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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

A

argo430

Member
Veteran
i raised em up 6" they will be fine. thanks for the tip.


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Hookahhead

Hookahhead

Active member
I went to the capital over the weekend. We have these large “Chinese import” stores that has all sorts of generic stuff direct from China. I knew they had LED drivers so I stopped in to grab one.

I got a 12v 10A box for less than $10
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It came set at 11.84V from the factory, but has a pot to adjust it.

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I wanted to see if this thing would power the 9w boards I was testing a few pages back. I left it set at 11.84V thinking it would be best to underpower than overpower for my initial trials. I hooked up the LEDs, held my breath, and plugged it in... nothing. I turned the dial up to 12V then to 12.68V and still nothing.

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I didn’t want to turn the dial up any higher so I ended my trial there. I have some experience with using this type of driver to power multiple strands of LED tape. We were using 25A and 30A versions though and those all had a 120mm computer fan built in. This box does not, so I don’t know if that’s because it’s the cheapest build possible or you just don’t need to compensate for heat until higher amperage. I’m guessing it’s the cheapest haha.

So it looks like if my initial tests were right, the board was being driven with 107.4V DC. (old pic)
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If we ignore any loss from the SIL driver and assume the bulb actually draws 9w... the math for the current works out to 9W/107.4V = 0.084A. There are 36 chips on the board... that’s pretty much where my understanding off all of this stops. I had hoped that I could just mount up a few of these plates up and run them like the strips or the tape. That doesn’t seem to be the case, at least with these boards. Now that I have a driver on hand, I can test out other boards that come my way.



P.S. ScrogMonster see this post about your picture problem.
 
Hookahhead

Hookahhead

Active member
I looked more into the Edison bulbs igrowone mentioned earlier. I found this page that offers a great explanation.

https://ledlam.co.uk/how-do-led-filament-work

Edited: I found this interesting bit in the comments
There is no heatsink required. LED filament bulbs have many smaller, lower power LED chips than other types, avoiding the need for a heatsink, but they have heat dissipation paths for reliable operation. The lamp may contain a high thermal conductivity gas (helium) blend as well to better conduct heat from the LED filament to the glass bulb. The LED filaments also can be arranged to optimize heat dissipation.
Click to expand...

And this great YouTube video
[YOUTUBEIF]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H_XiunR-cAQ[/YOUTUBEIF]
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H_XiunR-cAQ


Yet another rabbit hole for PCBuds to explore ;)
 
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PCBuds

PCBuds

Well-known member
Hookahhead said:
I wanted to see if this thing would power the 9w boards I was testing a few pages back. I left it set at 11.84V thinking it would be best to underpower than overpower for my initial trials. I hooked up the LEDs, held my breath, and plugged it in... nothing. I turned the dial up to 12V then to 12.68V and still nothing.
Click to expand...

Try touching the 12 V directly to either side of a single LED segment.

I know they're supposed to have 3-4 V forward bias but my segments measured ~12 V when the bulb was running and I got the segments lit at 12 V (they just started to glow at 7 V)

Swap the + & - on the segment if it doesn't light.


Hookahhead said:
We were using 25A and 30A versions though and those all had a 120mm computer fan built in. This box does not, so I don’t know if that’s because it’s the cheapest build possible or you just don’t need to compensate for heat until higher amperage. I’m guessing it’s the cheapest haha.
Click to expand...

I think it's a heat dissipation thing.
My driver is 500 Watts, 24 V, and 20 Amps and has a fan.

Yours would be around 120 Watts and can dissipate it's heat without a fan. (just lots of holes to help it breathe ).
 
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ScrogMonster

ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
chronosync said:
Too much light too soon. I had the same thing happen until I started using a shade cloth. To the point of even a 9w bulb with the globe on is too much directly over my clone dome, I put a swatch of black solar screen over the top to diffuse and block some of the light
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I do believe that is part of the problem.
 
PCBuds

PCBuds

Well-known member
Hookahhead said:
I looked more into the Edison bulbs igrowone mentioned earlier. I found this page that offers a great explanation.

https://ledlam.co.uk/how-do-led-filament-work

And this great YouTube video
[YOUTUBEIF]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H_XiunR-cAQ[/YOUTUBEIF]
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H_XiunR-cAQ


Yet another rabbit hole for PCBuds to explore ;)
Click to expand...

I read the explanation and it makes sense to me.
I remember someone mentioning that they didn't seem very bright but I think it's kind of an optical illusion.

If each little strip was shrunk down to a small single spot of light, it would appear a lot brighter even though its got the same Im/Watt.


I watched the video and like the way he must have spent countless hours making something that just doesn't matter.
I can relate to that. Lol

I'm sticking with my strips now.
I've pulled enough crap out of the rabbit hole. Lol
 
Hookahhead

Hookahhead

Active member
I liked this part from the LED article.

In Addition to our standard Day White and Warm White colour temperatures, our filament range is available in a new temperature that we call ‘flame Warm’.

Our Day White colour temperature is around 4000K, whilst our Warm White is around 2800K. Flame Warm takes the colour temperature even lower at 2200K and produces a very warm light that is similar to that of candle light. This will give your rooms a really cozy and warm atmosphere that is great for relaxing in.
Click to expand...

Referencing the HTGSupply site again, it looks like most HPS bulbs are advertised at 2100k.

A 1000w hortilux
LU1000bHTLen-sd.png


2200k LED compared to 4125K moonlight
Moonlight-II.jpg


Interestingly I found this image on an article for the Honolulu civil beat talking about using LED as street lights. The article discusses the difference between 4000K LED and 2200K LED in regards to matching moonlight. Aside from the this being the first time I’ve seen a moonlight spectrum, I was quite surprised to see how far into UV and IR their results show. It’s not the normal truncated visible range you see elsewhere.

Moonlight.jpg


Seeing the Light: City’s LED Project Needs Revisions: https://www.civilbeat.org/2015/08/seeing-the-light-citys-led-project-needs-revisions/
 
Hookahhead

Hookahhead

Active member
It’s been quiet in here lately. I finally have my “machine” fully assembled, now to just keep it running smoothly.

Clones 3x1.5 ft under 34 watts
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Small plants, each level is 4.15 sq ft. Top is under 114w, button is under 56w.
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Big plants are under 20x14w (280w) bulbs covering a roughly 3x3 area.
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The plants spend approximately 2 weeks in each stage. Finally they get moved out to the “screen house”, that runs fully on solar energy.
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Grand total of 21.8 sq ft lit under 484w of SIL
 
Hookahhead

Hookahhead

Active member
I like checking out all of the different LED options when I go into a new store. Here’s some things I saw on my trip today.

First thing that caught my eye was these anti insect bulbs. As far as I can tell there may be yellow LEDs inside. The store had a display setup and it the globe had a yellow glow, i would have liked to take a peak inside haha. They have low advertised efficiency at 620 lm for 9w.
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I did find the spec sheet online.
https://sylvania-andina.com/co/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/1.-FT-P27365.pdf

Osram has their own version, which I find more interesting. It’s labeled as a Dual LED light and shows advertises 806 lm for 8w.
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I couldn’t find a spec sheet or more information about this specific bulb. If anyone else cares to do a search, I’d be interested to see it. I believe it switches between daylight and a yellow light based off flipping the switch as this bulb does.

https://www.illuminer.com.mx/especiales/398-foco-repelente-led-dual-8w.html

I did find a video on what I believe may show the inside of a similar bulb. I haven’t figured out how to properly embed YouTube videos on ICMag, so here’s a link.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bVBUjXmWC2w

There is also a version that attracts and “zaps” the insects too. I really like this guys channel.

https://youtu.be/Mz3RWYn7jQY

Next up are the big boys, 50W, 80W, and 100W. I’m guessing these have COBs inside. They all had similar advertised ratings, this one shows 9000 lm at 100W.
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Then the Edison bulbs. I saw 2-6W versions. The 6w cool white had the highest efficiency at 700lm for 6W. This is higher than the opaque globed SILs most of us use, but I’m guessing this is due to the clear globe. I would still like to see a larger light based off these filaments.
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The final light was a fluorescent replacement. I was kind of shocked to see it advertised at 23W and 3600lm. This is higher than other similar bulbs I’ve seen. This was a complete fixture, and was 60$ so I didn’t check it out further.
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