LEDs?
 
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