blue_berry__
Member
They look so Fk Great!
GoodJob man i want a pictures if all flowers togheter
GoodJob man i want a pictures if all flowers togheter
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Nomaad OD:2010
- Thread starter nomaad
- Start date
T
Trinity Gold
No MycoStop just eats root rot.
T
Trinity Gold
Are you making sure to measure petiole and leaf separate? From reading it sounds like you are taking the sap from both parts and measuring that.
I have been. I asked somewhere what I was supposed to be doing. So just leaf or just petiole. Should they register the same brix levels?
edit: I don't think I mentioned this subject here. I got my refractometer today and have begun to look at brix levels in my plants. Apparently, I have been doing it wrong.
edit: I don't think I mentioned this subject here. I got my refractometer today and have begun to look at brix levels in my plants. Apparently, I have been doing it wrong.
try comb
Active member
very interested in this being figured out........ru noticing different levels in different strains so far ?
So... latest test... doing the petiole and the leaf separately, I got a very low reading of 4 (sharp) from the petiole and a reading of 12 (blurry) from the leaf.
At this point, with my understanding of Brix levels (almost none) the only thing that this test tells me is the general health and pest resistance of the plant. Over 12: good. Can anybody suggest some reading on this?
At this point, with my understanding of Brix levels (almost none) the only thing that this test tells me is the general health and pest resistance of the plant. Over 12: good. Can anybody suggest some reading on this?
Dude I'd take the reading from the stem of a fat fan leaf. That ought to give you an idea how happy ur plants are I'd think.
....
And all of that only to starve them in late flowering...
T
Trinity Gold
Hey what's up bro the petioles are like the veins...you can test them for Brix, but you'd be better off using petiole juice for NO3 , K , EC as the petiole pumps the leaves with water / food..the leaf takes up the food and processes it by taking in light and carbon...
If you want to measure brix, read the leaf sap, if you want to know how much of what you're giving them is making it in to the plant test the petiole sap, if you want to know how fast those elements are being used take the same readings(N , K, EC) from the leaf sap and compare to your notes from previous weeks/ days..
Each leaf and part of the plant can read different too so keep that in mind. Old growth will test out much diff than the freshest growth for example so you want to take an "average" from all over the plant..that doesn't mean to mix the sap but to take multiple readings per plant to get an idea of the whole individuals health.
Cutting off the food late in bloom keeps them from fully completing the biological processes we are asking of them ( to make fat, sticky, smelly nugs ) ... they need N P K Ca Mg S Fe etc., to do that and so to cut them off at the end or close to the end is like asking a body builder to grow with out eating...It just doesn't happen.
Have fun playing with your new toy...you can read up in the UC Davis Ag journal about leaf and petiole testing. That is where I learned how to do it.
If you want to measure brix, read the leaf sap, if you want to know how much of what you're giving them is making it in to the plant test the petiole sap, if you want to know how fast those elements are being used take the same readings(N , K, EC) from the leaf sap and compare to your notes from previous weeks/ days..
Each leaf and part of the plant can read different too so keep that in mind. Old growth will test out much diff than the freshest growth for example so you want to take an "average" from all over the plant..that doesn't mean to mix the sap but to take multiple readings per plant to get an idea of the whole individuals health.
Cutting off the food late in bloom keeps them from fully completing the biological processes we are asking of them ( to make fat, sticky, smelly nugs ) ... they need N P K Ca Mg S Fe etc., to do that and so to cut them off at the end or close to the end is like asking a body builder to grow with out eating...It just doesn't happen.
Have fun playing with your new toy...you can read up in the UC Davis Ag journal about leaf and petiole testing. That is where I learned how to do it.
You don't flush? Is this a new thing in organic gardening technique that I'm not aware of?
Is this where your brix test results come in handy?
T
Trinity Gold
Hey bro I'm not familiar with Hydro industry products like Sweet, Ripen, Final Phase, and ClearX..I can't really comment on their use, because I've never tried. What I can say for sure is that if you look at the ingredients they are all sugar water of some flavor...
So in each phase, early bloom , setting , blooming , and ripening...they call for a different profile of food and I like to design the soil and compost and guano teas to match. They need lots of calcium for most the cycle, then more mag, lots of nitro early with some P during stretch to expand the roots and build a nice frame for flower then K , S, Mg to give girth and dankness...Some amount of nitro pretty much the whole way a good bit during early bloom and slowly tapering down thru set and bloom till almost none during ripening.. so they're always pumping hard. So for example...early bloom i may be using lots of seabird guano tea , organic gem, molasses , kelp ...while they're setting up I'll probably pull the seabird tea, up the rate of the fish, and add in weak amounts of metanaturals 3-3-3 ...When they start blooming aggressive I will cut out the Organic Gem and start adding in metanaturals 1-5-5 and earth juice 0-3-1 and tapering off the 3-3-3 till I'm usin only the meta 1-5-5 / ej 0-3-1 as the base with humisolve , potassium silicate , thermx70 , molasses blah blah blah...
They eat off their plate in order and start with Nitro..each element helps to catalyze the next when combined in side the plant..like how Mag and Iron react to make the green color when they photosynthesize...
So in each phase, early bloom , setting , blooming , and ripening...they call for a different profile of food and I like to design the soil and compost and guano teas to match. They need lots of calcium for most the cycle, then more mag, lots of nitro early with some P during stretch to expand the roots and build a nice frame for flower then K , S, Mg to give girth and dankness...Some amount of nitro pretty much the whole way a good bit during early bloom and slowly tapering down thru set and bloom till almost none during ripening.. so they're always pumping hard. So for example...early bloom i may be using lots of seabird guano tea , organic gem, molasses , kelp ...while they're setting up I'll probably pull the seabird tea, up the rate of the fish, and add in weak amounts of metanaturals 3-3-3 ...When they start blooming aggressive I will cut out the Organic Gem and start adding in metanaturals 1-5-5 and earth juice 0-3-1 and tapering off the 3-3-3 till I'm usin only the meta 1-5-5 / ej 0-3-1 as the base with humisolve , potassium silicate , thermx70 , molasses blah blah blah...
They eat off their plate in order and start with Nitro..each element helps to catalyze the next when combined in side the plant..like how Mag and Iron react to make the green color when they photosynthesize...
I love the Metanaturals 1-5-5... gotta see if I can find it again. Bit of a PITA how it settles at the bottom of the bottle and turns into clay over the winter... have u had this problem?
I am using Biolink 3-3-3 which was updated this year with a better micronute component... if I am not mistaken... they might have just changed the packaging. If I see the Meta 3-3-3 out there I'd probably give it a shot.
Feel like I missed the boat by not putting a strong dry Bloom mix into my Black Box soil mix...
I am using Biolink 3-3-3 which was updated this year with a better micronute component... if I am not mistaken... they might have just changed the packaging. If I see the Meta 3-3-3 out there I'd probably give it a shot.
Feel like I missed the boat by not putting a strong dry Bloom mix into my Black Box soil mix...
T
Trinity Gold
If you really feel that way...get some dr earth 4-10-7 , mix it with some bagged dirt and throw it on top and scratch it in to the surface..
ghettochild
Active member
Hey buddy sorry for the late get back. Thank you very much for the compliment coming from you that means a lot. I wanted to enter her but just didn't have enough, good to know I would have had your vote anyways.
Flower away I can get you more cuts if you deem them keepers. As far as timing I'd say around Oct 15th give or a take about a week, before november for sure. She a bit long flowering if you let her, she's one of those strains that just keeps pumping out pistils even when it seems she's run her course. A pk boost will also help in taking away the airy bud quality, be gentle though. The taste/smell are so suttle that I feel harsh chem ferts only take away from this great strain. Oh and expect blue fan leaves at the end, yes blue not purple, although you're in a warmer climate so I'm looking forward to the results myself.
Anyways happy growing, and if you need anything over the next couple weeks let me know before I go back to school.
Peace and Good Karma.
Prophet*
No harsh chems over here. I do use a little Bud Candy here and there, but I am probably ready to give that up too...
that finishing time fits right in with what I was hoping for. Its the same as the Dream and supposedly the Pineapple Cough as well. Going to be a busy November.
The two Cough plants I'll be finsihing this year are bouncing right back, having been potted up from 5's in which they were languishing. Their color and perk is coming back... The NL5xHaze line, ime is very slow to bounce back from unhappy conditions, and easily stressed in the first place. I was hoping to have some time to force them and it looks like I will after all. With the force, I'm hoping that they will be down by around the same time as everything else.
that finishing time fits right in with what I was hoping for. Its the same as the Dream and supposedly the Pineapple Cough as well. Going to be a busy November.
The two Cough plants I'll be finsihing this year are bouncing right back, having been potted up from 5's in which they were languishing. Their color and perk is coming back... The NL5xHaze line, ime is very slow to bounce back from unhappy conditions, and easily stressed in the first place. I was hoping to have some time to force them and it looks like I will after all. With the force, I'm hoping that they will be down by around the same time as everything else.
T
Trinity Gold
on the plus side you wont have to keep up the tarp schedule pretty soon on that NL5/Haze either.. The Cough isn't the same as Guano Tea's NL5/Haze right? I know the person you got the Cough from had or has access to both...
