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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

PCBuds

Well-known member
...
I wanted to see if this thing would power the 9w boards I was testing a few pages back. I left it set at 11.84V thinking it would be best to underpower than overpower for my initial trials. I hooked up the LEDs, held my breath, and plugged it in... nothing. I turned the dial up to 12V then to 12.68V and still nothing.


I didn’t want to turn the dial up any higher so I ended my trial there...


I watched the two YouTube videos you posted and realized that the square LED segments may have more than one LED inside so I plugged in my power supply and turned it up until they just started to glow.

It looks like at least three LEDs inside each square, so that's why they need 12 Volts.

 

indagroove

Well-known member
Veteran
My understanding is that seedlings get only water until they've got two full sets of leaves but clones get nutes right from the start.

(although I've never grown a clone.)

I grow my clones and seedlings the same way.. Start in party cups filled 2/3 of the way up with Fire Fox Ocean Forest soil, topped the rest of the way with jiffy seedling mix. That way they both start in an inert medium, and once the root system is developed they grow into the soil below with organic nutes. Once the root system fills the party cup, I start feeding nutes and transplant into 1-gallon containers.
 

ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
Day 28

Day 28

Day 28 flower.

I’m really liking all 5000k so far. They did very little stretching and were taking up 75-80 percent of the area when flipped. I think they vegged for at least a good 6 weeks. it’s looking like a pretty dense canopy full of dense fatties. Maybe 5000k SIL’s can actually produce much more quantity as well as quality in this way.

Top row bugglegum in screen.
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Top row 2x GG#4
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Tangelo
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2 x BG
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Tangelo cola
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ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
1000% sure you have way too much in your pic. in a space that small for rooting, you'd still need to move them way to one side under a single CFL.

Thx for confirming. I’ve replaced them with bulbs with globes still on. I might throw a paper towel over the middle of the dome on the next batch to soften the light even more. I’ll also have proper humid dome/tray which should help and go straight from cutting to clonex/rock wool into the dome and I’ll be using Rapid Start in the water. Starting with some much healthier cuttings and practicing a more sanitary cuts/conditions.
 

argo430

Member
Veteran
Whats up? Under the SIL's we have a cheese dog, two Rekio X crosses red poison x SBR 's on the end grass monkey




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ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
Here’s my new batch of cuttings with much softer light, a proper dome/tray although I need a taller dome because some of the cuttings are touching this dumb short one... that’s all the hydro store I was at had at the time, also some Rapid Start in the water and cut from healthier moms. X-acto knife wiped with alchohal before each cut and duped directly in clonex and put straight into either a cup water, a rock wool plug, or a cup of perlite with a bit of xtra water, all with rapid start. I’m hoping these all root nice and I can pick my favorite method which might be the 5os cups of perlite so far, it was just the easiest/smoothest.
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I also turned my heating matt down from 83 to 79. On all my previous batches I was letting the cuttings sit in a cup of plain tap water for a day or two to soften the stem and they weren’t in a dome. A friend suggested that was hurting them for the leaves to not have proper humidity and I’m thinking the wet stems were repelling clonex and that the clonex making direct immediate contact with the fresh clean cuts and going straight into dome might make a big difference. Also I have the paper towel over the center of the dome to soften the light. One 10w soft white and one 10 daylight with globes still on are above that. I have high hopes for this batch.
 

ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
These bastards.... I don’t wanna have to switch to hard pots but I might have to just for this reason. That’s a fungus gnat larva having a field day on the org nutes and roots coming out of the fabric pots. There’s a couple more of those ugly bastards in the background. I been using mosquito bits like crazy I mixed in my soil and watering with them all the time. Maybe I’ll spray some water soaked with em on the outside of the pots to hopefully kill some of these off. These bastards murdered 4 out of six of my little seedling babies. I don’t want them around any more. I’ll be using mosquito bits/dunks and sand and traps for the rest of my life. Hopefully at some point it becomes a preventative instead of battle weapons.

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PCBuds

Well-known member
I went with a dome too...




I've got a peanut butter jar ready for when she gets bigger. Lol 😆



Oh, what the hell..

I gave her the peanut butter jar early.

But when she outgrows it, she's on her own. Lol 😆

 

Hookahhead

Active member
Fungus gnat control

Fungus gnat control

I’ll be using mosquito bits/dunks and sand and traps for the rest of my life. Hopefully at some point it becomes a preventative instead of battle weapons.

It seems like you’re using them appropriately, I just wanted to point out that mosquito dunks and bits are the purified insecticidal proteins from BT bacteria. At first I mistakenly thought it was an inoculation of a live organism. It’s also worth noting that there are numerous strains of BT bacteria that are better/worse at killing certain pest populations. Although others have reported success with dunks, it may be better to seek out out of the BT products that specifically target gnats.

I have personally had good success from adding Lactobacillus serum. Here’s a little more info if you’re looking for some other ammunition’s.

Efficacy of Beauveria bassiana formulations against the fungus gnat Lycoriella ingenua

Lycoriella ingenua Dufour (Diptera: Sciaridae) is a major pest species in commercial mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) production throughout the world. Grower demand for alternative control measures, following the recent withdrawal of a number of chemical control options, led to a label extension for use of the fungal biopesticide BotaniGard® ES, for control of mushroom flies. Semi-field trials were conducted to evaluate the efficacy of BotaniGard® ES, and two alternative formulations of Beauveria bassiana strain GHA (the active ingredient in BotaniGard® ES), for control of L. ingenua, and their effect on crop yield when incorporated at spawning. Data collected from two replicated trials demonstrated that incorporation of B. bassiana was not detrimental to mushroom yield, but was also ineffective in controlling the development of L. ingenua larvae in artificially infested compost. Subsequent laboratory bioassays demonstrated that L. ingenua eggs and larvae were not susceptible to infection by B. bassiana strain GHA whereas pupae were somewhat susceptible (41% mortality). Bioassays conducted on adult L. ingenua using 1 h exposure to a surface sprayed with BotaniGard® ES resulted in 100% mortality within 8 days and a mean survival time of 6 days, which was significantly different from the control population.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1049964416301700

Controlling Fungus Gnats:

Monitor your growing area for presence of adult fungus gnats using yellow sticky traps. Adding Melissa oil to the traps has shown improved results in attracting fungus gnats.
Control soil moisture by using soil mixtures with proper drainage. Avoid overwatering to minimize breeding habitat.

Preventive and corrective applications of Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis products kills larvae before they can pupate. Aquabac, Mosquito Bits and Mosquito Beater WSP can all be used similarly to control and/or suppress fungus gnat populations.

Apply Steinernema feltiae Nemattack, Sf to the growing media. The beneficial nematodes will parasitize existing fungus gnat larvae, slow their feeding and kill them.

S. scimitus (H. miles) helps break up the life cycle and eventually controls fungus gnat infestations by feeding on larvae and pupae. This small mite also feeds on thrips pupae and springtails.

Beauveria bassiana is a beneficial fungus that infects and kills a number of insect species. Applications should be made to growing media for fungus gnat control.
https://www.arbico-organics.com/category/pest-solver-guide-fungus-gnats
 

Hookahhead

Active member
I had to replace two bulbs in the bathroom because they burned out. I got a little excited when I saw they were SILs. 9w 6000k no name listed.

The driver is soldered directly to the LED board. It’s fun to see all the different ways these things are put together. It’s easy to see why the light failed, burned out LEDs. The one with multiple burnt LEDs was flickering for a bit before cutting out. All of those cracks in the board looks kind of bad to me.

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At some point I will try driving my other 9w boards from a few posts back with this driver.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
At some point I will try driving my other 9w boards from a few posts back with this driver.



I bet if you apply ~10-12 VDC to all the other LED segments, they would all light.

Use your new 12 V driver.
(don't forget to check both ways.)


I'm thinking your PCB failed and the copper foil cracked, but your LEDs still work.





My 10W bulbs have 12 LED segments.
Yours have 10.

Too much voltage/heat per segment.

Is your bathroom fixture enclosed ?
 

PCBuds

Well-known member



They are also more tolerant to pesticides, and feed very little before leaving the host plant in search of hibernation or resting sites. It is the adult female that goes into diapause, and she mates but lays no eggs prior to seeking her resting site. She also tends to move downwards towards the floor area and away from light.



These are your soil mites..






These are mine...








I'll bet you when my adult menopausal spider mites left the canopy for the hibernation sites of the soil, they were eaten by my big ass soil mites.

Yay for my Soil Mites !!!
 

ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
Hooka and PCB - Thanks for the info on those predators my dudes. Those sound most excellent. I will definitely be getting some of those soon and employ those regularly as well. I wonder if any Benni mites are harmed by BT-I....
 

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