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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

Rust, there have been a few people on here that have discussed removing the screw in base. Some have gone as far as mounting these to a heat plate, they’re basically like miniature quantum boards when you removing the housing. You’ll certainly gain another inch or 2 of head room too.

However, many people enjoy the screw in aspect. The main advantage for me is that we can switch out bulbs as desired. I have replaced generic bulbs with better bulbs/spectrum as I’ve found them.

Good luck with your project, be sure to post photos here as you progress!

Thanks I won't repeat then. However, the bulbs I have gave me a surprise the metal heat sink extends all the way to the top of housing...but anyway thanks for the heads-up :tiphat:
 

Hookahhead

Active member
I didn’t mean to discourage you at all bud, I just wanted you to know there are others out there that have done this too. Continue to design your setup in a way that works best for you, and post pictures so others can learn from your experience.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
.., the bulbs I have gave me a surprise the metal heat sink extends all the way to the top of housing...

Keep the heat in mind with whatever you come up with.

I've had some bulbs start to turn yellow from the heat.

I would think the base and the socket it screws into helps to dissipate excess heat.

The insulation on the wires may start to melt and fire may become an issue. The solder may even melt.

My small soldering iron for electronics is only 7 Watts.

 
I didn’t mean to discourage you at all bud, I just wanted you to know there are others out there that have done this too. Continue to design your setup in a way that works best for you, and post pictures so others can learn from your experience.

Thank you I will, but I won't need to include the same old stuff :)
 

The Zientist

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the suggestion as well noknees. :)

For now, I'll continue sourcing SILs with higher chip count than the ones I've shown. (Led- Pol - 11w, 1055lm, 11 chips ; 3000, 4000, 6500k)
The thing about these is their overall good value: what they offer in relation to their cost.
Despite this, they don't seem optimal for the my setup in particular, as a higher chip count would work better I suppose, as well as a slightly higher wattage, although the later can be fixed by adding more bulbs to the fixture.


I'm planning on putting together a dedicated small tent for vegging, also using SILs, of course. Using around 10x of mixed 6w, 470lm, 14 chips (4000k and 6500k) as it seems to me that they will do a pretty nice job for what is needed. Not so demanding and finicky here, as I'm being with the flowering specs.



Word of Caution with Domeless SILs:

As shown, there are exposed metal parts, if you happen to touch them while working at the tent (typical in micro grows) you'll be zapped!! use hot glue or non-conductive silicone to cover them.

Well... can't say I haven't figured that out, pretty quickly and first hand. :smoker:


Hookahhead said:
The daylight bulbs are all that and a bag of chips... 30 of them!
These seem awesome! I'll stay on the look out.


Repuk, Hookahhead, nooknees and everyone that reads my considerations and feels like I'm making any wrong assumptions or conclusions or that you have any constructive contribution to add, I'd be thankful.


Trying to narrow down any possible mistakes to a minimum and assembling the best setup and most rewarding setup possible.
 
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PCBuds

Well-known member
My latest plant.
White Widow at 8 weeks from seed.
Three days into flower.





I'm only 0.5 grams per Watt but I'm after $ invested per gram.

I have 150 Watts of SIL's and a 160 Watt 4' Fluoro.

My LED bulbs were 75¢-$1.25 each.
All I them 8-10 Watts.

The 14 Watt LED (100 W equivalent) bulbs are $10 each.

(I'll replace my fluoro with LEDs when the bulbs burn out but I'll have to rebuild my cab and I'm lazy. lol)
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Word of Caution with Domeless SILs:

As shown, there are exposed metal parts, if you happen to touch them while working at the tent (typical in micro grows) you'll be zapped!! use hot glue or non-conductive silicone to cover them.


I don't think hot glue is a good idea.

This is what happened when I put hot glue and silicone on my bulb. (hot glue on the left. I turned the bulb off for the picture.)



 
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Drop That Sound

Well-known member
Hey guys, back at it.

High temp RTV silicone (The red or black stuff, for gaskets on engines, etc) is what I'm planning to use. A nice blob to insulate from any contact, as well as seal the center hole off on the LED chips. Just after carefully snipping off the excess from the 2 pointy little connection pins that stick out, as far as possible.. Part of my air cooled SIL projects, on my "screw-in around" thread that I'm finally getting back around too. I'll be removing the threaded base caps, and all the globes too.



Removing globes: Anyone think to just run the bulbs for a bit before removing them? They sure do get hot, as if they just came out of the oven ;) ;)

Great value walmart bulbs are pretty easy to remove the globes, as the rim where the globe is glued onto the housing is flat, and they are stingy with the glue. I just roll the bulb on the counter with a large old kitchen knife down into the seam, applying good pressure and occasionally using a prying motion. They pop off pretty easy compared to some bulbs where the globes rim is at an angle. Seems like every method used one could possibly lose a finger hahaha.

Can't wait to try heating the bulbs up with themselves first, to see if its even easier. Man, it's like a light bulb turned on above my head to think of that idea lol. We'll see, I wouldnt want them to get much hotter than they already do, but if that doesn't work I'll load up the muffin tray with some freshly baked SILs for a test too.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
In case anyone is interested, there is this stuff available.




It conducts heat but not electricity.

You could use it to glue the SIL's to a heat sink or maybe glue some cooling fins to the base.
Maybe cutouts from a cookie sheet?
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
This is how I removed my globes.
Drill a hole put a screwdriver through it and use the handle for leverage.
No sharps.

 

Hookahhead

Active member
^My method is similar. Except for I use channel locks at the top where you put the screw driver through. Open them real wide, squeeze down on the globe. Close them shut, crushing the tip of the globe and pinching it between the handles, then use the base as leverage to wiggle, pry, pull the globe off. Squeezing the globe helps break the bead of glue. The Osram globes are glued on really well.

channellock-all-trades-tongue-groove-pliers-426-64_1000.jpg
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
Exactly same as i use grips

Exactly same as i use grips

^My method is similar. Except for I use channel locks at the top where you put the screw driver through. Open them real wide, squeeze down on the globe. Close them shut, crushing the tip of the globe and pinching it between the handles, then use the base as leverage to wiggle, pry, pull the globe off. Squeezing the globe helps break the bead of glue. The Osram globes are glued on really well.

View Image

Seemed logical to me plus i had grips in tool box.A
 

piramidon

recidivist icmag - OUT-ist convins - microgrower
Veteran
I love the thread, a lot to learn from it, especially that I'm just switching from cfl to sil. :tiphat:
I've bought a bunch of Philips and Osram, but they're all "Made in China". Some in PRC... :biggrin:
Is this a regular thing or do I need to improve my shopping skills?
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
made under contract to a specification

made under contract to a specification

I love the thread, a lot to learn from it, especially that I'm just switching from cfl to sil. :tiphat:
I've bought a bunch of Philips and Osram, but they're all "Made in China". Some in PRC... :biggrin:
Is this a regular thing or do I need to improve my shopping skills?

Im pretty sure they are made in china to philips or osrams spec
Ive taken philips and osram apart
Im about to get some sylvania 15w directly from sylvania so then we will see.A
 

igrowone

Well-known member
Veteran
i have my own quirky method
pierce the plastic with a sharp point
then use a small carbide edged snipper to cut away the plastic
very gentle, minimal stress to the base
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Here's another method I found.





It cuts with regular scissors when it's gets hot enough.



It's a little dangerous but that makes it kinda fun. lol
 

Herbal Tea

New member
I find that using my cheap soldering iron makes quick work of the globes. Burn the globe in half & queeze... Globe comes off whole.
All my bulbs have been removed from their stock housing & mounted on heatsinks. The heatsink do get really hot if it's too small.
 

Herbal Tea

New member
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This is my d1 mini full automated micro grow box. 14x14x24 & running 4 15w. I check on it once every 2 to 3 weeks. That's a Bruce Banner #3, a Blue Dream, a Dosidos & a Sex Bud. All at different stages & growing like this I usually get 20g to 29g. All depends on starting size for flower but there's never less than 3 plants in it at a time.


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This is my d1 mini full automated micro grow box. 14x14x24 & running 4 15w. I check on it once every 2 to 3 weeks. That's a Bruce Banner #3, a Blue Dream, a Dosidos & a Sex Bud. All at different stages & growing like this I usually get 20g to 29g. All depends on starting size for flower but there's never less than 3 plants in it at a time.


View Image

WOW...nice job. :tiphat: What are the specs on the bulbs? Do I see solo cups, and what grow medium did you use? Love the fans...I have them everywhere. :)
 

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