New Co2 Method !!!

[Truth]

ballastman, i agree, just opening the door doesn't do much. Propping it open while working a lot will drop my room down to 1200 from 1500.

and how much do you think may leak out of the room if it isn't sealed correctly, over a 12-24 hours period? even if you are slowly releasing it, it has to be just enough to counteract the use by the plants and the amount escaping from the room. Also, it could be a serious health hazard to have leaks in your own home. If you have sufficient airflow in your room, it can easily be blown around. co2 will rise, if there is any way for it to escape from the ceiling, it will. I'm not saying opening a door for a little while will completely clear an entire room of all the co2 you added. although, co2 can be very expensive, and it is best to do all you can to conserve it. You shouldn't be working in a room with 1500ppm of co2 for more than a little while...

"Carbon dioxide content in fresh air varies and is between 0.03% (300 ppm) to 0.06% (600 ppm), depending on location and in exhaled air approximately 4.5%. When inhaled in high concentrations (greater than 5% by volume), it is immediately dangerous to the life and health of plants, humans and other animals. The current threshold limit value (TLV) or maximum level that is considered safe for healthy adults for an 8-hour work day is 0.5% (5000 ppm). The maximum safe level for infants, children, the elderly and individuals with cardio-pulmonary health issues would be significantly less. (these are just max safe levels, not minimum, meaning at over 5000ppm it can possibly kill you, but at even less than half that, still cause side effects.)

In indoor spaces occupied by humans the carbon dioxide concentration will also reach a level higher than in pure outdoor air. Concentrations higher than 1000 ppm will cause discomfort in more than 20% of occupants, and the discomfort will increase with increasing CO2 concentration. The discomfort will be caused by various gases coming from human respiration and perspiration, and not by CO2 itself. At 2000 ppm the majority of occupants feel a significant degree of discomfort, and many will develop nausea and headache."

If you open the door the PPms will drop dramatically".Have you ever seen this in practice?.I know exactly how fast the PPMs drop with a totally open door,and it aint that damn fast lol.I'm talking about sealed rooms like mine of course,I dont know where you got the idea I vented.If your PPMs fluctuate more than 300 you arent doing your plants any good thats what I know from experience.If you're jumping from 2000 to 1500 to 1000 back up to 1500,you're just spinnin your wheels.My idea of keeping a steady PPM level is correct truth.

"If your PPMs fluctuate more than 300 you arent doing your plants any good thats what I know from experience.If you're jumping from 2000 to 1500 to 1000 back up to 1500,you're just spinnin your wheels."

THCV just stated his fluctuated at exactly 300. is he just spinning his wheels? 2000ppm is far too high for cannabis, and I would think that even 1000ppm would benefit the plants greatly, that is basically 2/3 of the maximum amount of co2 required(and nearly double to over triple the amount naturally in air), seems like it would help to me, why would you think otherwise? any co2 above what is naturally available should help. your whole argument against me is because I said the word 'dramatic'.

Who knows why they evolved being able to process 1500ppm?

Long long ago, the co2 concentrations in the atmosphere were much higher than they are now, so they took in much more co2. I am sure their tolerance may have been much higher, which they slowly lost over time. Marijuana has been around for a long time, probably longer than us.

 

[Guest]

Argument against you?I dont think so man,if you want to look at this as an argument,so be it lol,I'm just trying to help folks with co2 the way people on OG helped me.All the best literature states the most important thing about co2 enrichment is keeping a steady higher PPMs without major fluctuations,the controller I use when I set it to 1500PPM it actually will rise to around 1750 then it will start to drop.When it reaches 1450 the generator kicks in and brings it back up.Too much fluctuation and no,you arent getting the enrichment.Thats why all the many zillions of threads on yeast and making wine are basically useless.

 

[Guest]

Bree I just saw your response no prob man everyone's mistaken once in awhile

 

[Guest]

truth I just dont know where you read all this crap,but thats what it is,crap.Co2 doesnt rise my friend and wont escape through the ceiling lol,I work for 5 or 6 hours every 5th day in the flower room with the PPMs around 1700 average,I get no ill effects and neither will anyone else.Dont believe all you read man,you seem to think I am jumping on you or being argumentative,if I sound that way sorry about that.Its not my intention.I wouldnt waste my time unless I thought I could be helpful,I'm here a lot man under different names too.I just have to point out things that are incorrect because if I dont,people will take it as fact.Oscillating fans pointed upwards through the plants are a good thing supposedly because it utilizes the co2 better by blowing the falling co2 upwards through the plants where it will fall and repeat.Bree I'm not saying that a 500PPM swing would not be beneficial to plants,only that the literature states the importance of keeping a steady PPM without much rise and fall,300PPM is just a number they came up with I guess.I'm trimming my blockhead now thats been hangin about a week,man my fingers are disgusting what a strain!

 

[Guest]

Ballastman......

Ballastman......

I was sitting here thinking. I could see why large swings would not be beneficial. Now I am just going off of some of what I know and using suppisiton for the rest. The plant, I would think would have to gear up so to speak to use the extra CO2. Stomata would have to open, extra nutrient would need to be available, as well as fluids to transport it, etc. These thing could not just move up and down in quick fashion. At least that is what seems logical or practical.

Now I have to disagree about the yeast as you knew I would. I have been working with my new monitor and tweaking my system and am sustaining some very decent levels. I will be doing a grow and yeast CO2 thread in the next 10-15 days as soon as the Blueberry finish up. I will have a complete new aeroponic systems with tweaks not seen on the threads I have seen here. It should be interesting from the Yeast Co2 standpoint and the tweaks I have incorparated to the aero system. Anyone interested please PM me. I would like to have as many people as possible to have lots of constuctive feedback and conversation.

Peace

 

[Guest]

I was wondering how you are reading your co2 levels,I have the ppm3 cheapest but works great,which do you have?I used to use the syringe test which is accurate as hell if done correctly.I'm surprised yeast would even get it up to 1500PPM,much less keep it there for any length of time.Get this,at 5 this morning when lights came on,my PPMs were 2450.It is now a full 3 hours later and the PPMs have slowly dropped its now about 1800PPM.Thats 3 hours!.If a steady PPM were not necessary,any one with a sealed room would get massive enrichment for at least 4 or 5 hours,maybe the entire 12 hours!What I do is open the door about 15 minutes every morning,this gets my PPMs down to around 1750 or 1700 then when it gets to 1450 the generator willo kick in taking it to around 1800max.then it starts to fall again.

 

[THCV]

ballastman, i think that as long as you are at 1500+ ppm, fluctuations are ok. I am not sure why you open your door to lower co2. As long as the levels are not toxic (ie 5000ppm), why waste the co2, just to pay to make more later? The plant doesn't benefit from anything more than 1500, but it isn't detrimental either until it's substantially higher than 2450, I thought. I would think the plants would be maxed out with co2 and happily consume its max level of Co2 while the 2450 would eventually drop until your generator kicks in at 1450. I think the 300ppm flux is specious, the key is keeping it greater than or equal to 1500 without going toxic. Where did you get the 300 number? I mean, as long as the air is maximally enriched, say if it were fluctuating 500ppm between 1500 and 2000, I can't imagine that would be a "problem" for the plants. I would in fact bet good money that yield would be way up there, same as keeping it at 1500, but no better. I could be wrong, but i am not understanding what you are saying in biological terms, maybe you can supply references?

 

[Guest]

The 300PPM number came from my green air literature,but it is an established number I've read in other literature about co2 enrichment,google is groovy.I do know what you mean though,who came up with 300 and why would 500 be too high?I think the whole idea is to avoid fluctuation,and 300 is just a established parameter they use.I lower my room co2 because 2500 is just too high,and it doesnt drop quickly it takes hours.I can open the door until it drops to 1900,come back 10 minutes later and its at 1800 and dropping,the generator wont kick in until it gets to 1450PPM so thatys more than a 300PPM swing right there.Propane is cheap as far as I'm concerned,the cap has saved more propane over the cyclestat I used to use it really crazy.I didnt know I had a high PPM when the lights came on before I got the cap,I was already at 2500 then the generator would kick in for 8 1/2 minutes every 45 minutes,I was ODing them in the early hours for sure.Now that I have it right,I'm finishing plants in 40 friggin days its ridiculous lol

 

[THCV]

i suppose 2500 ppm is so rich that the stomata might close completely, halting growth--(it is proven that at 1500 ppm they narrow their openings and slow transpiration, but the density of CO2 in the air still makes the plant grow faster in spite of the narrow openings). So i can see why you might need to lower it until the stomata open and allow the plant to actually begin eating all that CO2. So maybe 1200 is the min for max yield, and 1800-2000 is the highest you can go before stomata more or less shut down growth.

Cervantes says the ideal range is 1200-1500. Mine is about 1250-1550. I agree, propane is cheap. Although i use enough of it now that i am considering doing the NG conversion, although that is higher profile (gas bill versus cash for LP refills).

I have never noticed the higher CO2 level at lights on, but i am rarely there when it happens. I'll keep an eye out for it.

 

[konstantgrdnr]

I figure, the start of the thread was about a new co2 method and how to hack it, to produce co2 without the high cost. I'am not knocking any of the info that has been posted or posters, I learned new info and thank everyone who has posted so far. Finding what the optimal amounts of Co2 comes only after establishing the process, by which Co2 is made. Once made, it can be measured, there is a scientific way to measure, students do it every year in school for their science project.
Imagine if everyone in this thread was just comparing data, and more effiecient methods, we would really start approaching the potential power of everybodies knowledge on this site. I would like to thank the people who have posted their findings of growing in Co2, i hope to contribute that type of knowledge in the future.

Calling and asking the pros never hurts, the worst thing they can say is no
http://www.fungi.com/

Measuring tools
http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/co2_calculator.asp

http://www.gcsescience.com/igasyringe.htm

http://www.gcsescience.com/rc16.htm

 

[Guest]

Ballastman and Konstant

Ballastman and Konstant

Ballastman--yep, I use the CAP3 also due to price and may switch to a generator for CO2 in the future. Yeast is working fine for me now though.

Konstant--Thanks for the link to the CO2 calculator...been doing it by hand a long time.

Am going to add a pic with the monitor just because this subject is a little dry although very important, informative, and educational. Needs a little green though. Had to color correct due to HPS orange.

Peace

 

[Guest]

Bree you spent 5 bills on a cap and you using yeast to enrich?I've just never seen that before most people that use yeast wouldnt know what a cap is haha.Hey if it works,yeast is cheap

 

[Guest]

Ballastman..... yeast is the same for me as not going to the grow store often....

Ballastman..... yeast is the same for me as not going to the grow store often....

I just don't like the exposure. Yeah, in a big city no one would notice or care but here people would, especially LEO. I have just expanded the practice as my skills have increased over the years. I believe there are other advantages other than decreasing security exposure. (no one thinks anything when I buy sugar and yeast at Sam's)
The other rationales are:
-Because the container constantly puts out CO2 there is no complicated timing issues like I have heard some use. Squirt--stop intake of air--temps rise--purge air--squirt again. Repeat.

-My CO2 is constantly mixed with the intake air and temps stay within 5 degrees the whole time the light is on. 84f-89f. Fresh air laced with CO2 circulating in the plants at all times.

-RH is easily maintained in all seasons by adjusting humidifier or air flow.

I put heating pads under the tank and they are on timers. 1.5hrs prior to lights on they start kicking the heat up with a resultant increase in yeast activity. About 1.5 hrs before darkness start kicking the heat down and only kick on 15min once in awhile during dark period to keep yeast culture active, lengthen tank life, and maximize as much as possible the yeast production. I am currently working on a way to capture the "dark" CO2 and release during the light and am starting to have success.

Not necessarily saying it is better, just saying why I don't go the bottle route or the burner route. It is cheap too. I have a small room and am running 75w/ft2. I really would not want to go with anything temp causing or would have went that direction long ago but would have to trade off light. Already have a sealed vented hood.

I know the cost of the monitor seems strange but the reason for yeast is not cost. Truly if put cost all together it would be cheaper to buy products from a dealer but am addicted to the craft. LOVE THIS SHIT. Have not been able to sample my products in almost a year and have almost a year left before I can. I really am addicted to the craft. Have donated my products during the dry period to a couple of very close friends. Can't wait for this year to be over but my own fault.

Peace

 

[Guest]

...........

 

[konstantgrdnr]

Well thinking over your situation, i wonder if you can boost your efficiences to justify your cost, and do some pretty cool shit at the same time, came across this article and i wonder if you used a highly efficient generator you might be able to recover some of that potential energy and power sme ighs via the generator, just distill the remaining waste into alocohol, fuck it, as long as your making your smoke might as well brew a tall boy also, or you can use it for fuel don't know if it's possible but i found this.

Making Alcohol Fuel

by Lynn Ellen Doxon

Our bodies quickly make energy out of alcohol. Our engines can do the same thing. Of course, our engines will not go blind or die because of small amounts of contaminants in the batch, so we don’t need to be quite as careful as the big distilleries that make drinking alcohol.

The first fuel used in the internal combustion engine was alcohol. Shortly after the internal combustion engine was invented petroleum distillation was discovered. At that time gasoline was much cheaper to produce than alcohol, there was little concern over air pollution and oil supplies were thought to be inexhaustible. Only a few foresighted people realized the disadvantage of using a fuel that had to be searched for and mined from underground. Henry Ford was one of these. He fought long and hard for the use of alcohol as fuel.

OVERVIEW OF ALCOHOL PRODUCTION

Making alcohol is not far removed from chores farmers are used to. What we are doing is growing a yeast crop for the alcohol it produces. Grain is ground to make the starches more available. Enzymes are then added to break the starch down to sugars. These are the same types of enzymes that are found in saliva. The sugar is then fed to yeast plants that digest the sugar and water and produce alcohol and carbon dioxide (along with more little yeast organisms.) The yeast finally starves to death or kills itself off by overpopulation and too much alcohol. We then remove the liquid, which is alcohol and water, and distill it. The solids - the protein that was in the grain and the dead yeast organisms - are fed to animals as a protein supplement.

Substrates

The substrate is the material from which the alcohol is made. If you were just starting to farm, without any land or equipment, you would go out and look for land that would grow the crops you were interested in, and that you could afford. Rich, black bottom-land will grow more than rocky, yellow hillsides. Carbohydrates are what make an alcohol crop. Sugar and starch are carbohydrates. Crops with more carbohydrates will produce more alcohol per pound. Table I-1 gives the amount of alcohol that can be produced from several different crops.

If you are buying the substrate, calculate the cost of the alcohol by dividing the cost per unit by the number of gallons that unit will produce. For example, lets say you want to produce alcohol from pure cane sugar and you can get that sugar at $12 per 100 pounds. You can make 6.92 gallons of alcohol from that sugar so the cost would be $1.63 per gallon of alcohol. If you were buying wheat at $4.50 a bushel and could make 2.56 gallons of alcohol from that wheat the substrate cost of the gallon of alcohol would be $1.75.

If you are growing the crop yourself, the more carbohydrates per acre, the more alcohol per acre would result. If a crop will produce many gallons of alcohol per bushel, but will only produce a few bushels per acre, or if it has a very high production cost, it might be better to choose another substrate. To figure the amount of alcohol per acre multiply the average production per acre by the amount of alcohol that crop can produce. (Make sure the units are the same.) In order to figure the cost of the substrate for each gallon of alcohol divide the cost of production per acre by the number of gallons that can be produced from the substrate grown on that acre. For example, if you can grow 65 bushels per acre of wheat, which will produce 2.56 gallons of alcohol per bushel, the yield will be 166.4 gallons per acre. At a production cost of $250 per acre the substrate will cost $1.50 per gallon.

There are several things to consider when deciding what substrate to use. In addition to expense, you should consider how dependable the crop is in your area, whether the equipment is available to plant, care for and harvest the crop, whether you can store it until you are ready to use it and whether you have the equipment to prepare it. Will you use the culls from your potato or fruit crops? Will you plant what would once have been your set-aside acres into grain? Will you use different crops at different times of the year? Each operation is different and you must decide for yourself what is best.

There is a residue left over after the alcohol is made that is two to four times as rich in protein as the material going in. Certain other nutrients are concentrated also. With some substrates this is a high quality, high protein animal food. With others, it is not usable. Could you formulate a supplement for your animals that would provide an amino acid balance?

Just as there is a need for water to make the nutrients in the soil available for plants, water must be available to dissolve the carbohydrates in the substrate you use. The concentration of carbohydrates in the liquid should be between 10% and 25%. The more water you add, the more complete the fermentation which results. The less water, the more concentrated the alcohol in the brew. The yeast will die when the concentration of the alcohol gets to be around 12%, so do not increase the sugar concentration above 25%.

The pieces of the substrate must be small enough that the enzymes and yeast can get to the carbohydrates. Grain should be ground to the consistency of coarse cornmeal. Other substrates should be ground, mashed or shredded as appropriate to the substrate. Save all the juices. Sugar is water-soluble, and a lot of it can run off with the juice of some crops. One-half of the water should be added to substrates containing starch, and they should be heated to soften the starch. If you bring it to a boil for a short period of time, you will also kill unwanted bacteria and other microscopic weeds that would disrupt the production of alcohol.

COMMERCIAL AVERAGE YIELD OF 200 PROOF ALCOHOL

Material Unit Lbs./Unit % Fermentable Gal./Unit
Wheat Bushel 60 58.6 2.56
Corn or Milo Bushel 56 57.8 2.34
Rye Bushel 56 54.0 2.19
Buckwheat Bushel 48 57.2 1.99
Barley Bushel 48 54.3 1.89
Oats Bushel 32 43.6 1.01
Sugar beets Ton 2000 16.0 22.00
Sugar cane Ton 2000 11.0 15.18
Sweet potatoes Bushel 55 23.3 .93
Potatoes Bushel 60 15.6 .68
Jerusalem Artichokes Bushel 60 15.2 .59
Pure sugar Bag 100 100.0 6.92
Corn sugar Bag 100 100.0 6.00


Enzymes

Yeast makes alcohol from sugar. Starches are long chains of sugar, and cellulose is a mass of starches cemented together. Starches can be broken down using enzymes. Enzymes make things happen that would not ordinarily happen. Enzymes do not get used up in the reaction they make happen, although there are many things that will inactivate them. A given enzyme will do only one thing. It is like a key that will fit only one lock. They act best at a certain temperature and pH.

Enzymes found in saliva, sprouted grain and certain bacteria break the bonds that hold sugar together in starch chains. These enzymes are called amylacea. There are two different kinds of bonds between sugars in starch chains. To break these bonds, it takes two different amylacea. They are glucoamylase and alpha-amylase. The difference between the two is like the difference between right and left-hand scissors. They approach from different directions and therefore are able to cut slightly different bonds.

There are enzymes called cellulases that break the sugars in cellulose apart. These are produced by bacteria in the first stomach of ruminants and are very expensive to buy at this time. It would take about 30 to 50 cents worth of commercially available cellulase to produce a gallon of alcohol from cellulose-based materials

We use Diazyme, a glucoamylase and Taka-therm, an alpha-amylase. Both are brand names from Miles Laboratory. Taka-therm is most active at a pH range of 5.5 to 7.0, or in slightly acid to neutral conditions. This can be measured with pH paper available at most drug stores. It will retain its ability to act in a pH range of 5.0 to 11.0. It works best at temperatures below 194E F. If calcium ions are present in the water, it will act at higher temperatures, although higher temperatures for long periods of time still tend to inactivate the enzyme. It should be stored at low temperatures (40° F).

Diazyme works best at a pH of 3.8 to 4.2 and at 140°F. It will work in a pH range of 3.5 to 5.0. Temperatures above 176°F. will inactivate this enzyme.

When grain has been ground, mixed with cool water and heated you should add one ounce of Taka-therm per bushel. The grain should be mixed with cool water at first to prevent balling but once it is moistened you may add water from some other step in the distillation process. This will save on energy for heating. Do not add more than half the total water for the process. The Take-therm can be added any time after the heating process has begun. The heat causes the starch to leave the grain and turn the mash to gel. The Taka-therm liquefies this gel. As you heat, agitate the mixture so it will not scorch the grain and the heat will transfer faster.

After the Taka-therm has had at least half an hour to work, mix cooler water with the mash until it is about 140E F. If you add all the water at this time and it is still not cool enough just let it set until it is. Again, test the pH and adjust it to between 3.5 and 5.0. To lower the pH add any acid. Battery acid or muriatic acid is probably the most available. To raise pH add lime. It is unlikely that you will need to raise the pH before adding the Diazyme if you are careful as you add the acid. Add ½ to 2 ounces of Diazyme per bushel and let it work at least half an hour. If you have not added all the water do that when the Diazyme has had a chance to work. Let the mixture cool to 90°F.

If the enzymes are unavailable to you, making malt is probably the safest, easiest way to go, but even that takes time and attention. Malt is simply sprouting grain. Barley works best for malt, (produces more enzyme) although wheat is good too, and any grain will produce some enzyme. Malt should consist of 10 to 20% of the grain in the mash.

The first step in making malt is to soak the grain. Pour fresh water over the grain until the water is six inches above the surface of the grain. If this is done during the summer or in a warm room the water should be changed every four to six hours so the grain does not start to spoil or ferment. It has soaked long enough when the grain can be crushed and leave no hard starch.

Next it should be germinated. Germination takes place with the fewest problems if it is in a room about 55°F. The soaked grain should be piled up to two feet deep. Within 12 to 24 hours the grain will begin to produce heat. This means it is beginning to grow. When the center of the pile gets warm and wet, it should be turned. This turning should take place every six to eight hours after the heating has started. As the grain sprouts, it will have to be turned more and more often to keep the center of the pile around 65°F. The piles should also be spread out to become thinner and thinner until they are only a few inches deep.

Small rootlets will form first. The sprouting should be stopped when these rootlets are about 2/3 the length of the grain. If leaflets are allowed to form, they will use up a lot of starch that could otherwise be turned into alcohol.

It is very important that once the enzymes are formed the sprouting process be stopped quickly. Otherwise you will have a putrid mess. To stop the process it should be used immediately, or dried with heat. Start the drying process at around 95°F, then gradually warm it up to 160°F. When it is nearly dry and feels dry to the touch, you may raise the temperature higher to dry the malt completely. It can get to 212°F at this point because the enzyme can only be inactivated at boiling temperatures if there is water present.

If you were making beer for drinking, you would then separate the dried rootlets, which are brittle and easily winnowed out. Since you don’t care how the alcohol tastes, you can grind everything you have dried and mix it with your starchy substrate. You now have beta-amylase, which will turn your starch to maltose, which the yeast can turn to glucose for use in making alcohol. Do not heat the malted mixture above 170°F after water is added or you will inactivate the enzyme.

Fermentation

Brewer’s yeasts are in the air all around us. Any natural fermentation is caused by one variety of yeast or another. There are a variety of other living things - fungi, bacteria, viruses - floating around in the air, too. High temperatures kill any living thing. Therefore we have killed any natural yeast and other living organisms in the mash when we cooked it. We must add yeast if we are to get any fermentation action.

Yeast companies have developed strains of yeast that ferment sugars swiftly and efficiently. Therefore we can get the desired results more quickly than if we try to capture and breed our own. The product called Brewer’s Yeast has materials added to retard the growth of other organisms in our brew as it makes alcohol.

Yeast will die at temperatures above 115°F. Be sure you do not put the yeast in while the mixture is too hot. They are most active near 90°F. They are living things and produce heat by the action of living. The fermentation vat will stay warm if it is insulated and inside a building but care must be taken to prevent it from overheating on hot summer days. Dissolve the yeast in a small amount of water between 90°F. and 115°F. and mix it with your mash. You should use two ounces of yeast per bushel of grain.

Yeast has two biological pathways. If the yeast has oxygen it will reproduce and make large quantities of carbon dioxide. If it does not have oxygen, it will produce alcohol and smaller quantities of carbon dioxide. Therefore, you should exclude oxygen from the fermentation vat. You must allow carbon dioxide to get out. We achieve this by covering our fermentation vats with plastic, held in place with a rubber band cut from an inner-tube.

The yeast is working as long as there is grain on top of the liquid and small bubbles coming up. Then the grain falls to the bottom. After two to four days, the batch is ready to distill.

If there is no grain at the top and large bubbles are coming up from the bottom, you probably have a vinegar producing organism in your brew. This is the most common problem with alcohol crops. The vinegar producing organisms live on alcohol - the longer they are there the less alcohol you have in your brew. When you notice them, either distill or discard the batch immediately and clean out the fermentation vat with boiling water. There will not be as much alcohol as usual in the brew but if the batch is one or two days old, and the vinegar hasn’t been there long, it would be worth distilling.

Distillation

Distillation is the separation of two compounds using heat. By heating the liquid to the point where it boils, then cooling it slowly, the water re-condenses first and we can then condense and collect the alcohol. There are a variety of stills available. For plans on building one, see The Alcohol Fuel Handbook (ordering information below.)

USES OF ALCOHOL

Once you have the alcohol, certain modifications need to be made in engines designed to burn gasoline in order to accommodate alcohol fuel. These changes are due to the facts that alcohol is thicker than gasoline, that it burns more completely, and that it burns cooler. There are engines designed to run exclusively on alcohol. These are, or have been, made by American-based companies but are not available for sale within the United States.

Alcohol can be used in any heater or furnace that burns fuel oil without any modifications. The furnace can then be vented directly into the house, allowing you to use all the heat produced by the fuel rather than sending over half of it up the chimney. You will need to provide an oxygen intake from outside if your furnace does not have one. You can also burn alcohol as low as 130 proof. The burning alcohol will evaporate the water, and the air coming out of the stove or furnace will be warm and moist, a very pleasant humidifier.

USES OF DISTILLERS GRAIN

In addition to producing alcohol, you will be producing a high protein feed product and excess heat. The feed product is almost equal to soybean meal as a protein supplement for animals. It is not a complete ration, and must be mixed with other feedstuffs. The yeast in the product, and the fact that it bypasses the rumen, increases the efficiency of utilization by ruminants. Depending on what is mixed with the feed product, it can be fed to cattle, sheep, goats, horses, swine, chickens, dogs or fish with excellent results. It can even be added to bread, cereal or baked goods for people.



(Lynn Ellen Doxon is the Author of The Alcohol Fuel Handbook, which gives more complete information on alcohol fuel production. It is available from Infinity Publishing at www.buybooksontheweb.com.)

 

[Guest]

Yep, Ballastman......

Yep, Ballastman......

Exactly my situation. Hell too old for the kind of crap I got into but has been haunting me. On the downside now...... Must be a good boy...

Peace

 

[Guest]

thanks

 

[Guest]

Glad to hear it Ballastman.......

Glad to hear it Ballastman.......

My Krytonite is Alcohol. Never know what is in the bottle. Could be a great time or could be path of destruction and I don't mean that lightly. Add ETOH and I become dangerous.

Have you ever heard anyone say, "man, I got so stoned last night I beat the shit out of this or that guy", nope! Alcohol is bad for me... always has been.

Love my greens. Feeds the peaceful, spiritual side of this animal. The growing gives me a great outlet for the obsessive-compulsive nature. Always something to tweak or improve upon. Should have been a farmer. Seriously though, I could no more stop growing than breathing. Will be glad when I get to sample again. Miss the communion so to speak.

Am really, and genuinely glad for you though man. Monkeys are great at the zoo but hard to carry on your back all the time.

Peace

 

[Guest]

Ai jeeze

 

[growing]

cheap c02

cheap c02

Don't forget the ole' high times mag that showed by making a drip solution with pure white vinegar and baking soda works fine for producing c02. Just have the vinegar drip into the baking soda causing the reaction. This can be done for less than 20.00.