Need help building a sealed room for Co2 use

[GOT_BUD?]

I think that kind of stratification is only measurable on a much larger scale. Much like the Coriolis effect has no measurable effect on a toilet boil.

It's true that co2 is heavier than air, but the atmospheric pressure differentials between the top and bottom of your room aren't large enough to create any measurable effect. At least, that's my understanding of it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

https://www.reddit.com/r/askscience...2_is_heavier_than_air_why_doesnt_it_all_sink/.

I'm working off of the knowledge of high school chemistry from 31 years ago, so you are most likely correct.

 

[Itsmychoice]

For CO2 I would just loop your line around the canopy the best way it works for your situation. I have found that putting the valve on a timer instead of a sniffer saves a lot of co2 and lets you reduce it easier in late flower. Just use one of the co2 calculators to choose how long it takes to fill the room to the level you want, around 30-60 secs depending on the regulator setting and make it kick on every 30-60 mins or so 2 hours or so after your lights come on. The other option is a controller but I have seen no difference other than co2 usage. I run 8 sealed rooms all sealed with co2, half on controllers half on timers. The advantage with co2 comes with complete control of temp and humidity and it helps with smell.

 

[pacoclandestino]

People put too much thought into how they are going to disperse their co2.......

thnks mate, I do have a fan for each one of the lamps(once i start the build next week will start showing pics)
Good to know your experience since i have never ran a grow with CO2 your help an experience is apreciated

I have found that putting the valve on a timer instead of a sniffer saves a lot of co2 and lets you reduce it easier in late flower. Just use one of the co2 calculators to choose how long it takes to fill the room to the level you want, around 30-60 secs depending on the regulator setting and make it kick on every 30-60 mins or so 2 hours or so after your lights come on......

Thanks for this info mate!!!I bought a controller that comes with a sniffer. so I will try to see if i can dial my room with it, but it is good the info you are giving me regarding doing it on a timer, just in case

 

[Itsmychoice]

Really that’s best case scenario. Use the controller and pay attention to how often and how long it comes on in your particular set up. Be in there when the lights come on with a stopwatch. Then if it seems to be using too much set it up on a timer.

 

[ExoticsRus]

Build a inner grow room + small lung room

Plus other benefit of a “lungroom” is you can have your water Rez from the heat if you want, all your nutes and bennies and dry amendments without any expire and better temps .

Make the grow room sealed enough where the room once pressured it , put a carbon filter to let the air go out to the lung room

I put my a/c input/and exhaust so I never lose my co2 in my warehouse as well . if you want a truely sealed room and a good grow room, don’t fuck around with residential grade indoor doors ( they will warp to negative pressure and it will just be season replacements , get outdoor doors, just as easy to get and install )


If lung room gets above range you don’t want , what I did was added a hepa filter + 25ft duct than in-line fan + temperature controller for temps (w/e above 70f turns on in-line 4 )

 

[pacoclandestino]

Build a inner grow room + small lung room
............

Hi mate thanks for droping by!!
I wish I had the space for that kind of set up...this is a spare room in my house,I live in an attic and the room messure is width 8,5´x lenght 12,5´ x height 9,2´

If lung room gets above range you don’t want , what I did was added a hepa filter + 25ft duct than in-line fan + temperature controller for temps (w/e above 70f turns on in-line 4 ) .....

Can you elaborate on this sugestion?



I,ve been growing in this room for a few years, am just transforming it into a CO2 set up, this mean that I do have in the room everything needed to mantain a good temp and RH, also have a very decent dehum,fans etc

 

[pacoclandestino]

goodies arriving

goodies arriving

Yep, Controller, Sensor and the Titan controls tubing have just arrived.

I ended up gowing with the Techgrow T2 controller and the S4 sensor after looking at many options, this one came at an excellent price and is a CO2+ temp and Hum controller.

I have my doubts about how seting up the Titancontrols rain system tubing.

You are supossed to mark a 4 foot diameter circle in the ceiling from the center of your room and tie the tube to it....but my guess is that depends on the room size? I was thinking in maybe build one of this circles(smaller version-2 foot diameter) above each lamp, will see in a couple of days as i will be setting it up then.


Until then see you guys!!!

 

[Asslover]

I have found that putting the valve on a timer instead of a sniffer saves a lot of co2 and lets you reduce it easier in late flower. Just use one of the co2 calculators to choose how long it takes to fill the room to the level you want, around 30-60 secs depending on the regulator setting and make it kick on every 30-60 mins or so 2 hours or so after your lights come on.

A perfect example of how NOT to do things...

 

[Itsmychoice]

A perfect example of how NOT to do things...

I would like to hear your experience with supplemental co2 and what it is about my advice that seems so wrong to you.

1000ppm CO2 is only a factor if temp, humidity, light intensity, and nutrients are near perfect. Temp=86, Humidity=70-75 until late flower. Lowering CO2 to 400ppm, temps down in the 70s and humidity in the 50s the last couple weeks will improve quality in several ways. The main advantage of running supplemental CO2 is better environmental control because the room is sealed, the improvements will be as much related to that control as they will be to the ppms of CO2. A rarely calibrated CO2 meter might be accurate but I wouldn’t bet on it for too long. Even using a meter it might be worth putting it on a timer so that it’s first release is an hour or two after lights turn on and turn it off an hour before lights go out. The thing to do might be to run the meter with a camera on it to time when, how often and how long it comes on in a day since just being in the room breathing changes things considerably.

 

[pacoclandestino]

almost there!!

almost there!!

Regulator with solenoid valve just arrived

I guess I will collect the tank on the week end ans start the build

 

[Bobby Boucher]

I'd also agree that controllers were the way to go, and not timers, if you have more than one co2 meter, or have a friend who owns one that you can cross check against.

If you can't cross check your co2 meter, you'll never know if its gone out of calibration. At least with a timer, you can check against known co2 output values.

Worst care scenario, without a 2nd unit, how would you calibrate your unit to make sure it was turning on and off in a predictable manner? With.. a timer?

My $1000 cap unit never functioned properly. Wasn't eligible for a return or refund. Still sour about it, some 6 years later.

 

[moses wellfleet]

I'd also agree that controllers were the way to go, and not timers, if you have more than one co2 meter, or have a friend who owns one that you can cross check against.

If you can't cross check your co2 meter, you'll never know if its gone out of calibration. At least with a timer, you can check against known co2 output values.

Worst care scenario, without a 2nd unit, how would you calibrate your unit to make sure it was turning on and off in a predictable manner? With.. a timer?

My $1000 cap unit never functioned properly. Wasn't eligible for a return or refund. Still sour about it, some 6 years later.

Wanna calibrate your monitor? Take it outside into fresh air. If it reads +- 400ppm you are good to go!

 

[Bobby Boucher]

Tried it. My c.a.p was garbage from the get go. C.A.P. products always were, so my complaints about how "that didn't work" can be ignored.

Mine would just take an obscene amount of time for the reading to go up or down and the readings were always erroneous.

Co2 meters only cost a fraction of what a co2 controller does. I'd say they are still a wise investment. Co2 toxicity, heat buildup, oxygen depletion, solenoid failure, basically anything that can go wrong with a tank or a burner could kill your plants in a matter of hours. Could also kill you..

Just sayin. Might be good to verify a low point and a high point. Should be easy enough to tell if your controller is total garbage from the get go, though, based on several common sense factors.

I'm a dangerous idiot, so I have to over think these kinda of things til I'm blue in the face. Too many close calls caused by being cheap or optimistic for this cowboy..

 

[moses wellfleet]

I think I looked at CAP at the time, glad I didn’t choose it then. Yes it can potentially be a very deadly situation if your equipment fails and dumps the whole tank in a unventilated space.

 

[pacoclandestino]

my first choice was a Trolmaster HydroX system, but the price difference was considerable, those controllers are the best right now.


I am very tempted in taking an Arduino course,now there is all sorts of sensors and stuff to make your own systems, specially now thatb everything is controlled digitally

 

[pacoclandestino]

sensor placement

sensor placement

I dont know why I had in my head the sensor was supossed to go just underneath the cannopy and i see in my controller user manual it says not to put under direct sunlight or direct airflow of fans


The direct airflow part is the one that cant be hard in my room, it is small (2,57 wide X 3,80 long X 2,80 height Meters), between A/C , the air the dehum produces, the fans right in front of the cannopy for co2 dispersion I have almost no space in the room with some kind of air movement


The only clear place i see ir either right beside the entrance door (and that will be at 1,20 meters distance from a fan) and also there will be air coming into the room when going in and out, or while refilling my tanks or emptying them for clean up etc


The other one will be right behind the door this seems to be that gets less airflow from anything, but while feeding or filing/emptying tanks it will be verty close to the door and there will be air coming from the outside, this will happen normally every 5 days


Also the concept of direct airflow can variate it can be anything to 1 meter? 2 meters?

 

[pacoclandestino]

CO2 splitter

CO2 splitter

I used before a CO2 splitter to divide the CO2 between a few Beer kegs at parties, this gave me the idea to use this divider

in the set up :

I had to change the valves that were 5/16 BARB for new ones in brass at 3/16 BARB, now they fit perfect in the Titan rain system tubing


The idea is to build 4 of this circles each one on top of each lamp, hung into the structure I use, close to the ceiling

So the divider will be after the regulator and before the circle

 

[PurplePotion]

My Co2 line terminates with an open end and is only released at the end of the tube which is placed in the middle of the room towards the ceiling. Never had an issue; Co2 seems to disperse fairly evenly. IMO the regular circulation that your room should have is more than enough to keep it mixed.

Has anyone here seen a real world difference in Co2 application methods?

 

[pacoclandestino]

Has anyone here seen a real world difference in Co2 application methods?

great question,thanks!


As it is am doubting in doing this system with the spitter and the 4 circles ,or,just build one of those circles in the middle of the room

 

[moses wellfleet]

Your room should feel like a hot tropical wind already, if it doesn’t then you need to increase airflow regardless of co2.

Co2 stratifying and collecting all over the floor belongs in George Cervantes grow bible!

If co2 is emitted too rapidly by the solenoid it can be very cold and even ice up. Even then I don’t think it will stay cold long enough to stratify!